Another vote for Restore and Protect. 5W-30 for both. The Acura will benefit from the thicker oil, slowing burn, and hopefully, the R&P will clean the rings and reduce oil consumption also.
Of course it can. But that’s not the debate, the question is why dilute the oil’s additive formulation with a product like Lucas? Why not just use a thicker formulated oil instead?Valvoline restore and protect with top tier gas may clean up a ring sludge problem then it may seal better. If that doesn’t help it, I would dump in a quart of the non synthetic Lucas oil stabilizer. The naysayers on here do not like it but it does reduce consumption in old engines.
Which V6 do you have in that Tacoma? Not too many oil burners in old Tacomas.Since you like M1 and like EP and 10W is good enough for the given temperature range, plus my much older v6 Tacoma doesn't burn any oil with it (whereas it does burn with 2 or 3 different other oil I've tried) ... I would give it a shot.
However, it may not resolve your Acura issues and/or win the cup test.
Which V6 do you have in that Tacoma? Not too many oil burners in old Tacomas.
That's a great engine. Sorry, I think you said it burns oil with a few brands above. Did I misunderstand that? Which brands did it burn with?I think it's the 4.0 V6 1GR-FE. It doesn't burn oil or have any problems as far as I can tell.
Sorry for any confusion. I have reason to believe the Toyota does NOT burn oil, until I see otherwise. Acura consumes 2qt/3k currently with M1 EP HM 5W-20, and that engine has a history of ring sludge problems (probably due to transmission tuning changes shortly before and the engines being lugged constantly). I plan on doing a piston soak with HPL EC30 and a good Italian tuneup after that.That's a great engine. Sorry, I think you said it burns oil with a few brands above. Did I misunderstand that? Which brands did it burn with?
Not a bad plan. I’m sure they appreciate it. I would make strong consideration to VRP after that.Sorry for any confusion. I have reason to believe the Toyota does NOT burn oil, until I see otherwise. Acura consumes 2qt/3k currently with M1 EP HM 5W-20, and that engine has a history of ring sludge problems (probably due to transmission tuning changes shortly before and the engines being lugged constantly). I plan on doing a piston soak with HPL EC30 and a good Italian tuneup after that.
This is the logical starting point for engines with significant usage before they come into your care.Another vote for Restore and Protect. 5W-30 for both. The Acura will benefit from the thicker oil, slowing burn, and hopefully, the R&P will clean the rings and reduce oil consumption also.
Try Mobil 1 Truck & SUV next, PUP will be beat.View attachment 271163
I had some nice 5w-30s in my chest freezer, and it was an eye-opening experience.
At -15C, Idemitsu 5w-30 was hard to pour out from the container, VRP 5W-30 was like molasses but slowly flowing, and PUP 5w-30 flowed nicely like ESP 0W-30. All 0W-20 were super easy to pour out from containers (maple syrup viscosity).
Starting sound of my Subaru Outback with Idemitsu 5w-30 was not nice at all -20C.
I prefer 0W stuff for such a occasions.
Gravity doesn't apply inside the engine?Ah the cup test which is closely related to the little plastic ramp test, popular on YouTube.
If I ever need to know how the oil behaves and flows out of a paper cup I’ll be sure to check back.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out how an ICE oiling system works. You can do it. I know you can.Gravity doesn't apply inside the engine?
ICE oiling system HAS TO deal with gravity if it wants to function on planet earth.I'll leave it up to you to figure out how an ICE oiling system works. You can do it. I know you can.
That tells you how fast it will pour out of a leaking valve cover gasket in winter.Ah the cup test which is closely related to the little plastic ramp test, popular on YouTube.
If I ever need to know how the oil behaves and flows out of a paper cup I’ll be sure to check back.