Honda Factory Fill - BUSTED
- Thread starter Cicero
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How would ARX help that any more than plain old oil keeping garbage in suspension until it gets captured by the filter?
Don't get me wrong-I like ARX and have had good success with it in the past. I just don't see it making any difference if there are actual debris left over from the original build.
Is sand still an issue when using a lost-foam casting process?
That sounds like an OSHA violation to me.
That sounds like an OSHA violation to me.
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Geez BlueWorld... Yet another heart-breaking tale of a Honda dying at such a young age. When I lived in Germany my friend had a Honda Accord with about 450K miles on it. He had to pound it down the Autobaun daily just to keep the poor thing alive... Sad really.
JohnBrowning: My college roomates father work at the Tanawanda assembly plant and he spoke proudly of 2 things:
How the UAW managed to stop GM from installing automation equipment and saving UAW jobs.
How the all knew better than the Engineers on how to assemble things.
I bet watching a GM car being assembled is a lot like watching Jimmy Dean make sausage.
How the UAW managed to stop GM from installing automation equipment and saving UAW jobs.
How the all knew better than the Engineers on how to assemble things.
I bet watching a GM car being assembled is a lot like watching Jimmy Dean make sausage.
I would suggest the Honda assembly line would make the Audi one look primitive. Probably only second to Toyota in the world for quality.
Yeah, and those ________ GM 3800V6 engines, like the one with 180,000 miles on it, and used maybe a .5-quart of oil on a 5000OCI, that I had to donate away because the car was smashed up around it...
And BTW, GM's reliability record beats Audi and many Euro manufacturers, and Honda transmissions suck!
(flame suit --on!)
Cheers
And BTW, GM's reliability record beats Audi and many Euro manufacturers, and Honda transmissions suck!
(flame suit --on!)Cheers
[What is the implication here?] I have no idea what your asking, Pablo.
He was 65 or so. No tag, etc. I didn't ask his name, I wasn't the only one in the crowd talking to him and at one point I had to leave because the wife was calling me into the paper signing room.
No doubt you didn't get much from my post, Pablo. Your the oil expert. I'm not. And YOUR contribution to my origianl thread about breaking-in an SI, etc. was what??? Did you give me the same information the guy did? No, but you could have. I don't remember any clear concensus on honda factory fill on BITOG either. You know this is a debated question. It's may be obvious to you and some here, not to guys like me. I guess that's my problem, not yours.
BTW, this was the funniest advice I did get, and there was lots of other good things there, SO PLEASE EVERYONE WHO ADDDED A HELPFUL POST THERE I THANKYOU TOO...but I'm going to post this again anyway. It cracked me up but good. Hope you enjoy it.
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Internetoilologist rule #409-AB3 clearly states:
Rid all new engines of the factory fill as soon as humanly possible. UNLESS the new vehicle is a HONDA. Then you must retain the factory fill for the full recommended OCI.
Reports of health issues and bouts of "bad luck" have accompanied those who violate this noble tenent of oilology law. One owner of a Honda did this and a tsunami destroyed the fishing village that was nearby within 24 hours. Coincidence? Maybe ...but can you take the risk??
Now I know what you're thinking.
Was that 10k ..or only 9k? Well in all the confusion of driving a new Honda, the most reliable and covetted value car of the decade, you may have lost count. You've got to ask yourself ...do you feel lucky??
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Good advice, but criptically funny. OK. I said I wasn't quick witted.
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OIL RECOMMENDED BY HONDA
THE Si uses 5W30 but the manual states 10W30 if it never gets below 20F.
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I'll probably use either M1 5W30, Castrol GTX 5W30, or maybe get with the Havoline crowd. I'm not sure how the Oil minder would work with synthetic and it might be just as good to use conventional oil. I'm still searching.
BTW...the search engine doesn't work as good as it used to. Tons of multi posts all on the same thread. Maybe I'm doing something wrong...I try again.
As far as beating a dead horse goes...not all of us live here everyday I bet, and a lot of people come and go and are not everyday regulars. Have a little compassion for those less aware and well read here then some of you.
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Finally what the blazes is the baby boomer stuff about? I don't get it. It has what to do with oil?
I'll read further now and see what else is here.
I hope you are right cause I have one in a 1988 Delta 88 that has about 95,000 miles on it!
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The baby-boomers will go down in history as those who didn't teach their offspring how to think critically.
All the critical information is given, yet they arrive at the wrong conclusion.
Could you please explain this answer to me? Besides my spelling error what does your post mean in plain talk? What critical imformation? What in the quote are you talking about? Thinking critically...is that like writing clearly?
Say what you mean and mean what you say, please. The criptic stuff goes over my head.
I really don't get your comment at all. Seriously and without hostility I mean it makes no sense to me.
5W30 with a 10W30 option if used above 20F. OIL CAP says 5W30. I live in HIGH DRY heat area, dusty at times...rarely below freezing, but it happens afew days a year.
Your SO right.
It wasn't much different from what I sorted through, but honestly there isn't a little "GAUGE" that shows which guys here know and which guys here are echos and ...well, me...often confused about which advice to take seriously, etc...
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LONG incredible story. ...Nothing incredible or even new there. You could have just searched BITOG and learned the same thing.
Thank you for your thoughtful help.
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As far as searching goes...The search engine on the new BITOG doesn't work very well for me. Anybody else have that problem? You can get 200 responses, all having to do with the same four of five threads. Search 2006 or 2007 Honda Civic Si and see what you get....Civic Si maybe... see the problem?
Incredible. I thought GM and Ford had recovererd from the 70's-80's and were becoming more like the overseas competition.
BTW, the Tonawanda Plant doesn't seem all that "dirty" to me.
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Quote:
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LONG incredible story. ...Nothing incredible or even new there. You could have just searched BITOG and learned the same thing.
Thank you for your thoughtful help.
---------------------------
As far as searching goes...The search engine on the new BITOG doesn't work very well for me. Anybody else have that problem? You can get 200 responses, all having to do with the same four of five threads. Search 2006 or 2007 Honda Civic Si and see what you get....Civic Si maybe... see the problem?
Make sure you are only searching one forum at a time, not the whole site.
And if were mine, I'd use Mobil1 5W-30 in the winter, then go 10W-30 the rest of the year and max out your OCI.
Thank you, Nickdfresh. I'll try that and 10W30 sounds good for the summers here.
Acura service news August 2006
At TQI, does the factory-fill engine oil look less
like Texas Tea and more like Oklahoma Crude?
Don’t worry, there’s nothing wrong with the
engine. The engine oil looks that way because of
molybdenum (that’s “moly” for short), a special
lubricant applied by the factory to critical engine
components during assembly.
When the engine is test-run, that molybdenum
mixes with the engine oil, turning it a dark
metallic color often within the first 5 minutes of
running. And just how dark that engine oil gets
seems to vary between vehicle models, engine
types, and engine assembly plants.
What’s really important to remember here is this:
Don’t change the factory-fill engine oil because it
looks dark; just make sure it’s at the right fluid
level. To ensure proper engine break-in, the
factory-fill engine oil needs to remain in the
engine until the first scheduled maintenance
interval.
What part of this bulletin are you having a hard time comprehending?
JB, I'm glad to see someone else with real world knowledge of this situation.
At TQI, does the factory-fill engine oil look less
like Texas Tea and more like Oklahoma Crude?
Don’t worry, there’s nothing wrong with the
engine. The engine oil looks that way because of
molybdenum (that’s “moly” for short), a special
lubricant applied by the factory to critical engine
components during assembly.
When the engine is test-run, that molybdenum
mixes with the engine oil, turning it a dark
metallic color often within the first 5 minutes of
running. And just how dark that engine oil gets
seems to vary between vehicle models, engine
types, and engine assembly plants.
What’s really important to remember here is this:
Don’t change the factory-fill engine oil because it
looks dark; just make sure it’s at the right fluid
level. To ensure proper engine break-in, the
factory-fill engine oil needs to remain in the
engine until the first scheduled maintenance
interval.
What part of this bulletin are you having a hard time comprehending?
JB, I'm glad to see someone else with real world knowledge of this situation.
This thread busts nothing.
People working for dealers DO NOT work for Honda and DO NOT always give good advice. They have their opinions just like we do.
Here are copy/pasted statements direct from Honda's Owners Link for my 2.4 iVTEC's about oil and break in.
Why should I wait to change the oil the first time?
Your Honda engine was delivered with an oil that is specially formulated for new engines that have not yet developed their "natural" wear patterns and may contain minute particles from the manufacturing process.
American Honda strongly recommends this special oil be left in the engine long enough for these wear patterns to develop, usually until the first maintenance interval specified in your Owner's Manual, based on your specific driving conditions.
What is the break-in period of my Honda?
Help assure your vehicle's future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you drive during the first 600 miles (1,000 kilometers). During this period:
Avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration.
Avoid hard braking. New brakes need to be broken in by moderate use for the first 200 miles (300 km).
People working for dealers DO NOT work for Honda and DO NOT always give good advice. They have their opinions just like we do.
Here are copy/pasted statements direct from Honda's Owners Link for my 2.4 iVTEC's about oil and break in.
Why should I wait to change the oil the first time?
Your Honda engine was delivered with an oil that is specially formulated for new engines that have not yet developed their "natural" wear patterns and may contain minute particles from the manufacturing process.
American Honda strongly recommends this special oil be left in the engine long enough for these wear patterns to develop, usually until the first maintenance interval specified in your Owner's Manual, based on your specific driving conditions.
What is the break-in period of my Honda?
Help assure your vehicle's future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you drive during the first 600 miles (1,000 kilometers). During this period:
Avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration.
Avoid hard braking. New brakes need to be broken in by moderate use for the first 200 miles (300 km).
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