Hot climate ?w-

[noclutch]

I live in central Florida. Temps range 25* F at its very worst once a decade, and max mid 90's every summer.

My '15 Acura 3.5l V6 calls for 0w-20.

Do I really need to use 0w- just in case it were to dip to MINUS freaking 22F or whatever, as if? LOL
Or for any other reasons?

In other words, do the 0w- flow characteristics at say an occasional frost day of 35F really differ that much from say a 5w-30 or 10w-30?

Guess what I'm seeing or saying is it seems manufacturers throw out blanket CAFE numbers and do little to no regional changes in recommended weights.

 

[maxdustington]

Originally Posted by noclutch
Guess what I'm seeing or saying is it seems manufacturers throw out blanket EPA numbers and do little to no regional changes in recommended weights.
BITOG tradition is to ignore the manual completely. You can also refer to a manual from a hot part of the world, your hypothesis would be proven true if you did that.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Acura probably specs that 0W-20 for the whole country to 1) make it easy and less confusing, and 2) to ensure the whole country uses that oil out of concerns for CAFE.

If it was mine and in Florida I'd put 5W-30 in it with no worries.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

5W30, 0W40, they will all be fine. I've run at least 2 OCI in the 06 Odyssey I had with Pennzoil Euro 0W40 and had great results both times... there was a slight hit to economy but the engine was extremely quiet and smooth. I would say if you have some way to check the oil temp, let that be your guide on the hottest days you drive. If the oil temp is above 212*F, go with 5W30. If its above 230*F, get an oil cooler.

 

[kstanf150]

Run 5-20 in the cooler months which wouldn't be a lot for you and run 5-30 in the hot summer weather and you'll be just fine
Don't over think it to much ðŸ‘ðŸ‘

 

[NormanBuntz]

Here in Central Florida (The Villages-Leesburg) it rarely gets below 35 degrees. I did my first OC on the used '13 Accord 2.4L in February using 5w-20 synthetic. Engine absolutely idles quieter with the 5w-20 vs. the previous 0w-20. For next years OC I'll use Supergard 5w-30 syn blend because it only sees 4K miles per year (winter), and I won't lose any sleep over it.

Also, I used 5w-30 for years in a 1996 RL and a 1998 TL with zero issues in PA, VA and NC in much colder temps.

 

[kstanf150]

If I were you guys I'd probably just run a 5W-30 or 0W-30 year round and just forget about it
I live in middle to north Georgia area
5W-30 works well here

 

[Dinoburner]

Owners manuals usually spec out various temp ranges or at least they use to. I`m really suprised that anyone could measure a mileage difference between 0 and 5 w oil, but then.

 

[y_p_w]

They give a blanket recommendation but almost never say what the justification is for the choice of said recommendation. However, it's pretty well known that 0W-20 provides slightly better fuel economy than 5W-20. In addition to that, they could be specifying the OLM settings with a "synthetic" or at least semi-synthetic standard for the oil. I remember when Toyota started using 0W-20 they said it was OK to use 5W-20 provided that the OCI was halved from 10k miles to 5k miles. Probably ignored the possibility of using a "synthetic" 5W-20. Also - the Honda VCM system seems to have issues with sludge that didn't seem to be an issue when 0W-20 became the recommended oil, or if something like Mobil 1 was used.

I'm guessing you could probably use a 0W-30 or a 5W-30 without issue. However, I don't see why not just stick with the manufacturer's recommendations. The most important thing in hot climates isn't the oil but the cooling system. Honda V6s don't typically have oil coolers standard, do they?

 

[tiger862]

I would use 5w20. I live in south Louisiana so temps are about the same. Family has Kia right at 200k only seen 5w20 conventional with not a problem with oil and I run 5w20 in a Grand Caravan. I don't sweat the oil grade of 5w20 as it has been proven around here. Don't see many engine failures due to 5w20.

 

[dave1251]

Originally Posted by noclutch
I live in central Florida. Temps range 25* F at its very worst once a decade, and max mid 90's every summer.

My '15 Acura 3.5l V6 calls for 0w-20.

Do I really need to use 0w- just in case it were to dip to MINUS freaking 22F or whatever, as if? LOL
Or for any other reasons?

In other words, do the 0w- flow characteristics at say an occasional frost day of 35F really differ that much from say a 5w-30 or 10w-30?

Guess what I'm seeing or saying is it seems manufacturers throw out blanket CAFE numbers and do little to no regional changes in recommended weights.



The question is how well the engine is manufactured and designed not the grade of oil Mobil 1 Ran A Chevy Silverado For 500k Miles To Test Its New - GM Authority
GM Authority › blog › 2017/12.

 

[blupupher]

What problem exactly are you trying to fix?

0w-20 has been shown to not be a problem in the hottest of climates. 5w-20 works fine also.
Sure there has been an engine here and there that has issues, but that is true of all oil weights.

I have no issue running 0w-20 in any motor spec'ed for 0w-20 or 5w-20 in Houston, just as hot, or hotter, than Florida.
Ford V8. Yup.
Toyota 4 cylinder. No problem.
Hyundai 4 cylinder. Sure thing.
Dodge V6. Worked fine.

Unless you are out racing it or thrashing on it all the time, 0w-20 will not be an issue.

 

[PimTac]

Confirmation bias is a strong force.

 

[Rolla07]

0w20 will work fine in Florida. Whats the worry?

 

[Rolla07]

0w20 will work fine in Florida. Whats the worry?

 

[OilUzer]

Use 10Wx30 or 0Wx30

I think in general 0Wx oils are forced to have a better base oil than 10W. Whereas 10W's can be made with a more inferior base oil. this is something I am still researching (not a high priority on my list) and haven't come to a definite conclusion ... However 10W's should have a better Noack and less VM.

I use M1 EP 10Wx30 for the summer and PP 5Wx30 (winter) in one car and both have been great. Thinking about using PP Euro L? 10Wx30 instead of regular PP if available or PP Euro 5Wx30 if Euro doesn't come in 10W.

 

[demarpaint]

I'd probably run a 5W30 or 10W30 synthetic oil and be done with it. Both will work fine.

 

[ChemLabNL]

Maybe noclutch is asking about physical reality and not "what's in the manual" or "CAFE".
Of course you can use a straight SAE 30.
Consider SN rated Pennzoil SAE 30 conventional, if you choose.

 

[Shannow]

Basically the same engine in outboard motor spec calls for a 10W30 with an after shear HTHS of 3.2.

You aren't driving it anywhere near that hard, but the 10W part of the equation still stands...

Amsoil ACD is a 10W30/SAE30 with an HTHS of 3.6...that's pretty un-necessary for your gig, and any straight SAE30 will have 3.4 HTHS plus.

20W20 will be HTHS 2.9, but be dino...Redline's 20 grade offerings are similar.

So a 10W-30 Resource Conserving oil would be my pick...but they are semi synths typically, at least in Oz.

 

[noclutch]

Good stuff guys and thanks!
Yea I have at times been a dump what the filler cap says on it in kinda guy, until I started reading and thinking about it LOL

Per above- "Also - the Honda VCM system seems to have issues with sludge that didn't seem to be an issue when 0W-20 became the recommended oil, or if something like Mobil 1 was used" That's an interesting engine specific consideration. Fortunately, I'm using a VCM Muzzler so maybe a moot point consideration for me. But noted that Honda maybe chose 0w for this reason in addition to CAFE.

But the engine does seem to be a bit noisier than I would expect, though nothing scary sounding or malfunctioning in any way. Has 40k on it.

Looking like I might be streamlining my oil stock to 5w-30 for everything in my little fleet though they're all over the map engine wise!
( '15 3.5 Acura, '18 3.5 ecoboost F150, '07 5.4 triton Expo, '09 5.3 LY5 ? Chevy)

Hate running to the garage and finding the "wrong" oil sitting there for the change of the day!