No.
Is anyone going one grade up for the summer?
- Thread starter Merkava_4
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I use 5W-30 year round. I see no need to do otherwise. Like Bill, I've been stuck in near 100 degree temps in stop-and-go in downtown Chicago for hours and hours and my UOA came back excellent using Havoline DS 5W-30(conventional) for 4,300 miles.
will bump from Durablend 5w30 to Rotella 10w30 for the summer in my 98 Explorer 5.0
in my 92, probably 10w40
in my 92, probably 10w40
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Today I am draining my QS QTorque Power 5W-30 for my Drivers Club purchase of Pennzoil Platinum 5W-40. Then I will return to my last five quarts of QS 5W-30 around November 1st.
The manual for my '98 2.4L Pontiac says that I "can" use 10W-30 when the temperature is above some value (I think 40F), but that 5W-30 is recommended for all temperature ranges.
So, I run Mobil 1 5W-30 all the time (although I'm thinking of switching to PP).
So, I run Mobil 1 5W-30 all the time (although I'm thinking of switching to PP).
I live in S.Florida, and use Amsoil ASM 0w20 all year round on my Mazda6s.
No... sticking with 5W30 GTX for the the rinse phase in both cars.
Bill, I like your car. A 5spd corolla is quite rare around here. I was looking for one a while back. Never knew they did over 40mpg, that is excellent.
For my ride, I will soon be going to 20w50. Got 10w30 right now. Actually when I got the car back in Nov it had fresh oil, so I ran it awile then it got hotter so I went ahead and put in 20w50, did about 2500 miles then put back in 10w30 (which is in there now), now I'm waiting for the temp to get above 86F, then go back to 20w50 and run it until temps cool back down in the fall.
So, yes.....am I the only one?
For my ride, I will soon be going to 20w50. Got 10w30 right now. Actually when I got the car back in Nov it had fresh oil, so I ran it awile then it got hotter so I went ahead and put in 20w50, did about 2500 miles then put back in 10w30 (which is in there now), now I'm waiting for the temp to get above 86F, then go back to 20w50 and run it until temps cool back down in the fall.
So, yes.....am I the only one?
20w-50 is like syrup. Do you really need it?
It reduces flow through the bearings there by increasing heat in the bearings which may cause premature bearing failure.
Thicker is only rarely better. At the very least it is probably giving you worse fuel economy over say a 10w-30.
SS
It reduces flow through the bearings there by increasing heat in the bearings which may cause premature bearing failure.
Thicker is only rarely better. At the very least it is probably giving you worse fuel economy over say a 10w-30.
SS
I go down for the one winter oil change. I have mostly all 30 weight, so I use that in my Accord, but do 20 weight in winter. That helps get back some mpg and, of course, cold-starts. I tried GC in my RSX for summer, it was too thick.
Let see I have some SAE 30 BP VanLube, some 15W40 and some RTS 5W40 and I am not sure which one I am going to run first!!!LOL I also have 5W30 and 10W30 in a variety of synthetics but what fun would that be? I think I might try some either SAE 30 for 15W40 or 5W40 with some Auto-RX and then rinse with one of the ones left over!Maybe I can find some Valvoline SAE 30 to run for spring and save the HD stuff for the rinse phase!
Originally Posted By: AmericaWestCMH
I'd follow what the book recommends. If it's 5w-20, so be it. I'm not an engineer, but they are.
Amen, Bro'!! A while back I quizzed my Ford dealer service rep about this 5w20 vs 5w30 question (I have 2 Crown Vics with the modular 4.6). He stated, "Trust them on this one!" meaning the Ford engineers.
I'd follow what the book recommends. If it's 5w-20, so be it. I'm not an engineer, but they are.
Amen, Bro'!! A while back I quizzed my Ford dealer service rep about this 5w20 vs 5w30 question (I have 2 Crown Vics with the modular 4.6). He stated, "Trust them on this one!" meaning the Ford engineers.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
I'm taking about the kind of brutal summers that are in Central California, Arizona and Nevada. We'll get 100F to 110F degree days for like 2 months straight. If your car calls for 5W-20, would you go 5W-30? If your car calls for 10W-30, would you go 10W-40?
I know some around here with vested interests push the thin oils no matter how brutal the ambient temps.
Moreover, manufacturers spec thin oils so as to eek out the last bit of fuel economy to meet their CAFE requirements, not because it is necessarily the best choice for engine longevity.
In the extreme conditions "Merkava" mentioned I would definetly go up a grade or two.
Here is a related article:
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/article_detail.asp?articleid=518
I'm taking about the kind of brutal summers that are in Central California, Arizona and Nevada. We'll get 100F to 110F degree days for like 2 months straight. If your car calls for 5W-20, would you go 5W-30? If your car calls for 10W-30, would you go 10W-40?
I know some around here with vested interests push the thin oils no matter how brutal the ambient temps.
Moreover, manufacturers spec thin oils so as to eek out the last bit of fuel economy to meet their CAFE requirements, not because it is necessarily the best choice for engine longevity.
In the extreme conditions "Merkava" mentioned I would definetly go up a grade or two.
Here is a related article:
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/article_detail.asp?articleid=518
Originally Posted By: ArmPitt
Originally Posted By: AmericaWestCMH
I'd follow what the book recommends. If it's 5w-20, so be it. I'm not an engineer, but they are.
Amen, Bro'!! A while back I quizzed my Ford dealer service rep about this 5w20 vs 5w30 question (I have 2 Crown Vics with the modular 4.6). He stated, "Trust them on this one!" meaning the Ford engineers.
Well, Ford engineers are also the same group who designed the Explorer with a tendency to roll over.
They then recommeded lowering tire air pressures to 26lbs for improved stabilty which, arguably, was a contributing factor in the exploding Firestone tire debacle.
Originally Posted By: AmericaWestCMH
I'd follow what the book recommends. If it's 5w-20, so be it. I'm not an engineer, but they are.
Amen, Bro'!! A while back I quizzed my Ford dealer service rep about this 5w20 vs 5w30 question (I have 2 Crown Vics with the modular 4.6). He stated, "Trust them on this one!" meaning the Ford engineers.
Well, Ford engineers are also the same group who designed the Explorer with a tendency to roll over.
They then recommeded lowering tire air pressures to 26lbs for improved stabilty which, arguably, was a contributing factor in the exploding Firestone tire debacle.
Originally Posted By: Rock_Hudstone
Well, Ford engineers are also the same group who designed the Explorer with a tendency to roll over.
If the chassis design team also designed the modular engine (which I seriously doubt in a large organization that has many many teams working on many many aspects of any car), I'd say that your point is valid. IMHO and from my experience, the Ford engine design team did a great job on the modular. It's a "proven" almost bullet-proof engine.
One thing to consider about thicker oils on a "tall" block such as the modular, especially on a cold start: the time it takes the oil to drain back down into the pan. For a short period after the start, most of the oil will be in the upper part of the engine leaving a possible shortage down in the pan. This is why, along with the engineers' recommendations, I am comfy with the thin free-flowing 5w20 year-round.
Well, Ford engineers are also the same group who designed the Explorer with a tendency to roll over.
If the chassis design team also designed the modular engine (which I seriously doubt in a large organization that has many many teams working on many many aspects of any car), I'd say that your point is valid. IMHO and from my experience, the Ford engine design team did a great job on the modular. It's a "proven" almost bullet-proof engine.
One thing to consider about thicker oils on a "tall" block such as the modular, especially on a cold start: the time it takes the oil to drain back down into the pan. For a short period after the start, most of the oil will be in the upper part of the engine leaving a possible shortage down in the pan. This is why, along with the engineers' recommendations, I am comfy with the thin free-flowing 5w20 year-round.
People instinctively think- Oh, a lil thicker is better, but do so without any real reference as to how thick an oil should be.
Can it be as simple as our instinct goes far back to evolution...to ~water~ as a physical and mental reference? We don't really experience the oil in the engine at op temp, but we "experience" oil at room temp as we pour it. Maybe we then compare it to pouring water, and want it thicker. How thick is water anyway??? I'm going to look it up.
Ok, it's thinner than I thought...
η = 1.7921 mPa·s (cP) at 0 °C η = 0.5494 mPa·s at 50 °C
η = 1.5188 mPa·s at 5 °C η = 0.5064 mPa·s at 55 °C
η = 1.3077 mPa·s at 10 °C η = 0.4688 mPa·s at 60 °C
η = 1.1404 mPa·s at 15 °C η = 0.4355 mPa·s at 65 °C
η = 1.0050 mPa·s at 20 °C η = 0.4061 mPa·s at 70 °C
η = 0.8937 mPa·s at 25 °C η = 0.3799 mPa·s at 75 °C
η = 0.8007 mPa·s at 30 °C η = 0.3635 mPa·s at 80 °C
η = 0.7225 mPa·s at 35 °C η = 0.3355 mPa·s at 85 °C
η = 0.6560 mPa·s at 40 °C η = 0.3165 mPa·s at 90 °C
η = 0.5988 mPa·s at 45 °C η = 0.2994 mPa·s at 95 °C
η = 0.2838 mPa·s at 100 °C
I didn't realize it changed visc w/ temp either.
Can it be as simple as our instinct goes far back to evolution...to ~water~ as a physical and mental reference? We don't really experience the oil in the engine at op temp, but we "experience" oil at room temp as we pour it. Maybe we then compare it to pouring water, and want it thicker. How thick is water anyway??? I'm going to look it up.
Ok, it's thinner than I thought...
η = 1.7921 mPa·s (cP) at 0 °C η = 0.5494 mPa·s at 50 °C
η = 1.5188 mPa·s at 5 °C η = 0.5064 mPa·s at 55 °C
η = 1.3077 mPa·s at 10 °C η = 0.4688 mPa·s at 60 °C
η = 1.1404 mPa·s at 15 °C η = 0.4355 mPa·s at 65 °C
η = 1.0050 mPa·s at 20 °C η = 0.4061 mPa·s at 70 °C
η = 0.8937 mPa·s at 25 °C η = 0.3799 mPa·s at 75 °C
η = 0.8007 mPa·s at 30 °C η = 0.3635 mPa·s at 80 °C
η = 0.7225 mPa·s at 35 °C η = 0.3355 mPa·s at 85 °C
η = 0.6560 mPa·s at 40 °C η = 0.3165 mPa·s at 90 °C
η = 0.5988 mPa·s at 45 °C η = 0.2994 mPa·s at 95 °C
η = 0.2838 mPa·s at 100 °C
I didn't realize it changed visc w/ temp either.
I'm taking about the kind of brutal summers that are in Central California, Arizona and Nevada. We'll get 100F to 110F degree days for like 2 months straight. If your car calls for 5W-20, would you go 5W-30? If your car calls for 10W-30, would you go 10W-40?
Nope....
Nope....
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