Is Cosmoline closest to GM frame wax?

[LeakySeals]

Looked great I thought (sorry about sideways, but bitog forced it this way)

But a few months later the mess began. This was the spring after a winter using FF. Flaking off with rust underneath. It appeared to me that all the necessary oil was absorbed by soot and sand.

And this is the 2005 purchased because it was "oil sprayed"

As you can see that's pretty much a disaster too. The dirt is so thick you can't even see where things are at work on. What a mess. So I can't switch it over to the wax until I get this off. So far the front is done

 

[JHZR2]

So one of the theories with "hard" coatings, which I'd include most semi-drying waxes to be, is that they do allow some level of moisture to diffuse in and under, allowing rust to continue.

I observed that with Amsoil HDMP on some bolts underhood of my Saab, when I tried it a few years back - rust started and grew under the wax.

Water will diffuse through wax and hydrocarbon, see:

http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.496.3804&rep=rep1&type=pdf

and a bunch of studies of water loss and permeation through waxes in plants. It's not fast, in fact it's really slow, but it can happen, and I have to wonder if it's even slower to diffuse back away from the metal once in there.

Ive always been hesitant to go with waxy coatings because of this. I'm less comfortable with them in high exposure areas. Possibly more ok with them in non wash and less exposed areas....

 

[LeakySeals]

Wish my thread had a new name like long term RP-342 Cosmoline results or something like that.

I don't know about other wax products, I'm only familiar with Fluid Film and RP-342 Cosmoline long term.

I first applied RP-342 Nov 2018. Just before winter. Used 6 cans. So far, rusting has paused wherever RP-342 has been applied. Its amber colored, collects no soot layer so you can see through it. Creates a patina on open rust spots. You know nothing is happening under the layer. Because you can see it. No chips or flakes like I experienced with FF.

Ive been monitoring this rear stabilizer bar bolt. First pic is 9 months after FF spray. Completely washed off.

The second is 10 months after RP-342. The surface just looks wet, patina is the best description I can come up with. Did not wash off. Water beads up and the undercarriage stays clean.

Also note on the axle where the Fluid Film flaked off. The RP-342 has created a patina on that as well. I did not retreat the areas this year.

Note: when it's real hot out I can smell it a little bit. Like its alive lol. I think its softer in the heat and moves around. Also I got some overspray on the exhaust. Took a month for that to burn off. So its flashpoint must be pretty high.

 

[buck91]

The Cosmoline has a very similar appearance to Amsoil HDMP. Does it dry or remain fluid?

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted by buck91
The Cosmoline has a very similar appearance to Amsoil HDMP. Does it dry or remain fluid?

RP-342 is not an oil spray. It is military grade Cosmoline in a spray can. A wax. Used for decades by the military including WW II to protect weapons and equipment from the salt water and corrosion. Indefinitely.

My experience using it as an undercoating/rust proofer is it's fairly hard when it's cold out. But when it's hot out in the summer it's softer and will creep a bit. It seems to fill in and smooth out anywhere where it got scratched. But it never gets wet like oil. It was up over 100 F here a few times and I checked it. Was a little tacky but it wasn't wet. And oooo that cosmoline smell. Like I just sprayed it. But only when it's hot out.

It has other uses like battery terminals. Great luck so far with that no corrosion. No battery acid nothing on the experiment in the Maxima. Which has a history of corroding terminals I'm kind of surprised by that.

Next experiment is going to be the snow blower. Rather than coat the chute with fluid film I'm going to coat it with RP - 342 and see what happens. I sure hope it works because the stuff is not easy to get off.

Collectors of old military weapons curse the stuff. But IMO it's perfect for protecting the undercarriage and frame.

 

[LeakySeals]

RP-342 is a thicker version of Cosmoline than what was on that rifle

 

[LeakySeals]

I was doing some work today and have my lamp pointed at the fender well. In addition to light it creates a lot of heat. I can smell the cosmoline in this area as it warms up. It's not obnoxious but I'm aware of it. Not wet. A little on the tacky side but not too bad. Same condition since the spring when I sprayed it. A satin amber shine. Nothing sticking to it. Looks like the light exposed the internals of the frame which I need to treat before the winter.

 

[dlundblad]

Amsoil has a decent undercoating spray. I think it's also marketed as a motorcycle chain lube spray.

Smells like oil and blue cheese, but it works.

 

[NYSADKHunter]

It's the same. Harder when it's cold. On a warm day it's softer but doesn't flake off or anything like that. Definitely wear gloves it's tough to get off your hands. I can smell it a bit on warm days. And the best part is the surface stays clean. No soot. Just bought another case and a extension nozzle for the inside of the frame. I also plan to put it in the snowblower chute. I'm hoping it will make the surface slippery like fluid film but without the oil.

Hi LeakySeals,
I'm really hoping you are able to see my post/reply. I'm sitting on 48 cans of RP-342. I have four vehicles I'm about to do. I really need to know where you found that female cap and wand extension with 360tip. I've looked all over for it and can't find one. I know the male end of the can is 4mm but I can't find what you have there....anywhere. Thanks in advance!

 

[LeakySeals]

Nice! I got it off an eBay from a seller in Lithuania. It doesn't fit perfect. But good enough to get the job done. A lot comes out with this wand so move quickly. Pull it through the frame at a fairly rapid pace. Let dry for 2 hours go back and do it again. It's a good idea to use air or water to clean out the inside of the frame or doors or whatever prior to application.

 

[NYSADKHunter]

Nice! I got it off an eBay from a seller in Lithuania. It doesn't fit perfect. But good enough to get the job done. A lot comes out with this wand so move quickly. Pull it through the frame at a fairly rapid pace. Let dry for 2 hours go back and do it again. It's a good idea to use air or water to clean out the inside of the frame or doors or whatever prior to application.

Much appreciated!!!!!!

 

[Rand]

what about https://www.amazon.com/CRC-06026-Heavy-Corrosion-Inhibitor/dp/B0000AXYA0

its cosmoline based as well... also much cheaper.

 

[NYSADKHunter]

Considering Cosmolinedirect told me they can't advertise it but they hear people getting 2-5 years out of a coating, I really don't want to go thinner. I've seen RP-342 from application to dry and it seems best.

 

[JT20]

It probably nowhere near as good as the military stuff, but

How about this

https://www.amazon.com/Corrosion-X-...=corrosion-x+heavy+duty&qid=1599608445&sr=8-5

?

 

[NYSADKHunter]

It probably nowhere near as good as the military stuff, but

How about this

https://www.amazon.com/Corrosion-X-...=corrosion-x+heavy+duty&qid=1599608445&sr=8-5

?

It appears to be same genre as Fluid Film or Corrosion Free 3000.

 

[porterdog]

It probably nowhere near as good as the military stuff, but

How about this

https://www.amazon.com/Corrosion-X-...=corrosion-x+heavy+duty&qid=1599608445&sr=8-5

?

I've been using this in combination with the light duty version since ~2010 and like it pretty well. It's not as durable as I'd like (I usually reapply in the spring and in the fall) and definitely attracts/holds a lot of dirt. I like to make a mix of 25% CorrosionX HD, 25% CorrosionX non-HD, and 50% mineral spirits and apply with a chem-resistant spray bottle.

One decided advantage it does have is it's wicking or creeping behavior; you can spray a quarter-sized blop and if it's warm out within a couple weeks it will spread out 10-12" in any direction (including up). This makes it very easy to apply in that one need not be super careful to get it everywhere it needs to go. It will also soak through the existing rust, so you can spray it on a rusty surface to slow the progress of corrosion. If there's flaking paint or undercoat however you need to scrape first.

Do the cosmoline-based products like RP-342 wick?

 

[NYSADKHunter]

RP342 does not wick but for high splash exposed areas, that's the product that will stay 2-5 years. The other film products are good inside frames and doors. I won't be applying RP342 to boots and rubbers or electrical. For areas I won't be able to get to easily or don't want to do yearly, I'll use RP342.

 

[JHZR2]

RP342 does not wick but for high splash exposed areas, that's the product that will stay 2-5 years. The other film products are good inside frames and doors. I won't be applying RP342 to boots and rubbers or electrical. For areas I won't be able to get to easily or don't want to do yearly, I'll use RP342.

That’s logical.

ive seen where moisture can get under or in cosmoline type sprays, but overall they do good to protect. Generally IMO a light topping of an oily spray is good since it will creep into the crevices. In non spray areas, FF does well for that too,as it will linger and protect.

 

[LeakySeals]

That’s logical.

ive seen where moisture can get under or in cosmoline type sprays, but overall they do good to protect. Generally IMO a light topping of an oily spray is good since it will creep into the crevices. In non spray areas, FF does well for that too,as it will linger and protect.

Moisture does not creep under RP-342. Doesn't wash off either. It's Superior to oil in many ways.

 

[NYSADKHunter]

That’s logical.

ive seen where moisture can get under or in cosmoline type sprays, but overall they do good to protect. Generally IMO a light topping of an oily spray is good since it will creep into the crevices. In non spray areas, FF does well for that too,as it will linger and protect.

If you use RP-342....and not one of the other variants, you'll get the best performance. With that being said, once I'm sure the interiors are dry, I will be spraying the interiors of frame parts with Corrosion Free 3000 (like Fluid Film) since that does creep and will seek out any areas I happened to miss.