I'm tired of hearing about Auto-Rx

Status
Not open for further replies.
Quote:


Why are you so hung up on pretty pictures?




This is what I had envisioned Auto-Rx doing for a sludged up, varnish infected motor.
grin.gif


2l-1.jpg
 
Auto-Rx does internals and your photo show top end hand cleaning. If you think any oil cleans metal on it's own your mistaken. You must be a new Amsoil Dealer as the most sucessful ones use Auto-Rx before putting Amsoil into there customers engine. Both they and there customer build a solid bond for customer loyalty and no i am not going to give you name of dealers who use Auto-Rx if they want to come forth thats up to them. Happy 4th of July
 
Merkava,

Expecations can be wild and rampant while reality is another. Have you done UOAs with Terry giving the read & compression tests before/after ARX in any vehicles? Is your opinion based on your own testing or reading what others say? If based only on what others say, the opinion will usually be flawed b/c most people aren't qualified to evaluate a product or they don't do the necessary tests to properly evaluate it. Did you ever read the posts from Aaron's (I believe that was the guy) experience with AutoRX? To say that he doubted the product at the beginning would be like calling the Grand Canyon a ditch.
 
yes, i ran the engine at 100mph for a few minutes on the way to work and about 80 on the way back, so the engine must of been hot.
 
Quote:


how about someone gets a old sludgey/varnishy valve cover and then get some 1 inch lab filter papers then spread out the filter papers on the sludgey valve cover equal distance then place a few drops of a 10/30 PCMO on 1 filter paper which the paper will hold the oil onto the sludgey valve cover without it running off and then use the same oil with say 2, 3, and 5% bye volume of ARX on the other filter papers and put in oven at 200F for a few months and see how much if any sludge/varnish is solubilized.
bruce


This is a good idea. I once did something similar. I had an old oil pan with black sludge coating in it. I poured a nickel sized blob of AutoRx on the black sludge and in another location with similar deposits I poured a nickel sized blob of Redline oil. After maybe a week or so sitting at room temp, more sludge wiped off from where the AutoRx sat than from where the Redline sat. Of course my test is worthless because nobody runs straight AutoRx (if they didn't go broke buying the 15 bottles to fill the crankcase, the pure mix would break their engine), and the ester in Redline is probably about 50% of the total volume.
 
I knew I had seen that pic recently. The above pic was taken from this thread. From the sounds of it, that motor was never varnished, sludged up or AutoRx'ed for that matter.
 
KieferS,

I would continue running the AutoRX per the instructions. My clean phase oil and filters from my 2 Nissan's didn't really appear much different from normal OCI's. But on both (an '88 pickup and '97 Maxima), the rinse phase oils looked like I had run 3000+ miles when I only did 1500. But what really convinced me of the cleaning was when I cut open the rinse phase filters. I've been cutting open my filters for years before this, but have never seen the "particles" that were left in the rinse phase filters. I've even got pics, but don't know how to post them.
I did not do any pre-AutoRX compression tests, and my mileage figures would be within any margins of error. But subjectively I can say both vehicles run smoother. I can also say that some minor leaks in the Maxima have completely stopped, and the '88 pickup's have reduced to nothing but damp spots. Neither vehicle uses or leaks ANY measurable oil between 3000+ mile OCI's.
I used AutoRX in the Maxima's auto tranny and power steering. The tranny definitely has a smoother shift. I think I ran the AutoRX about 2000 miles, and did a complete flush/fill with 50/50 Mobil 1 ATF and MaxLife ATF. The difference in shifting started becoming apparent within 500 miles of adding 3 or 4 oz's of the AutoRX. The flush was not responsible for this, although there was even more of an improvement after it.
My power steering may be a little smoother, but that could be a placebo affect. There were no issues with it prior, and none now.
I can say that if someone is expecting to COMPLETELY clean all sludge and varnish from everywhere in their engine, they will most likely be disappointed. I can still see varnish stains in both engines when looking through the oil filler hole. But I think this is only cosmetic. These areas only get minor splash lubrication. I know it remained there even after using Gunk Engine Flush in the distant past. So I think it is wishful thinking that anything will completely remove them short of doing it by hand.
AutoRX appears to clean slowly over time. A few stints to 100 mph just won't do it. But running it 1500+ miles through many heat cycles will.
Personally, I like the results I have gotten with AutoRX, and will continue using it in the future as needed. Like someone else already posted, it is another tool in the toolbox. It won't cure everything, but I believe it does what it is advertised to.

Dave
 
Quote:


I knew I had seen that pic recently. The above pic was taken from this thread. From the sounds of it, that motor was never varnished, sludged up or AutoRx'ed for that matter.




You're absolutely right, but the photo represents a figment of my imagination of what I wish Auto-Rx could do.
wink.gif
 
why would oil be darker in the rinse phase? I'm not questioning you, i've even read the same thing before, but it just make absolutley no sense.
 
All I know, is when I ran it in my now totaled car, that it was amazing the difference it made. I have a motor mount in it, which transfers alot more engine vibrations. It was worst in the cold warmup range of 150-180*F at idle. Rattle your teeth. Now at that same temperature its about as bad as it was before ARX when hot, where every dash panel is squeeking a little. The hot idle now is pretty good; you know its running, but I dont think you could get much smoother with only 4 cyl. and a mount.. Im sure If I took the mount out I wouldnt feel it running.
 
Quote:


why would oil be darker in the rinse phase? I'm not questioning you, i've even read the same thing before, but it just make absolutley no sense.




Because the "rinse" phase is really part of the cleaning phase. The initial treatment breaks the bonds the sludge has with the metal. A lot gets carried away in the oil at that time, but a lot doesn't. It gets "rinsed off" the metal during the rinse phase. Hence, the "rinse oil" gets darker.
 
Going from fail to pass on a Calif smog with a 23 year old Civic with no other changes is like a win. During the rinse phase what came out of the filter looked a bit like thin black mud. I'm going to do a second round to help finish off the case of Delo 400 I bought at Costco. So far this is looking cheaper than the $2,000 overhaul that a shop said was the only solution for such an old car with 485k miles on the clock. With three NAPA gold oil filters one bottle or Auto-Rx and three gallons of Delo 15w-40 and tax comes
to about $75 for each cycle x 2 = $150, plus no two weeks down time for the repairs. When I was told it passed with plenty of margin to go I was really happy. Frank, you're doing pretty well for an old guy like me that's probably trying to retire, like me, too. And besides all that it was fun playing with the mud that came out of the filter.
 
.. and when I finish the second round and take of the valve cover to adjust the valves I'll post a picture. I know you are waiting to see under the valve cover of a 12-valve Honda. It's a beautiful sight.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top