M1 5w30 EP | 2,500 mi | '23 Civic Type R

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Jan 14, 2015
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Location
Massachusetts
Sharing my latest UOA from my FL5 CTR. Use was city/highway mix, with lots of time in boost. Kinda surprised with the ending viscosity being so low, expected EP 5w30 to hold up better. Replaced oil with m1 0w30 ESP for this fall/winter, based on my research it should be a bit more stout.

Prior UOA was with amsoil 0w20 SS for reference.


1000017150.webp
 
Sharing my latest UOA from my FL5 CTR. Use was city/highway mix, with lots of time in boost. Kinda surprised with the ending viscosity being so low, expected EP 5w30 to hold up better. Replaced oil with m1 0w30 ESP for this fall/winter, based on my research it should be a bit more stout.
Wear metals have come down. Low Ca add pack.
Use Euro oils ONLY! Mobil1 5W30 ESP, Mobil1 0W40 etc.
Oh geez! Honda needs Euro oils now? I don't think so. OP car probably specs a 0w-20 to begin with and they're already using a decent xw-30 oil.
 
Wear metals have come down. Low Ca add pack.

Oh geez! Honda needs Euro oils now? I don't think so. OP car probably specs a 0w-20 to begin with and they're already using a decent xw-30 oil.
Yes, oh geez, considering that Honda engines are fuel-dilution monsters.
And the reason for 0W20 is strictly CAFE.

Castrol Germany thinks using this oil is perfectly fine:
Screenshot 2024-10-16 at 10.56.57 PM.webp
 
Yes, oh geez, considering that Honda engines are fuel-dilution monsters.
And the reason for 0W20 is strictly CAFE.

Castrol Germany thinks using this oil is perfectly fine:
View attachment 245706
As long as it's a ACEA C3 it probably isn't going to hurt anything but really not needed if OP is using a good API SP xw-30 like they did above. Honda is not big wearing engines like Euro engines are. Yes, this one has some more power so 30 grade adds some protection from fuel but they get that w/API oil. Who cares what Castrol Germany says when they're in USA.
 
As long as it's a ACEA C3 it probably isn't going to hurt anything but really not needed if OP is using a good API SP xw-30 like they did above. Honda is not big wearing engines like Euro engines are. Yes, this one has some more power so 30 grade adds some protection from fuel but they get that w/API oil. Who cares what Castrol Germany says when they're in USA.
Germany doesn’t have CAFE. That means, engineers’ hands are not tied.
Also, that is abysmal drop in KV100 for 2,500mls. The oil is already well into W20 range. What happens at 5k?
As for wearing, UOA is analysis of oil NOT an engine!
 
Germany doesn’t have CAFE. That means, engineers’ hands are not tied.
Is this Honda a "German" engine? There's no Autobahn here.
Also, that is abysmal drop in KV100 for 2,500mls. The oil is already well into W20 range. What happens at 5k?
OP's 8.25 still higher than a lot of xw-20's & it appears OP is not extending miles regardless of oil used. OP correct me if I'm wrong & if you do intend to extend mileage further.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...-engine-type-2-0-0w20-9307-km-5783-mi.379023/
As for wearing, UOA is analysis of oil NOT an engine!
Blackstone UA, wear trends, fuel dilution along w/higher wear, coolant contamination w/higher wear, Si w/higher wear trend, etc says otherwise. UOA's can & is also used to pinpoint or foresee potential engine problems period. Although that's not its main purpose.
 
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Is this Honda a "German" engine? There's no Autobahn here.

OP's 8.25 still higher than a lot of xw-20's & it appears OP is not extending miles regardless of oil used. OP correct me if I'm wrong & if you do intend to extend mileage further.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...-engine-type-2-0-0w20-9307-km-5783-mi.379023/

Blackstone UA, wear trends, fuel dilution along w/higher wear, coolant contamination w/higher wear, Si w/higher wear trend, etc says otherwise. UOA's can & is also used to pinpoint or foresee potential engine problems period. Although that's not its main purpose.
Potential engine problems! Again, it is not analysis of an engine.
You obviously never drove in Germany. Also, Castrol recommends that in EU.
Nothing here can be seen at 2,500mls except drop of some 2+ cst. He is not running 5k OCI to get an idea. And no, this is not German engine. Fuel dilution proves that. That is something it was “sexy” in 2004 in their engines.
 
Appreciate the feedback. To answer some questions / clarify:

- Regarding extended use, no, I pretty much stick to around 3k OCI especially given my heavy foot and how high strung this motor is (turbo, direct injected, 22psi factory)

- Using OEM honda oil filter, always.

- Prior oil right before this was actually 0w20 OEM honda (got a free oil change at the dealership), and not the amsoil 0w20 SS. I later found out that dealership oil change used synthetic blend and dumped it right away.

- While many 'normal' Honda turbo engines such as the 1.5T have fuel dilution issues, i don't believe this motor does (welcome any evidence counter to that however). Looking at my report, you can see the relatively high flashpoint as well.

- Replaced with M1 ESP 0w30 based on my research for a stout C40 spec oil + colder temps that will come during winter time. I may end up running this OCI a bit longer just due to me being lazy and waiting for spring before doing another oil change..

- Overall still happy with wear, and I do believe staying at a 30w vs 20w is probably more for peace of mind than anything. If I was tracking this car (which i'm not), I would def. stick to a 30 or even 40w. For street usage however, I think a light 30w or stout 20w seems right, but welcome discussion here!
 
The Amsoil lost less viscosity than the Mobil 1 5w30 which isn't surprising. I'd use EP 10w30 or SS 5w/10w-30. ESP 5w30 is another option. Mobil 1 EP and Amsoil SS are as good as it gets for turbos so it's really a matter of viscosity and what oil can handle fuel dilution.
 
Appreciate the feedback. To answer some questions / clarify:

- Regarding extended use, no, I pretty much stick to around 3k OCI especially given my heavy foot and how high strung this motor is (turbo, direct injected, 22psi factory)

- Using OEM honda oil filter, always.

- Prior oil right before this was actually 0w20 OEM honda (got a free oil change at the dealership), and not the amsoil 0w20 SS. I later found out that dealership oil change used synthetic blend and dumped it right away.

- While many 'normal' Honda turbo engines such as the 1.5T have fuel dilution issues, i don't believe this motor does (welcome any evidence counter to that however). Looking at my report, you can see the relatively high flashpoint as well.

- Replaced with M1 ESP 0w30 based on my research for a stout C40 spec oil + colder temps that will come during winter time. I may end up running this OCI a bit longer just due to me being lazy and waiting for spring before doing another oil change..

- Overall still happy with wear, and I do believe staying at a 30w vs 20w is probably more for peace of mind than anything. If I was tracking this car (which i'm not), I would def. stick to a 30 or even 40w. For street usage however, I think a light 30w or stout 20w seems right, but welcome discussion here!
M1 ESP 0W30 is Porsche C30.
The approval that you should aim at is MB229.51/52. Porsche approvals in general are not that stringent, except A/C40 that have track requirements. However, rest of specifications are not as stringent. MB229.5X is gold standard. ESP 0W30 has it. Also, unless it gets below -30, ESP 5W30 is more shear stable and has lower Noack.
 
I got pretty much the same result with my 23 CTR. The 0W-20 tested within in viscosity spec on a 5000 OCI. 7.45 cst. @ 100c The last 5w-30 UOA tested a bit low 8.74 cst@ 100c. 4000 OCI.
 
Use the 10w30 EP and it'll shear less.
Your location is parallel to ours here near Detroit and 10w30 EP Triple Action is fine year-round.

The Euro Oils are fine. But these low viscosity Euro oils will increase carbon inside your TGDI engine. We drive lower speeds here in the USA, versus-that of Germany and it's infamous Autobahn. They commonly blow out some carbon at a greater percentage than us big city USA drivers.

So if you drive in a more congested area, get the EP. If not, then opt for the Euro stuff.
 
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