Is Cosmoline closest to GM frame wax?

[icucicu]

Do you guys think applying cosmoline over bar chain oil/paraffin mix would work?

I undercoated my truck with a mixture of 3/4 bar chain oil and 1/4 paraffin wax about 4 years ago. It worked great and stopped the rust dead in its track. However, the film coat is getting thin now, maybe because this waxoil mixture collected soot dust over time.

I want to switch to cosmoline, but cleaning the waxoil before application would be near impossible. Any idea what happens if cosmoline goes over waxoil ?

 

[JHZR2]

Ive had mixed luck with cosmoline. Ive sprayed it in places and it makes a nice coating, while other places it dries and doesnt “stick”.

I recently used CRC Corrosion inhibitor in the door of my 96 Ram, then topped it with woolwax. That worked ok. I can see why such hardening products may not last over a soft, creeping coating though.

 

[LeakySeals]

Oil and wax/cosmoline do not mix. FF or Woolwax needs to be removed before using wax or it won't adhere. Using oil sprays after applying wax/cosmoline will soften, dilute, melt it.

 

[Snagglefoot]

Here is a bit on the generic product called Cosmoline.

 

[Snagglefoot]

Rather than look for products to put a thick coating over top existing rust, I just soak the rusty surface with an oil, in this case Krown and repeat every fall. It’s hard to convince people to cover that nice new factory coating with something, but you really should. I don’t think auto manufacturers have made sufficient effort to make the factory coating last.

 

[icucicu]

Oil and wax/cosmoline do not mix. FF or Woolwax needs to be removed before using wax or it won't adhere. Using oil sprays after applying wax/cosmoline will soften, dilute, melt it.

FF and woolwax have lanonin/linseed oil, I can see them not mixing with petroleum products like cosmoline. I read online that cosmoline is a "wax suspended in oil", similar to a vaseline with melted paraffin wax. Wouldn't the bar chain oil/paraffin mix be close to the composition of cosmoline, and allow them to mix?

It is fine if the cosmoline gets diluted because of the existing waxoil. At this point, I can either recoat with waxoil or cosmoline. If cosmiline gets diluted, but still yields better results overall, then recoat with cosmoline is what I want to do.

 

[icucicu]

FF and woolwax have lanonin/linseed oil, I can see them not mixing with petroleum products like cosmoline. I read online that cosmoline is a "wax suspended in oil", similar to a vaseline with melted paraffin wax. Wouldn't the bar chain oil/paraffin mix be close to the composition of cosmoline, and allow them to mix?

It is fine if the cosmoline gets diluted because of the existing waxoil. At this point, I can either recoat with waxoil or cosmoline. If cosmiline gets diluted, but still yields better results overall, then recoat with cosmoline is what I want to do.

Answer to self for other readers. I bought some cosmoline and tried spraying it over my DIY waxoil. It did not work, meaning that the two did no mix at all. The result is a very thin layer of cosmoline over waxoil, which makes little difference from having just waxoil.

 

[CarDoc66]

Update. the X-121B is nice to get the black color. But as far as ease of use, how tacky the wax remains, I think the RP-342 is the better choice. It wicks into the tiniest places then sets up nice. Beads up, repels water, no soot. Connector friendly. i tried one that was coated and it wasn't stuck.

Removing Fluid Film chips, oil, and soot is still giving me fits trying to put this on..

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That looks like nice stuff! I’m big on cleaning forts then using some type of rust converter. Rust always seems to come back so I do as much prep as possible to the surface before coating.
You know the saying: Rust never sleeps.

 

[buck91]

FF and woolwax have lanonin/linseed oil, I can see them not mixing with petroleum products like cosmoline. I read online that cosmoline is a "wax suspended in oil", similar to a vaseline with melted paraffin wax. Wouldn't the bar chain oil/paraffin mix be close to the composition of cosmoline, and allow them to mix?

It is fine if the cosmoline gets diluted because of the existing waxoil. At this point, I can either recoat with waxoil or cosmoline. If cosmiline gets diluted, but still yields better results overall, then recoat with cosmoline is what I want to do.

Are you sure about the linseed oil aspect?

 

[mattd]

The RP342 would be very expensive to do on a super duty. The “heavy” formula is all backordered, but the black looks to be available.

I use NH oil and reapply every year. It costs me about 100$ per year.

I too am quite curious if there is anything brewing beneath that coating.

 

[gerard143]

About $80 for a gallon. Which would do the super duty easily and then some.

 

[mattd]

About $80 for a gallon. Which would do the super duty easily and then some.

I use 2 gallons of the NH oil current for my Crew cab short bed 4x4 for the frame and body. Shouldn’t it be similar coverage ?

I already sprayed the oil coating this year. Next year I may look into the cosmoline. If I do use the cosmoline I will likely still spray the insides of the boxes frame and channels with the oil spray and the outside of everything use the cosmoline

 

[mattd]

@LeakySeals how does the coating look after another year? I am most curious if there is anything developing/progressing underneath but also am curious as to the durability

 

[LeakySeals]

Past year has been the best. It's down to a couple touch-ups here and there. No more rust bleeding through. Would appear 2 coats at a minimum if you have some rust or if the surface was not pristine maybe had some oil. It's the perfect thing for the brake lines on these trucks. No more surface rusting they look great

 

[mattd]

Past year has been the best. It's down to a couple touch-ups here and there. No more rust bleeding through. Would appear 2 coats at a minimum if you have some rust or if the surface was not pristine maybe had some oil. It's the perfect thing for the brake lines on these trucks. No more surface rusting they look great

There is no progression of rust or formation of new rust under the coating?

 

[LeakySeals]

Right now using a flash. If its rusting underneath I can't tell. Because it's amber and somewhat clear you can see through it. Doesn't appear to be getting any worse.

 

[mattd]

Right now using a flash. If its rusting underneath I can't tell. Because it's amber and somewhat clear you can see through it. Doesn't appear to be getting any worse.

Hmm tough to tell but it does look like bleed through. Almost looks like you could peel that piece off right in the top center. Do you have any before pics of that same area?

 

[LeakySeals]

I have tons of before and after fluid film and before and after cosmoline pics of the truck. But I don't of that exact area.

Anyways this is what a bleed looks like. One coat last year on the rusty subframe of my daily driver. The cosmoline didn't adhere in that area. Was either a flake of rust or that area still has oil from a CV axle leak. I didn't prep it enough. The rust spots on the truck look dark and wet because they are coated. No oxygen. Here they are lighter and dry looking. Because they are exposed. Needs another coat.

They sell a black version of the cosmoline now. I could spray that on it and it would look better. But it may hide the truth that's why I haven't used it. I like to see where it's failing and deal with it rather than cover it up with black.

 

[mattd]

I agree with you, I’d rather see it where I know there is already rust growing to monitor it

 

[LeakySeals]

It doesn't look like that if you don't use the flash it's all dark. I'd be scared to use the flash on the Malibu. 16 years of oil sprays and soot.