Depends, on a Wal-Mart shelf style synthetic oil I bet 10w30 doesn't shear as much. Its kinda apples to oranges; in a boutique brand I bet they are right on par with each other or at least not night and dayHow does 10W-30 stand against 5W-40?
Depends, on a Wal-Mart shelf style synthetic oil I bet 10w30 doesn't shear as much. Its kinda apples to oranges; in a boutique brand I bet they are right on par with each other or at least not night and dayHow does 10W-30 stand against 5W-40?
I just switched to 10W30 - but the EP thinking that drives a little better base stocks - not hard to blend a low mileage 10WMy mind the 10w is better I warm climate, less modifiers
...
viscosity modifiers are added to make oil less thin than they would be when hot. Strip the viscosity modifier from a 5W-40 and you likely end up with a 0W-20.
...
I've been reading some of the previous pages of this thread and your post on page 1 caught my attention.
Can you please elaborate on how does stripping away vm from a 5W-30 will result in a more superior base oil?
Unless if you had started with a more superior base oil. No?
And I thought that would be rare or economically not viable or as viable.
Like I said in my previous post, as a consumer, I don't chase base oil or formulations. only specs, standards and approvals. They can tweak all they want ... But in general, wouldn't you start with a less inferior (lower grp #) base oil for a 5W?
Less shearI've always wondered this and never have figured it out.
Assuming you keep your RPMs below 2,500 until the car warms up, what would the point in running 10W-30 over 5W-30? If anything I would think you would want to run 5W-30 over the other to get oil to the valvetrain faster.
When up to operating temps when you would go wide open throttle, both oils are the same weight.
The only way I would be comfortable going with a 10w30 would be if it were made by Amsoil or HPL. Then I’d know it was made with little to no VIIIf you knew for certain that the 10w-30 had less VII than the 5w30 would be the number one reason to use a 10w-30.
I made a few posts on that first page it seems.
If you want to blend a 10W-30 without VM, you have to use superior base oils to what you need to make a 5W-30 with VM. So yes, you have to start with superior base oils. It is rare, but 10W-30 synthetics do exist in various forms, from on the shelf to boutique oils.
If you go by approvals, you exclude a lot of these oils, as the manufacturer approvals are always limited to a few viscosity grades.
If you want to make a 5W-XX oil, you don't need very expensive base oils, just thin grp II and grp III, viscosity boosted by VM. That is if you don't care much about volatility, shear stability, cleanliness and that is what manufacturer aprovals are trying to move people away from: the cheapest possible formulations.
Thanks for the response but your statement below was the one that got me curious:
"Strip the viscosity modifier from a 5W-40 and you likely end up with a 0W-20. "
I can see removing or reducing the vm resulting in a lower SAE viscosity grade (e.g. From 40 to 30 or 20) but turning it into a more superior base oil required for a 0W was my question. Unless the oil started with a superior base oil to begin with. Which is not economically viable for a 5W oil. No?
Depends on the particular oil and more importantly on the temperature.10W-30 is a little thicker/heavier/viscous? My Saturn is a leaker. I’ll go back to 5W-30 in the fall. Maxlife/high mileage of course.
I wonder what the major oil companies chemical make up of synthetic 10W30 vs. their 5W30 oils are ? Do their synthetic 5W30 oils get better ingredients , add packs , base stocks , etc. than the 10W30 synthetic oils ? If so , then even if your temps stay above 0 degrees F , you might be better off running a 5W30 oil .All else being equal
the 10W-30 has less viscosity modifiers which are not 100% shear stable and cause deposits
the 10W-30 is less volatile
the 10W-30 has a higher base oil viscosity mix, which timing chains love.
If you can get a synthetic 10W-30 and the temperatures in your area are high enough to use it (above 0°F at all times), I see no reason to use 5W-30
As I've posted previously, Mobil has shown that a 10W-30 can be blended with their EHC (Group II) bases, and since there are very few OE approvals that apply to a 10W-30, they are very much an "also made" product, which means that, outside of boutique blender applications, you likely aren't seeing best effort formulations in this grade.I wonder what the major oil companies chemical make up of synthetic 10W30 vs. their 5W30 oils are ? Do their synthetic 5W30 oils get better ingredients , add packs , base stocks , etc. than the 10W30 synthetic oils ? If so , then even if your temps stay above 0 degrees F , you might be better off running a 5W30 oil .
Link to this site?That may be the trend for certain brands of oils with a "no holds barred" formulation approach, but if we are talking your Walmart shelf offering, as the blending guide examples I provided earlier show, you can't just make that assumption. A 10W-30 isn't eligible for dexos or many other OE specs so there's no real incentive to make it "better" than a 5W-30 that is dexos and carries approvals.
This Havoline conventional 10W-30 for example, certainly isn't anything to write home about:
View attachment 255653
Heck, neither was this Royal Purple 10W-30:
View attachment 255654
And of course then we have 5W-30's with no VII in them, like those found in HPL's No VII series.
The HPL site?Link to this site?
There are over two dozen EHC customers including big name and - I’ll stop there before folks get wound up …As I've posted previously, Mobil has shown that a 10W-30 can be blended with their EHC (Group II) bases, and since there are very few OE approvals that apply to a 10W-30, they are very much an "also made" product, which means that, outside of boutique blender applications, you likely aren't seeing best effort formulations in this grade.