Going back to 20 weight or sticking with 30?

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Subject car is a known diluter. Any 30 weight dilutes to 20 range within the first thousand miles. That is really the main reason i used 5w30.
 
Originally Posted By: parshisa
Subject car is a known diluter. Any 30 weight dilutes to 20 range within the first thousand miles. That is really the main reason i used 5w30.


In that case it does make sense to give that extra level of protection with a slightly thicker oil. But I'd also go one step further and keep the OCI lower too.
 
Based on the recent UOA 6-7K will he perfectly fine for this oil/engine combo. That’a what i’m sticking with
 
Noisy with both 20 and 30. Honda DI is ticking away and clicking pretty loud
 
I would use the 20 weight you have. Outside temperature only effects living beings, not cars. You should be more concerned about your cooling system than oil viscosity in high temps.
 
Originally Posted By: CR94
Originally Posted By: Patman
... for most people there probably isn't that big of a difference in the longevity of your engine whether you run 5w20 or 5w30. That's because the viscosity of most 5w20s might be around 8.5 to 9cst at 100c while the viscosity of most 5w30s are 10 to 10.5, so they're not that far off really. ...
Exactly! Those who rant about xW-20 being disastrously "water-thin," etc., yet are happy with xW-30 are confused, or else they're living on the edge of trouble with their xW-30.
That goes both ways. Look at all the posts of people that think xW-30 won't fit through engine clearances if the USA owners manual specs a 20.
 
Originally Posted By: jongies3
I would use the 20 weight you have. Outside temperature only effects living beings, not cars. You should be more concerned about your cooling system than oil viscosity in high temps.
At some point engine temps will rise. Most cooling systems aren't designed for racing in Death Valley with the AC on max. Thicker oil give you a little more margin.
 
Originally Posted By: Dallas69
If outside temps don't matter,then why do they have a temp chart in the owners manual?



right..Honda, in their CAFE zeal will not make it right when your turbo engine starts using a qt. or two every OCI. I'm 2 hrs. north of Green Bay and run 0/40 year round, very popular snowmobile grade too if you haven't heard.
 
Originally Posted By: Patman
I know we have this debate quite often but for most people there probably isn't that big of a difference in the longevity of your engine whether you run 5w20 or 5w30. That's because the viscosity of most 5w20s might be around 8.5 to 9cst at 100c while the viscosity of most 5w30s are 10 to 10.5, so they're not that far off really. I'm sticking with 5w20 in my Honda since I drive it rather gently anyways and the rest of the car will fall apart long before the 1.8L engine ever dies.


What happened to HTHS, not relevant anymore?
 
The HTHS is important too, but the difference between most 5w20s and most 5w30s is still not that much (it's generally around 2.7 for 5w20 and 3.0 for 5w30)
 
With all due respect, but honda mpg measuring system is garbage. Complete garbage. 52mpg is stull impressive, max i got was 42
 
I'm getting 52 MPG with my Hyundai Ioniq... based upon pump measurements, not the computer. Eat your heart out. ;-)
 
Good for you. Although i doubt i’d ever buy Hyundai.
 
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that reading was 55-60 mph on a flat 50mi. stretch so ya agreed, not real world...but again with all the dilution and a red hot turbo in a semi performance car that could get beat on occasion a full strength w40 trumps the CAFE swill.
 
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Originally Posted By: KevinP
I'm getting 52 MPG with my Hyundai Ioniq... based upon pump measurements, not the computer. Eat your heart out. ;-)



what's that?
 
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