I have owned two Acura TL's and both cars got their oil changed out by 1000 miles. Both cars ran great and not one consumed a drop of oil while many on the acurazine forum complained that their cars were consuming some oil. YMMV
I WANT TO CHANGE MY OIL IN MY HONDA CR-V!!
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Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
I also found this while browsing the site:
Why should I wait to change the oil the first time?
Your Honda engine was delivered with an oil that is specially formulated for new engines that have not yet developed their "natural" wear patterns and may contain minute particles from the manufacturing process.
I don't understand how the engine's "'natural' wear pattern" can be changed by changing the oil.
Also, this confuses me... "and may contain minute particles from the manufacturing process." Wouldn't you want to get that out? I don't think that helps their "keep the FF in" argument.
I've never owned a new vehicle and my two pre-owned ones should last me a long while, so this is questioned mostly out of curiousity.
I personally feel like I would try to find an oil that is the FF or closely matches the FF and change it out early a couple of times if I bought a new vehicle.
I also found this while browsing the site:
Why should I wait to change the oil the first time?
Your Honda engine was delivered with an oil that is specially formulated for new engines that have not yet developed their "natural" wear patterns and may contain minute particles from the manufacturing process.
I don't understand how the engine's "'natural' wear pattern" can be changed by changing the oil.
Also, this confuses me... "and may contain minute particles from the manufacturing process." Wouldn't you want to get that out? I don't think that helps their "keep the FF in" argument.
I've never owned a new vehicle and my two pre-owned ones should last me a long while, so this is questioned mostly out of curiousity.
I personally feel like I would try to find an oil that is the FF or closely matches the FF and change it out early a couple of times if I bought a new vehicle.
Oil Changer...
You can accept the anecedote of one random poster on the internet, or accept that the engineers at Honda know their products better.
It's a no brainer really.
You can accept the anecedote of one random poster on the internet, or accept that the engineers at Honda know their products better.
It's a no brainer really.
For those that want to yank the FF early:
Unless, I am mistaken. Doesn't it take up to 20k plus before most motor's stop shedding metals and other garbage?
Wouldn't there still be junk floating around in the motor until then, no matter how many OCI's were performed?
Unless, I am mistaken. Doesn't it take up to 20k plus before most motor's stop shedding metals and other garbage?
Wouldn't there still be junk floating around in the motor until then, no matter how many OCI's were performed?
Oil Changer,
I have VOAs from DysonAnalysis on both CP Honda 0w-20s. These were run by another BITOG member who chose not to post them, so I haven't either. I don't think he cares if I discuss the results. Note that Honda has a semi (part#-9036) and a full synthetic (part#-9037). The VOAs are remarkable in their unremarkability and the fact that they test out very similarly in composition and performance with the lone exception being TBN which starts out 13% higher (6.9 v. 6.1) for the full syn perhaps indicating better base stocks. Both oils have ~100ppm moly and ~200ppm boron and the usual cleaning agents. In all honesty, I believe the UOA on my Accord looks a lot like used Honda brand oil with the exception of elevated moly, which can be explained by Honda's announcement that they modified the piston skirts in all 2011 engines by adding a moly surfacing to them that no doubt wears into the FF over time and explains the insistence on keeping it in there. One can only conclude that Honda Engineers very much want their new engines exposed to elevated levels of moly during the first 5-7,000 miles of operation.
I have VOAs from DysonAnalysis on both CP Honda 0w-20s. These were run by another BITOG member who chose not to post them, so I haven't either. I don't think he cares if I discuss the results. Note that Honda has a semi (part#-9036) and a full synthetic (part#-9037). The VOAs are remarkable in their unremarkability and the fact that they test out very similarly in composition and performance with the lone exception being TBN which starts out 13% higher (6.9 v. 6.1) for the full syn perhaps indicating better base stocks. Both oils have ~100ppm moly and ~200ppm boron and the usual cleaning agents. In all honesty, I believe the UOA on my Accord looks a lot like used Honda brand oil with the exception of elevated moly, which can be explained by Honda's announcement that they modified the piston skirts in all 2011 engines by adding a moly surfacing to them that no doubt wears into the FF over time and explains the insistence on keeping it in there. One can only conclude that Honda Engineers very much want their new engines exposed to elevated levels of moly during the first 5-7,000 miles of operation.
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OP, I changed the oil in our bought new 2010 Honda Element at 1,000 miles, then again at 2,500 miles, then again at 5,000 miles. I'm now on 5K OCIs (vehicle has almost 30K on it now).
I have always used the Honda filters, Filtech version. All of my oil changes to date have been with Motul 0w-20 X-lite. The Motul is expensive and I used the 0w-20 weight in order to be super cautious with respect to the warranty, just in case something went wrong early on.
All my future oil changes will be using Pennzoil Ultra 5w-30. I have 6 cases of it in the garage (plus another 6 cases of 5w-40 Ultra Euro for the German fleet, Motul 5w-40 X-Max used previously).
Early oil changes are something I have done for every single new vehicle we've ever purchased - from Dodge Durangos to all our German cars. In fact, I changed the oil on my BMW at 500 miles (manual trans as well), then again at 1,500, again at 3,000, and have done 3K OCIs since then (now has 72K on it).
With one exception, I have NEVER had any new vehicle I purchased use a single drop of oil between changes, and we put alot of miles on our fleet. The one exception was my 1991 Ford Taurus SHO, which had that fantastic Yamaha 3.0L, DOHC, 24 valve work of art. It used a quart every 1K which was typical for that motor.
Anyway, stop talking about it. Change the oil. Do it today. Be done with it. Your car with love you for it!
Scott
I have always used the Honda filters, Filtech version. All of my oil changes to date have been with Motul 0w-20 X-lite. The Motul is expensive and I used the 0w-20 weight in order to be super cautious with respect to the warranty, just in case something went wrong early on.
All my future oil changes will be using Pennzoil Ultra 5w-30. I have 6 cases of it in the garage (plus another 6 cases of 5w-40 Ultra Euro for the German fleet, Motul 5w-40 X-Max used previously).
Early oil changes are something I have done for every single new vehicle we've ever purchased - from Dodge Durangos to all our German cars. In fact, I changed the oil on my BMW at 500 miles (manual trans as well), then again at 1,500, again at 3,000, and have done 3K OCIs since then (now has 72K on it).
With one exception, I have NEVER had any new vehicle I purchased use a single drop of oil between changes, and we put alot of miles on our fleet. The one exception was my 1991 Ford Taurus SHO, which had that fantastic Yamaha 3.0L, DOHC, 24 valve work of art. It used a quart every 1K which was typical for that motor.
Anyway, stop talking about it. Change the oil. Do it today. Be done with it. Your car with love you for it!
Scott
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I have 3 Hondas (2000 Odyssey, 2003 Civic, 2006 Accord V6). I bought each of them in the winter. In each of them I changed the original oil at 3750 miles, which was the earliest recommended in 2000-2003 (old timers will remember the 3750 magic number!). Now I have a collective total of 271K miles on them, and they all run like new with zero oil loss. Switched from conventional oil to M1 in 2004, and now I change the oil every 6 months (~7000 miles). I understand your OCD, but if your oil is truly still clear, indicating no fuel dilution, then consider leaving it in for ~5000 miles - like you said above.
I know what you mean about wanting the best for your nice new vehicle, and your comment about winter break-in, but consider that winter break-in might actually be better than doing it in blazing-hot summer, but I don't know. I'm sure you saw it on this site, and I think it makes sense -> take it on long normal drives at various loads & speeds - up hill and down hill if possible, getting it completely warmed-up in the process. Don't baby it and don't race it. I have heard about adding a few runs at WOT, but I could not do this to a new drivetrain.
Enjoy your new CR-V!
I know what you mean about wanting the best for your nice new vehicle, and your comment about winter break-in, but consider that winter break-in might actually be better than doing it in blazing-hot summer, but I don't know. I'm sure you saw it on this site, and I think it makes sense -> take it on long normal drives at various loads & speeds - up hill and down hill if possible, getting it completely warmed-up in the process. Don't baby it and don't race it. I have heard about adding a few runs at WOT, but I could not do this to a new drivetrain.
Enjoy your new CR-V!
Realistically, your vehicle will rust out before the engine will go belly up if you did 5000-7500 mile oil changes. Modern engines don't die if you do not change your oil every 3K miles. Rest of the car is going to fall apart well before the engine.
YOU ALL KNOW THAT BUT YOU CAN'T HELP OVER-ANALYZING.
- Vikas
YOU ALL KNOW THAT BUT YOU CAN'T HELP OVER-ANALYZING.
- Vikas
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Originally Posted By: Vikas
Realistically, your vehicle will rust out before the engine will go belly up if you did 5000-7500 mile oil changes. Modern engines don't die if you do not change your oil every 3K miles. Rest of the car is going to fall apart well before the engine.
YOU ALL KNOW THAT BUT YOU CAN'T HELP OVER-ANALYZING.
- Vikas
That's one of the things that makes this site great!
Realistically, your vehicle will rust out before the engine will go belly up if you did 5000-7500 mile oil changes. Modern engines don't die if you do not change your oil every 3K miles. Rest of the car is going to fall apart well before the engine.
YOU ALL KNOW THAT BUT YOU CAN'T HELP OVER-ANALYZING.
- Vikas
That's one of the things that makes this site great!
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Originally Posted By: SWS
I have 3 Hondas (2000 Odyssey, 2003 Civic, 2006 Accord V6). I bought each of them in the winter. In each of them I changed the original oil at 3750 miles, which was the earliest recommended in 2000-2003 (old timers will remember the 3750 magic number!). Now I have a collective total of 271K miles on them, and they all run like new with zero oil loss. Switched from conventional oil to M1 in 2004, and now I change the oil every 6 months (~7000 miles). I understand your OCD, but if your oil is truly still clear, indicating no fuel dilution, then consider leaving it in for ~5000 miles - like you said above.
I know what you mean about wanting the best for your nice new vehicle, and your comment about winter break-in, but consider that winter break-in might actually be better than doing it in blazing-hot summer, but I don't know. I'm sure you saw it on this site, and I think it makes sense -> take it on long normal drives at various loads & speeds - up hill and down hill if possible, getting it completely warmed-up in the process. Don't baby it and don't race it. I have heard about adding a few runs at WOT, but I could not do this to a new drivetrain.
Enjoy your new CR-V!
The wife is the primary driver. That's a good thing. I would baby it more than her and I would really fixate on the mileage if I was driving it daily.
She drives 30 miles each way to work and home. NO freeway, mostly two-lane highway with a top speed of 50 MPH.
I drive a few miles farther, but almost ALL freeway at about 75 MPH.
Being brand new and only having one chance at making it right makes me dwell on this stuff. Like the saying goes, you only have one chance to make a first impression.
THREE seperate sections of the owners manual and the Honda Owner's Link site state to leave the FF in for the full duration according to the MM. I think I am going to do that and run my own program from that point forward.
I have 3 Hondas (2000 Odyssey, 2003 Civic, 2006 Accord V6). I bought each of them in the winter. In each of them I changed the original oil at 3750 miles, which was the earliest recommended in 2000-2003 (old timers will remember the 3750 magic number!). Now I have a collective total of 271K miles on them, and they all run like new with zero oil loss. Switched from conventional oil to M1 in 2004, and now I change the oil every 6 months (~7000 miles). I understand your OCD, but if your oil is truly still clear, indicating no fuel dilution, then consider leaving it in for ~5000 miles - like you said above.
I know what you mean about wanting the best for your nice new vehicle, and your comment about winter break-in, but consider that winter break-in might actually be better than doing it in blazing-hot summer, but I don't know. I'm sure you saw it on this site, and I think it makes sense -> take it on long normal drives at various loads & speeds - up hill and down hill if possible, getting it completely warmed-up in the process. Don't baby it and don't race it. I have heard about adding a few runs at WOT, but I could not do this to a new drivetrain.
Enjoy your new CR-V!
The wife is the primary driver. That's a good thing. I would baby it more than her and I would really fixate on the mileage if I was driving it daily.
She drives 30 miles each way to work and home. NO freeway, mostly two-lane highway with a top speed of 50 MPH.
I drive a few miles farther, but almost ALL freeway at about 75 MPH.
Being brand new and only having one chance at making it right makes me dwell on this stuff. Like the saying goes, you only have one chance to make a first impression.
THREE seperate sections of the owners manual and the Honda Owner's Link site state to leave the FF in for the full duration according to the MM. I think I am going to do that and run my own program from that point forward.
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Originally Posted By: Indydriver
Oil Changer,
I have VOAs from DysonAnalysis on both CP Honda 0w-20s. These were run by another BITOG member who chose not to post them, so I haven't either. I don't think he cares if I discuss the results. Note that Honda has a semi (part#-9036) and a full synthetic (part#-9037). The VOAs are remarkable in their unremarkability and the fact that they test out very similarly in composition and performance with the lone exception being TBN which starts out 13% higher (6.9 v. 6.1) for the full syn perhaps indicating better base stocks. Both oils have ~100ppm moly and ~200ppm boron and the usual cleaning agents. In all honesty, I believe the UOA on my Accord looks a lot like used Honda brand oil with the exception of elevated moly, which can be explained by Honda's announcement that they modified the piston skirts in all 2011 engines by adding a moly surfacing to them that no doubt wears into the FF over time and explains the insistence on keeping it in there. One can only conclude that Honda Engineers very much want their new engines exposed to elevated levels of moly during the first 5-7,000 miles of operation.
Thanks for the info. I wanted to compare a VOA of the 9037 to the PDS of the OTC stuff. In the end, I'll choose PP or M1 since they are both readily available to me at a good price in the 0W-20.
We know anything SN is going to have a low moly count.
Oil Changer,
I have VOAs from DysonAnalysis on both CP Honda 0w-20s. These were run by another BITOG member who chose not to post them, so I haven't either. I don't think he cares if I discuss the results. Note that Honda has a semi (part#-9036) and a full synthetic (part#-9037). The VOAs are remarkable in their unremarkability and the fact that they test out very similarly in composition and performance with the lone exception being TBN which starts out 13% higher (6.9 v. 6.1) for the full syn perhaps indicating better base stocks. Both oils have ~100ppm moly and ~200ppm boron and the usual cleaning agents. In all honesty, I believe the UOA on my Accord looks a lot like used Honda brand oil with the exception of elevated moly, which can be explained by Honda's announcement that they modified the piston skirts in all 2011 engines by adding a moly surfacing to them that no doubt wears into the FF over time and explains the insistence on keeping it in there. One can only conclude that Honda Engineers very much want their new engines exposed to elevated levels of moly during the first 5-7,000 miles of operation.
Thanks for the info. I wanted to compare a VOA of the 9037 to the PDS of the OTC stuff. In the end, I'll choose PP or M1 since they are both readily available to me at a good price in the 0W-20.
We know anything SN is going to have a low moly count.
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Originally Posted By: SLO_Town
OP, I changed the oil in our bought new 2010 Honda Element at 1,000 miles, then again at 2,500 miles, then again at 5,000 miles. I'm now on 5K OCIs (vehicle has almost 30K on it now).
I have always used the Honda filters, Filtech version. All of my oil changes to date have been with Motul 0w-20 X-lite. The Motul is expensive and I used the 0w-20 weight in order to be super cautious with respect to the warranty, just in case something went wrong early on.
All my future oil changes will be using Pennzoil Ultra 5w-30. I have 6 cases of it in the garage (plus another 6 cases of 5w-40 Ultra Euro for the German fleet, Motul 5w-40 X-Max used previously).
Early oil changes are something I have done for every single new vehicle we've ever purchased - from Dodge Durangos to all our German cars. In fact, I changed the oil on my BMW at 500 miles (manual trans as well), then again at 1,500, again at 3,000, and have done 3K OCIs since then (now has 72K on it).
With one exception, I have NEVER had any new vehicle I purchased use a single drop of oil between changes, and we put alot of miles on our fleet. The one exception was my 1991 Ford Taurus SHO, which had that fantastic Yamaha 3.0L, DOHC, 24 valve work of art. It used a quart every 1K which was typical for that motor.
Anyway, stop talking about it. Change the oil. Do it today. Be done with it. Your car with love you for it!
Scott
I have/had two main concerns:
1. I do not want varnish to get a foothold. I'm just learning about these engines but don't they have cam phasers or something that you don't want gummed up?
2. Get the wear metals out. From what I've been reading, Honda wants that stuff in there with the claim that it helps with break-in.
If I change the oil early, I still plan on using a Honda filter so the same size particles will still circulate through. So why not leave the oil in whuch Honda claims is a special oil.
I will do a UOA when I drain it. I want to see what is so special.
OP, I changed the oil in our bought new 2010 Honda Element at 1,000 miles, then again at 2,500 miles, then again at 5,000 miles. I'm now on 5K OCIs (vehicle has almost 30K on it now).
I have always used the Honda filters, Filtech version. All of my oil changes to date have been with Motul 0w-20 X-lite. The Motul is expensive and I used the 0w-20 weight in order to be super cautious with respect to the warranty, just in case something went wrong early on.
All my future oil changes will be using Pennzoil Ultra 5w-30. I have 6 cases of it in the garage (plus another 6 cases of 5w-40 Ultra Euro for the German fleet, Motul 5w-40 X-Max used previously).
Early oil changes are something I have done for every single new vehicle we've ever purchased - from Dodge Durangos to all our German cars. In fact, I changed the oil on my BMW at 500 miles (manual trans as well), then again at 1,500, again at 3,000, and have done 3K OCIs since then (now has 72K on it).
With one exception, I have NEVER had any new vehicle I purchased use a single drop of oil between changes, and we put alot of miles on our fleet. The one exception was my 1991 Ford Taurus SHO, which had that fantastic Yamaha 3.0L, DOHC, 24 valve work of art. It used a quart every 1K which was typical for that motor.
Anyway, stop talking about it. Change the oil. Do it today. Be done with it. Your car with love you for it!
Scott
I have/had two main concerns:
1. I do not want varnish to get a foothold. I'm just learning about these engines but don't they have cam phasers or something that you don't want gummed up?
2. Get the wear metals out. From what I've been reading, Honda wants that stuff in there with the claim that it helps with break-in.
If I change the oil early, I still plan on using a Honda filter so the same size particles will still circulate through. So why not leave the oil in whuch Honda claims is a special oil.
I will do a UOA when I drain it. I want to see what is so special.
I beleive UOA of honda ff was done and it had high amounts of moly. Why not just change it out and use PYB (SN) which also has a nice dose of moly ?
You can use any oil filter, I prefer Bosch Premium for my Honda's as you can see in my signature.
You can use any oil filter, I prefer Bosch Premium for my Honda's as you can see in my signature.
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i have an '04 accord k24, similar in basic design to the I-4 in your CRV. By all accounts, among them UOA's and CR reliability ratings, it is one of the most bulletproof 4 cylinders on the planet. That model year did not include an OLM for my trim.
I, like you, was not sure about the Honda break-in recommendation. Habits die hard, I guess. I compromised and changed out the factory fill at ~4200 miles, to be followed for the next 40,000 miles by Kendall GT-1 5w-20 semi-syn at a service center @ 5000 OCI. I've been changing my own oil since with mostly pp 5w-20 and a p1 filter at similar OCI, but am starting to stretch it out a bit. Plan to go ~7000mi or greater with my current fill of Honda Idemitsu 0w-20.
Absolutely no engine related issues at 93,700 miles and I don't expect any in the future. The appearance of the valvetrain through the oil fill hole is pristine.
Take a deep breath and resist the urge to change it out early. Engineers at Honda know what they are talking about. That said, my guess is you could change out your FF now or leave it in until the OLM reads zero and still have the engine last 300,000 miles and beyond.
What are your impressions of the CRV so far?
I, like you, was not sure about the Honda break-in recommendation. Habits die hard, I guess. I compromised and changed out the factory fill at ~4200 miles, to be followed for the next 40,000 miles by Kendall GT-1 5w-20 semi-syn at a service center @ 5000 OCI. I've been changing my own oil since with mostly pp 5w-20 and a p1 filter at similar OCI, but am starting to stretch it out a bit. Plan to go ~7000mi or greater with my current fill of Honda Idemitsu 0w-20.
Absolutely no engine related issues at 93,700 miles and I don't expect any in the future. The appearance of the valvetrain through the oil fill hole is pristine.
Take a deep breath and resist the urge to change it out early. Engineers at Honda know what they are talking about. That said, my guess is you could change out your FF now or leave it in until the OLM reads zero and still have the engine last 300,000 miles and beyond.
What are your impressions of the CRV so far?
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Originally Posted By: Mau
I beleive UOA of honda ff was done and it had high amounts of moly. Why not just change it out and use PYB (SN) which also has a nice dose of moly ?
You can use any oil filter, I prefer Bosch Premium for my Honda's as you can see in my signature.
0W-20 means no PYB.
I would run 0W even if the spec was 5W.
I beleive UOA of honda ff was done and it had high amounts of moly. Why not just change it out and use PYB (SN) which also has a nice dose of moly ?
You can use any oil filter, I prefer Bosch Premium for my Honda's as you can see in my signature.
0W-20 means no PYB.
I would run 0W even if the spec was 5W.
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Originally Posted By: k24a4
i have an '04 accord k24, similar in basic design to the I-4 in your CRV. By all accounts, among them UOA's and CR reliability ratings, it is one of the most bulletproof 4 cylinders on the planet. That model year did not include an OLM for my trim.
I, like you, was not sure about the Honda break-in recommendation. Habits die hard, I guess. I compromised and changed out the factory fill at ~4200 miles, to be followed for the next 40,000 miles by Kendall GT-1 5w-20 semi-syn at a service center @ 5000 OCI. I've been changing my own oil since with mostly pp 5w-20 and a p1 filter at similar OCI, but am starting to stretch it out a bit. Plan to go ~7000mi or greater with my current fill of Honda Idemitsu 0w-20.
Absolutely no engine related issues at 93,700 miles and I don't expect any in the future. The appearance of the valvetrain through the oil fill hole is pristine.
Take a deep breath and resist the urge to change it out early. Engineers at Honda know what they are talking about. That said, my guess is you could change out your FF now or leave it in until the OLM reads zero and still have the engine last 300,000 miles and beyond.
What are your impressions of the CRV so far?
I've had a run of bad luck with a Ford then a Chevy.
This is my first go with a Honda. They're supposed to be bulletproof. Time will tell.
I've only driven it twice; it's the wife's primary. As long as it does not leave her stranded, I will call it good to go. All I care about at this point in my life (regarding vehicles) is uncompromising reliability.
i have an '04 accord k24, similar in basic design to the I-4 in your CRV. By all accounts, among them UOA's and CR reliability ratings, it is one of the most bulletproof 4 cylinders on the planet. That model year did not include an OLM for my trim.
I, like you, was not sure about the Honda break-in recommendation. Habits die hard, I guess. I compromised and changed out the factory fill at ~4200 miles, to be followed for the next 40,000 miles by Kendall GT-1 5w-20 semi-syn at a service center @ 5000 OCI. I've been changing my own oil since with mostly pp 5w-20 and a p1 filter at similar OCI, but am starting to stretch it out a bit. Plan to go ~7000mi or greater with my current fill of Honda Idemitsu 0w-20.
Absolutely no engine related issues at 93,700 miles and I don't expect any in the future. The appearance of the valvetrain through the oil fill hole is pristine.
Take a deep breath and resist the urge to change it out early. Engineers at Honda know what they are talking about. That said, my guess is you could change out your FF now or leave it in until the OLM reads zero and still have the engine last 300,000 miles and beyond.
What are your impressions of the CRV so far?
I've had a run of bad luck with a Ford then a Chevy.
This is my first go with a Honda. They're supposed to be bulletproof. Time will tell.
I've only driven it twice; it's the wife's primary. As long as it does not leave her stranded, I will call it good to go. All I care about at this point in my life (regarding vehicles) is uncompromising reliability.
Originally Posted By: 91344George
It's great to have our own opinions but I will take the advice of the engineers at Honda over random people on the internet.
And you are on this site for/?? Im a NIASE Master, Degreed and worked Automotive Engineer component design and prototyping and implemented pilot manufacturing runs. AFA O.M.'s go, By the time the first print inked is dry is you would be lucky if ANY engineers wishes are translated to there. I would also bet dollars to doughnuts that the median engine life predictor/studies would show a markedly positive shift using and appropriately high HTHS oil seasonally over using near non-viscous, near non-additised 0w20 GF-5 lubricants. Guaranteed. To anyone who is torn about an early OC - it doesnt have to be an all-or-nothing proposition. Compromise. The manufacturer's documentation wants the oil in there, lets say, 5-7K (to a 15%OLM). You want to change it at 700-1500miles. Just split the difference. A safe option. My Honda has a roller cam so NP there. The major ring-to-bore wear in was at 0-100miles. Anything else is Minor. Still concerned? Put a non-ILSAC high moly oil back in the sump - I am going to implement 0w-20 Idemitsu "Professionl Use" OEM SM oil. Love the moly on a new or any engine given the required, mid/low saps ZDDP levels on SN/ILSAC oils. Also rest assured that at least half to a third of the moly PPM in the FF may hang in there for the first OC. My engine also utilises Moly shot blasted piston skirts - so less worry there. Most new OEM slipper skirters use Moly on the piston. Most everything else moving and spinning will be uselessly worn by the 12-17micron particulated circulated about. Scratches do hold oil though
It's great to have our own opinions but I will take the advice of the engineers at Honda over random people on the internet.
And you are on this site for/?? Im a NIASE Master, Degreed and worked Automotive Engineer component design and prototyping and implemented pilot manufacturing runs. AFA O.M.'s go, By the time the first print inked is dry is you would be lucky if ANY engineers wishes are translated to there. I would also bet dollars to doughnuts that the median engine life predictor/studies would show a markedly positive shift using and appropriately high HTHS oil seasonally over using near non-viscous, near non-additised 0w20 GF-5 lubricants. Guaranteed. To anyone who is torn about an early OC - it doesnt have to be an all-or-nothing proposition. Compromise. The manufacturer's documentation wants the oil in there, lets say, 5-7K (to a 15%OLM). You want to change it at 700-1500miles. Just split the difference. A safe option. My Honda has a roller cam so NP there. The major ring-to-bore wear in was at 0-100miles. Anything else is Minor. Still concerned? Put a non-ILSAC high moly oil back in the sump - I am going to implement 0w-20 Idemitsu "Professionl Use" OEM SM oil. Love the moly on a new or any engine given the required, mid/low saps ZDDP levels on SN/ILSAC oils. Also rest assured that at least half to a third of the moly PPM in the FF may hang in there for the first OC. My engine also utilises Moly shot blasted piston skirts - so less worry there. Most new OEM slipper skirters use Moly on the piston. Most everything else moving and spinning will be uselessly worn by the 12-17micron particulated circulated about. Scratches do hold oil though
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Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
I will do a UOA when I drain it. I want to see what is so special.
Dont bother laying down the green - folks have analysed FF here hundreds of times. Just do a forum Search or a WWW search. Youll see big moly and tonnes of particles. Disassemble your filter and back rinsh the media and do a partical count. DO you have access to a scope and a slip?
I will do a UOA when I drain it. I want to see what is so special.
Dont bother laying down the green - folks have analysed FF here hundreds of times. Just do a forum Search or a WWW search. Youll see big moly and tonnes of particles. Disassemble your filter and back rinsh the media and do a partical count. DO you have access to a scope and a slip?
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
I will do a UOA when I drain it. I want to see what is so special.
Dont bother laying down the green - folks have analysed FF here hundreds of times. Just do a forum Search or a WWW search. Youll see big moly and tonnes of particles. Disassemble your filter and back rinsh the media and do a partical count. DO you have access to a scope and a slip?
I do not have access to a scope and a slip. As a matter of fact, I have no idea what you are talking about.
Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
I will do a UOA when I drain it. I want to see what is so special.
Dont bother laying down the green - folks have analysed FF here hundreds of times. Just do a forum Search or a WWW search. Youll see big moly and tonnes of particles. Disassemble your filter and back rinsh the media and do a partical count. DO you have access to a scope and a slip?
I do not have access to a scope and a slip. As a matter of fact, I have no idea what you are talking about.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: 91344George
It's great to have our own opinions but I will take the advice of the engineers at Honda over random people on the internet.
And you are on this site for/??
I am as jaundiced as anyone about the potential for the marketing hacks to have too much influence in the manufacture vehicles but honestly I seriously doubt that Honda wants a bunch of irate customers complaining due to improper OCI, so I am certain that the instructions given by Honda in the owner's manual are there for practical, logical, and mechanical reasons, not marketing reasons.
Originally Posted By: 91344George
It's great to have our own opinions but I will take the advice of the engineers at Honda over random people on the internet.
And you are on this site for/??
I am as jaundiced as anyone about the potential for the marketing hacks to have too much influence in the manufacture vehicles but honestly I seriously doubt that Honda wants a bunch of irate customers complaining due to improper OCI, so I am certain that the instructions given by Honda in the owner's manual are there for practical, logical, and mechanical reasons, not marketing reasons.
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