5W40 Euro
Filters: OEM, Carquest Premium, Micro Gard Select, STP XL
Filters: OEM, Carquest Premium, Micro Gard Select, STP XL
5W40 Euro
Filters: OEM, Carquest Premium, Micro Gard Select, STP XL
Sorry for delay to reply : The Hyundai oil filter is built very well but the Hyundai oil filter media allows larger size particals to flow through and I believe has more flow restriction versus oil filters such as the Fram Ultra or Fram Endurance . The oil filter section has further information on this topic (i.e. Hyundai / Kia oil filter performance versus Fram Ultra , etc.)How do you figure that about the OEM filter?
How long did it take from the time it went to there garage till you got it back? Still bothersome to me the failure rate of soooo many Kia/Hyundai engines over the years. Bottom line, they might warranty it -- your still out of a vehicle and your time is money.Hyundai was sued over these engines a few years back. As part of the settlement certain 2.4 theta engines have a lifetime warranty for rod bearing issues. Ours started knocking and went into limp mode. Hyundai replaced the long block with a rebuilt unit free of charge at ~144,000 miles. It came complete with most things like water pump and sensors.
It took two weeks. They initially told it would be two weeks just to look at it, but they called a week later and said Hyundai approved the new engine and they just ordered the parts. A week later it was done. I think they are finally getting caught up on the huge backlog of engines. The lawsuit also requires they to provide a vehicle. If there wasn’t the lawsuit we would have been out of luck.How long did it take from the time it went to there garage till you got it back? Still bothersome to me the failure rate of soooo many Kia/Hyundai engines over the years. Bottom line, they might warranty it -- your still out of a vehicle and your time is money.
Glad to hear your turnover time went pretty quick. Hopefully the new engine provides you with multiple years of trouble free service moving forward.It took two weeks. They initially told it would be two weeks just to look at it, but they called a week later and said Hyundai approved the new engine and they just ordered the parts. A week later it was done. I think they are finally getting caught up on the huge backlog of engines. The lawsuit also requires they to provide a vehicle. If there wasn’t the lawsuit we would have been out of luck.
Imo you should be more worried about the engine than the transmission. Ours didn't burn any oil before it seized up at 80-90k miles this summer.I’m going to go against most of the people here . 2016 Sonata Sport , 2.4 L , 139000 miles on original motor and doesn’t burn hardly any oil . Maybe half a quart in 5000 miles . Nothing but Quaker State 5W- 20 and I add 12oz of Prolong Engine treatment.
I’ve been doing the same oil change since I bought it with 3800 miles on it .
I run the car for Sales the last 4 years and it sits outside every day. Lots of stop and go driving and I kind of beat the snot out of it .
I’m more worried about the transmission than the motor. About to do my third drain and fill .
Ours took about 2-3 weeks. Found out they had 3 white sonata's getting new engines that week. Not sure how many vehicles total or total color of sonata's but thought it was wild to learn that.Glad to hear your turnover time went pretty quick. Hopefully the new engine provides you with multiple years of trouble free service moving forward.
It's a Hyundai/Kia, so lowering OCI is a must. 3,500 miles if you are short tripper and 4,000ish+ if drive long distance highway. After a new engine warranty grace period (4,000-8000 miles, so you know it is holding together) I myself would dump the Hyundai filter. When the specs were placed online at Hyundai's own site it had horrible filtering specs. They then pulled it off line, I bet from the kick back of the horrible filtering specs. Don't get sucked into "heavy filter= good filter" because the Hyundai filter is "heavy filter= crap filtration filter" I have been running Fram Ultras and Fram Titanium's for years and have my last run of pink media /screened old style left. I will be going to Fram Endurance as soon as I am thru my stash. On my other family's cars I just us a Fram Ultra/new style and never look back.We just got our Hyundai Sonata back with a new (rebuilt) long block. The car is in great shape with 145,000 miles, and I will be using it to drive ~1,600 -2,000 miles a month, mostly long trips, so I'm thinking about keeping it for a while as a commuter.
My plan is to use Hyundai filter, even though they didn't question the aftermarket filters I used in the past or when I took it in for a blown engine, see post.
So now I have to decide what oil I want to try to keep this one from drinking oil like the old one... I'm thinking 3,500 miles OCI with a 5W30. I ran a lot of Mobil in the last one, but some 6500 OCI.
Mobil EP 5W-30, Mobil ESP 5W-30, Valvoline RP 5W-30, something else?
You also need to take in account Hyundai turbos get hypereutectic pistons that are harder and more robust, and I can only assume the bearings "could" be harder?? NO...... it's a Hyundai, the engineering dept would defer to crappy/subpar soft bearings as default here, I bet. The NA motors get Hyundai's soft piston metallurgy mix that can be a determent to even "grandpa style driving scenario". So going non-turbo doesn't put you into a safety zone with a Hyundai/Kia, it could be the opposite. Proper low OCI are a must for a Hyundai/Kia, I know you know that, but it's for others who go down the Hyundai/Kia pathway.The 2.4s under extended lifetime warranty are of the TGDI variety. Our / any GDI-only in that time-frame are not covered.
Being Intuitive helps me at times. When I shopped Hyundai in October 2018, looking at new 2019 models, I told the salesman not to show me any Turbo-driven Santa Fe vehicles. So I suspect I will get longer engine life with my decision. How much longer before the bearings grenade mileage-wise?....... between 130k and 140k is what I sense.
Will I keep it that long?..... No. These two Hyunkias we currently own will be gone by the end of 2027. My Hyundai will have 70k by then and my wife's Kia about 55k. These-2 vehicles will be the first we've ever sold, premature to old age death. We've always been first and last owners of our vehicles. That will change around September 2027. We will narrow down to only having one vehicle and I suspect we will lease it. I'll be 76 then and no more mechanics, yard work....etc..... will happen beyond that time.
Sorry that's too good to not say something "iMo YoU sHoUlD bE mOrE wOrRiEd AbOuT tHe EnGiNe..."Imo you should be more worried about the engine than the transmission. Ours didn't burn any oil before it seized up at 80-90k miles this summer.
Engine was replaced by Hyundai and I figure it only has to last as long as the first engine did because my wife will be sick of it by then (and it might not have any of its flaking white paint left on it by then).
Good advice from above poster to try and up the odds in your favor . If your winter temps remain above 15 to 20 degrees F then M1 10W30 EP is a good oil with a good add pack for a 3,500 mile OCI and although it has a long drain oil capability - who cares as it’s only $26 per jug at WM so again change the oil at 3,500 mile intervals . Other good oils would be the M1 0W30 ESP and M1 5W30 ESP . Both are Euro oils with higher 3.5 HTHS ratings (good for enhanced bearing protection) and are SP rated for North America usage . No matter , follow a 3,000 to 3,500 mile OCI for mixed driving and use a good oil filter with the 99% 20 micron rating such as the Fram Ultra or Fram Endurance oil filters provide . Additionally , do an oil and oil filter change by 1,000 miles and then follow the 3,000 to 3,500 mile OCI afterwards…My 2017 Hyundai GDI non - turbo has 54,000 miles on it and I follow the above regiment . While there is no guarantee my engine may fail , I at least put the odds in my favor as best I can and my engine has the Hyundai knock sensor software update added from Hyundai , so I am covered for life if the engine fails . Other things you can do to help increase the odds in your favor with a Hyundai / Kia 2.4 (or any other Hyundai / Kia GDI engine) are : 1) Use CRC Intake Valve Cleaner every 12,000 miles , 2) Use TopTier rated gas , 3) Use a bottle of Techron or Gumout Regane Fuel System Cleaner in a full tank of gas run down to a 1/4 tank every other oil change (every 6,000 to 7,000 miles) , 4) Change the Air Filter every 15,000 miles (use Hyundai / Kia OEM air filter in this case for a snug fit so no dirt enters the engine around the edges of a bad air filter seal) … Thats all I got - good luck !It's a Hyundai/Kia, so lowering OCI is a must. 3,500 miles if you are short tripper and 4,000ish+ if drive long distance highway. After a new engine warranty grace period (4,000-8000 miles, so you know it is holding together) I myself would dump the Hyundai filter. When the specs were placed online at Hyundai's own site it had horrible filtering specs. They then pulled it off line, I bet from the kick back of the horrible filtering specs. Don't get sucked into "heavy filter= good filter" because the Hyundai filter is "heavy filter= crap filtration filter" I have been running Fram Ultras and Fram Titanium's for years and have my last run of pink media /screened old style left. I will be going to Fram Endurance as soon as I am thru my stash. On my other family's cars I just us a Fram Ultra/new style and never look back.
As far as oil Valvoline Restore and Protect, that would be my first choice. I suggest to only use 5w-30 in your Hyundai as you stated. I am switching over to that with the family's cars when my stash oils are gone. In fact they are all getting a run of it their next oil change before their stashed oil is gone. Or I might buy 4 bottles of HPL EC to add to the stash oil. Yeh your engine is new, but keep it new. Hyundai/Kia GDI soot up their oil and I feel carbon up their rings far sooner the other branded DGIs. They are just one of the manufactures that is very hard on oil, across their whole car lineup. Or you could wait 12,000-24,000 miles and implement the Restore and Protect.
As soon as I decided what I was going to do with the Santa Fe I purchased, I changed the oil with a Euro 5w-40 and installed genuine Hyundai filter. If I had decided to keep the Santa Fe, a Fram would have been my choice of oil filter.Euro oils with higher 3.5 HTHS ratings (good for enhanced bearing protection) and are SP rated for North America usage . No matter , follow a 3,000 to 3,500 mile OCI for mixed driving and use a good oil filter with the 99% 20 micron rating such as the Fram Ultra or Fram Endurance oil filters provide .
I have a better suggestion-avoid the fragile H/K engines in the first place! Although, Toyota seems to be “learning” from them as well with the turbo V6 Tundra/Sequoia engines… Nothing worse than an engine that’s so fragile it can’t handle manufacturer OLM recommended OCIs!Good advice from above poster to try and up the odds in your favor . If your winter temps remain above 15 to 20 degrees F then M1 10W30 EP is a good oil with a good add pack for a 3,500 mile OCI and although it has a long drain oil capability - who cares as it’s only $26 per jug at WM so again change the oil at 3,500 mile intervals . Other good oils would be the M1 0W30 ESP and M1 5W30 ESP . Both are Euro oils with higher 3.5 HTHS ratings (good for enhanced bearing protection) and are SP rated for North America usage . No matter , follow a 3,000 to 3,500 mile OCI for mixed driving and use a good oil filter with the 99% 20 micron rating such as the Fram Ultra or Fram Endurance oil filters provide . Additionally , do an oil and oil filter change by 1,000 miles and then follow the 3,000 to 3,500 mile OCI afterwards…My 2017 Hyundai GDI non - turbo has 54,000 miles on it and I follow the above regiment . While there is no guarantee my engine may fail , I at least put the odds in my favor as best I can and my engine has the Hyundai knock sensor software update added from Hyundai , so I am covered for life if the engine fails . Other things you can do to help increase the odds in your favor with a Hyundai / Kia 2.4 (or any other Hyundai / Kia GDI engine) are : 1) Use CRC Intake Valve Cleaner every 12,000 miles , 2) Use TopTier rated gas , 3) Use a bottle of Techron or Gumout Regane Fuel System Cleaner in a full tank of gas run down to a 1/4 tank every other oil change (every 6,000 to 7,000 miles) , 4) Change the Air Filter every 15,000 miles (use Hyundai / Kia OEM air filter in this case for a snug fit so no dirt enters the engine around the edges of a bad air filter seal) … Thats all I got - good luck !
We just got our Hyundai Sonata back with a new (rebuilt) long block. The car is in great shape with 145,000 miles, and I will be using it to drive ~1,600 -2,000 miles a month, mostly long trips, so I'm thinking about keeping it for a while as a commuter.
Mobil EP 5W-30, Mobil ESP 5W-30, Valvoline RP 5W-30, something else?
Some people just get really lucky while the vast majority of us with the 2.4L Theta II have oil guzzlers.I’m going to go against most of the people here . 2016 Sonata Sport , 2.4 L , 139000 miles on original motor and doesn’t burn hardly any oil . Maybe half a quart in 5000 miles . Nothing but Quaker State 5W- 20 and I add 12oz of Prolong Engine treatment.
I’ve been doing the same oil change since I bought it with 3800 miles on it .
I run the car for Sales the last 4 years and it sits outside every day. Lots of stop and go driving and I kind of beat the snot out of it .
I’m more worried about the transmission than the motor. About to do my third drain and fill .
**** you had two Hyundais with no oil consumption? What the ass. Now you really just bragging lol (jk)I must have been lucky then. My Tucson didn’t use so much as a drop of oil between 5k intervals. Traded for the Mazda because the Mazda had a turbo (2.5) and I wanted the power.