Help me decide what oil to use in new KTM
- Thread starter donnyj08
- Start date
Nope. Not in the least! https://www.facebook.com/groups/1499093983993632
Not a Facebook member, so can't see any details. If they changed the part number per post 46, and they are still failing, then could be an oiling system problem or the manufacturing process (ie, materials, heat treat, etc) may still be a factor.
Well, it is far, far more complex! So you have to join to find out or ... not.
Of course! What else?Aliens ?
How about a short summary of the real on-going cause of issue.Of course! What else?
In summary: THe new wider followers made no difference. Although KTM says only earlier 790s are affected, that is NOT true. Cam failures are happening on ALL model years INCLUDING 2023 bikes. This issue is not fixed by a far shot and the jury is out on what that may hold for the new LC8c 990 engine.
So KTM, nor anyone else knows the root cause of the issue? Like I mentioned earlier, it's got to be an oiling issue or a materials/production issue or a combination. If KTM widened the followers to lower the load on the parts and if that's correct, then lack of lubrication or improper materials/heat treat is most likely the cause. Still possible it could be the load is still too high on the cam and followers, which would fall into the design realm.
Oiling has been suspected .. some have installed the stronger pressure relief spring raising oil pressure from 2 bar to 3 bar ... many reputable sources also believe the materials (DLC and insufficiently hardened steel) are to blame ... in short nobody has been conclusively able to say this is the reason. If you really want to follow and learn more, join that FB group. They're up to over 9000 subscribers.
This may help clear some confusion. FWIW it explains why some have the issue and some do not. There is a manufacture issue on some heads. We don’t have current cases of 23 and 24 790s which are CF Moto built, however many don’t have high miles yet.
There are failures in 23 Norden and 890s which are still Austrian built.
Time will tell…the LC8c design in CF Moto and Kove have yet to see failures either, however there is limited supply in the USA.
My 24 790 now has 4K miles and is doing well. Only issue is a weeping counter shaft seal that is scheduled for replacement.
There are failures in 23 Norden and 890s which are still Austrian built.
Time will tell…the LC8c design in CF Moto and Kove have yet to see failures either, however there is limited supply in the USA.
My 24 790 now has 4K miles and is doing well. Only issue is a weeping counter shaft seal that is scheduled for replacement.
Just curious...is there a reason why you ruled out Mobil 1 in 20w-50 V-Twin?
It seems that might be the easiest for me to acquire (Walmart) for my '24 KTM 890 Adv R.
I only seem to put about 500 miles a year on, so if one brand is a bit more expensive not too worried.
I never ride below 50* here in UT, but it can regularly be 90-100*, so think of stepping up to 15 or 20w.
Other possibilities I'm considering:
Maxima ProPlus+ 20w-50
Klotz MX4 15w-50
Bel-Ray V-Twin (semi-syn) 20w-50
Honda HP4 20w-50
Bel-Ray EXP (syn ester blend) 15/20w-50
Thoughts?
It seems that might be the easiest for me to acquire (Walmart) for my '24 KTM 890 Adv R.
I only seem to put about 500 miles a year on, so if one brand is a bit more expensive not too worried.
I never ride below 50* here in UT, but it can regularly be 90-100*, so think of stepping up to 15 or 20w.
Other possibilities I'm considering:
Maxima ProPlus+ 20w-50
Klotz MX4 15w-50
Bel-Ray V-Twin (semi-syn) 20w-50
Honda HP4 20w-50
Bel-Ray EXP (syn ester blend) 15/20w-50
Thoughts?
M1 20w50 V-Twin would be a great choice. The oil selection game keeps forums like this in business. Everything you've described about the low annual mileage and temperatures, go with that and be done. Heavier oil does a good job of remaining in the engine and sticking to parts at startup, oil flow at startup is highly overrated when there's an opportunity for oil to still be there in the first place.
I should also mention, while at Walmart there was 2 other motorcycle specific choices available.
- Valvoline (full syn) 20w-50 $9.97/qt
- Castrol Actevo (syn blend) 20w-50 $6.47/qt
Both of these had an API rating of SL, while the Mobil 1 had an SJ rating, $10.86/qt
Any idea as to why the ratings difference?
- Valvoline (full syn) 20w-50 $9.97/qt
- Castrol Actevo (syn blend) 20w-50 $6.47/qt
Both of these had an API rating of SL, while the Mobil 1 had an SJ rating, $10.86/qt
Any idea as to why the ratings difference?
If this is just a value proposition, many have used Mobil 1 15w-50 for years in air cooled BMW's and other older KTMS with success. I would look at this over the blend 20w-50.
Honestly, the bike needs as much help as it can get in the engine longevity department. 20w-50 would probably do fine though there are not alot of "synthetic" variants of 20w-50.
This is a premium bike which really doesn't need oil changes any sooner than 3,000 miles IMO. I'd just buy the best stuff I can rather than chase pennies.
Honestly, the bike needs as much help as it can get in the engine longevity department. 20w-50 would probably do fine though there are not alot of "synthetic" variants of 20w-50.
This is a premium bike which really doesn't need oil changes any sooner than 3,000 miles IMO. I'd just buy the best stuff I can rather than chase pennies.
There is alot of speculation that the oil pump simply doesn't create enough oil pressure for the oil passages it travels through.
In theory a thicker grade oil should create slightly more oil pressure than the factory spec of 10w-50 weight of oil.
Also, it's been said in the past that the closer the multi weight grade the better. Ex - 10w-30 vs say 10w-60 (yes it exists).
I do find value in a quality oil at a affordable price, but that is not the driving factor here. Bike takes 2.8 liters is all.
In theory a thicker grade oil should create slightly more oil pressure than the factory spec of 10w-50 weight of oil.
Also, it's been said in the past that the closer the multi weight grade the better. Ex - 10w-30 vs say 10w-60 (yes it exists).
I do find value in a quality oil at a affordable price, but that is not the driving factor here. Bike takes 2.8 liters is all.
The cam eating issue looks like a lack of oil volume to certain areas of the valve train. That can be caused by many different and multiple factors. An increase in oil pressure when using the same viscosity would mean more volume is being sent through the oil passages. The oil pump performance and/or choked down oil passages would be the first suspects in causing a lack of oil volume to the required parts.
I just always figured with KTM it was what they originally specified so they have just stuck with it for all bikes. No need to change. The reality is that most 10w-50s shear down to a 40w pretty quickly.
I decided to try the Maxima Pro Plus+ in 20w50. (API SN rated)
It's only June and the majority of my ride yesterday was 85*+
Maybe this will help the KTM 'box of rocks' growl on startup.
It's only June and the majority of my ride yesterday was 85*+
Maybe this will help the KTM 'box of rocks' growl on startup.
How is it on dead cold start up. I actually noticed slower cranking with the move from a 10w-50 to a 15w-50 last year. Nothing earth shattering but I was just wondering.I decided to try the Maxima Pro Plus+ in 20w50. (API SN rated)
It's only June and the majority of my ride yesterday was 85*+
Maybe this will help the KTM 'box of rocks' growl on startup.
