wemay
Site Donor 2023
There have been quite a few Theta with this same result that used 3.5 HTHS oils. You either have a good one or a (relatively speaking) bad.
Hyundia rod through the block carnage
- Thread starter wwillson
- Start date
The Theta II is doomed no matter what you do, if it wants to seize up or throw a rod it will, even if you fill it with straight 50 and drive it like a grandma.
There are multiple warranty extensions on Hyundai engines.
The Theta II extended warranty turned into a lifetime warranty, assuming you got the KSDS update on time. Some model years are excluded.
The 1.8L Nu engine has warranty extension to 10yrs/120,000 miles for rod bearing failure and piston slap.
The 1.6 gamma also has a warranty extension to 10yr/120k miles after completion of the KSDS update. These engines also have a rod bearing failure problem.
The Theta II extended warranty turned into a lifetime warranty, assuming you got the KSDS update on time. Some model years are excluded.
The 1.8L Nu engine has warranty extension to 10yrs/120,000 miles for rod bearing failure and piston slap.
The 1.6 gamma also has a warranty extension to 10yr/120k miles after completion of the KSDS update. These engines also have a rod bearing failure problem.
The 2006-2010 NF Sonata is arguably Hyundais most reliable vehicle. Along with the first generation Hyundai Santa Fe.
Hyundai started having real problems with the introduction of the 2011MY. After the economic crisis in 08-09, and the rise of gas prices, Hyundai decided it wanted to be a leader in design and efficiency. My guess is they spend less $$ on durability testing now.
BTW I own a 2018 Sonata, I’m not a fanboy by any means. I give credit where credit is due but I’ll also highlight issues.
Hyundai also has a MAJOR issue with the DCT transmissions it’s shoving into a lot of its vehicles. Numerous Santa Fe/Sorentos with the 2.5T/8speedDCT that are failing. Similar to the 7speedDCT problem in a number of Hyundai vehicles that are on Extended Warranty now, Hyundai never corrected the issue. They just remove and replace.
I am wondering why people have to run engines so hard. Maybe a lot of 4,000 + RPMs are not a good idea.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
A well designed engine should have absolutely no problem being worked hard and lasting. Lord knows how many 302 HO Ford engines were over-revved, banged off the 6,250RPM limiter...etc and went hundreds of thousands of miles. I sold mine with over 200,000 on it and a good portion of it was making 100HP more than stock.
The S62 in my M5 loved to sing and would explore every inch of that tach.
The 5.4L in our old Expedition would rev pulling hills with a trailer, again, over 200,000 miles on it when we sold it (and it's still going) and still running like a top.
There's no excuse for producing fragile garbage that won't stay together if you run it hard.
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Lol so people have to drive on eggshells with certain brands just so they don’t fail?
And 4000 RPM? Holy cow my old ECHO with the 108 horsepower 1NZ-FE spends most of its life accelerating at that RPM or above.
We were not discussing a well designed engine, were we? We were discussing a Hyundai engine. We also were not discussing a chainsaw engine. If you abuse a cheaply designed and manufactured engine expect negative results. If you want an engine that can take that, buy one designed for it.
at least the intake has no deposits.
in poor countries they would use metal putty, and up you go for another 100 000.
It’s called implied warranty of merchantability. The manufacturer did not advertise and sell a vehicle with a chainsaw engine, they sold an automobile with an automobile engine. Neither did they state in the owner’s manual that operation above 4000 RPM could result in damage nor do they rev-limit the engine to operation below a certain level.
The engine was designed for the operation you listed. Your argument makes no sense.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
You just said "engines", you didn't say THIS engine. You made what came off as a very broad-brush statement and didn't seem in any way to be exclusive to the product mentioned in the OP.
Even if we do constrain the discussion to this particular engine however, as @kschachn notes, the consumer was not sold an engine that they knew was not going to stand-up to regular use and abuse. They bought a car that they assumed (reasonably) that could be treated as one and expected it to be durable. That not being the case does not shift the obligation to the consumer to treat the product like it is fragile, rather it exposes the manufacturer for producing something sub-par, something that should be rectified, in full, not passed off as something that is now the problem of the end user.
SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
I absolutely loved the Ford 302 engines. I had two that were not the HOs yet still were a joy to own and operate. They really hit a home run when they developed those 5.0 engines. My 1994 had only 205 horsepower yet it felt like 305 when you stepped on it. That truck was a blast to drive on the highway when there was room to open it up and go............... But you could not go past too many gas stations. I abused and used and pulled boats and ran that truck like mad and never had one mechanical issue. I had a similar 302 version in my 1986 full size Bronco that was good too. Only issue was about once a year I had to clean the throttle body & flap for some reason. At one time I even toyed with the idea of putting a Ford 302 in one of my Chevelles! Some Chevy folks would freak but I have seen similar in guys hot rods + cars... Some auto guys just like to have fun no matter what brand.
knock knock knock. the people bouncing off the limiter were the same people losing rod bearings
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
From my days on M5board, it seemed that it was the guys that tracked them that had the issue. However, there was one member with like 300,000 miles on his, original bottom end, who did periodically track it and ran M1 0w-40 in his. The S62 wasn't plagued by inevitable rod bearing failure like the S54 was.
The S62 had a very interesting oil pick-up design with three separate pick-ups. One was the main pick-up, and then there was one for each of the "kicks" in the sides of the pan, that were activated using solenoids, whose activation was controlled based on g-force feedback (acceleration). The idea was that when you were cornering hard and the oil was going to one side of the pan, the solenoid would open and it would draw oil from that side of the pan instead.
A guy I met through the forum discovered that one of his was dead (you can test them with 12V, they make an audible click when working properly, you can also activate them manually with the right software, I was able to test mine using AutoEnginuity) and suspected that since there's no code for when they fail, that they were likely the cause of many of the rod bearing failures on the cars that were tracked, a theory which made sense. He had suggested making a tool to check them and to do so when the oil was changed, or when you were planning on tracking the car if you didn't have a scanner that had that functionality.
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Yet I do this daily on my 183k Hyundai and it just doesn't care one bit. I drove 1200 miles to Georgia on the highway going 90-100mph over Thanksgiving, accelerating past 6500rpm to pass slow people.
Those had mitsubishi engines, all of them up to 2004-2005 i believe. Elantra was probably the 4AG(EDIT***4g63***, my mistake was just watching old AE86 corrolla videos), good simple versatile powerplants, if a bit unrefined for the era. Their current powerplant design underpinnings can still be roughly traced back to those old motors. They started to have the big design problems when they started engineering their own engines. Their V6's seem to be reliable simple motors, their 4cyls very often have some kind of problem unless you do perfect maintenance, and even then it sometimes doesnt matter depending on the motor. I know alot of users on this board like their products, but alot of users here also seem to always have a car thats only 0-5 years old. If youre cycling through that fast, they can be good value, if you like to hold onto things or buy used, ya wouldnt touch them. Dont care about the warranty either, I hate feeling the car break on me and dealing with waiting for the car etc even if they give you a rental.
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The old engines you are familiar with still share alot of architecture with old Mitsubishi motors that they produced under contract since the companies inception. Simple, fine engines. Hyundai really getting into designing their own stuff coincided with the start of mpg regs getting tight(2008ish), all OEMs had to scramble to design more efficient motors and all lost some reliability, and least equipped to do this was HyundaiKIA. I have no doubt that many of the engine models they have that dont have the glaring design/production flaws will probably make it to 200k+ miles with good maintenance and production based problems, and all their 4cyl have regular modern 4cyl problems but on crack. Even the new Smartstream has the same old problems. Buying a HyundaiKIA doesnt mean the thing is gonna definitely self destruct at less than 100k miles, but theyre the most likely to and no one can convince me that they are not overall less reliable than 90% of what other makes put out by varying margins. Its evident by results and by looking at alot of their engines/parts up close. Again, theyre not Yugos by any means and they fit alot of peoples needs & budgets, but its head scratching to me when people say they are as reliable as the big dogs now. Choosing a vehicle is all about compromising some things to get other things, its no different here.
Or the car has a garbage transmission instead, and all of the dead ones are bad transmission.
Then the ECU should detune or cut power instead of let it run hard and throw a rod.
Agree, if an engines redline is 7k, then the computer is usually tuned for 6500 RPM, and the real blow up speed is somewhere above that. I doubt many Hyundai's are grenading from being driven too hard, 99% of the time I see one blown up on the Just rolled into the shop subreddit or YouTube the engine was either one of their problem engines or the owner never changed/checked the oil, usually it's the latter. Hyundai and Kia (and to a lesser extent Nissan) seem to attract neglectful car owners for some odd reason.
