I imagine there would be more metal-on-metal contact, and that would cause the antiwear additives to deplete faster.
Is stop-and-go bad for oil?
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If it is stop and go for short distances, fuel dilution hits the oil harder than highway miles and that would be my biggest concern. I am not sure how stop and go would cause more metal to metal contact?
Bad for oil? Probably not that bad. High heat towing, moisture, cold and short trips, etc is often cited as being harder on it.
Bad for the car? That's a given; just the constant shifting, braking, and changing RPM's tend to put more wear on a motor per mile then a light highway cruise.
Bad for the car? That's a given; just the constant shifting, braking, and changing RPM's tend to put more wear on a motor per mile then a light highway cruise.
So in this instance, what do you guys do for OCIs?
My mother's 2006 Freestar consists of daily trips to and from work, total drive is 5 miles per day.
The current OCI just hit 3750 miles on PYB 5W20. I was thinking that oil is pretty beaten up especially with it being so cold out. She usually warms it up for 10 minutes and drives it for 5 to get to work.
My mother's 2006 Freestar consists of daily trips to and from work, total drive is 5 miles per day.
The current OCI just hit 3750 miles on PYB 5W20. I was thinking that oil is pretty beaten up especially with it being so cold out. She usually warms it up for 10 minutes and drives it for 5 to get to work.
You can never go wrong changing it according to the severe service schedule in your manufacturer's manual. Conditions like that I wouldn't want to extend the OCI, would be worth trying to get a longer drive in now-and-again to burn off any condensation.
Originally Posted By: sir1900
So in this instance, what do you guys do for OCIs?
My mother's 2006 Freestar consists of daily trips to and from work, total drive is 5 miles per day.
The current OCI just hit 3750 miles on PYB 5W20. I was thinking that oil is pretty beaten up especially with it being so cold out. She usually warms it up for 10 minutes and drives it for 5 to get to work.
A block/ oilpan heater would be nice in the winter, I'm not sure I would have the patience to warm up for 10 min before a 5 min trip.
So in this instance, what do you guys do for OCIs?
My mother's 2006 Freestar consists of daily trips to and from work, total drive is 5 miles per day.
The current OCI just hit 3750 miles on PYB 5W20. I was thinking that oil is pretty beaten up especially with it being so cold out. She usually warms it up for 10 minutes and drives it for 5 to get to work.
A block/ oilpan heater would be nice in the winter, I'm not sure I would have the patience to warm up for 10 min before a 5 min trip.
Originally Posted By: expat
Originally Posted By: sir1900
So in this instance, what do you guys do for OCIs?
My mother's 2006 Freestar consists of daily trips to and from work, total drive is 5 miles per day.
The current OCI just hit 3750 miles on PYB 5W20. I was thinking that oil is pretty beaten up especially with it being so cold out. She usually warms it up for 10 minutes and drives it for 5 to get to work.
A block/ oilpan heater would be nice in the winter, I'm not sure I would have the patience to warm up for 10 min before a 5 min trip.
She uses a block heater cord and also has a remote start. The van probably idles more than it is driven.
Originally Posted By: sir1900
So in this instance, what do you guys do for OCIs?
My mother's 2006 Freestar consists of daily trips to and from work, total drive is 5 miles per day.
The current OCI just hit 3750 miles on PYB 5W20. I was thinking that oil is pretty beaten up especially with it being so cold out. She usually warms it up for 10 minutes and drives it for 5 to get to work.
A block/ oilpan heater would be nice in the winter, I'm not sure I would have the patience to warm up for 10 min before a 5 min trip.
She uses a block heater cord and also has a remote start. The van probably idles more than it is driven.
I would change it based on time. Every 6 months would do the trick
Or switch to syn and go 1 year
Or switch to syn and go 1 year
Originally Posted By: RiceCake
You can never go wrong changing it according to the severe service schedule in your manufacturer's manual. Conditions like that I wouldn't want to extend the OCI, would be worth trying to get a longer drive in now-and-again to burn off any condensation.
That's what I did the other day. Took it on the Ring Road and drove the whole thing before returning it to her. I don't think the van has seen ANY freeway driving since the summer.
This weekend is suppose to warm up nicely. I think I will change the oil.
You can never go wrong changing it according to the severe service schedule in your manufacturer's manual. Conditions like that I wouldn't want to extend the OCI, would be worth trying to get a longer drive in now-and-again to burn off any condensation.
That's what I did the other day. Took it on the Ring Road and drove the whole thing before returning it to her. I don't think the van has seen ANY freeway driving since the summer.
This weekend is suppose to warm up nicely. I think I will change the oil.
Originally Posted By: sir1900
This weekend is suppose to warm up nicely. I think I will change the oil.
Yeah, single digit negatives, the equivalent of summer after the last week or so. I wasn't aware you were from around here until I noticed your location on your profile. Changing the oil according to the severe OCI schedule is probably spot on for the sort of conditions you've explained. Short trips in cold will mean your biggest foe is moisture in your oil and that nice milky white build-up under your oil cap from it.
This weekend is suppose to warm up nicely. I think I will change the oil.
Yeah, single digit negatives, the equivalent of summer after the last week or so. I wasn't aware you were from around here until I noticed your location on your profile. Changing the oil according to the severe OCI schedule is probably spot on for the sort of conditions you've explained. Short trips in cold will mean your biggest foe is moisture in your oil and that nice milky white build-up under your oil cap from it.
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
I am not sure how stop and go would cause more metal to metal contact?
Frequent revs from 1000 to 4000 (then stop). I picture in my mind things in the engine rubbing against one another when they get pushed like that.
The total trip is 35 miles, so the engine is plenty hot.
I am not sure how stop and go would cause more metal to metal contact?
Frequent revs from 1000 to 4000 (then stop). I picture in my mind things in the engine rubbing against one another when they get pushed like that.
The total trip is 35 miles, so the engine is plenty hot.
Stop-n-go is harder in the sense that 1000 miles in a stop n go traffic is actually more hours of engine time than 1000 miles on a normal road. I normally see my engine temp a bit higher in stop n go as well, so I assume all fluids are experiencing this too. This is why there is the concept of "severe service duty" A vehicle used in such cycle needs to change its oil 20-40% miles sooner.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: electrolover
I would change it based on time. Every 6 months would do the trick
Or switch to syn and go 1 year
I disagree synthetic that is full of gas is still full of gas. I would just change every spring and fall with the conventional of his choice.
I would change it based on time. Every 6 months would do the trick
Or switch to syn and go 1 year
I disagree synthetic that is full of gas is still full of gas. I would just change every spring and fall with the conventional of his choice.
I do the stop and go and have done it for last 10+ years. 6k a year on average. I did conventional in last car at 6 months with mobil clean 5000 and seemed to do good up and until I had a problem with engine and sludge was built up on rockers when I figured I would save last 2 years of car and change it at 5k. Sold it and this one I have now had 85k on it when I bought it and there was sludge in oil canister so I would assume last owner changed it by light with conventional oil. I now change conventional at 3k and synthetic at 5k but noticed it uses 1/2 qt at the 5k mark with qusd. Just an observation from someone who runs 90% city. Oh I didn't pull cover and inspect this one since I have never worried about sludge if oil pressure was good just did regular oil changes and on all of them if gasket starts leaking I change gasket on covers and notice engines are dirty but sludge build up is non existed after years on vehicles with conventional. It will be interesting when gasket starts leaking to see how good synthetic would clean.
2006 Vue
2.2L Auto
102500
2006 Vue
2.2L Auto
102500
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