High Performance Lubricants Euro series with VII

[Patrick0525]

Bought some Euro 5w-30 with VII. SE PA , the lowest winter temp has been -15F. How does the Euro series compare to the premium plus 0W-20 for cold cranking? Should I have purchased the no VII 5w-30 version that everyone has been buying?
My Toyota 2GR is spec for 0w-20.

Passenger Premium Plus 0w-20 46.02@40c

Euro Series 5w-30 73.32@40c are attached

 

[Brian123]

I think you are fine with what you bought; you can always buy some of the NO VII version and compare. I doubt you will see a difference.

 

[Astro14]

If you are concerned with cold weather cranking, then you bought a better oil for your application than the NO VII.

I think the attraction, for most people, of the NO VII is that, without viscosity index improvers, they think it will be more shear-stable.

And yet, HPL’s regular oil is shear-stable for, well, 30,000 miles or so. Take a look at Wayne’s Durango, that went 34,000 miles on a run of HPL.

Thread 'Under valve cover & sump pictures - 2014 Dodge Durango 174,000 miles total, 34,000 miles on HPL HDEO 5w-20'
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...-total-34-000-miles-on-hpl-hdeo-5w-20.377792/

As far as how well the oil you bought will do in -15F? You’re going to be pleased.

 

[demarpaint]

To -15F the oil you bought will be fine, don't overthink it. You have a premium product suitable for climates colder than -15F.

 

[spasm3]

Good choice. At -15f I would want some VII.

 

[Patrick0525]

If you are concerned with cold weather cranking, then you bought a better oil for your application than the NO VII.

I think the attraction, for most people, of the NO VII is that, without viscosity index improvers, they think it will be more shear-stable.

And yet, HPL’s regular oil is shear-stable for, well, 30,000 miles or so. Take a look at Wayne’s Durango, that went 34,000 miles on a run of HPL.

Thread 'Under valve cover & sump pictures - 2014 Dodge Durango 174,000 miles total, 34,000 miles on HPL HDEO 5w-20'
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...-total-34-000-miles-on-hpl-hdeo-5w-20.377792/

As far as how well the oil you bought will do in -15F? You’re going to be pleased.

Not planning to do a 34k oci. More like 10k oci which has more than enough shear and TBN protection. It will be interesting to see if the uoa wear metals differences at 5K and 10k between hpl and pp/pup. Maybe no discernible difference. I have collected 120k miles of uoa data. At least I know the hpl will clean up any varnish and oil ring carbon accumulated during the 120k. The only problem is that it will take one and two years to get the uoa results. Planning to go into retirement and now I have to drive two cars 14 Venza and 21 RX350.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

Not planning to do a 34k oci. More like 10k oci which has more than enough shear and TBN protection. It will be interesting to see if the uoa wear metals differences at 5K and 10k between hpl and pp/pup. Maybe no discernible difference. I have collected 120k miles of uoa data. At least I know the hpl will clean up any varnish and oil ring carbon accumulated during the 120k. The only problem is that it will take one and two years to get the uoa results. Planning to go into retirement and now I have to drive two cars 14 Venza and 21 RX350.

Don’t fall into that trap… UOAs are not the correct tool to “measure” wear materials. It’s merely an indicator, and can be skewed when changing oils due to good oils removing built up deposits. You’ll note on many UOAs that have switched to the higher level M1 oils that have some ANs & esters that iron & copper appear to increase; however this is likely due to “chelation” where the oil’s detergents & ANs are liberating those elements off the internal engine surfaces that were left behind by inferior oils.

It’s not an item of concern… but the trending factor of wear materials can be used to identify when a problem is occurring. This is why it’s said to have at least 3 consecutive runs on the same oil before you really start paying attention to the elemental analysis unless it comes back with say >150ppm iron.

UOAs are a tool that really only accurately tells you the condition of the oil itself; what’s the viscosity, TBN, presence of fuel or coolant, etc. The wear metals are not a valid tool to assess wear since the UOA is only looking at particles <7 microns. The last part of your statement is OK; you’re aware you will likely see changes in the trends as the HPL cleans out all the stuff left behind from the previous 120k.

Congrats on your new project; looking forward to how the HPL does for you!

 

[Patrick0525]

Don’t fall into that trap… UOAs are not the correct tool to “measure” wear materials. It’s merely an indicator, and can be skewed when changing oils due to good oils removing built up deposits. You’ll note on many UOAs that have switched to the higher level M1 oils that have some ANs & esters that iron & copper appear to increase; however this is likely due to “chelation” where the oil’s detergents & ANs are liberating those elements off the internal engine surfaces that were left behind by inferior oils.

It’s not an item of concern… but the trending factor of wear materials can be used to identify when a problem is occurring. This is why it’s said to have at least 3 consecutive runs on the same oil before you really start paying attention to the elemental analysis unless it comes back with say >150ppm iron.

UOAs are a tool that really only accurately tells you the condition of the oil itself; what’s the viscosity, TBN, presence of fuel or coolant, etc. The wear metals are not a valid tool to assess wear since the UOA is only looking at particles <7 microns. The last part of your statement is OK; you’re aware you will likely see changes in the trends as the HPL cleans out all the stuff left behind from the previous 120k.

Congrats on your new project; looking forward to how the HPL does for you!

Thanks will post updates.
I was wondering why some hpl uoa had cu ppm in the 20+ range.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

Thanks will post updates.
I was wondering why some hpl uoa had cu ppm in the 20+ range.

Yes… some oils leach or chelate copper from the oil coolers. As long as this number stabilizes or decreases after a few UOAs, it’s not indicative of an issue with the engine.

 

[4WD]

Yes… some oils leach or chelate copper from the oil coolers. As long as this number stabilizes or decreases after a few UOAs, it’s not indicative of an issue with the engine.

BITOG:
My iron was 6 ppm - now I changed brands and it’s 12 ppm!!!
OMG !!! It has doubled so now I can only get 200k and not 400k from that engine - I better start a new thread !!!

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

BITOG:
My iron was 6 ppm - now I changed brands and it’s 12 ppm!!!
OMG !!! It has doubled so now I can only get 200k and not 400k from that engine - I better start a new post !!!

Shame, shame. The engine will likely still be running fine when the vehicle is sent to the crusher…

 

[#18FAN]

It don't matter what version you bought if it meets a 5W spec cold weather start up you will be fine.