Honda 1.5T fuel dilution and OCI's

It's not the Turbo. It's the Direct Injection. Good luck finding non-DI new cars.

We need to make a list of non-DI cars left :D

Hyundai recently switched back to port injection on some of their cars
The lame-duck Spark is still port
Honda's own HR-V still uses a non-DI (SOHC) R18
Most of Nissan's cars are still port injection too (they still make the Maxima with the VQ35DE)

Toyota uses dual injection which reduces the DI problems
 
We need to make a list of non-DI cars left :D

Hyundai recently switched back to port injection on some of their cars
The lame-duck Spark is still port
Honda's own HR-V still uses a non-DI (SOHC) R18
Most of Nissan's cars are still port injection too (they still make the Maxima with the VQ35DE)

Toyota uses dual injection which reduces the DI problems
Pentastar and HEMI are still port injected.
 
We need to make a list of non-DI cars left :D

Hyundai recently switched back to port injection on some of their cars
The lame-duck Spark is still port
Honda's own HR-V still uses a non-DI (SOHC) R18
Most of Nissan's cars are still port injection too (they still make the Maxima with the VQ35DE)

Toyota uses dual injection which reduces the DI problems

I think most if not all F150. I'm not sure about the base 3.3L.. it could be Dual or just Direct.
 
Just over a year ago we bought our first Honda for my wife, a 2020 CR-V Touring. We like it a lot. Mostly short trips and no easy way to alter that.

I had the first oil change done at 1,000 miles (no break-in oil in Hondas, I'm told), refilled with whatever 0W-20 full synthetic the dealer uses.
Just had the next change done and sent a sample to Blackstone, a copy of the report is attached. (I didn't know how to tell the actual percentage left in the oil, just had it changed when the car gave me the message. Figured it out now)

Anyway, wear metals are good but I'm not happy that the viscosity is below spec with just a "trace" of fuel dilution. We have a 2017 Corvette with DI, the fuel dilution reading is
It looks like my choices are:
1. Follow the car messages and hope for the best.
2. See if there is some Honda update/mod to reduce the oil dilution.
3. Waste money and resources to change the oil at 50% life remaining, that would be only about 2,000 miles between changes.
4. Switch to 0W-30 and see if the viscosity numbers improve.
Or some combination of those.

Suggestions?
CR-V Blackstone.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I will never own another Honda thanks to them forcing over-boosted turbo engines down peoples throats. Tiny guppy engines....to save mpg. Screw that. Moving over to Toyota or Mazda for the next car. Both have higher reliability ratings than Honda. My brother has a 2018 accord that he has been following the recommended OCI, he is not changing to 5k.
You can purchase whatever you want, they aren’t forcing anybody to buy their product. There are plenty if manufacturers using boosted “tiny guppy engines” with good success. VW has been doing it for decades.
 
Just over a year ago we bought our first Honda for my wife, a 2020 CR-V Touring. We like it a lot. Mostly short trips and no easy way to alter that.

I had the first oil change done at 1,000 miles (no break-in oil in Hondas, I'm told), refilled with whatever 0W-20 full synthetic the dealer uses.
Just had the next change done and sent a sample to Blackstone, a copy of the report is attached. (I didn't know how to tell the actual percentage left in the oil, just had it changed when the car gave me the message. Figured it out now)

Anyway, wear metals are good but I'm not happy that the viscosity is below spec with just a "trace" of fuel dilution. We have a 2017 Corvette with DI, the fuel dilution reading is
It looks like my choices are:
1. Follow the car messages and hope for the best.
2. See if there is some Honda update/mod to reduce the oil dilution.
3. Waste money and resources to change the oil at 50% life remaining, that would be only about 2,000 miles between changes.
4. Switch to 0W-30 and see if the viscosity numbers improve.
Or some combination of those.

Suggestions?View attachment 89622

Just over a year ago we bought our first Honda for my wife, a 2020 CR-V Touring. We like it a lot. Mostly short trips and no easy way to alter that.

I had the first oil change done at 1,000 miles (no break-in oil in Hondas, I'm told), refilled with whatever 0W-20 full synthetic the dealer uses.
Just had the next change done and sent a sample to Blackstone, a copy of the report is attached. (I didn't know how to tell the actual percentage left in the oil, just had it changed when the car gave me the message. Figured it out now)

Anyway, wear metals are good but I'm not happy that the viscosity is below spec with just a "trace" of fuel dilution. We have a 2017 Corvette with DI, the fuel dilution reading is
It looks like my choices are:
1. Follow the car messages and hope for the best.
2. See if there is some Honda update/mod to reduce the oil dilution.
3. Waste money and resources to change the oil at 50% life remaining, that would be only about 2,000 miles between changes.
4. Switch to 0W-30 and see if the viscosity numbers improve.
Or some combination of those.

Suggestions?View attachment 89622
We have 2 2020 CRV'S, my wife's with 2300 miles, operated much as yours short trips, grocery getting, etc, with occasional highway miles, on Mobil1 0W-20 EP her Blackstone report showed similar thinning out-of-grade and had 3.5% dilution. Mine, with the same oil with much more highway miles after a 4300 mile OCI, was also thinned below grade and had 2.5% dilution. After a lot of advice here on the forum and discussions with my dealer's service manager and my Honda Master Certified Technician, have come to the conclusion, given the propensity of these engines to be very hard on oil, suggested a switch to a 0W-30 or 5W-30. I'll do another UOA after 3000 miles and see what it looks like. Most likely will use Mobil1 5W-30 EP as it rarely gets below zero here in Central Pennsylvania and it's easier to find than 0W-30. Obviously Honda's MM is an algorithm which, as far as oil life I'm going to ignore. With these 1.5t's, and using 0W-20, I don't believe a 5k OCI is, long term, going to be prudent as far as engine life. Incidentally, my MM was indicating 50% oil life remaining at 4300 miles with 2.5% dilution and thinned below grade. I'm hopeful that with the 5W-30 I can get back to 4-5k intervals. Sincerely believe there is no magical 0W-20, these engines need a 30 weight based oil unless you're not planning to keep your CRV for long or are willing to do OCI's at 2500 miles. I'm sure others will chime in on this, but I'm going to 5W-30.
 
You can purchase whatever you want, they aren’t forcing anybody to buy their product. There are plenty if manufacturers using boosted “tiny guppy engines” with good success. VW has been doing it for decades.
I don't know if I would use VW as an example of success at anything...have you seen their reliability standings? But you are correct, I can spend my money where as see fit.
 
I don't know if I would use VW as an example of success at anything...have you seen their reliability standings? But you are correct, I can spend my money where as see fit.
If maintained they can be quite reliable. Plenty of happy VW owners out there.
 
I just shake my head at how to chase a few tenth's of an MPG maufactures recommend thin as piss 0W-20! With direct injection dilution this is borderline evil.
 
I just shake my head at how to chase a few tenth's of an MPG maufactures recommend thin as piss 0W-20! With direct injection dilution this is borderline evil.
Save a few drops of gas, but reduce long term reliability and service life of the engine....makes complete sense from a carbon foot print standpoint. Because building engines and parts are carbon neutral so its ok to have shorter service life to save a few drops of gas.
 
We have 2 2020 CRV'S, my wife's with 2300 miles, operated much as yours short trips, grocery getting, etc, with occasional highway miles, on Mobil1 0W-20 EP her Blackstone report showed similar thinning out-of-grade and had 3.5% dilution. Mine, with the same oil with much more highway miles after a 4300 mile OCI, was also thinned below grade and had 2.5% dilution. After a lot of advice here on the forum and discussions with my dealer's service manager and my Honda Master Certified Technician, have come to the conclusion, given the propensity of these engines to be very hard on oil, suggested a switch to a 0W-30 or 5W-30. I'll do another UOA after 3000 miles and see what it looks like. Most likely will use Mobil1 5W-30 EP as it rarely gets below zero here in Central Pennsylvania and it's easier to find than 0W-30. Obviously Honda's MM is an algorithm which, as far as oil life I'm going to ignore. With these 1.5t's, and using 0W-20, I don't believe a 5k OCI is, long term, going to be prudent as far as engine life. Incidentally, my MM was indicating 50% oil life remaining at 4300 miles with 2.5% dilution and thinned below grade. I'm hopeful that with the 5W-30 I can get back to 4-5k intervals. Sincerely believe there is no magical 0W-20, these engines need a 30 weight based oil unless you're not planning to keep your CRV for long or are willing to do OCI's at 2500 miles. I'm sure others will chime in on this, but I'm going to 5W-30.
Are you saying that the Honda dealer recommended 30 grade oil?

Doing some digging in oil spec sheets, you can focus more on advertised viscosity and less on the advertised grade on the front of the bottle. If there's a target viscosity that you are comfortable with, you can probably find it. For example, there are thin 5W30s that are barely above the 20 grade max:
Castrol Edge KVM 10.0
Castrol Edge HM KVM 9.9
Pennzoil Platinum KVM 9.8

And thick 20 grade oils:
Mobil 1 AFE KVM 8.8
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum KVM 8.8
Castrol Edge EP KVM 8.7
Mobil 1 EP KVM 8.6
 
Are you saying that the Honda dealer recommended 30 grade oil?

Doing some digging in oil spec sheets, you can focus more on advertised viscosity and less on the advertised grade on the front of the bottle. If there's a target viscosity that you are comfortable with, you can probably find it. For example, there are thin 5W30s that are barely above the 20 grade max:
Castrol Edge KVM 10.0
Castrol Edge HM KVM 9.9
Pennzoil Platinum KVM 9.8

And thick 20 grade oils:
Mobil 1 AFE KVM 8.8
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum KVM 8.8
Castrol Edge EP KVM 8.7
Mobil 1 EP KVM 8.6
Have tried both Mobil1 0W-20 AFE and EP, with similar results in my (now with 20k)
CRV. Ran the 0W-20 AFE in my 1.5t Civics with good results and excellent UOA's. Dealer is seeing a lot of CRV's coming in with oil levels high on the dipstick and smelling like fuel. We discussed this situation and reviewed the "fixes" that Honda had done to remediate this issue and they suggested either short OCI's or trying a 0W-30 or 5W-30 oil. 0W-20 works well in some engines, apparently not so well in some CRV's.
 
Are you saying that the Honda dealer recommended 30 grade oil?

Doing some digging in oil spec sheets, you can focus more on advertised viscosity and less on the advertised grade on the front of the bottle. If there's a target viscosity that you are comfortable with, you can probably find it. For example, there are thin 5W30s that are barely above the 20 grade max:
Castrol Edge KVM 10.0
Castrol Edge HM KVM 9.9
Pennzoil Platinum KVM 9.8

And thick 20 grade oils:
Mobil 1 AFE KVM 8.8
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum KVM 8.8
Castrol Edge EP KVM 8.7
Mobil 1 EP KVM 8.6
Good list. Add Redline 0w20 with a KVM of 9.1. My brother has the same engine in his car and I'm going to suggest he switch.
 
Have tried both Mobil1 0W-20 AFE and EP, with similar results in my (now with 20k)
CRV. Ran the 0W-20 AFE in my 1.5t Civics with good results and excellent UOA's. Dealer is seeing a lot of CRV's coming in with oil levels high on the dipstick and smelling like fuel. We discussed this situation and reviewed the "fixes" that Honda had done to remediate this issue and they suggested either short OCI's or trying a 0W-30 or 5W-30 oil. 0W-20 works well in some engines, apparently not so well in some CRV's.
No concern going with 30 weight? I'm surprised the dealer would recommend something outside of what Honda is recommending.
 
Good list. Add Redline 0w20 with a KVM of 9.1. My brother has the same engine in his car and I'm going to suggest he switch.
There are a few more options if you consider 5W20:
Mobil 1 EP 9.0
Castrol Edge EP 8.9
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 8.8

And if you want to go with something closer to 11 KVM:
Mobil 1 5W30: 11.1
Castrol Edge EP 5W30: 10.8
Valvoline EP 5W30: 10.7
 
Last edited:
There are a few more options if you consider 5W20:
Mobil 1 EP 9.0
Castrol Edge EP 8.9
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 8.8

And if you want to go with something closer to 11 KVM:
Mobil 1 5W30: 11.1
Castrol Edge EP 5W30: 10.8
Valvoline EP 5W30: 10.7
Also considering the Castrol Edge EP 5W-30 as well as the Mobil1 EP 5W-30 as they both carry the Honda HTO-06 approval. I'm currently running Mobil1 5W-20 EP and will do a UOA at 3K miles. I'm not expecting miracles.
These small-displacement DI Turbocharged engines are trying to satisfy too many check boxes: adequate power, low emissions (EPA) higher fuel mileage (CAFE) and drivability. The DI and the turbocharger (pressurized intake) combined with low tension piston rings and specifying a low viscosity oil (lower friction) create a perfect storm for OD. Interestingly, in other countries, Honda specifies other ( higher viscosity) oil options. Can't help but think that CAFE is the primary motivation for the 0W-20 spec in this country. The CRV 1.5t typically runs very cool, and Honda's attempts to force it to heat up quickly (software/firmware and the variable radiator shutters, combined with a low viscosity oil, haven't been particularly successful. Typical use, short trips, grocery-getting, etc don't get the oil consistently hot enough to evaporate the fuel thus the problem. Trying to use cabin heat or defrost when the engine is not fully warmed up causes the heater core to act as an additional radiator and inhibits the engine from achieving proper operating temperature, the temperature gauge will actually drop when this happens. This is all essentially Honda trying to manipulate physics. I'm reasonably sure that other manufacturers with similar engines are having the same issues, just not as publicized.
 
Has anyone heard of dilution reduction by using 0/16 oil? I saw a 'Scotty' episode where he touted 0/16 as the solution.
He's on crack, no oil is going to have any sort if impact on the engine's tendency to dilute the oil with fuel, which is the result of programming and engine design. It's a low displacement engine that's difficult to get warm and is exclusively direct injected (no port injected low speed operation or warm-up). This makes it inherently more likely to be operating in a mode where excess fuel is used due to operating temperature (warm-up) and at engine speeds where DI is sub-optimal, which results in more of that fuel making its way onto the bores and down past the piston rings into the oil. DI operates best under high speed and load with an engine that's nice and hot. Port injection is superior at low load and low speed operation, providing a much more homogenous A/F mixture that doesn't wash down the walls. This is why many marques are now going with hybrid injection, which, while more complex, allows them to avoid the pitfalls of DI while also being able to exploit its strengths.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top