Hot climate ?w-

[noclutch]

Originally Posted by BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted by noclutch
No I was referring to thinner oils getting through small critical orifices with more ease than thicker oils at start up.

But might that start up low viscosity oil not heat quickly enough*

For example an 0w-20 when say the engine is still early to mid cycle of warming and no where near operational, has it in thickenedtoo much? Dunno if that makes sense. Need to chew on this. LOL

Again back to that cST@40 line if thinking. Or 20,40,60,80

I "THINK" I know which direction you're going here. Doesn't the engine have to be at optimal operating temperature for the 20 weight to be at its peak efficiency? I too need to chew on this.

Yes direction, despite my typos. Sorry. LOL
Peak or sufficient protection despite not fully operational temp.

 

[Snagglefoot]

Here is a fun test to try out if you have a real pressure gage on your dash. With fresh 0w20, and with a cold engine and a record of the ambient temperature, start your car and see how many seconds it takes for your gage to get to full pressure. This is assuming your gage is taking the pressure somewhere from the engine head. The oil is being pumped by your oil pump, through the oil filter, through the oil galleries in the block and up to the head and past your oil pressure location. Also some is exiting at the main bearings on its way up to the pressure gage.

When it's time to change the oil and filter, use a 5w20 or 5w30 and the same make and model of oil filter. Start the engine to make sure the filter is filled. Then, with the engine cold and at the same temp as the very first test. Start your engine and measure the time again to get pressure at the gage.

Report back.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted by noclutch
Peak or sufficient protection despite not fully operational temp.

How are you defining "protection"? if it is oil film thickness in the bearing then that would be better during startup. You're looking for a minimum oil film thickness at operating temperature (not too thin), so from that standpoint "protection" gets worse as the oil gets warmer (although other things come into play during warmup).

 

[noclutch]

Snagglefoot- real gauges would be great!! "Feel good" dummy gauges is what mine have save for the tranny temps. Except my 1981 Jag which has a real engine oil pressure PSI gauge, and it's fun to watch indeed! ( PSI plummeting when going from sustained speed to idle LOL. But it recovers)
But yes that would be enlightening experiment for sure.


ksc- so in a nutshell, the cSt @210f is more engine design dictated than anything, save for CAFE/mpg?
Hence the above mentioned old Jag getting 20w50.


Typo correction from above should have said "un thickened" ie thinned but not too much with warming.

Speaking of which- which would be worse.
Putting 0w-16 in the Jag, or 20w-50 in a new spec Toyota?? Just pondering out loud.



Thanks again guys ðŸ‘ðŸ»

 

[Bryanccfshr]

Per Shannow's recommendation, I have two boxes of these going in rotation,

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Havoline...-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-6-qt/221698736

Good deal.

 

[blupupher]

Originally Posted by gfh77665
Originally Posted by blupupher
What problem exactly are you trying to fix?

0w-20 has been shown to not be a problem in the hottest of climates. 5w-20 works fine also.


0w-20 and 5w-20 are not a "problem". No one is claiming the OP's engine will blow up.

0w-20 and 5w-20 are not necessarily "optimal" either in FL.

5w-30 is a perfect choice.

Care to explain? Define optimal.
There are hundreds of UOA's of 0w-20 and 5w-20 in hot climates in a variety of motors with no issues. Millions of miles on these weights with no issues.
What would 5w-30 do that 0w-20 will not?

Again, this is all referring to a regular daily driver

 

[noclutch]

Thanks for chiming in from Katy! Loved living there 1989-1991 after A&M, and before Florida. I miss Texas so much....born and raised there more or less.

Anyways, regarding "problem", there really isn't one. The engine runs great though does seems a bit "tickety", and it's not valve noise. Just kinda noisier at idle than I'd think most Hondas should be- had many, thought none prior were DI. I haven't done a UOA yet but will about 7k miles from now with my last fill of Valvoline synthetic 0w-20.
Will admit though,and showing my age, that 20 just seems skinny.... not that I'm opposed to that combo necessarily- it's legal but maybe more expensive than at first blush. LOL

 

[PimTac]

Originally Posted by noclutch
Thanks for chiming in from Katy! Loved living there 1989-1991 after A&M, and before Florida. I miss Texas so much....born and raised there more or less.

Anyways, regarding "problem", there really isn't one. The engine runs great though does seems a bit "tickety", and it's not valve noise. Just kinda noisier at idle than I'd think most Hondas should be- had many, thought none prior were DI. I haven't done a UOA yet but will about 7k miles from now with my last fill of Valvoline synthetic 0w-20.
Will admit though,and showing my age, that 20 just seems skinny.... not that I'm opposed to that combo necessarily- it's legal but maybe more expensive than at first blush. LOL




Is this a GDI motor? I'm thinking it is and they are by nature a little noisier. That's the high pressure injection pump. I'm wondering as well if this engine has cylinder deactivation?

There is nothing wrong with running a 0w20 as Honda specifies.

 

[PimTac]

Just some more thoughts;

I am a older person who started changing oil when SAE30 was the standard, then 10w40 and progressing to 5w30. I now run 0w20 in the Mazda with no worries.

Times change and so do cars and engines.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted by PimTac
Is this a GDI motor? I'm thinking it is and they are by nature a little noisier. That's the high pressure injection pump. I'm wondering as well if this engine has cylinder deactivation?

There is nothing wrong with running a 0w20 as Honda specifies.


DI usually means some more fuel dilution than non-DI, so another good reason to run a xW-30 IMO.

 

[OilUzer]

op,
imho, the only thing good about 0Wx20 is the 0W part and the need for a good base oil ...
The 20 part ruins a good thing! if you like 0, use 0Wx30 or 40.

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

Originally Posted by OilUzer
op,
imho, the only thing good about 0Wx20 is the 0W part and the need for a good base oil ...
The 20 part ruins a good thing! if you like 0, use 0Wx30 or 40.

Is there much difference between a 0W20 and a 0W30?

 

[alarmguy]

Originally Posted by noclutch
I live in central Florida. Temps range 25* F at its very worst once a decade, and max mid 90's every summer.

My '15 Acura 3.5l V6 calls for 0w-20.

Do I really need to use 0w- just in case it were to dip to MINUS freaking 22F or whatever, as if? LOL
Or for any other reasons?



Answer to both of your questions: NO

You do not need a 0/20 or 5/20 oil in southern states.
Using 5w30 is fine and to me far, far more preferable.

Believe it or not our summers here in SC are hotter then yours but our winters far colder.
The only oil we use in any vehicle is 5/30 for the last over 12 years since moving here.

Your choice, both oils are fine 0/20 or 5/30.
The only reason automakers no longer "tailor" oil recommendations for different climates is for fuel mileage, they know the lightest weight oil will provide good protection for most uses.

To me, that means, if using a 0/20 in a cooler climate (Northern USA), then I think I am far better off using a 5/30 in the Southern USA as the oil temperatures will always run warmer in the SOUTH.

 

[SilverFusion2010]

I'm running a "thick" 10w-30. M1 HM. I live around Tallahassee.

I prefer to try to stay on the hydrodynamic side of the curve instead of relying on additives for boundary lubrication. Does it work? /shrug. 190k and running strong FWIW

 

[gfh77665]

Originally Posted by blupupher

Care to explain? Define optimal.


Sure, no problem. An optimal viscosity is one most appropriate for use in the climate the vehicle is primarily driven in.

0w-20 and the like are optimal for cold climates.

 

[ofelas]

I tend to do the same; your sentence summed it up nicely.

Originally Posted by SilverFusion2010
I prefer to try to stay on the hydrodynamic side of the curve instead of relying on additives for boundary lubrication.