High Mileage 5.7 HEMI V-8's ??

I am 400 miles away from turning 250K miles on my 2012 Charger Pursuit with the 5.7L. The car was used as a PD patrol car for the first 100K miles then retired and auctioned off, at which point I picked it up (2018).

The engine had its cam and lifters replaced at 90K miles while still in PD service. It has run flawlessly for me for 150K miles now.

I have used all different brands and weights of oils in it, often mixing weights for OCIs. 15w-40, 10w-30, 5w-20, and 5w-30 have all been used at one time or another, sometimes all within the same OCI.
 
My brother has a 2016 Ram 1500 Hemi with just over 193,688 miles noted from the last change I did on it. 1st 130k were all done at a dealership quick lane, Mopar filters and dealerbulk 5w20. He take the OLM to 0% typically 🤦‍♂️

Last 60k roughly I’ve done with RGT, Mobil 1, Havoline Pro-Ds, whatever was on sale or rebate basically. Anywhere from 8k to 10k with Wix, Baldwin, or TG’s filters. Still runs good, getting 20-22 MPG highway.
 
Over on RAM Forum, the common thread between air suspension being troublesome is usually the fact that service techs have no idea how to actually debug the system. They just replace (expensive) parts and hope for the best.

There is a computer module specifically for air suspension that techs seem to not bother checking the codes and/or live data from. A lot of the problems can be traced down to exact issue (height sensors, pressure sensors, etc) but instead they call for expensive compressor and/or valve replacements

I actually would bet that 90% of them put the pod on it and see the DTCs have to run air mass test etc.
 
2016 RAM 1500 5.7L HEMI - 45K miles. Ours ran on Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 for most of its life with 5K to 7K OCIs.
What was the Mobil 1 oil that you were running? Was it the Euro spec? Not sure that we have that here in Dubai.
I've experienced the dreaded tick 3 times in two different trucks. On both I've changed the lifters and one engine rebuilds. After the first rebuild, I told my mechanic to use RL. He was skeptical, being someone who preferred to use the factory oil. On using it, he called me told me how smooth the engine sounded compared to the prior Mopar 5W30 that was in it. Since then I was convinced that RL was the oil I would use. When I got my second truck, I bought it used and had a small tick. You had to listen for it, but it was there. I ran with RL 5W30 and it went away. The engine was smooth with over 250,000 kms on the clock. Then when RL 5W30 was out of stock, I tried Amsoil SS 5W30 and after about a couple of weeks the slight tick started again. I wasn't sure what kind of tick, eventually the diagnosis was that both the manifold bolts as well as the lifters failed. Did a rebuild with replacing only the lifters that failed and then tried Castrol Magnatec. I wanted to find an oil that I could use when RL was not available. It was smooth for a bit and then the tick came back. Tried another thicker oil.. got even worse. Had to do a rebuild again and replace all the lifters this time and then put in RL. Engine was back to smooth running.
Now, RL is out of stock again here in Dubai and I prefer to keep the OCIs to 5000kms. If I'm going to buy high end oils, I'm going to get RL. Nothing else.
Since there is no stock, What else can I use?
I'm thinking of either:
Shell Helix Ultra 0W40 /5w30
Mobil 1 FS 0W40
Castrol Edge 5W30 / 0W40
Mopar 5W30
Mopar 0W40
 
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Where are you located?

Im looking for another oil to try in my Hemi. Cant find Rotella Gas/Truck locally anymore (nor the T6 equivalent), reading on these forums vs the RAM forum makes my head spin...its like total opposites, but the gigantic RAM forum thread is turning into marketing lol
There’s one guy on there that acts like the Ram expert, thankfully he got banned here.
 
We bought a 05 Dodge 1500 4x4 with the 5.7, new. We drove it for 230,000 miles. Used conventional 5w-20 oil for probably half of those miles. Switched to 5w-30 at some point because all my other engines used it.
No engine issues, changed spark plugs at 100k, and cleaned throttle body a couple times. I may have changed the trans fluid once, I dont recall for sure. Manifold developed a leak at some point probably around 150K. Was small and went away once it warmed up. I could see the rusted broken bolt. I chose to leave it.

We gave it to my dad for a woods truck. He has had it around 8 years. It’s rusted badly but the engine and trans are still running great. Last I looked its at 240,000 miles. Plugs were only ever changed at 100k….lol.
 
This gentleman just racked up 200,000 miles in 4 years on a 5th gen ram. He's worked it pretty hard too, 2000+ idle hours and lots of heavy towing.

 
What was the Mobil 1 oil that you were running? Was it the Euro spec? Not sure that we have that here in Dubai.
I've experienced the dreaded tick 3 times in two different trucks. On both I've changed the lifters and one engine rebuilds. After the first rebuild, I told my mechanic to use RL. He was skeptical, being someone who preferred to use the factory oil. On using it, he called me told me how smooth the engine sounded compared to the prior Mopar 5W30 that was in it. Since then I was convinced that RL was the oil I would use. When I got my second truck, I bought it used and had a small tick. You had to listen for it, but it was there. I ran with RL 5W30 and it went away. The engine was smooth with over 250,000 kms on the clock. Then when RL 5W30 was out of stock, I tried Amsoil SS 5W30 and after about a couple of weeks the slight tick started again. I wasn't sure what kind of tick, eventually the diagnosis was that both the manifold bolts as well as the lifters failed. Did a rebuild with replacing only the lifters that failed and then tried Castrol Magnatec. I wanted to find an oil that I could use when RL was not available. It was smooth for a bit and then the tick came back. Tried another thicker oil.. got even worse. Had to do a rebuild again and replace all the lifters this time and then put in RL. Engine was back to smooth running.
Now, RL is out of stock again here in Dubai and I prefer to keep the OCIs to 5000kms. If I'm going to buy high end oils, I'm going to get RL. Nothing else.
Since there is no stock, What else can I use?
I'm thinking of either:
Shell Helix Ultra 0W40 /5w30
Mobil 1 FS 0W40
Castrol Edge 5W30 / 0W40
Mopar 5W30
Mopar 0W40

I have checked and I see that Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 is sold in the UAE: https://www.mobiluae.com/products/mobil-1-fs-0w-40/#1546429363630-2fa3267e-195e

Of course, you can also run Mobil 1 X3 0W-40, which is a newer and more complex formulation: https://www.mobiluae.com/products/mobil-1-esp-x3-0w-40/

Due to your climate, I recommend that your run a 0W-40 or 5W-40 oil.

Other good options are Shell Helix Ultra or Castrol EDGE.

Mobil has the advantage of using Ester and ANs in their formulations, which help augment the anti wear package and clean & keep your engine clean.

I know that you got a lot of bad information about Red Line on RamForum, and I'm sorry about that. Unfortunately, I no longer participate there. Red Line is good oil, however, not only is it not necessary for a HEMI, but it won't prevent lifter failure. No oil can do that. Quieting an engine somewhat with oil doesn't mean better protection against wear. The 400 to 600 ppm of Moly in Red Line is there to help the ZDDP overcome the polarity of the POE and Calcium / Magnesium detergent package. It's there to for the anti-wear tribo-film. Mobil uses Trimer Moly in conjunction with Borated compounds to form a good tribo-film. I'm not going to pretend like I understand oil formulation, however, don't base your decision on UOAs/VOAs.

If Mobil 1 0W-40 is affordable, use it with confidence. It has served me well in the HEMI for many years now. The ticking noise doesn't necessarily mean trouble. It can come from injectors, or one or more pushrods that are either out of tolerance or not perfectly straight. The POE in the Red Line absorbs the vibration induced noise better than other base oils. That's the entire secret to "quieting down" the engine. However, and I repeat, it will not provide you with better anti wear protection and it will definitively not prevent a lifter failure. Lifter failure is the fault of substandard manufacturing and materials, and no oil can prevent that.

I hope this helps.
 
What about using an oil that meets the Chrysler spec? Is that important?
No, because it's not an approval. The Chrysler Material Standard mirrors API and ILSAC mostly. To illustrate how stupid it is, picture this: Chrysler has a Las Vegas Taxi Trial, or had, I don't know for sure, for MS 6395. Well, all taxi cabs, without exception, have Pentastar V6 engines. Yet MS 6395 is recommended for the 5.7 HEMI, yet not for the 6.4, in spite of the fact that both engines have the exact same tolerances and share many of the same parts. In other words, use what you really think is right for your Chrysler engine, and ignore the useless Material Standard.
 
@Rod Knock Thank you for the information. I will take it into serious consideration.
With regards to Redline, I must have made an error when stating the background of my query. I was not aware of what you experienced on the ram forum. I never faced such issues and No one gave me false information. The advice I got was accurate and did help me immensely. To be fair, I've not read a single thread that called RL a necessity. I've gone through the whole 4000 page thread. Most of it talks about RL being one of the best, if not the best for the Hemi engine. However most use PUP or Mobil 1 in their engines. If they hear a tick, then suggestion is to use RL so that it goes away. There is quite a lot of talk about finding an oil that is as good as RL, but doesn't cost as much.
Ram forum isn't the only one that paints such a picture of RL. I've looked at a number of forums involving Mopar products and the Hemi engine and all of them say the same thing. If not RL, there is talk of using an additive called Lubegard Biotech.
I cannot say for anyone from other parts of the world, but over here in Dubai, servicing at the dealership is compulsory; otherwise you void the warranty. So as a result, we have no say on what oil is used for the first 3 years of ownership. And while the car is at the dealership for service, we aren't even allowed to observe while it is being done. So even if we demanded that the dealership used the oil we chose, we have no way of proving they actually listened to us or not.
So by the time the warranty is out, our engines are definitely compromised because they would have been using 5w20 in this 50.C heat. Most owners are ignorant of it, until there is a tick and we have to change the lifters.
In my personal experience, I've heard my engine run with other oils. The engine really does sound great with RL in it and if I can, I would use it. But right now it is not in stock. So I need to find something to use till it comes back in stock.
If I had control over the servicing of a brand new engine from the very beginning, I would definitely use something else like Mobil 1 0W40 or Castrol Edge 0W40.
My brother's 2004 Durango uses the same engine with MDS since his owners manual called for 5w30, that is what was used from the very beginning and for 300,000kms it ran without a single issue or tick. The same for quite a few other Hemi Chrysler products of that era. So I'm convinced that the usage of Mobil 1 0W40 would be good enough for any new Hemi engine.
 
No, because it's not an approval. The Chrysler Material Standard mirrors API and ILSAC mostly. To illustrate how stupid it is, picture this: Chrysler has a Las Vegas Taxi Trial, or had, I don't know for sure, for MS 6395. Well, all taxi cabs, without exception, have Pentastar V6 engines. Yet MS 6395 is recommended for the 5.7 HEMI, yet not for the 6.4, in spite of the fact that both engines have the exact same tolerances and share many of the same parts. In other words, use what you really think is right for your Chrysler engine, and ignore the useless Material Standard.
So.... Mobil 1 5W-40 is good to go in my 5.7 HEMI for the hot Summer, and 5W-30 for the cooler Winters out here?
 
So.... Mobil 1 5W-40 is good to go in my 5.7 HEMI for the hot Summer, and 5W-30 for the cooler Winters out here?
You can run Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 year-round, just like I do. NC is not that hot either all year. I even swapped out the thermostat for a Mishimoto 180F racing t-stat and removed eight out of twelve grille shutters. It makes things run cooler for sure, but the cooling system has its limitations. Of course, I never see 240~245F oil and coolant temps while towing in summer.
 
Of course, I never see 240~245F oil and coolant temps while towing in summer.
That's low - 280-290F is commonly being reported on the Gen 5 Ram's while towing.

I have personally seen over 250F just from highway driving in mountainous terrain.
 
That's low - 280-290F is commonly being reported on the Gen 5 Ram's while towing.

I have personally seen over 250F just from highway driving in mountainous terrain.
Get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDZD5BO

Even if you don't delete your grille shutters, it helps a ton. As as side effect, I can run cheap gas in the HEMI without any issues. When the coolant is 185F in winter and 200F ~ 210F in August, and oil temperature about the same, all of a sudden preignition isn't such a big problem anymore in the HEMI. ;)
 
I had a 2015 Dodge Magnum (wagon) with the 5.7. It had 105,000 miles on it when I traded it on a 392 Challenger. I ran headers, cat back exhaust and a tune. I used mostly Motorcraft 5W-20 and I drove it hard. It still ran perfect when I traded it.
2005 perhaps? Magnums only made 2005 to 2008
 
What was the Mobil 1 oil that you were running? Was it the Euro spec? Not sure that we have that here in Dubai.
I've experienced the dreaded tick 3 times in two different trucks. On both I've changed the lifters and one engine rebuilds. After the first rebuild, I told my mechanic to use RL. He was skeptical, being someone who preferred to use the factory oil. On using it, he called me told me how smooth the engine sounded compared to the prior Mopar 5W30 that was in it. Since then I was convinced that RL was the oil I would use. When I got my second truck, I bought it used and had a small tick. You had to listen for it, but it was there. I ran with RL 5W30 and it went away. The engine was smooth with over 250,000 kms on the clock. Then when RL 5W30 was out of stock, I tried Amsoil SS 5W30 and after about a couple of weeks the slight tick started again. I wasn't sure what kind of tick, eventually the diagnosis was that both the manifold bolts as well as the lifters failed. Did a rebuild with replacing only the lifters that failed and then tried Castrol Magnatec. I wanted to find an oil that I could use when RL was not available. It was smooth for a bit and then the tick came back. Tried another thicker oil.. got even worse. Had to do a rebuild again and replace all the lifters this time and then put in RL. Engine was back to smooth running.
Now, RL is out of stock again here in Dubai and I prefer to keep the OCIs to 5000kms. If I'm going to buy high end oils, I'm going to get RL. Nothing else.
Since there is no stock, What else can I use?
I'm thinking of either:
Shell Helix Ultra 0W40 /5w30
Mobil 1 FS 0W40
Castrol Edge 5W30 / 0W40
Mopar 5W30
Mopar 0W40
If you are going through multiple sets of lifters you've got something else going on like they aren't adequately cleaning the engine (that's why the engine is normally replaced, rather than the cam and lifters swapped) or the parts are counterfeit.

HEMI's are noisy engines. Ticking is usually exhaust manifold studs and noise is not an indication that you've had a lifter fail. In fact, often when they fail, they make no noise or they "chirp".

Did you actually see any of the failed lifters and the damaged camshafts?
 
2005 perhaps? Magnums only made 2005 to 2008
Whoops, key stroke error (more like a brain short circuit)! Yes a 2005 Magnum.
 

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