Honda 1.5T fuel dilution and OCI's

My Ford 2.0L non turbo D.I. is doing this too. fuel mileage is down to 21mpg ave.
Engine sounds like it is going to throw a rod, and has constant TC "grinding" noise. I was going to change the oil yet again pull a sample and run a UOA. I don't know if I should go to the dealer first as last time I was there fo a safety and emissions inspection they blew me off. I have had to change the oil at 2k miles twice in the past year. First was Valvoline Advanced 5W20 now it has Edge 5W20.
I don't know why I'm using syn. Might was well run a 10W30 QS.
Just decided I'll call the service manager and skip the usual waste of time with service writers. Now my CARFUTZ service history will get a red flag and I can't unload the junker if I get no satisfaction - that is my número uno concern
I have a FoST with the 2.0L turbo and I have none of these problems. And I drive it like it's stolen. I do 5k OCIs with whatever is on sale: M1 EP 5w-30, M1 0w-40, PUP 5w-30, Castrol Edge 5w-30 LL, whatever is cheaper at the given moment. The only complaint I have is with the direct injectors diesel-like sound.
 
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I now have 3,900 miles on my 2022 and still have no dilution. Im hoping it stays that way but I’m really enjoying the car either way. This vehicle sees mostly city driving as opposed to my 2013 that I commute on the highway back and forth to work.
 
I now have 3,900 miles on my 2022 and still have no dilution. Im hoping it stays that way but I’m really enjoying the car either way. This vehicle sees mostly city driving as opposed to my 2013 that I commute on the highway back and forth to work.
Have you done a oil test yet?
 
Have you done a oil test yet?
Of course not. I’m simply stating this information based off the fact my oil level has not increased on the dipstick which has been the general consensus on “measuring” dilution. I am not here to give any recommendations on how someone should maintain their vehicle just simply stating my experience thus far.
 
Of course not. I’m simply stating this information based off the fact my oil level has not increased on the dipstick which has been the general consensus on “measuring” dilution. I am not here to give any recommendations on how someone should maintain their vehicle just simply stating my experience thus far.
Careful with that. Dilution can be masked by a balance between oil consumption and fuel ingress.
 
Of course not. I’m simply stating this information based off the fact my oil level has not increased on the dipstick which has been the general consensus on “measuring” dilution. I am not here to give any recommendations on how someone should maintain their vehicle just simply stating my experience thus far.
Obviously my comment came off wrong. I was sincerely asking if you had done a test yet if you had changed the oil. With a 2-4% dilution that has been reported, I'm not sure you would see that on the dip stick. In any case, hope you continue to see no movements up the dipstick.
 
Which oil testing place has the most accurate way to do the % fuel? I heard blackstone isn't accurate.
 
Careful with that. Dilution can be masked by a balance between oil consumption and fuel ingress.
I don't believe I have consumption issues, just dilution and some thinning below grade. Been chasing around to find a solution, considered changing to either M1 0W-30 AFE or M1 5W-30 EP to get closer to a 5K OCI. Have been using Mobil1 0W-20 EP in my CRV. Also have found those who reccomend staying with the Honda-specified 0W-20 rather than going "thicker", and just lowering my expectations to around 4k. Been a Mobil1 customer for a lot of years, fully aware that there's no "magic" 0W-20. Is it worth giving Castrol Edge EP 0W-20 a try? Most likely a decision for a coin toss? or just say screw it and try the 5W-30? I've read and researched myself beyond frustration, and, oh yes, I worry too much. Been used to 5k intervals with no issues or problems and good UOA's, resigned myself to the fact that ain't happening with our CRV'S, just looking for options and direction.
 
I don't believe I have consumption issues, just dilution and some thinning below grade. Been chasing around to find a solution, considered changing to either M1 0W-30 AFE or M1 5W-30 EP to get closer to a 5K OCI. Have been using Mobil1 0W-20 EP in my CRV. Also have found those who reccomend staying with the Honda-specified 0W-20 rather than going "thicker", and just lowering my expectations to around 4k. Been a Mobil1 customer for a lot of years, fully aware that there's no "magic" 0W-20. Is it worth giving Castrol Edge EP 0W-20 a try? Most likely a decision for a coin toss? or just say screw it and try the 5W-30? I've read and researched myself beyond frustration, and, oh yes, I worry too much. Been used to 5k intervals with no issues or problems and good UOA's, resigned myself to the fact that ain't happening with our CRV'S, just looking for options and direction.
Why not? If you have the patience then there's nothing to lose (but time). That would give you one last data point in the 0W20 category and help make the decision of whether or not to jump to 30 grade easier.
 
Purchased a 2017 CRV with 36k miles this weekend. Excellent condition great maintenance records.

After reading all this, I think for the sake of ease. I will use two quarts of M1 5w30 and two quarts of M1 0w20 change at 5k intervals using a Purolator 14610 for 2x changes and use the top sider on the first change to vac out the sump. It will be a commuter car it should rack up miles very quickly, about 25-30k a year.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?
 
Purchased a 2017 CRV with 36k miles this weekend. Excellent condition great maintenance records.

After reading all this, I think for the sake of ease. I will use two quarts of M1 5w30 and two quarts of M1 0w20 change at 5k intervals using a Purolator 14610 for 2x changes and use the top sider on the first change to vac out the sump. It will be a commuter car it should rack up miles very quickly, about 25-30k a year.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?
Just use the 5W-30. No real point in mixing. Better, just use 0W-30. It's THE BEST viscosity for these engines.
 
I don't believe I have consumption issues, just dilution and some thinning below grade. Been chasing around to find a solution, considered changing to either M1 0W-30 AFE or M1 5W-30 EP to get closer to a 5K OCI. Have been using Mobil1 0W-20 EP in my CRV. Also have found those who reccomend staying with the Honda-specified 0W-20 rather than going "thicker", and just lowering my expectations to around 4k. Been a Mobil1 customer for a lot of years, fully aware that there's no "magic" 0W-20. Is it worth giving Castrol Edge EP 0W-20 a try? Most likely a decision for a coin toss? or just say screw it and try the 5W-30? I've read and researched myself beyond frustration, and, oh yes, I worry too much. Been used to 5k intervals with no issues or problems and good UOA's, resigned myself to the fact that ain't happening with our CRV'S, just looking for options and direction.
I'm just pointing out that consumption can be masked by dilution, and dilution can be masked by consumption. Oil brand is not going to have any impact, but I agree, it seems a waste changing an oil capable of longer drains at such a short interval.

Stepping up to an xW-30 seems like the most logical course of action.
 
Just use the 5W-30. No real point in mixing. Better, just use 0W-30. It's THE BEST viscosity for these engines.
I was thinking about that as well. I'll have to see If it makes any difference with mileage. I doubt it will, I have a 43 mile commute with 37 of it on the highway. 5 days a week.
 
I'm just pointing out that consumption can be masked by dilution, and dilution can be masked by consumption. Oil brand is not going to have any impact, but I agree, it seems a waste changing an oil capable of longer drains at such a short interval.

Stepping up to an xW-30 seems like the most logical course of action.
Thanks for the input, had mostly resolved to go with that, only thing attracting me to the EP 5W-30 was it's Honda HTO-06 approval, cost difference is only $2 for 5 quarts. Both the 0w-30 AFE and the 5W-30 EP are Dexos 1 gen2.
 
Thanks for the input, had mostly resolved to go with that, only thing attracting me to the EP 5W-30 was it's Honda HTO-06 approval, cost difference is only $2 for 5 quarts. Both the 0w-30 AFE and the 5W-30 EP are Dexos 1 gen2.
After a conversation this morning with my Honda dealership's service advisor, they've literally advised me to go to a -30 oil to counter the dilution issue. I have the following options available to me locally:
Mobil1 0W-30 AFE
Mobil1 5W-30 Full Synthetic (Honda HTO-06 approval)
Mobil1 5W-30 EP (Honda HTO-06 approval)
Castrol Edge 5W-30 EP (Honda approved)
Castrol Edge 5W-30 (Honda approved)
All are API SF and GF-6 and are all $37-39 for 5 quarts bundled with a Mobil1 M110A filter.
Is it "flip a coin time" or is there some consensus on a choice based on base stocks or additive package? At the temperatures here in Central Pennsylvania the 0W-5W is a non-issue.
 
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After a conversation this morning with my Honda dealership's service advisor, they've literally advised me to go to a -30 oil to counter the dilution issue. I have the following options available to me locally:
Mobil1 0W-30 AFE
Mobil1 5W-30 Full Synthetic (Honda HTO-06 approval)
Mobil1 5W-30 EP (Honda HTO-06 approval)
Castrol Edge 5W-30 EP (Honda approved)
Castrol Edge 5W-30 (Honda approved)
All are API SF and GF-6 and are all $37-39 for 5 quarts bundled with a Mobil1 M110A filter.
Is it "flip a coin time" or is there some consensus on a choice based on base stocks or additive package? At the temperatures here in Central Pennsylvania the 0W-5W is a non-issue.
I'm a fan of the M1 EP products, but at the OCI's you'll be running, it likely isn't beneficial. That said, if you can get it at the same price as the others? I'd run it.
 
I'm a fan of the M1 EP products, but at the OCI's you'll be running, it likely isn't beneficial. That said, if you can get it at the same price as the others? I'd run it.
Having been a sorta Mobil1 fanboy for many years, and with a comparable cost for the EP, that was my inclination. In the 30+ years I've been running M1 products, I've never had a lubrication related problem. Thanks for the input
 
Have you done a oil test yet?

He doesn't likely have an indication of a need for an oil analysis for fuel dilution.

1. After a long run at full oil temp pull over and smell dipstick.
2. If strong fuel odor is present do blotter test to see if the fuel is significant.
3. If you have fuel indicated in the blotter test, drain and send sample for analysis.

If either of the first two are negative running an oil analysis with a proper fuel dilution test is a waste of time and resources.
 
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