How long do i have to wait to warm up?

kevm14 · Dec 6, 2004

quote:

Originally posted by labman:
Engines survive a lot of abuse.

This reminds me of a story I've posted (somewhere) before.

When I was in school, a fraternity near my dorm was engaged in what they called a "Car Smash." They take a nearly-junk car and physically beat it up with whatever smashing implements are convenient. Sometimes they get cars that still run. The one near my dorm obtained what looked like a late 80s taurus wagon and it did in fact run. So in an effect to kill the engine, they started it up and floored the gas. 20 minutes later, it was still churning away at high rpm, and the operator had to stop because the CO fumes were starting to make him pass out. That engine was either the "Vulcan" 3.0 V6 or the total POS 3.8L V6. Probably the vulcan. I just remember being amazed that it held the together. They got fed up and just started physically assaulting the engine...

MAJA · Dec 6, 2004

Stuff like that make me cringe, a car lover, tearing up a vehicle that could either be fixed or parted out. Just like that commercial for Quaker state where that obnoxious actor (cant remember his name) grabs a piston and starts grinding away on it, or where he opens the hood of a guys car and starts ripping stuff off and beating stuff with a crowbar. Makes me want to grab that crowbar and beat on him or start ripping stuff out from inside him. And to think, its an Quaker State oil commercial for "car lovers". I have steered clear of GC ever since.

Palut · Dec 6, 2004

quote:

Originally posted by MAJA:
Stuff like that make me cringe, a car lover, tearing up a vehicle that could either be fixed or parted out. Just like that commercial for Quaker state where that obnoxious actor (cant remember his name) grabs a piston and starts grinding away on it, or where he opens the hood of a guys car and starts ripping stuff off and beating stuff with a crowbar. Makes me want to grab that crowbar and beat on him or start ripping stuff out from inside him. And to think, its an Quaker State oil commercial for "car lovers". I have steered clear of GC ever since.

Tim Leary right? I hate that guy, he's so arrogant. At least he is in every role I've ever seen him play.

Patman · Dec 6, 2004

quote:

Originally posted by MAJA:
Stuff like that make me cringe, a car lover, tearing up a vehicle that could either be fixed or parted out. Just like that commercial for Quaker state where that obnoxious actor (cant remember his name) grabs a piston and starts grinding away on it, or where he opens the hood of a guys car and starts ripping stuff off and beating stuff with a crowbar. Makes me want to grab that crowbar and beat on him or start ripping stuff out from inside him. And to think, its an Quaker State oil commercial for "car lovers". I have steered clear of GC ever since.

Why would you steer clear of GC (which is Castrol) because of a commercial made by Quaker State?

Audi Junkie · Dec 6, 2004

40F Idle 6 minutes
-30F Idle 5 minutes
-20F Idle 4 minutes
-10F Idle 3 minutes
0F Idle 2 minutes
10F Idle 1 minute
20F Idle 30 seconds
30F Idle 20 seconds
40F+ Idle 10 seconds

Makes good sense considering the car will take longer to warm to operating temp if the begining temp is lower. Those numbers seem spot-on.

I hate popping my auto trans into gear while the engine is still on high idle, so I wait for it to come down.

-10f is the lowest temp I see although teens and single digits prevail for nearly a month at a time. I still am not gonna use a block heater, it would be nice though.

A remote-start would be nice for my woman who leaves for work before I do. My cheap substitute is a nice electric space heater on her car floor plugged into a timer. 10 minutes before she leaves the thing kicks on and makes it a bit better for her.

I have heated seats.

Patman · Dec 6, 2004

quote:

I hate popping my auto trans into gear while the engine is still on high idle, so I wait for it to come down.

You just reminded me of something. When we first bought our 2000 Civic and I used to drive it to work when I worked midnight shift at a different company, I would need to idle the car for a minute or two on extremely cold mornings. This was because it would clunk very badly when I put it into gear. If I let it idle until the rpm came down a tick, then it wouldn't do it. So that was the one exception to my rule.

But now the Civic gets the garage overnight, so it doesn't need to be idled.

TallPaul · Dec 6, 2004

quote:

Originally posted by Audi Junkie:
-10f is the lowest temp I see although teens and single digits prevail for nearly a month at a time. I still am not gonna use a block heater, it would be nice though.

The oil pan heating pads are great. I have been running mine even when it only gets down to 40F at night, though it's really nice on those zero F nights. Cheap and easy to install.

labman · Dec 6, 2004

Part of why I haven't owned an automatic since 1981.

2005tundra2002yz250f · Dec 6, 2004

Ok, for those who are saying not to drive fast or at high speeds when first starting out, explain this. If I get on the highway and accelerate slowly up to 65mph, my truck is only running at 2000rpm. Where is the harm in that. I would think this would be ok until the truck warms up, right? I didnt think it was the speed you went, it was the rpm's you were running at when cold. No?
Joe

Audi Junkie · Dec 7, 2004

I guess a good tip for extreme cold is to leave the vehicle pointing in the direction you need to travel away so you don't have to switch between R and D. Even seems good for manuals too.

TallPaul · Dec 7, 2004

quote:

Originally posted by 2005tundra2002yz250f:
...I didnt think it was the speed you went, it was the rpm's you were running at when cold. No?

Good point, but I think there is an issue with load. So I get on the freeway with a cold engine and am reluctant to go into overdrive as it will load up the engine more, but if I stay in 4th gear I will have to turn ~2500 rpm to go 70 (I know that is not much but it is for the Ford 300 straight six cold IMO). So it is a balance of not over revving the engine and not loading it up too much. Therefore a gentle drive along back roads or surface streets is better. When it is very cold out I like to tool along the service drive at 30 mph and ~1700 rpm in 3rd as opposed to going the 35 limit in 4th at ~1300 rpm and risk lugging a cold engine.

kevm14 · Dec 7, 2004

quote:

Originally posted by Palut:
Tim Leary right? I hate that guy, he's so arrogant. At least he is in every role I've ever seen him play.

Close. Dennis Leary. His role in that commercial is right inline with his personality as a comedian.

Cyprs · Dec 7, 2004

I agree with Tall Paul, I will push the OD button to off, keep rpm down as I warm up my Dodge Cummins diesel on the Highway. Lower gear with moderate rpm means less load and strain cold.

Cyprs

GreenHornet · Dec 15, 2004

quote:

Originally posted by kreigle:
What year 900 is this? is this one of the "New Generation" 900s?

I only ask because the only 900s I am familiar with are the "Classic" 900s (1979-199?) with the ingine on top of the transmission and the oilpan actually the space between the engine and trans.

The converter on these cars in under the car approximately between the front seats. They warm up pretty quickly, however. Probably because the transmission case actually insulates the motor oil from the outside air.

I've always just started up, let idle long enough to clean snow/ice of windows (if necessary), or else long enough for idle speed to settle down, and start off.

The SAABs (1969 96 V4, 1978 99, 1979 900) always seemed to warm up fairly quickly. My current '91 Honda Prelude takes about 3-5 minutes before the temp gauge gets up to Normal.

My wife also just starts up her '01 Civic and drives within less than a min of idling, and actually gets up to temp in < 2 minutes of driving! [/QB]

My car is a 1996 NG900. This issue was relayed to me at a Saab enthusiast's website (and we all know how much dis-information these wbesites can perpetuate.)

It sounded good to me, though. Now I'm going to ask my mechanic the next time he services my car.

dustyjoe1 · Dec 15, 2004

15 seconds minimum, then don't do any racing in the first mile or so of driving. The key is to let the oil pressure stabilize to something or so I understand. You don't want it to idle too long either. I've seen people let their car warm up for 20 minutes in cold PA mornings. This is not good for it either. Use your butt meter to fine tune.

drifter420 · Dec 15, 2004

quote:

Allison recommends a "preheat" on their HD transmissions if the temp is colder than -15 F. That means leaving the transmission in N for 10-15 minutes with the motor running. [/QB]

Quick question.. I can't leave my car in neutral without having to leave my keys in the car overnight.. and if something happens.. insurance won't cover it cause they will claim that I left my keys in the car. If I switch it to neutral during warm ups.. that means I will still have to go pass reverse which the car will engage right away. Would leaving it in park not work?

kreigle · Dec 15, 2004

quote:

Originally posted by GreenHornet:
My car is a 1996 NG900. This issue was relayed to me at a Saab enthusiast's website (and we all know how much dis-information these wbesites can perpetuate.)

It sounded good to me, though. Now I'm going to ask my mechanic the next time he services my car. [/QB]

I didn't know anything about the NG900, but according to the parts diagram here:
Saab 900 94-98 Exhaust parts

it does look like your converter would be near the oilpan. Probably explains why my wife's Civic warms up so fast too, as her converter is part of the exhaust manifold.

rcy · Dec 16, 2004

quote:

Originally posted by Cyprs:
I agree with Tall Paul, I will push the OD button to off, keep rpm down as I warm up my Dodge Cummins diesel on the Highway. Lower gear with moderate rpm means less load and strain cold.

Cyprs

I'm guessing you're talking about an automatic since you mention an OD button. Don't most modern automatics NOT engage the OD anyway until the tranny is at a certain temperature. I know my '88 and '92 Maxima and my '99 Grand Caravan all did (and do) it. Haven't had my '00 Beetle through a winter yet to see if it does the same. Also, to keep the RPM down, wouldn't you want the OD to engage which would give you lower RPM's?

TallPaul · Dec 16, 2004

quote:

Originally posted by rcy:
I'm guessing you're talking about an automatic since you mention an OD button.

Mine is a 1990 Ford E350 motorhome with an E4OD automatic tranny. The E4OD has an electronic overdrive cutout button. I know of someone who had that tranny in a 1995 F150 with the cutout button. Don't know if the newer trucks have it though.

Bear · Dec 16, 2004

In my area (western NY) not only do we have to deal with the cold but ice and snow on the vehicles as well. My method -
1. Turn key and wait till warning buzzers stop before actully turning the engine over. I read that the battery will "warm up" slightly w/ a load on it and turn over better. This will help marginal batteries more so then good ones, but still a good idea.
2. Have defroster on high( rear window also -if equipted)). Brush and scrap windows, lights etc.
3. With brake on , engage drive or reverse and wait 15-20 seconds before slowly driving off.

So I'd estimate idle time is anywhere from 2 to 10 mins.

How long do i have to wait to warm up?

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