OP has a turbo, yours isn't.
Frustrating Dealer Experience
- Thread starter racer12306
- Start date
OP has a turbo, yours isn't.
What are your oil change intervals? How long have you been using SuperTech 0w16? Just curious because the SuperTech 0w16 just started showing up locally in our store.
SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
Situation like the OP's.... Well even though against it and being treated that way, I still would have allowed them to do one simple oil change. The refusal can come back and bite one in case of future issues. It is very sad they pulled this "stunt" but it is not a big surprise.
Yea I don't understand why people pick specific battles with possibly difficult repercussions. The oil change to avoid a negative notation on the vin. would be cheap peace of mind. Hell just had dinner at Flemings steak house with wife. $191 +$39 tip. Oil change pretty cheap.
I let the dealer change the oil and other fluids as needed under warranty. I don’t need the hassle down the road. At least the Acura dealer will let me bring oil and filter of my choice and cut be a break on the cost of the oil change
Thanks for that information.
I feel like if I had known that situation, I wouldn't have been as concerned with HPL in the sump, however, I never intended of going straight to 10k without evidence. My main concern was with the possible dilution, plus the turbo.
Too often, the complimentary first oil change at the dealer comes with a complimentary car wash and swirl mark application also.
In the last Three years I have purchased a ford raptor , a black escalade e s v. And a ford maverick. I don't understand the context of the oil change.Having anything to do with the paint. I will keep them until the warranty expires. Two of them are hundred thousand dollar vehicles. I want my warranty intact And service records when I sell them privately. Yes The two expensive vehicles have been Serviced by the dealer. Never have they been washed by the dealership at my request. Confused of the point. Discussion was the point of Keeping warranty Indisputably intact.
It was a delayed response to the other thread where a guy got his car back from an oil service at the dealer, and his car was covered with swirl marks from the dealer's own wash rack. Whatever; back to your regularly scheduled program.
That means little imo, the HPL is going to do a much better job cleaning than supertech. I don't know what he had before but dark oil means it's doing its job.
Unfortunately dealers suck, In my WRX for example, came factory with an "STI short shifter" and the dealer put "Aftermarket shifter" on my service receipts, then asked me for 5 stars
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Update...
After the reprogramming in April, I changed the oil that weekend with M1EP 5w30 with the illustrious MS-13340 spec. In early June, the same condition occurred (hesitation, CEL) and a restart allowed it to drive normal and the light cleared itself shortly after.
Took it in, same code, this time they identified the oil control valves. I made sure that the oil level was perfect before I dropped it off, including a time stamped picture for my own records. Their comments included that it had an aftermarket filter (Carquest Blue) and they require that I get an oil change when they change the oil control valves because they needed to know that a Mopar filter was on it. Because of their insistence and not wanting the BITOG pearl clutching again, I obliged.
Took a couple weeks to get in back in due to parts ordering and then I asked questions about the oil change, I had seen a sign that they would use your oil, so as I had made the switch to M1EP, I was going to have them use that. However, they were now saying that they needed to know it had factory oil in it.
The advisor seemed quite perturbed that I was even asking but I explained that I prefer to use the same oil all the time. Finally got out of them that they use PUP (also MS-13340).
So you can bet your behind that this Jeep will have PUP and Mopar filters for the rest of it's life.
In case anyone is curious...
Oil change: $15 labor
Filter: $13.45
PUP: 5 x $14.00
$106.45
In for the vilification
After the reprogramming in April, I changed the oil that weekend with M1EP 5w30 with the illustrious MS-13340 spec. In early June, the same condition occurred (hesitation, CEL) and a restart allowed it to drive normal and the light cleared itself shortly after.
Took it in, same code, this time they identified the oil control valves. I made sure that the oil level was perfect before I dropped it off, including a time stamped picture for my own records. Their comments included that it had an aftermarket filter (Carquest Blue) and they require that I get an oil change when they change the oil control valves because they needed to know that a Mopar filter was on it. Because of their insistence and not wanting the BITOG pearl clutching again, I obliged.
Took a couple weeks to get in back in due to parts ordering and then I asked questions about the oil change, I had seen a sign that they would use your oil, so as I had made the switch to M1EP, I was going to have them use that. However, they were now saying that they needed to know it had factory oil in it.
The advisor seemed quite perturbed that I was even asking but I explained that I prefer to use the same oil all the time. Finally got out of them that they use PUP (also MS-13340).So you can bet your behind that this Jeep will have PUP and Mopar filters for the rest of it's life.
In case anyone is curious...
Oil change: $15 labor
Filter: $13.45
PUP: 5 x $14.00
$106.45
In for the vilification
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2022
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Dirty, low, isn't that what gas station attendants used to say when checking the oil (I'm old enough to remember that, it was when I was in HS).
I'm a bit naive as it wasn't until about 2008 that I realized SA's actually know zero about vehicle service and maintenance, they are sales people and hand picked to make money for themselves and the dealerships.
2007 BMW with comfort access which is keyless entry. I was told you are not putting your fob in the dash. If you don't put it in the dash, the car will stall because the battery in the fob isn't charging. I said, but it has a 2032 coin cell inside, it doesn't charge in the dash? SA took the attitude I am not going to argue with you, if you don't want to put it in the dash and your car stalls, you were warned. I thought, this guy is an idiot. But that was the first time I realized they don't know anything.
Believe it or not, from 1998 to 2008 I was treated well by a Nissan dealer which is why I thought they know what they were talking about lol And I remember this too--a 60k "MAJOR" service which had a lot of stuff to include plugs and manual transmission gear oil replacement, was $300 and with a 20% coupon $240. Imagine that?
I'm a bit naive as it wasn't until about 2008 that I realized SA's actually know zero about vehicle service and maintenance, they are sales people and hand picked to make money for themselves and the dealerships.
2007 BMW with comfort access which is keyless entry. I was told you are not putting your fob in the dash. If you don't put it in the dash, the car will stall because the battery in the fob isn't charging. I said, but it has a 2032 coin cell inside, it doesn't charge in the dash? SA took the attitude I am not going to argue with you, if you don't want to put it in the dash and your car stalls, you were warned. I thought, this guy is an idiot. But that was the first time I realized they don't know anything.
Believe it or not, from 1998 to 2008 I was treated well by a Nissan dealer which is why I thought they know what they were talking about lol And I remember this too--a 60k "MAJOR" service which had a lot of stuff to include plugs and manual transmission gear oil replacement, was $300 and with a 20% coupon $240. Imagine that?
you are playing an expensive game using any oil other than spec.....not saying hpl is no good....its great but that does not matterTook our 2024 Wrangler in for a CEL with 15k miles, P0017.
Turns out there is a TSB 18-011-25 for this situation. A part of that TSB is to inspect the oil for metallic debris. There was none. However, they made the statement to me on the phone and on the RO, "oil is 1/2qt low and dirty" and that I declined the oil change on the phone and that oil needs to be changed immediately.
As many of you do, I keep a closer eye on my vehicles than the average owner, especially this car because we've only had it for 10k miles, so these statements surprised me.
Drove it home (this thing warms up quick so it got to temp), let it sit for approximately 5 minutes (per manual) and this was the result:
View attachment 273991
This oil (HPL PCMO 5w30) has right at 5000 miles on it. Looks perfect to me.
Service advisor and then service manager stands by what was "observed." When I stated that it had about 5000 miles on the oil, the response was it's due at 5000 miles so it needs to be changed, which is contrary to the manual as well. The manager gave me the phone number to call Chrysler and give my information for the record, which I did. I've also documented my findings, phone call notes, etc on my side.
I expressed my concern about such a statement in the event of future warranty concerns and he said that these statements wouldn't be used in warranty determination. I find that hard to believe when a several thousand dollar turbocharger, engine, etc is on the line. At least I have good records.
Just an overall disappointing experience, especially because I used to hold this dealer in a higher regard because they've fixed some things for me that I figured would be very challenging to even diagnose.
I know HPL doesn't hold the official Mopar oil spec approval and this experience makes me question if I should make sure to use an officially approved oil in warranty. M1 EP ain't so bad right?
i suggest cooking the books a bit by buying some in spec oil cheap...........and keeping the reciepts while in warranty. they will fight tooth and nail to get out of a warranty claim
Not going to worry about that now. It’s going to have PUP and a Mopar filter for a while.
I do have a great UOA from the HPL run. I’m choosing to not post it, it was a just in case UOA.
I was happy to see dilution in the 2.5% area.
You were just asking for it. Why would you show up for a warranty engine repair, especially a VVT related one, with an aftermarket oil filter installed?
GON
$150 Site Donor 2025
I was taught (right or wrong) that dark oil is a sign that the oil is doing its job. Clean looking oil was reported in a automative class I attend years ago of an oil not doing its job. One of the jobs of oil that was taught was to collect the dirt, carbon, etc that occurs from operating an internal combustion engine.
GON
$150 Site Donor 2025
OP,
What is your mission? To utilize oil in your vehicle to its full use, or to have the least number of hurdles/ challenges if you want to make a warranty claim on your engine?
Remember your mission.......
What is your mission? To utilize oil in your vehicle to its full use, or to have the least number of hurdles/ challenges if you want to make a warranty claim on your engine?
Remember your mission.......
I would not be happy with that, but, I do not have experience with your engine.......
Have you ran a cleaner with PEA like Regane or Techron? It might help drop the numbers of dilution.
It’s called GDI.
