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HPL 10W20 is my recommendation.
It would meet all your preferences with room to spare.
High Performance Lubricants No VII series engine oils.
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HPL 10W20 is my recommendation.
It would meet all your preferences with room to spare.
I’d say go with NO VII 5w20. I’m on 2nd 6k run with it. No issues.
I think as long as you’re using the minimum recommended viscosity for your engine, it’s impossible to make a bad choice from the No VII line.
Good Meme !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I was thinking
5w30 no vii
I was thinking
My wife’s ‘21 Mazda CX-9 will be getting the HPL No VII 5w30 (recommended spec) after we run their EC30 for 2k miles.
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From what I understand, the main benefit of the "no vii" lineup is that it won't shear down. Shearing is only really a problem with trucks that work hard (tow) or if you track your car a lot, you can probably get away with using their cheapest PCMO, it's significantly cheaper and has the same cleaning ability etc.
That's part of it, but they also have a slightly higher HTHS viscosity too, especially the Euro versions of the No VII oils.
I've been wondering what the pros/cons of the Euro version of any of their oils - particularly the No VII oils - would be. Higher price aside.
Triple_Se7en
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.... or if you own a 2011-2019 Hyundai or Kia Theta 2 four cylinder GDI/TGDI engine.
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Switching to Amsoil SS made both of my 2013 Santa Fes run smoother and quieter. I used to be a "synthetic oils are the same" kind of guy until recently.
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At what temperature does the “inflection point” occur between the No VII and the P+ (in, say, 5w-30)? In other words, how cold does it have to get before the benefits of the No VII are outweighed by the improved cold flow of the P+?
Both will pump at their respective winter ratings. In my opinion though, if you will regularly crank it in negative temperatures, anything below 0°F, you'll probably get more benefit from the P+ line than the No VII line.
If your engine keeps the oil out of the combustion chambers (and the catalytic converter), the euro oil is full-SAPS and there is no downside. If your engine burns oil, the PCEO uses a lower sulfated ash levels to keep the cats alive longer.
I live in PHX...decided on 5W20 No VII for my car because the ambient temperature is so abusive. I also spend a lot of time idling where intake air temps get up to 180F. Someone validate that I made the right choice 
Also I only drive about 4k miles per year so I'm assuming I can get 2 years out of an oil change.
Also I only drive about 4k miles per year so I'm assuming I can get 2 years out of an oil change.
Should just run the PCMO 10w20I live in PHX...decided on 5W20 No VII for my car because the ambient temperature is so abusive. I also spend a lot of time idling where intake air temps get up to 180F. Someone validate that I made the right choice
Also I only drive about 4k miles per year so I'm assuming I can get 2 years out of an oil change.
I have the 10w20 In my Mazda and Elantra at the end of January this year. We had some cold snaps after that. The Elantra had a bit of valve train startup noise when it was under 30f.
I'll go will the No VII 5w20 in the Elantra before winter.
I won't waste HPL oil in the Mazda for winter. Too much fuel dilution I'll put in M1 0w-40 in Dec and change it back out for HPL in the spring.
I'll go will the No VII 5w20 in the Elantra before winter.
I won't waste HPL oil in the Mazda for winter. Too much fuel dilution I'll put in M1 0w-40 in Dec and change it back out for HPL in the spring.
The 10W is plenty good to 0F if not to -15F we do know what the W stands for right. Many including myself ran 10w in Wisconsin without issue 30F is not cold by any means.
My understanding is that the 10w20 has the lowest volatility.
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