Honda 1.5T fuel dilution and OCI's

I will never own another Honda thanks to them forcing over-boosted turbo engines down peoples throats. Tiny guppy engines....to save mpg. Screw that. Moving over to Toyota or Mazda for the next car. Both have higher reliability ratings than Honda. My brother has a 2018 accord that he has been following the recommended OCI, he is not changing to 5k.
 
Considering the original article says the compression ratio is “3”, the bore is “0” and the oil capacity is 5L, I kinda wonder how much it should be trusted.
 
Bought a new '16 Civic Coupe Touring in '16 ..nice car, ditched the 0/20 for 0/40 shortly after it left the lot..up here in the cold dilution is obvious and drives the fluid level over the full mark so we siphon off 1.5 quart then add a new 1 quart as needed (maybe three times Nov-April) been using Castrol's Edge for the lower Ca..Son has the car now couple years and kept up that routine, 80k running strong.
 
Bought a new '16 Civic Coupe Touring in '16 ..nice car, ditched the 0/20 for 0/40 shortly after it left the lot..up here in the cold dilution is obvious and drives the fluid level over the full mark so we siphon off 1.5 quart then add a new 1 quart as needed (maybe three times Nov-April) been using Castrol's Edge for the lower Ca..Son has the car now couple years and kept up that routine, 80k running strong.
How do you siphon off?
 
Bought a new '16 Civic Coupe Touring in '16 ..nice car, ditched the 0/20 for 0/40 shortly after it left the lot..up here in the cold dilution is obvious and drives the fluid level over the full mark so we siphon off 1.5 quart then add a new 1 quart as needed (maybe three times Nov-April) been using Castrol's Edge for the lower Ca..Son has the car now couple years and kept up that routine, 80k running strong.
What made you choose 0w40 over 0w20?
I'm considering thicker as well (5w30), since the 0w20 shears too much (especially when diluted with gasoline).
My choice is based on availability and price...also most older Honda engines were spec'd for that viscosity.
 
What made you choose 0w40 over 0w20?
I'm considering thicker as well (5w30), since the 0w20 shears too much (especially when diluted with gasoline).
My choice is based on availability and price...also most older Honda engines were spec'd for that viscosity.
Well you must remember that companies always go with these thinner oils for fuel economy. I am not expert, or professional, only going by strictly what i've heard is you can lose MPG by going thicker. I mean having an engine that lasts a lot longer is far more valuable.

However the only thing is it depends on you, if you do your own oil changes all my older generation hondas all get 3000 mi oils changes. I have a 04 with the k24. Just want the insides to stay pretty and that by far will increase the longevity.

I see some comments on here, not sure what the issue is with a 5000 mile oil change. All my other vehicles are not having any dilution issues, however my goal is always to have a crystal clean engine. By this I mean the oil comes out virtually the same color as what it went in and not black at all. Some people will have oil that turns black within 500 miles of driving. If that's the issue you just start to flush your engine with new oil, if I buy a car that's used I will do like 4 or 5 oil changes within a 2000 mile driving range until the oil comes out very clean. If at that point it doesn't I will keep flushing. Doesn't sound very cost effective or reasonable. However I am not asking you to use the best oil or your oil of choice which might be pricey. You can get penzoil platinum 5 quart jugs for less than 25 with tax here in the US, not understanding why spending even a 150 dollars to accomplish this is an issue.

Then maybe hit one after those at 3000 see how it looks then 4000, so on until it's coming out the way it came in. Have never had any issues with new vehicles I purchase with no mileage maintaining clean oil, as mentioned this is strictly for used vehicles when god knows what the previous owner may or may not have done.

I know some people like to use engine cleaners/performance improvers etc, honestly have never had any issues with this process even though it's far more costly than just using an engine cleaner. If you want you can combine both.
 
right, MityVac but more than that the tube wont fit so went to a good hardware store found a brass pipe that fit inside the tube then flattened it to mimic the elongated dip stick tip that gets you in all the way, then oil needs to be hot for a good draw....

IMG_1153.JPG
IMG_1151.JPG
IMG_1158.JPG
 
then I had a Blackstone UOA at 40k/8,800k on the 0/40 fill using the method above

Alum 8
Chrom 1
Iron 31
cop 3
TBN 4.5

Blackstone rec extending the OCI to 10k ...lol

IMG_0958.JPG
 
Last edited:
I’m sick of Honda and some people who think this is not an issue. I live in southern Alabama and I had just over 10% fuel on oil then after the “fix” it’s over 13%. You can’t tell me that doesn’t mess the car up.
what was the fix? I'm a life long Honda guy. I bought my last Honda in 2013 and I don't plan on another. The only non-turbo cars they have are the hybrids and low trim Civic. As long as people keep buying the cars, they will keep producing the turbos. My next car will be a Toyota or Mazda. Both have lots of options for non-turbo engines.
 
My Ford 2.0L non turbo D.I. is doing this too. fuel mileage is down to 21mpg ave.
Engine sounds like it is going to throw a rod, and has constant TC "grinding" noise. I was going to change the oil yet again pull a sample and run a UOA. I don't know if I should go to the dealer first as last time I was there fo a safety and emissions inspection they blew me off. I have had to change the oil at 2k miles twice in the past year. First was Valvoline Advanced 5W20 now it has Edge 5W20.
I don't know why I'm using syn. Might was well run a 10W30 QS.
Just decided I'll call the service manager and skip the usual waste of time with service writers. Now my CARFUTZ service history will get a red flag and I can't unload the junker if I get no satisfaction - that is my número uno concern
 
Last edited:
what was the fix? I'm a life long Honda guy. I bought my last Honda in 2013 and I don't plan on another. The only non-turbo cars they have are the hybrids and low trim Civic. As long as people keep buying the cars, they will keep producing the turbos. My next car will be a Toyota or Mazda. Both have lots of options for non-turbo engines.
It's not the Turbo. It's the Direct Injection. Good luck finding non-DI new cars.
 
Much appreciated.
I have a 2016 Civic. So far, it's been an ok car. Certainly not the reputation of the 80s and 90s cars.
🤷‍♂️
I have a 2016 Civic Coupe and I can't even say its an ok car. Worst one of the cars a have right now.
Road noise is terrible.
Body panels thin as a pop can and misaligned.
Third tail light cover melted of the rear window twice. Dealership finally got it to stick and is crooked.
Has a terrible rattling from the transmission on hot restarts that Dealership could never reproduce even though I caught it on cell phone video several times. Here is a video of the exact same noise.

Has random no start that has left my daughter stranded three times while away at college. No resolution it just eventually starts. Dealership sold my daughter a 9 dollar key fob battery first time it happened.
Here is the exact thing that happens with hers.


And of course oil diluting that knows no end.
 
Last edited:
Use 0W-30 and see what happens. Not saying I don't think our 2017 CRV won't or hasn't fuel diluted, nor do I deny you guys are seeing massive fuel dilution and other issues. I am just saying we have not caught or CRV in the act.
Fuel leaking into the oil doesn’t have to do with the weight of oil. Friends 2017 CRV has the same issue. His made me check mine. Got 2 tests sent off.
 
Fuel leaking into the oil doesn’t have to do with the weight of oil. Friends 2017 CRV has the same issue. His made me check mine. Got 2 tests sent off.
Yes and no.

A bit higher viscosity oil resists fuel entry at the rings and the valve seals.

A bit higher viscosity also deals with the FUEL a bit better, holds at a low SAE 30 viscosity, and while hot allows the fuel to evaporate off again without a severe viscosity drop.

The fundamental problem is not solved but your engine will last longer.
 
Last edited:
As many have discussed previously, the Honda 1.5T suffers from fuel dilution.
Also, owners have started complaining of early VTC failures and timing chain components failing (which are also symptoms of oil degration).
Further information on this is available on many CRV forms where owners have had these items replaced prematurely (out of pocket for those without extended warranty).
Common symptom of the CVT failure is a loud rattle noise when started in cold weather (usually lasts about 3-5 seconds).
When left unattended, this slowly causes the timing chain to stretch and with worn out chain guides, the engine goes so far out of time that the pistons eventually collide with the valves.

The problems (as I see it) are a few issues combined:
1. Oil sump is too small (3.3-3.5 liters)
2. OCI's are too long
3. Fuel dilution from the direct injection system pushing fuel past the low tension piston rings

In the following link, the author suggests changing the oil more frequently.
https://www.davidaltmejd.com/honda-1-5-turbo-engine-problems/

My question is this, if someone were to change their oil at say, 3k mile intervals, do you think they could run a conventional 5w30 (as opposed to the 0W20) in a warmer climate?
I suggest conventional for the sake of lower costs, but more frequent changes.
My girlfriends 18 civic ge
As someone who has worked for NA Honda for years there really isn’t many problems with the 1.5T engine other than injectors running out of spec and turbochargers starting to go bad around the 150k+ mark. After servicing many 1.5T engines I have not witnessed anything related to timing chain component or vtc failures since the inception of the engine. I would recommend on sticking with factory recommendations on approved 0w20 oil and change it earlier if it helps you sleep better at night.
my girlfriend has an 18 civic with this engine. Oil smells a little like fuel but the level never raises on the dipstick I personally think it’s from short trips. None the less I change hers at 3,000 mile or 6 months whichever comes first using full synthetic oil that meets spec and the weight of 0w20. These little engines are turbo charged which is terrible on oil anyway I couldn’t imagine going a full year or 7,000 miles.
 
Back
Top