How long do i have to wait to warm up?

[mzugg]

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Originally posted by kev99sl:
... drain all of the oil out of your engine, let the car sit overnight with the drain plug out, and then start it up the next morning and drive it gently as you did the day before, again listening carefully to your engine for about a minute. Does it really sound the same as it did the day before?

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Maybe not for a full minute, but for about the first 15-30 seconds, my engines used to sound like the pistons were changing holes when started at -40 or better with 5w30 (1990's dino formulations).

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I don't think "lack of oil flow" is that big of a problem in the cold.

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Then where does that noise come from?

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If it was that much of a problem, I'm not sure you could even turn the engine over.

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Yup, been there before. Melted a starter when I didn't realize that the block heater cord wasn't making contact at -44. Solenoid relay welded shut, while the engine turned at about 10 rpm, and by the time I could retrieve a wrench to disconnect the battery, all the smoke had been let out of the starter.

I think the right answer is it depends. Under the conditions that 99% of Americans encounter 99% of the time, a 15 second warm up is more than adequate when combined with gentle driving. However, when pushing the limits of your lubricants, I think it makes sense to warm things SOME with as little load on the bearings as possible. I would wager that it takes as much power to move a COLD vehicle down the road at 30 mph as it does to move a fully warm vehicle at 60. I've seen vehicles at the end of a tow chain sliding all 4 wheels in the snow from the drag of the cold drivetrain. In that case, I think A LITTLE idling becomes the lesser of the evils.

 

[mzugg]

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Quick question.. I can't leave my car in neutral without having to leave my keys in the car overnight.. Would leaving it in park not work?

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On all automatics I am aware of, Park simply engages a locking pawl on the output to prevent the vehicle from moving. In all other respects, park and neutral are equivalent, so yes, park will work the same.

If you have a 4X4 with N in the transfer case, you can leave it in N overnight (make sure it doesn't roll away), then warm up the engine, trans and TC by putting the trans in gear during warm up. This works great for manual transmissions that can be a bear to shift when cold.

 

[Audi Junkie]

For super-cold starts, how about draining the oil for overnight and keeping it inside next to the fireplace to pour back in next morning?

 

[deviant]

Easy solution, Alarm with remote start so you don't even have to walk outside until the car is warmed up and ready to roll. Automatic timer for the Alarm is usually available. The APS-996A from Prestige does have that feature and is very useful, not only that you can show off with it too!

 

[Lumberg]

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Yup, been there before. Melted a starter when I didn't realize that the block heater cord wasn't making contact at -44. Solenoid relay welded shut, while the engine turned at about 10 rpm, and by the time I could retrieve a wrench to disconnect the battery, all the smoke had been let out of the starter.

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I've seen that term used by overclockers in regards to CPUs. I still think it's hilarious. I think I've "let the smoke out" of many an electrical appliance in my day.

 

[INDYMAC]

Sometimes the answer can be found in your owners manual. Engine warm-up appears to be different for each engine manufacturer. Toyota says my 2000 Tundra is ready to drive after 10 seconds. Honda says my 2004 S2000 is ready to drive after about a minute. I forget what Infinity says about the G35, but it really doesn't matter because my wife drives that car (my advice is neither desired nor required!). I just make sure it has synthetic oil!