With the short tripping, I'd do 3,000 mile oil changes with a name brand blend and filter. No compelling need for a full synthetic in that motor at that age.
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Stick with what works or change it up…
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Watch for the oil sale / clearance deals and get some of that.
I ordered the Mobil FS 5w-30 for future daughter-in-laws Tucson when someone posted sale here. I also ordered the 3x 5qt pack of 5W-30 Euro L PP for same reason.
A lot of short trip and fuel dilution on hers. Her first 2 changes at independent shop were at less than 6k but with semi-syn Kendall. My first change (only 17k on vehicle) the Kendall was very dark, very thin and smelled like raw gas. I put the Euro L 5w-30 in this time. Hers will be every 6 months on the change as she drives less than 5 miles to work barely getting warm.
I think the 1.8 in yours is still Port injection not DI so that helps a lot. You can get a pack of factory filters on line for pretty cheap.
I don't think I've ever done an oil change without filter. Unless I did a UOA with questionable results or noticed fuel dilution, I would probably do the 1x per year or ~3k. I think Hyundai severe schedule is 3500 or 3750 miles.
I ordered the Mobil FS 5w-30 for future daughter-in-laws Tucson when someone posted sale here. I also ordered the 3x 5qt pack of 5W-30 Euro L PP for same reason.
A lot of short trip and fuel dilution on hers. Her first 2 changes at independent shop were at less than 6k but with semi-syn Kendall. My first change (only 17k on vehicle) the Kendall was very dark, very thin and smelled like raw gas. I put the Euro L 5w-30 in this time. Hers will be every 6 months on the change as she drives less than 5 miles to work barely getting warm.
I think the 1.8 in yours is still Port injection not DI so that helps a lot. You can get a pack of factory filters on line for pretty cheap.
I don't think I've ever done an oil change without filter. Unless I did a UOA with questionable results or noticed fuel dilution, I would probably do the 1x per year or ~3k. I think Hyundai severe schedule is 3500 or 3750 miles.
Do a @wwillson and get HPL then just do a UOA 1x per year. In 4 years change the filter.
When the UOA comes back as needing it, change it.
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I run my 395,000 mile Xterra on blend or conventional still. Results speak for themselves. My daughter has it now, but I still will be maintaining it.
However it was never short tripped. Even now her "commute" is about 5 miles and she will have it on the interstate once in a while as well. I would seriously recommend trying to get it completely warmed up on a longer trip at least once a month - like 20 miles in one shot. IMHO.
For yours with very short OCI I would stick to a blend. I could see changing that opinion to full syn in a very cold climate, but it appears you don't have that issue.
However it was never short tripped. Even now her "commute" is about 5 miles and she will have it on the interstate once in a while as well. I would seriously recommend trying to get it completely warmed up on a longer trip at least once a month - like 20 miles in one shot. IMHO.
For yours with very short OCI I would stick to a blend. I could see changing that opinion to full syn in a very cold climate, but it appears you don't have that issue.
Under the Valve covers @395,000 miles Nissan Xterra VQ40
I finally got around to fixing the very leaky valve cover gaskets on my 395,000 mile Nissan Xterra. I bought this vehicle new in 2008 and I have always ran this on conventional or semi synthetic following approximately the factory recommended 3,750 OCI. Latest few runs have been on Chevron...
bobistheoilguy.com
If things are going well, do something to frick it up. Be a man.
I was hoping for peace in the Middle East and six pack abs again but I guess 30,000 miles will have to do.
Now this guy gets it. If my life is going to be full of misery then I’m going to bring it on myself.
Supertech Full Syn 5W-30 paired with a Fram Ultra for 6 months. Change the filter once a year.Plotting and scheming on the next oil change for the Hyundai… It is my daughter’s car and it isn’t driven more than a few miles at a time around town. The original owner says the vehicle got only quick lube service with mostly blends at 6 months or 5K miles. Can’t argue with the results as the vehicle has over 200K miles and is still going.
Pertinent Info:
Potential options:
- 2015 Hyundai Elantra 1.8L
- +200K miles on original engine
- Doesn’t consume or dilute at least not noticeably anyways
- Currently running VL 5W30 blend and economy filter
- Short trips around town only. No highway use. Less than 3000 miles a year. Car is seeing significantly less miles per year than with the previous owner.
- Texas weather
- Vehicle owned for only a few months
I plan to stick with 5W30 and what is readily available. Quick lubes aren’t using boutique oils by any means so any name or store brand will do. I’m certain either option would be perfectly fine but thought why not get feedback from the crew.
- 5W30 blend and economy filter at 6 month interval. Fall and spring most likely. Stick with what has worked.
- 5W30 FS and premium filter at one year interval. Spring or summer most likely. Change it up.
Just technical info and recommendations based on facts - no banter please… I wouldn’t want this place to be mistaken for a social media or anythingKidding of course banter away.
Once yearly --- QSUP 5w30 & Fram Tough Gard
SuperTech oil and SuperTech filter once a year.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
So you like the idea of ST oil and ST filter?.... great.
I am not fond of the oil, unless it;s the 20k Advanced. But the idea of ST filter is better than buying a higher trapping filter.
Let the oil flow well in that 2015. The ST filter works similar to today's redesigned OEM. Most of the HyunKia oil filter issues existed from 2010 to 2015, the year things got corrected with their oil lines - pump screen cloggings with shavings from soft, metallurgic rods / bearings.
They tried blaming the vehicle purchasers for using too restrictive of filters back then. But the Moss-Magnuson Act saved many of the victims for dishing out $$ for the repair. Many were settled in / out of court.
Let It Flow -- Let It Flow -- Let It Flow. Do once a year 3k OCIs. Tell daughter in a few more years you liked playing Dr. Daddy with her vehicle.
I am not fond of the oil, unless it;s the 20k Advanced. But the idea of ST filter is better than buying a higher trapping filter.
Let the oil flow well in that 2015. The ST filter works similar to today's redesigned OEM. Most of the HyunKia oil filter issues existed from 2010 to 2015, the year things got corrected with their oil lines - pump screen cloggings with shavings from soft, metallurgic rods / bearings.
They tried blaming the vehicle purchasers for using too restrictive of filters back then. But the Moss-Magnuson Act saved many of the victims for dishing out $$ for the repair. Many were settled in / out of court.
Let It Flow -- Let It Flow -- Let It Flow. Do once a year 3k OCIs. Tell daughter in a few more years you liked playing Dr. Daddy with her vehicle.
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Hermann
Site Donor 2023
THIS !
I’m more of a name brand kind of guy. But in reality, I realize it doesn’t matter. It is just a preference. I have no issue getting quick lube changes, and there is no guarantee that is “name brand” product.
I’ve debate using ST oil in the Toyota between name rebate seasons… so I emailed HW to get the data sheets on 10K and 20K ST 0W20. Based on what was provided, it see no difference between them. Maybe the comp percentages are different since it is just a range. But I don’t know. I would go with the cheaper 10K since I cannot determine if the 20K is actually better or worth the added cost. Attached the data sheet for reference.
Um, eww.
Attachments
Not the usual investigative tool, but after driving a car for 40k-50k I like to drop the oil pan and pick a couple of rod and main bearings to check for wear . If there is no measurable wear then I’m happy with the oil
With a new teenage driver, I'd be more concerned that the car makes it to it's next oil change more than what kind of oil I put it in it. 
In his situation, YES.
