I'm taking about the kind of brutal summers that are in Central California, Arizona and Nevada. We'll get 100F to 110F degree days for like 2 months straight. If your car calls for 5W-20, would you go 5W-30? If your car calls for 10W-30, would you go 10W-40?
Is anyone going one grade up for the summer?
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My daughter is going to be in 1st grade next fall. I, however, am going to run 5-20 in my 4.6 Modular, and 5-30 in my two Subarus, just as specified by the manufacturer. None of these cars runs hot, partly because they are not turbocharged.
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I suppose that you can go up higher in your climate. With all of the good UOA's that I've seen over the past 4 years here at BITOG, I just don't know that it matters. Look at the UOA's and see if you can find similar vehicles/engines like yours in climates such as AZ, CA, NV. Find an oil(regular or syntetic) that fits your budget and listen to and feel your engine. Check for fuel economy and smoothness/throttle responce. Even do a few UOA's and check the numbers for your particular mileage. Pick an oil that will make you sleep at night. I myself use just about anything in my vehicles and all of my vehicles call for 5W30 which I mostly use here in NY State. In the winter time I throw in a couple of qts of 5W20 with the 5W30 and in the summer time I throw in a couple of qts of 10W30 with the 5W30. My vehicles seem fine, run fine, run smooth and the MPG is fine and I sleep well. I put many miles(nothing less than 200,000 miles) on my vehicles and have never done a UOA but, that doesn't mean that I don't recomend a UOA. UOA's tell alot about an engine such as the PPM of the different metals, fuel dilution, antifreeze in the oil due to leaking head or intake manifold gaskets, TAN/TBN, how the oil is holding up for your particular driving habits and miles put on the engine during an OCI along with extending your OCI's and many other things as well. All of these things Im sure that you already know since I've seen your name(Merkava_4) for some time now. Im not so concerned about extending my OCI's too far, just further than I used to(3mo/3000mi). Since discovering BITOG, I now go further(5-6mo/5-6000mi)and make sure that I use oils that hare held in high reguard and on sale or closeout and I buy up the shelve when the price is right. My daughter lives in Phoenix and she just makes sure that there is oil in the engine and her car runs just fine. She's more concerned that the A/C is working and drinks lots of bottled water. LOL
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
I'm taking about the kind of brutal summers that are in Central California, Arizona and Nevada. We'll get 100F to 110F degree days for like 2 months straight. If your car calls for 5W-20, would you go 5W-30? If your car calls for 10W-30, would you go 10W-40?
Automakers visit parts of Arizona and California during the summertime(when temperatures are well above 100F on a daily basis) to conduct the hot weather testing as part of their validation testing. They conduct such testing as they anticipate their customers operating their vehicles under such conditions, so they want their engine oil recommendations to be up to the task.
So, why would it be necessary to increase your oil viscosity for the summer if the automaker has already done the testing to prove that the recommended grade is fine for such conditions?
I'm taking about the kind of brutal summers that are in Central California, Arizona and Nevada. We'll get 100F to 110F degree days for like 2 months straight. If your car calls for 5W-20, would you go 5W-30? If your car calls for 10W-30, would you go 10W-40?
Automakers visit parts of Arizona and California during the summertime(when temperatures are well above 100F on a daily basis) to conduct the hot weather testing as part of their validation testing. They conduct such testing as they anticipate their customers operating their vehicles under such conditions, so they want their engine oil recommendations to be up to the task.
So, why would it be necessary to increase your oil viscosity for the summer if the automaker has already done the testing to prove that the recommended grade is fine for such conditions?
No. Why?
I'd follow what the book recommends. If it's 5w-20, so be it. I'm not an engineer, but they are.
It is in the high 90s to 100+ here from end of May till Sept.
Add in the high elevations and grades so the engine has a LOT less power.
I have NEVER gone up a grade with any oil / engine I've used.
No need.
Here is a photo of my Corolla stuck in traffic for hours going stop and go. My UOA using 5w-30 conventional for 5k was perfect.
I had 5 people on board and loaded with luggage.
Check out the temp...
We see groups of 4-5 cars/trucks here all the time going down the freeway with badges covered up and bras all over to make folks not know who/what they are. They test all over.
See my tagline below.
It does work.
Bill
Add in the high elevations and grades so the engine has a LOT less power.
I have NEVER gone up a grade with any oil / engine I've used.
No need.
Here is a photo of my Corolla stuck in traffic for hours going stop and go. My UOA using 5w-30 conventional for 5k was perfect.
I had 5 people on board and loaded with luggage.
Check out the temp...
We see groups of 4-5 cars/trucks here all the time going down the freeway with badges covered up and bras all over to make folks not know who/what they are. They test all over.
See my tagline below.
It does work.
Bill
Here in the southeast we run Mobil 1 5W20 oil in both our vehicles year around.
In fact, next oil change am thinking of using 0W20.
Gas prices are expected to be $4.00 a gallon soon and every little bit helps.
In fact, next oil change am thinking of using 0W20.
Gas prices are expected to be $4.00 a gallon soon and every little bit helps.
M1 0w30 from now on and I live in Phoenix, AZ! I love this oil and it works great in my cars.
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Check out the temp...
Yes, very hot, but the engine temp gauge does not look too high. If you drive a lot, why not get Redline oil in the specified grade for your car? Redline will handle the heat.
Another option is a 10w30 or a straight 30.
Check out the temp...
Yes, very hot, but the engine temp gauge does not look too high. If you drive a lot, why not get Redline oil in the specified grade for your car? Redline will handle the heat.
Another option is a 10w30 or a straight 30.
My car specs 5W-30, 10W-30 is acceptable above 0 F and below -25 F 0W-30 is recommended.
They specifically state to not use 40 weight oils.
They specifically state to not use 40 weight oils.
Terry Dyson once stated that going to thicker oil in summer gives no advantages. And remember, the inside of your engine will ALWAYS be hotter than the outside ambient temps. If your cooling system is in order, use what the manufacturer recommends.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
I'm taking about the kind of brutal summers that are in Central California, Arizona and Nevada. We'll get 100F to 110F degree days for like 2 months straight. If your car calls for 5W-20, would you go 5W-30? If your car calls for 10W-30, would you go 10W-40?
So, is your cooling system ot keeping the engine in the operating temprature range?
The difference between the cold and hot weather to the engine at operating temprature is negligible, especially since all the calculations are done on the Kelvin scale.
I'm taking about the kind of brutal summers that are in Central California, Arizona and Nevada. We'll get 100F to 110F degree days for like 2 months straight. If your car calls for 5W-20, would you go 5W-30? If your car calls for 10W-30, would you go 10W-40?
So, is your cooling system ot keeping the engine in the operating temprature range?
The difference between the cold and hot weather to the engine at operating temprature is negligible, especially since all the calculations are done on the Kelvin scale.
It is possible that you could need to bump up a grade in the summer. The cooling system in your vehicle works because of the temperature differential between the engine and the outside air. As that differential becomes smaller (outside temp is closer to engine temp), the system is less efficient. In some cases, I could see it not being sufficient, and your engine running hotter, so a heavier oil could help keep your engine protected.
Of course, the real problem here is an insufficient cooling system, I'd rather just correct that than band-aid it with heavier oil. I don't think this happens too much in modern automobiles, anyway.
Of course, the real problem here is an insufficient cooling system, I'd rather just correct that than band-aid it with heavier oil. I don't think this happens too much in modern automobiles, anyway.
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Hello central California, I have noticed that with my scan gauge engaged even when it hits 110 my cooling system is fine. Too bad I can’t measure my oil temp, this year I am going to a Delvac 5-40, we’ll see how the car likes it.
When it gets this hot it is usually me and not my car that overheats, once I have the AC on full blast the cooling fan is engaged any my temp gauge is rock solid even in stop and go traffic.
1.9 saturn and I can’t overheat it in the local mountains? But just as many here have commented, we don’t see much UOA deviation in the different grades of oil out there.
When it hits 110, I should drive from Davis to Clovis land and race Merkava’s maxlife 10w-40 beasts. Then I’ll need all the 40grade protection I ca get.
When it gets this hot it is usually me and not my car that overheats, once I have the AC on full blast the cooling fan is engaged any my temp gauge is rock solid even in stop and go traffic.
1.9 saturn and I can’t overheat it in the local mountains? But just as many here have commented, we don’t see much UOA deviation in the different grades of oil out there.
When it hits 110, I should drive from Davis to Clovis land and race Merkava’s maxlife 10w-40 beasts. Then I’ll need all the 40grade protection I ca get.
Originally Posted By: TallPaul
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Check out the temp...
Yes, very hot, but the engine temp gauge does not look too high. If you drive a lot, why not get Redline oil in the specified grade for your car? Redline will handle the heat.
Another option is a 10w30 or a straight 30.
Lets see. If conventional 5w-30 is doing great, why would I need to spend the $$$$ for Redline?
Conventional handled the heat just fine. 5w-30 is fine.
105k in 3 years I guess could be considered driving a little...
There is no way I'd go with straight 30 wt or even a 10w-30. Not needed.
I love my 43-47mpg during the Spring-summer-fall seasons.
Though I have noticed my overall MPG dropping slightly since last September I will verifying the reason in the next few months.
Originally Posted By: 02zx9r
dang bill 112 degrees.
Yeah. Bad traffic and look at the water temp gauge. I had the A/C on full (worked well) and with my scan gauge hooked up, my coolant temp NEVER got above 200 degrees on the whole trip.
Toyota builds excellent cars IMO.
My Taurus which made the same trip (not as bad traffic) would warm up at every grade. 230 degrees would be the norm for it.
Take care, Bill
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Check out the temp...
Yes, very hot, but the engine temp gauge does not look too high. If you drive a lot, why not get Redline oil in the specified grade for your car? Redline will handle the heat.
Another option is a 10w30 or a straight 30.
Lets see. If conventional 5w-30 is doing great, why would I need to spend the $$$$ for Redline?
Conventional handled the heat just fine. 5w-30 is fine.
105k in 3 years I guess could be considered driving a little...
There is no way I'd go with straight 30 wt or even a 10w-30. Not needed.
I love my 43-47mpg during the Spring-summer-fall seasons.
Though I have noticed my overall MPG dropping slightly since last September I will verifying the reason in the next few months.
Originally Posted By: 02zx9r
dang bill 112 degrees.
Yeah. Bad traffic and look at the water temp gauge. I had the A/C on full (worked well) and with my scan gauge hooked up, my coolant temp NEVER got above 200 degrees on the whole trip.
Toyota builds excellent cars IMO.
My Taurus which made the same trip (not as bad traffic) would warm up at every grade. 230 degrees would be the norm for it.
Take care, Bill
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