This is what I was trying to say. On an old furnace, the speeds are set by jumpers. Physically. Maybe there are 3. Maybe there are 5. They are not normally touched.I have been reading up on blower speeds and most are saying it should be set to 400 CFM per ton of AC. After looking at my air handler document, I adjusted my speed from high to low and it does make a difference. Most blower speeds are set to high by default. I think you need to be careful in not setting it so low the system freezes up. Do any of you mess with your fan speed setting?
Although the blowers have settings that are quoted in CFM for convenience, it's actually a shaft speed. The correlation between shaft speed and CFM is only valid at a certain level of pressure rise across the unit. At a given shaft speed a higher pressure delta means less flow (pounds mass per minute).This is what I was trying to say. On an old furnace, the speeds are set by jumpers. Physically. Maybe there are 3. Maybe there are 5. They are not normally touched.
On an ECM like our new one, a tech uses a laptop and the blower is variable. But AC is much higher than heat. Maybe double.
Only when the motor is failing does the “I’ll use a $0.79 filter and change it ever 2 weeks” come in to play. This is to keep going. Otherwise heat will short cycle as a normal filter is now restrictive. I don’t know much just what I’ve been told.
Evaporator coils sweat water from cold coil and warmer air blowing across, also drain pan full of water. Residential units will produce many gallons of water a day, which run out condensate drain. A humidifier operates similar, water is added to air with fan blowing.Please explain exactly how that happens.
Evaporator coils sweat water from cold coil and warmer air blowing across, also drain pan full of water. Residential units will produce many gallons of water a day, which run out condensate drain.
I’ve been fortunate in the deep models and always had the fingers.The best part about the glassfloss Z filters is that their deeper models (2" and 4") have cardboard fingers to keep the pleats separated.
Some of the cheaper brands...the pleats collapse together. Effectively the filter area is lost when this hapens.
Are you an HVAC contractor? Do a service or replace evaporator coil and there will be water in pan. You will raise humidity in home by running fan continuously, at least in humid south.The only moisture that gets reintroduced into the room, by the fan running, is that water clinging to the coil that has not dropped off.
Very minimal amount. It is still operating at a net loss.
There is no "increase" in humidity.
The unit without the fan running all the time has the same issue.
Water hanging on the coil still evaporates...not at the same speed, some drops off, still happens.
The unit case and duct work will also start to warm... so that water vapor and that heat gain is added to the room when the unit does start again.
Still a minimal amount.
A fan running all the time does a far better job of controlling the temperature.
Keeps the air from stratifying and eliminates warm spots.
Unless a humidistat has been added, the unit is not set up to control humidity.
Is there enough difference to matter?
I opt for better control.
The drain pan should not be holding water.
Are you an HVAC contractor? Do a service or replace evaporator coil and there will be water in pan. You will raise humidity in home by running fan continuously, at least in humid south.
Where does this extra moisture come from ? I live in Louisiana . Humidity is a way of life around here .Are you an HVAC contractor? Do a service or replace evaporator coil and there will be water in pan. You will raise humidity in home by running fan continuously, at least in humid south.
I've read that it was better to have the fan on only when cooling is called for. The rationale was that if the fan was always on, it would increase humidity as it would blow air across the condensation on the coils. This seems to be supported by data as well
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https://www.americanheat.com/reason-to-not-run-your-ac-fan-during-summer/
If you're running 1" filters, go this route 100% if your intake is deep enough. These will last 6-8 months.I just ordered new filters 3 mins ago. Honeywell MERV 10 14x14x3 and 14x30x3 return filters. Just say no to 1” filters. These have 720 hour (30 days of runtime) on them.
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Wish I could say the same 2 ton condenser just shy of 1800 sq ft no shade trees vinyl siding 9ft ceilings plus tray ceiling in liven and master. 90+ days no cooking with the oven no running the clothes dryer in the day time just watch the temp rise set to 73 will be 75-76 depending on the day. How about those humidity levels. Yeah it’s grossly undersized.
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my hallway and master just have one filter in each return grate. Pic posted are their sizes. That’s interesting the smaller duct inside the main return. I’m not an AC guy but never seen that set up in my time.@factorytuned2012
These are photos of our main airbox intake.
I am wondering if you have a fresh air intake like we have in our house???? If so I was wondering if you disable it if it would help with your system as you no longer will be taking in hot air for the outside, granted its there for a reason and that is air exchange for the stale air in the house IF, IF your house is tightly sealed.
I leave mine active but I am wondering if this might help in your situation.
See photos.
This is the main airbox with a 14x25 filter behind the grill, second photo is grill removed and 14-x25 filter removed
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Below you see a small 6x6 filter in the air box. This filters outside air coming in. A flap opens up and draws in outside air when the system turns on.
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6x6 filter removed. It's actually surprising how dirty that filter gets from the outside air coming in.
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That is the solenoid controlled flap that opens and closes when system turns on and off.
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SIde note, even though it may not be cost effective it might make sense to install an attic fan to cool the attic. Im not a big fan of them (no pun intended) but might make sense for you if a powerful enough one was installed or possibly get the roof joists spray foamed.
i use two. standard green bs filters, that are a dime a dozen, and a yearly change hepa filter near the unit.......looks kind of like an accordianwhat is all your preferences on HVAC/furnace filters?
I was checking out this company out of tx - place called trufilter
they look reputable and solid and also like supporting an American brand especially if they're a small business.
Lowes project source brand is a great price just not sure if they're American made.
Yeah, I never saw it either. Not easy finding 6 x 6 filters but I was successful, a company that makes them, sells them a dozen at a time, so I have a dozen *LOL* I guess its something new now. Is out house really that airtight or a new building code I dont know but the hundreds of homes they are building here get them now. I dont see builders or their contractors putting them in at the extra cost if it wasnt required *LOL*my hallway and master just have one filter in each return grate. Pic posted are their sizes. That’s interesting the smaller duct inside the main return. I’m not an AC guy but never seen that set up in my time.
Wow, because someone just replied to your post I realized I missed this. I like that site that you posted.what is all your preferences on HVAC/furnace filters?
I was checking out this company out of tx - place called trufilter
they look reputable and solid and also like supporting an American brand especially if they're a small business.
Lowes project source brand is a great price just not sure if they're American made.