Full synthetic or EP?

Joined
Jan 29, 2022
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If I were you, I would go with Valvoline EP for it's triple digit molybdenum, and just change the oil every 5k miles.

You shouldn't be doing extended drain intervals on Ecoboost engines. Just do it every 5k miles, that's the best for Ecoboost engines.

Ecoboosts are tough on oil (this is not just my "personal opinion", it's a real thing. Fuel dilution and carbon is a big issue with these Ecoboosts. Just ask Ford techs, they deal with these engines everyday, and they will tell you extended intervals aren't good for Ecoboost engines.)

And I just can't wait for people to reply to me: "You can safely do 15k mile drain intervals on Ecoboost engines!! You are wrong, and you should be banned from bitog!!!"

Just please don't ridicule me for recommending 5k mile intervals on Ecoboost engines. I have a 13 year old 3.5 Ecoboost, with over 100k miles, and my engine still has the original cam phasers, timing chain, original turbos, and nothing else has been ever replaced other than the waterpump. All because I've been doing 5k miles oil changes since day one. Ive been running 0w20 on my Ecoboost, and my engine still runs perfect, with no issues at all.

You always hear horror stories of Ecoboost owners with rattling cam phasers and timing chain stretches with less than 60k miles, and that only happens to people that worship the phrase: "follow the owners manual".

Just use full synthetic oil, and change the oil every 5k miles, especially on Ecoboost engines.
 
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Mobil1 EP marketing claims its 20x more protection, the same claim is not on their regular m1. If you dont believe them, thats a different discussion…
 
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2.0 ecoboost engines don’t care, I’ve ran ours out to over 15k miles on the oil change, they will dilute the oil but it doesn’t seem to be bothered by it, my 2017 is at close to 138k miles and I’ve had zero issues other than an oil leak from the vacuum pump
 
Joined
Jan 28, 2022
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I would use the Valvoline EP, for the extra shot of Moly. My wife had a 2016 with the same power plant and needed a long block at 50K due to a failed head gasket. Get everything checked out before 60k if you’re still in warranty.
 
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Mobil1 EP marketing claims its 20x more protection, the same claim is not on their regular m1. If you dont believe them, thats a different discussion…


I read that it’s good for 20,000 miles but I don’t see the statement that it’s 20 times more protection.
 
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If it helps, I’m running Mobil 1 5W-30 EP and a Fram XG3600 (oversized filter) in my Focus ST, with the 2.0L turbo producing 252 hp. Burns no oil. I change it every 5k miles.
 

mpgo4th

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I had to go into Walmart for work today so I took a look around. Very few options at this time. Only EP oil in the shelves was the Castrol Edge EP. It was $30.xx a jug. I picked up a few of the Quaker State synthetic in 5 and 10w30. Not sure which one I’ll use yet. The 5w30 has a kv100 of 11.6 and a VI of 170. The 10w30 has a kv100 of 10.76 and a VI of 150. I called their tech line to ask which one would be better suited to a fuel diluting turbo 4 cylinder like mine. They wouldn’t give HTHS or Noak numbers out but said the official recommendation is to use the 5w30 because that’s what the manufacturer recommended. He did say that the 10w30 sounds like a good idea to him 👍. I also learned that the base oil in the synthetic QD is GTL. I didn’t know that. Makes sense because pennzoil and QS are owned by the same people. I feel like the 10w30 will shear less but I like the high for grade viscosity the 5w30 has.
 
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.... I picked up a few of the Quaker State synthetic in 5 and 10w30. Not sure which one I’ll use yet. .... I feel like the 10w30 will shear less but I like the high for grade viscosity the 5w30 has.
10W traditionally will be more base oil and less VM providing KV100 and HTHS. Possibly less of a chance of varnish and gum formation, along with less shearing.

I know a good oil in use and I ran this 10W30 in my snowblower across winter with recoil starting well below freezing . Ran great.
Given the fuel dilution issue with the mazda/ford 2.0 D.I engine I decided to run it in my Ford SUV. Ran much better than expected.

I may have received a "ringer" for a batch, but, "It be dang guud earl, Jarvis ! "
 

mpgo4th

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I went with the 5w30. It’s KV at 40c is almost identical to the 10w30 but the KV at 100c is actually higher than the 10w30. I’ll probably sample after this run to see how it held up. It will be my summer run of about 5k miles. The price is nice too.
A30413CD-5453-4820-BFBE-045214207BE9.jpeg
 
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Mobil1 EP marketing claims its 20x more protection, the same claim is not on their regular m1. If you dont believe them, thats a different discussion…
Protects for up to 20,000 miles between oil changes*

engine protection and protect critical engine parts for up to 20,000 miles between oil changes.*
UP TO ???
 

Foxtrot08

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Valvoline Extended Protection Full Synthetic SAE 5W-30 Engine Oil Advantages:
Innovative additive boosterto help protect against wear
Fortified detergent system to help reduce deposits, sludge, andvarnish formation
Enhanced thermal and oxidative stability
Flows easily at lowtemperature for enhanced cold start protection

That is from the Valvoline website PDS. You pulled up information from the mobile one website that I never mentioned or asked about. Like I said, every post I read from you is trying to contradict somebody else who posted above you. If that’s what you enjoy doing by all means have fun, I was just curious if that was your goal or if that’s just the way you come across. Anyway, thank you for your response I welcome all opinions and experiences from all members here.


I'm sure a chemist will be along to correct me. However at the extremely basic level, additives have to share space on metal contact parts. So your detergents, which keep metal surfaces clean, have a polar head which binds to the surface of the metal and a non-polar tail.

Your corrosion inhibitors - basically, work the same way. Same goes with your rust inhibitors, even to a 'point' your ZDDP, moly, etc. They all are fighting for the real-estate on metal surfaces to stick to.

Since there is only X amount of space, for Y amount of additives, the formulator (ad pack creator) has to decide which is more important to formulate with. There is no magic wand and 'we have 10X more detergents!' - Okay, what did you give up? EP? Anti Corrosion? There has to be a trade off in the formulation somewhere.

However Vavoline's PDS is word soup. "Innovative additive" and "Fortified detergent system" I mean, those words together mean technically nothing. They just sound real great strung together.


Note, I'm not saying Vavoline is bad. I'm just starting you have Marketing and you have reality. The reality is, every additive package is formulated for some level of trade off. Just like every oil is formulated for some level of trade off. Why don't we use PAO/POE's in everything? Well, it's a trade off. Why are Syn blends still the best selling products out there? Again, trade offs.

Pick your trade off, try not to buy into marketing hype.
 
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Dec 17, 2009
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Just put WM's ST synthetic to it.
I have. Sheared to 8.6 in 3k miles. The UOA is posted here.
Is this the link?
If so, that's not for SuperTech, strictly speaking.
 
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