Gates - PowerGrip Hose Clamps

[larryinnewyork]

Various types of Hose Clamps are available.
Each with Pros and Cons.

1) Screw Type
2) Constant Tension Type

Now I see Gates has a Shrinking Band type that you slide on the hose and use a heat gun.
I wonder how good they seal.
There called, PowerGrip SB Clamps

Question: Anybody use this type clamp, for how long and what are your thoughts

If I did use them, it would be for Radiator and Heater Hoses.

 

[HTSS_TR]

I think Constant Tension Spring Type is the best for Radiator and Heater Hoses. Most newer vehicles have this clamp.

 

[NHGUY]

Best type was the Corbin clamps Chrysler used to use.Narrow spring loaded,full circle and applied a lot of force in a narrow area.Problem,when you kept opening them,they lost tension.

 

[The_Eric]

Originally Posted By: larryinnewyork
Various types of Hose Clamps are available.
Each with Pros and Cons.

1) Screw Type
2) Constant Tension Type

Now I see Gates has a Shrinking Band type that you slide on the hose and use a heat gun.
I wonder how good they seal.
There called, PowerGrip SB Clamps

Question: Anybody use this type clamp, for how long and what are your thoughts

If I did use them, it would be for Radiator and Heater Hoses.


I use them- they work perfectly. Hot, cold, doesn't matter. Before using them at the shop, I was the guinea pig and put them on my 1979 F150. They even sealed the heater core connections where the worm gear style had troubles. I rounded the partially crushed heater core nipples (from having to continuously tighten the worm gear style) back out and used a new hose and the appropriately sized clamp- not a drop. Truck hold 13 or 16lbs pressure with zero issues. Even at the heater hose fitting in the block (which had no retaining lip). I fully expected the hose to blow off... obviously it didn't. Once the clamp shank and cooled, I grabbed the hose and gave a really healthy pull- nothing... didn't budge at all.

Assemble everything clean and dry, removing all corrosion and you'll be fine.

 

[UNC017]

Originally Posted By: NHGUY
Best type was the Corbin clamps Chrysler used to use.Narrow spring loaded,full circle and applied a lot of force in a narrow area.Problem,when you kept opening them,they lost tension.


Those worked GREAT when you had a new clamp, freshly installed on a new hose. The problem was that they compressed a deep groove in the hose over time and once you removed the hose and re-installed it, even if you were very careful to lay the clamp back in the original groove, it was a [censored] whether it would seal or not. And they were hard to get on/off without the special clamp pliers.

The new flat constant-tension clamps seal almost as well the first time without putting such a nasty groove in the hose.

The only concern I would have about the new heat-shrinkable ones is emergency roadside fixes being impossible. Its rarer with modern silicone-based hoses, but I have in the past done the roadside fix of shortening a hose and re-installing to fix a split near the connection. Can't do that with a non-reusable clamp!

 

[The_Jeff]

How do you get them off, with a knife? That would cut the hose underneath. Maybe get a pick under there to start.

I can think of serveral services that require clamp and hose removal and reinstalling. Sometimes burping air from coolant even. Though this looks like a good problem solver.

 

[The_Eric]

They make a tool that cuts the clamp without damaging the hose.

 

[HangFire]

I put PowerGrips in the problem solver, or custom hose assembly category.

I'm using what Trav recommended, Constant Torque clamps and Hylomar Polyurethane sealant in the hose ends and the barbs.

 

[Merkava_4]

I prefer the constant tension type; the only drawback is you need to purchase a cable operated tool to reach them in remote areas and the tool can be pricy.

 

[George7941]

The Power Grip clamps are a bit pricey but worth the money. I use them on HD trucks and they eliminate cold flow leaks and eliminates the need to retighten hose clamps. They work really well.

RockAuto carries them.

 

[Traction]

I will never use a regular worm gear clamp again, after one getting blown off of 2 different cars. I use the constant tension clamp, that is a worm gear clamp, with a extra wrap of band, and a stack of spring washers under the screw. Work great. Found them at NAPA. About $5 a piece, but cheaper than the consequences. OEM spring clamps are good, but hard to find.

 

[Garak]

A lot of even the name brand worm gear clamps are getting rather shoddy these days. One of my businesses uses a lot, and I happened to need one some months ago. I had to throw away half a box because they were stripped from the factory. I was not impressed.

 

[Lapham3]

The worm clamps that say 'stainless' on the band, but the screw isn't=good grief!

 

[The_Eric]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
I prefer the constant tension type; the only drawback is you need to purchase a cable operated tool to reach them in remote areas and the tool can be pricy.


If you look at the Gates literature, their tension varies with temp, eliminating cold weather drips.

 

[CELICA_XX]

Here's a good video if you're interested in these clamps:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4O91YqHbp8c

 

[zzyzzx]

For what those Gates things cost, you can get the good type like the ones that come with your car.

 

[Vikas]

how do you get the heat gun 360 degrees around the clamp when it is buried down inside the tight engine compartment?

 

[The_Jeff]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
how do you get the heat gun 360 degrees around the clamp when it is buried down inside the tight engine compartment?


If it's like heat shrink tubing, wave one of those barbecue lighter things and click.

I wonder if the heat of the coolant is enough to shrink them, if you can get the hose to hold on long enough.

 

[The_Eric]

Gates claims that you need to be able to heat a minimum of 1/3 of their circumference for them to work properly.

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: Lapham3
The worm clamps that say 'stainless' on the band, but the screw isn't=good grief!
"Stainless" isn't the world's hardest alloy.