wemay
Site Donor 2023
That's painful.
Our Santa Fe Sport block has the lifetime coverage. We even have it in writing.
Our Santa Fe Sport block has the lifetime coverage. We even have it in writing.
Hyundia rod through the block carnage
- Thread starter wwillson
- Start date
Propflux01
$100 Site Donor 2025
Is this the 2.4L or the V6? Both are great engines, but he theta 2, which was used in 2011 on up Hyundai's, were the ones with the problems.
A little bit of JB WELD, remove that cylinder, and he's back on the road.
That brings back some bad memories. I have grenaded a few SBC engines in my youth.
I agree with Mr. W, I would have gone new or rebuilt if I were keeping the car.
That brings back some bad memories. I have grenaded a few SBC engines in my youth.
I agree with Mr. W, I would have gone new or rebuilt if I were keeping the car.
My son's Elantra was gobbling oil (4qts qsud 5w30 ) in 2 k miles, so a trip to the dealer for an oil change and consumption study, they said way too much oil, ordered a short block and gave him a laner we bought in New parts, belts, waterpump and tensioner. So now he has a paid for car and a fresh motor @115K miles last fall. simple process and the dealer was stand up solid, and the work was well done, cudo's to St. Cloud Hundai.
2.4
Propflux01
$100 Site Donor 2025
Why didn't you get the head serviced, as well?
I'd rather have a vehicle whose engine lasts 200k+ with no short block required.
The Mu 4-cyl engines now have a recall in which, you guessed it, their fix is to software to listen for abnormal engine noises (presumably via the knock sensor). So you're still stuck with a lemon engine; I'm curious to see if, and how long, they extend engine warranty for.
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2020
- Messages
- 225
When a motor is garbage design they cost a fortune because you can't find them since they are all blown up ! The Nissan engine must be a reliable one so there is no demand for the supply
I highly doubt not changing oil is going to throw a rod through the crank. If anything they didn't do the ignition timing and or air fuel ratio right and once some carbon build up, boom. GDI is less tolerant of knock and if their metal aren't build for enough abuse tolerance then all bets are off.
Or no one thinks replacing the engine in a 10 year old Versa is worth it.
$300 for a DIY'er to replace the engine and go another 100,000 miles or spend $10,000 for a newer car. You do the math.
I also think 5w-20 is really pushing it, all one has to do is look at the rod and main clearances and operating temperature for the oil in the service manual and it's easy to see it's not an appropriate viscosity.
The same gamma engine in the Soul is basically overclocked in the Accent and Veloster so just keep changing the oil and use at minimum 5w30 and it will keep happily running fine.
The Gamma II is a good example of this, it sounds like a coffee can full of gravel under load at highway speeds if you use 87 octane. I have no idea what kind of damage that could do but I sure as heck don't want to find out, 93 for me.
Lol, thats a good one.
We found out the hard way, about 3 years ago now, that the Hyundai warranty settlement applies to original owner or certified used only. The wife's 2012 Elantra has the 1.8L in it. Threw a check engine light and started running like crap instantly. Had her take it right to the dealer, was only about 10 mins away. They diagnosed it to be a bad Intake VVT solenoid. But said when they pulled it out they found metal on the screen and stated we needed an engine. It had just over 100k miles on it and she bought it used, non-certified, with around 40k. They stated it wasn't covered under warranty and quoted 7k to put in a USED engine with 60k on it. I told them yeah hell no and towed it home. Took out the solenoid and it only had a few small flakes on it, nothing I'd even worry about. Put in a new solenoid and did an engine oil flush, similar to what we do at our shop for metal in oil. It's been fine for over 20k miles since.
I've always had my doubts about Hyundai/Kia reliability and our dealer experience didn't help. But honestly it's been a great car, this is the only check engine light it's ever had. Just have replaced brakes, plugs, etc, usual maintenance items. It's only had 5w30 once, QSFS, and the top end was actually noisier. Otherwise it's been xW-20 and only uses oil when running PP. Gonna try some 5w30 Valvoline EP in it next though and see how it likes it. I'd like to stick with 5w30 once the Xw-20 stash runs out, she drives it like she stole it.
I've always had my doubts about Hyundai/Kia reliability and our dealer experience didn't help. But honestly it's been a great car, this is the only check engine light it's ever had. Just have replaced brakes, plugs, etc, usual maintenance items. It's only had 5w30 once, QSFS, and the top end was actually noisier. Otherwise it's been xW-20 and only uses oil when running PP. Gonna try some 5w30 Valvoline EP in it next though and see how it likes it. I'd like to stick with 5w30 once the Xw-20 stash runs out, she drives it like she stole it.
I cannot say with certainty but I think that should be a Gamma series engine which have actually had a fairly good track record, relatively speaking compared to other Hyundai engines from that period. The biggest contributor to issues that I have seen with the Gamma engines is that you REALLY need to consistently change the oil every 3000-4000 miles because those engines dump so much carbon soot into the crankcase, even the non-turbo versions too. That stuff can build up in your engine otherwise and lead to serious issues, it can be hard to get cleaned out as well if too much buildup occurs.
I have decided to run Chevron Delo XLE 10W30 HDEO in my Hyundai Gamma engine from now on that is SN PLUS rated. Anything extra that can help keep this engine clean might be the only chance I have to save it long-term after the damage that was done to it prior to my regimen of caretaking.
The valve covers all have varnish on them even with short OCIs. Something about these engines is very hard on the oil.
I believe it had to do with cleanliness during manufacturing.
From KIA for your reference:
Good idea. That oil has 3.5 HTHS and is overall tough as nails. Add a good cleaner like EPR or B12 every once in awhile and clean out the intake every 10-20k. They're good engines but they're filthy.
