Use your laser heat gun on the oil pan. It's a pretty good indicator.I wish my Toyota 2grfe had an oil temp readout. I'm currently using 0w40 and it may be impacting my mpg more than I think.
Use your laser heat gun on the oil pan. It's a pretty good indicator.I wish my Toyota 2grfe had an oil temp readout. I'm currently using 0w40 and it may be impacting my mpg more than I think.
The Macan has blue bars above the temperatures to remind you to take it easy until temps are right of the blue bars.My M139 Amg and K20 would never see full throttleAmg has a neat little indicator that makes the oil number blue "for cold" and after 167f it changes colors. The K20 doesn't have that but with integrated headers it hits 160f very fast.
My M5 had a variable redline that allowed you to explore more of the tach as the engine warmed.The Macan has blue bars above the temperatures to remind you to take it easy until temps are right of the blue bars.
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My M5 had a variable redline that allowed you to explore more of the tach as the engine warmed.
I assume they figure viscosity in there as well as part of the reasoning, as they also include oil temperature instrumentation.yes but that has to do with thermal expansion of all parts, and not oil viscosity.
It likely means the same in the macan
I assume they figure viscosity in there as well as part of the reasoning, as they also include oil temperature instrumentation.
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Yes, though my experience with this engine is that oil temperature takes a lot longer to come up than coolant temperature. This is unlike my two HEMI's, where, with the coolant/oil heat exchangers, oil temp very closely mirrors coolant.yes but oil temperature is related to engine temperature as well, the expansion of rods and crankshaft is totally oil cooled
Yes, though my experience with this engine is that oil temperature takes a lot longer to come up than coolant temperature. This is unlike my two HEMI's, where, with the coolant/oil heat exchangers, oil temp very closely mirrors coolant.
Romping on anything other than a fully warm (oil and coolant) just seems like mechanical abuse.Yes, and that's why they have to take oil temps into account for the redline shift.
My Alfa Romeo manual states I'm good to go (full send) when the coolant gauge starts to move, but I always wait until coolant has reached normal operating temp. that car has a coolant/oil exchanger.
Romping on anything other than a fully warm (oil and coolant) just seems like mechanical abuse.
When I think back to all of the times I let my cars cool down for two hours before making a quarter mile pass at the track it makes me cringeRomping on anything other than a fully warm (oil and coolant) just seems like mechanical abuse.
Remember that oil temp sensors are usually at/near the oil filter adapter, sometimes in the oil pan itself. This temp is just bulk temp which is useful. However a turbo charged engine should have one on the oil drain from the turbo. That temp may scare you a bit more. I put a temp sensor into the cast aluminum pan on my 1.8t AWM. It usually read between 190 and 210F unless I was really "spirited". Water/oil cooler, and I'd wager that a majority of the heat came from the turbo. It would have been interesting to put a thermometer on that turbo oil drain. However it was also water cooled.
There have been studies on journal bearing cavitation, and it can happen under certain conditions. Extreme cases will pit and erode the surface of the relatively soft bearing material.Cavitation is the result of a vacuum, correct? Bearings are pressurized by a positive-displacement oil pump. I can see the pump suffering cavitation if the oil cannot flow into the pickup fast enough, but bearings… I may be wrong, but I don’t see how one would get vacuum under any circumstances at the bearing. The oil system has positive atmospheric pressure at both the pump inlet and the bearing outlet, which means the only way to effect flow is via the work of the PD pump. You may get oil starvation or aeration at the bearing, sure. And neither of those are conducive to bearing life.
https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/30768/cavitation-or-aeration
What about the windage from the crank spinning?yes but oil temperature is related to engine temperature aswell, the expansion of rods and crankshaft is totally oil cooled
But wouldn’t this be cavitation bubbles that were generated in the oil pump pickup itself and then pumped to the bearings, causing it to be aeration? Thanks…There have been studies on journal bearing cavitation, and it can happen under certain conditions. Extreme cases will pit and erode the surface of the relatively soft bearing material.
I have the paper saved someplace. If I find it I'll post the conclusions. I did some searching into it when there was a theory that journal bearing cavitation was causing the Ford Coyote "BBQ tick" - ie, the ticking was cavitationair bubbles imploding. . One of the conclusions the study had was that thicker oil was more likely to cause cavitation. The Coyote BBQ tick only happened after the oil warmed up and got thinner, so goes against the cavitation study. Also, the BBQ tick will go away instantly if as little as 150 ml of Ceratec is added to 8 qts of oil. That's why I think the tick is caused by the friction level between moving parts. Ceramic is a friction modifier.
The AMG M139 turbo is cooled by air, water, and oil. Daily driving oil temps are 160-170f. Your average grocery getter with a turbo isn't going to endanger oil temperature. If it is power dense like the M139 then manufacturers incorporate proper cooling.Remember that oil temp sensors are usually at/near the oil filter adapter, sometimes in the oil pan itself. This temp is just bulk temp which is useful. However a turbo charged engine should have one on the oil drain from the turbo. That temp may scare you a bit more. I put a temp sensor into the cast aluminum pan on my 1.8t AWM. It usually read between 190 and 210F unless I was really "spirited". Water/oil cooler, and I'd wager that a majority of the heat came from the turbo. It would have been interesting to put a thermometer on that turbo oil drain. However it was also water cooled.
All this.Cavitation is caused by a low enough pressure in a liquid to cause gas bubbles to form, and when the bubbles become exposed to a higher pressure region, they implode and collapse. That action can cause cavitation erosion of surfaces. The inlet pressure doesn't necessarily have to be a vacuum (ie, below Atm pressure, or zero gauge pressure). But it could be below Atm in some cases. Air bubbles form based on the vapor pressure of the liquid.
So in a pump, the bubbles can form on the low pressure suction side, then become pressurized on the higher pressure side of the pump and collapse, causing a mini implosion that can do damage over time.
The area where oil enters a journal bearing is at a lower pressure than the supporting MOFT wedge. Cavitation can occur in journal bearings under the right conditions. Journal bearings essentially act like mini oil pumps. The side leakage flow they have is a combination of self pumping and the oil supply pressure. A journal bearing will self pump oil through itself even if it's feed an oil supply at zero gauge pressure (ie, Atm pressure). They flow more when the oil supply is above ATM pressure.
A follow up with the info on journal bearing cavitation (for @SubieRubyRoo), and to add to my post 57. Google search for "The effect of viscosity on the cavitation characteristics of high speed sleeve bearing" to find the bearing cavitation study PDF download.There have been studies on journal bearing cavitation, and it can happen under certain conditions. Extreme cases will pit and erode the surface of the relatively soft bearing material.
I have the paper saved someplace. If I find it I'll post the conclusions.