Hyundai 2.4 oil for replacement engine
- Thread starter shepherm
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Propflux01
$100 Site Donor 2025
I've had Hyundai's for decades. The only one that ever had a problem was my daughter's Sonata which ate an engine. So far 60K on the 'new' one and running strong.
I've had 2.0L, 2.4, 1.8, 2.7, 3.3, 1.6T. None of mine ever gave me an issue, and all went over 100K before either being traded or killed by another driver. Out of all of them, I liked the 3.3L the best. For its time (2006) it was a get-up-and-go. The others (sans the 2.7L and one of the 2.0L)_ were GDI and TGDI engines. I used no prolong, and all of them had 5K OCI using 5w-30.
With Hyundai / Kia GDI engines I agree on the 3,500 mile OCI for mixed driving . I also like time limited OCI’s of 150 hours and / or 6 months OCI on the oil . Re-set trip “B” odometer to zero with a new oil fill and you can track hours on the new oil fill (I re-set trip “A” each time I fill up with gas but leave trip “B” alone). The 6 months / 3,500 OCI can be set in the maintenance dash setting … When ever I hit one of the 3 (hours , months , or miles on the oil fill) is when I change it as the oil is pretty well spent by then . My ‘17 Sonata 2.4L GDI engine can dirty up an oil with soot , fuel dilution and exhaust by products “like it invented the term” as it’s gotta be one of the dirtiest running GDI engines ever made .
I’m not going to sit here and tell you Prolong was the answer but I don’t think it hurt anything.
I own a 2018 Nissan Titan you know the one with the dreaded cylinder 7 that takes a sh..t .
Well it did failed but not until 49.5K which was optimistic for that motor. Most go well before 30 k .
My motor was replaced and I’m keeping the same routine with oil changes . 5K and 12 oz of Prolong .
If things change I’ll report back the truth and let everyone know what failed. On the Hyundai, “Drive them hard after there warmed up!
I own a 2018 Nissan Titan you know the one with the dreaded cylinder 7 that takes a sh..t .
Well it did failed but not until 49.5K which was optimistic for that motor. Most go well before 30 k .
My motor was replaced and I’m keeping the same routine with oil changes . 5K and 12 oz of Prolong .
If things change I’ll report back the truth and let everyone know what failed. On the Hyundai, “Drive them hard after there warmed up!
I've owned Hyundai's since 2008 (a 3.3L V6--nice engine), a 2014 2.0T (awesome engine, still in the family) and our current 2.4L--all three were Santa Fe's. None of them were oil burners. The 2.0T starting using oil during an OCI about a year ago--I changed the PCV and the oil usage stopped. I don't doubt that some people have had issues with these engines, but that hasn't been my experience (so far). I also have never had an engine failure of any kind. I suppose I could just be lucky, but that would be out of the norm for me 
I would continuously use Valvoline 5W-30 Restore and change it every 3,000-3,500 Max miles.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
There should be zero need for VRP in that just recently replaced engine. It's a product intended to remove piston deposits. I'd much rather buy a high wear protection oil for a new engine, than try to remove something / prevent something, that hasn't arrived yet.
Do you bring your newborn child home from the hospital nursery and immediately begin to add Simethicone to the baby girl's Similac baby formula, to prevent Flatulence many years from now?
Valvoline says it's good to use from day one of a new motor. Those motors are well known for ring deposits and using oil from those deposits. Why wait until they're stuck? I would use it as a preventative but you do you. It's not Dexos approved, though but that doesn't matter w/Hyundai-Kia.
With direct injection you want to change it early enough to keep fuel dilution down, so any decent synthetic at reasonable intervals would keep deposits from forming. Don't necessarily need something that was designed around being used for removing existing deposits. It's two different applications. But you do you.
My daughters 2012 Sonata 2.4 GDI (no turbo) was repaired under warranty August of last year no issue.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Sorry , but unless all highway miles it would be better to keep OCI’s at 4K miles max.
Propflux01
$100 Site Donor 2025
Why? Give me proof of how 1000K less on oil that clearly isn't going to be used up, will stop a mechanical (design) issue with the engine itself?
My guess is that it would probably be ok, but I change the oil in my D.I. 2.0 Cadillac XT-4 at 3,500 miles because I get oil cheap on sale at NAPA (0W-20 synthetic store brand) and use AC Delco filters from the Rock at under 5 bucks. It costs give or take $30 for an oil change for me to DIY. If you are paying a shop I can see your point. I really don't think it's a bad design per se, but D.I. on an economy car combined with sometimes poor maintenance = fuel dilution, consumption and problems.
My wife's 2013 Hyundai Sonata 2.4 used to get all city driving, like 5 kilometers to her work, often a couple kilometers at lunch hour and then 5 kilometers home. She was doing 5000km/3k mile oil changes which would take around 9 months. Oil was completely black within a few minutes of running after an oil change and it smelled like gas before hitting 3k. So I convinced her to do it at 3-4 months instead which slowly helped clean it up....
Then we moved to the country so it started getting mainly highway driving and we could go 3-4k miles or 4 months. I didn't really notice the fuel smell anymore. The engine still seized up around 90k miles because it's a Hyundai Theta 2. They inspected it for sludge and covered it under the recall.
Sticking with the same OCI and hoping this engine lasts at least 90k.
I didn't realize those were that bad even with maintenance. I think I would trade it in once they replaced the motor. FWIW my GM products have all been decent but they need oil and transmission service way before the book tells you to do it. The book calls for trans at 45,000 miles and the oil by using the monitor. I've already done the trans at 21,000 miles and the fluid was dark.
TOTAL 5w40 or DELO 5w40 or even Delvac esp 5w40
My personal truck and car are both GM but they're 20 years old and 41 years old. While I've personally done trans fluid at least every 50k miles or less on my vehicles, I've seen some go way longer without maintenance and somehow not blow up, even my truck may not have had any fluid changes before I did it at 200k miles but if it did it was once around or before 100k miles when my boss first bought it. It's made it to 270k miles so far but I change it every 30k to 50k miles since the first time I did it.
Anyone know if there is any reason one of these theta 2 engines would appear to have a bunch of blowby when pulling the oil cap off with the engine running? I just finished an oil change, drained Kirkland 5w30 at 3k miles and it hadn't used any.... however it blows a lot of air out the oil cap. My 270k mile gm ls engine in my truck doesn't do that at all.
check or replace the PCV may be bad
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