Maybe just close the whole forum for new discussions because someone told me there have already been threads about everything
No offense, but when that's your opinion there's a simple solution for you.
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Maybe just close the whole forum for new discussions because someone told me there have already been threads about everything
Maybe just close the whole forum for new discussions because someone told me there have already been threads about everything
And your technical reasoning is?
The ignore function HAS been quite useful in clearing up that behavior from my feedNo offense, but when that's your opinion there's a simple solution for you.
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If we don't know forsure, it is also likely today's 0w20s are better than the ones of the past.SAE grades have changed multiple times since then. Today's 20-grades are not the same. That was before HT/HS but it likely was around 3.0.
Explain to the best of your ability the difference between 0w20 and 5w30. Leave out feelings and emotion. Hard facts please. I'm listening.I don’t think the 0-20 is BAD but in some cases thicker could be better. However theres so many UOAs showing thinned oil and no concerning wear, and lots of folks putting on trouble free miles it makes me wonder what are you actually gaining with 5w-30. Maybe the engine and oil people have gotten to the point where normal cars just don’t NEED the thicker oil to have an acceptable service life, AND they can improve MPG with 0w-20. I don't think its right that the manual in the US only shows 0w-20 and the same cars elsewhere give more options, but I also don't think that makes 0w-20 inherently bad, depends where you live and how you drive.
I’m over 28,000 posts away from being qualifiedExplain to the best of your ability the difference between 0w20 and 5w30. Leave out feelings and emotion. Hard facts please. I'm listening.
Until then, stick with your manual. Good luck.I’m over 28,000 posts away from being qualified
I’m over 28,000 posts away from being qualified
It’s a CVT, thanksUntil then, stick with your manual. Good luck.
Your engine?It’s a CVT, thanks
Until then, stick with your manual. Good luck.
I read up on oil years ago and my general take away was that the upper number for when the engine was hot should be at least 30 if not 40 and the cold number was always too high so go as low as possible, certainly use 0 instead of 5 or 10. In general it may not make a huge difference but until now I’ve always been asking for 0-30 or 0-40. But today I was told at three different oil change shops that I had to use 0-20 because that was all they could select or that was their shop rule. I know the auto mfg’s have asked for thinner oil to help get their mpg up. But IMHO i suspect that is at the expense of some engine life. I'd rather lose .5 mpg and have even a few more months of engine life. Even if the cost comes out in favor of using the thinner oil, time and effort or big factors for me.
I know some people on this forum, at least in years past, do very detailed even scientific study of such things as how much running a thinner oil hurts engine life. And I know there will be some people on both sides of the issue, there always are. But I'd still like to get a few comments on what people think of being forced to stay on 0-20. Should i find a different shop to get the oil I think is better or just accept the trend?
Also no one seems to know that tolerances and clearances are not the same thing.TL;DR - tolerances aren’t as different or “tighter” as is often claimed.
Also a good point, lol.Also no one seems to know that tolerances and clearances are not the same thing.![]()
My 2013 Ford Focus bought new that year has run 5W20 over it's entire 130K+ miles. Most of it Motorcraft syn blend. My son autocrosses it now. Runs perfectly. 20 grade oils are fine. Could certainly step up to a 30 as well for a bit more protection if it starts seeing HPDE use. This discussion is 100% emotional based on tribology that supports thick provides more protection and of course everyone wants more regardless if it's needed or not.My 2018 Jeep has been run pretty hard for 93k miles on 0w20. No issues. Keep checking back and I'll let you know how she's doing. I plan to go the distance with it. My Gladiator also runs 0w20. It is a baby, in the mid 40k range now. I sold a 2008 Jeep with 193k that was mostly on 5w20 with several runs of 0w20 in the end. It ran like new when I sold it last winter. Each of those three Jeeps has done its fair share of towing and two of the three have done extensive off-roading in very hot conditions, crawling at 1-2mph with the air conditioning on at full blast. No issues.
I don't think a well maintained engine that specifies 0w20 will have any trouble lasting a long, long time.
I almost forgot...I had a 2001 Ford F150 5.4 that ran nothing but 5w20 and it was worked hard. I sold it to a buddy who still has it and it recently pushed past 200k and is running strong. It will rust out before that engine quits.
Partially… I think those that are un- or underinformed may think they always need to go thicker.This discussion is 100% emotional based on tribology that supports thick provides more protection and of course everyone wants more regardless if it's needed or not.
But what if someone like myself doesn’t want “good enough” protection on an engine I hope to run over 250k miles? Isn’t that the whole point of threads like this? We don’t want to settle for good enough, if we did we would use what the oil cap and manual says, as surely it’s recommended oil is “good enough”…. What if we want exceptional?“if he tells you a 20 grade is good enough based on his huge experience base, you can rest easy that your engine will be fine….”
Your truck would also do this on the recommended Motorcraft oil as well (20 right?)30k miles and 2 OCIs later, my truck runs the same as it did when I got it on Christmas Eve of 2020.