Hyundai 2.4 oil for replacement engine
- Thread starter shepherm
- Start date
I've had Hyundai's for decades. The only one that ever had a problem was my daughter's Sonata which ate an engine. So far 60K on the 'new' one and running strong.
I've had 2.0L, 2.4, 1.8, 2.7, 3.3, 1.6T. None of mine ever gave me an issue, and all went over 100K before either being traded or killed by another driver. Out of all of them, I liked the 3.3L the best. For its time (2006) it was a get-up-and-go. The others (sans the 2.7L and one of the 2.0L)_ were GDI and TGDI engines. I used no prolong, and all of them had 5K OCI using 5w-30.
With Hyundai / Kia GDI engines I agree on the 3,500 mile OCI for mixed driving . I also like time limited OCI’s of 150 hours and / or 6 months OCI on the oil . Re-set trip “B” odometer to zero with a new oil fill and you can track hours on the new oil fill (I re-set trip “A” each time I fill up with gas but leave trip “B” alone). The 6 months / 3,500 OCI can be set in the maintenance dash setting … When ever I hit one of the 3 (hours , months , or miles on the oil fill) is when I change it as the oil is pretty well spent by then . My ‘17 Sonata 2.4L GDI engine can dirty up an oil with soot , fuel dilution and exhaust by products “like it invented the term” as it’s gotta be one of the dirtiest running GDI engines ever made .
I’m not going to sit here and tell you Prolong was the answer but I don’t think it hurt anything.
I own a 2018 Nissan Titan you know the one with the dreaded cylinder 7 that takes a sh..t .
Well it did failed but not until 49.5K which was optimistic for that motor. Most go well before 30 k .
My motor was replaced and I’m keeping the same routine with oil changes . 5K and 12 oz of Prolong .
If things change I’ll report back the truth and let everyone know what failed. On the Hyundai, “Drive them hard after there warmed up!
I own a 2018 Nissan Titan you know the one with the dreaded cylinder 7 that takes a sh..t .
Well it did failed but not until 49.5K which was optimistic for that motor. Most go well before 30 k .
My motor was replaced and I’m keeping the same routine with oil changes . 5K and 12 oz of Prolong .
If things change I’ll report back the truth and let everyone know what failed. On the Hyundai, “Drive them hard after there warmed up!
I've owned Hyundai's since 2008 (a 3.3L V6--nice engine), a 2014 2.0T (awesome engine, still in the family) and our current 2.4L--all three were Santa Fe's. None of them were oil burners. The 2.0T starting using oil during an OCI about a year ago--I changed the PCV and the oil usage stopped. I don't doubt that some people have had issues with these engines, but that hasn't been my experience (so far). I also have never had an engine failure of any kind. I suppose I could just be lucky, but that would be out of the norm for me 
I would continuously use Valvoline 5W-30 Restore and change it every 3,000-3,500 Max miles.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
There should be zero need for VRP in that just recently replaced engine. It's a product intended to remove piston deposits. I'd much rather buy a high wear protection oil for a new engine, than try to remove something / prevent something, that hasn't arrived yet.
Do you bring your newborn child home from the hospital nursery and immediately begin to add Simethicone to the baby girl's Similac baby formula, to prevent Flatulence many years from now?
Valvoline says it's good to use from day one of a new motor. Those motors are well known for ring deposits and using oil from those deposits. Why wait until they're stuck? I would use it as a preventative but you do you. It's not Dexos approved, though but that doesn't matter w/Hyundai-Kia.
With direct injection you want to change it early enough to keep fuel dilution down, so any decent synthetic at reasonable intervals would keep deposits from forming. Don't necessarily need something that was designed around being used for removing existing deposits. It's two different applications. But you do you.
My daughters 2012 Sonata 2.4 GDI (no turbo) was repaired under warranty August of last year no issue.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Sorry , but unless all highway miles it would be better to keep OCI’s at 4K miles max.
Why? Give me proof of how 1000K less on oil that clearly isn't going to be used up, will stop a mechanical (design) issue with the engine itself?
