Frustrated noob (on synthetics.)

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Okay, I've searched these forums high and low for the past several months, but I can't seem to find concrete evidence, or the evidence I do find just doesn't full answer my question. Pardon the long post.

Here's my situation, I drive an '89 Toyota 4x4 Pickup, 22R/e I4, 5 speed manual. It has 148,000 miles on it, tuned up, runs like a champ (knocks on wood), and doesn't burn any oil. I don't put many miles on it at all, as my life only makes for about 2000 - 2500 miles a year, so I change my oil every 6 months. I heard all the praises of Mobil 1 back when I first bought the truck (Nov. '05), but now that I've changed the oil 4 times since I bought the truck (wow, that's not much), I'm wondering if my $30+ oil change is really necessary, as the truck barely sees use, much less extreme use! I never see WOT, I cruise about 3 miles in the city, but then it's 12 miles of highway cruising. I baby the truck by letting it warm up for about 30 seconds before I take off, the truck is garaged all year, and it never makes short runs, only my 15 mile commute two times a week. It lives at operating temperature!

So here's my dilemma:
(Keep in mind that I use a factory Toyota filter because they have an anti-drain-back valve, and I really like supporting my local dealer, who happens to sell them for $3.50).

I'm not so sure I like Mobil 1 anymore ($6 a quart Base III, not passing the savings to the consumer...
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)
I do like Castrol Syntec, but it's even more. ($7 a quart!)
I'm really liking Valvoline Synpower ($4.50 a quart), but mainly just for the price.
My OCI is ALWAYS 6 months. I never hit the 3000 mark and I guess I'm kind of old fashioned.

What do you guys think I should go with? Should I switch back to conventional, or go with a blend? I'd really rather stay synthetic! Cost isn't really an issue, however, I am green with envy when I hear you guys' stories about getting oil for pennies per quart!
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I also would love to cut cost now that I'm in college, but $40 every six months is no biggie, so whatever.
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Feel free to throw out any other oils you think I should consider, 10W-30 is what I run.

Thanks!
 
DuraBlend or MaxLife. Try Havoline if you never have before. It's a new and pretty high-tech formula.
 
We all have our own opinions but any (properly rated/weight) oil is going to perform fine in your application.

For whatever it's worth, I've used Mobil 1 in many applications over the last 10 years (from 60HP daily drivers to 800 HP turbocharged engines) and I've never had a reason to consider anything else.

T
 
I'm not too keen on running syn in an almost 20 year old vehicle that only gets 2-3k miles a year. conventional every 6 months would be good enough for me.
 
I have a 1985 22r Toyota 4x4 with 135,000 miles. I currently have Shell Rotella Synthetic 5w-40 in it now. I change it roughly every 9 to 12 months or so 5,000 to 7,500 miles. Cost is right at $17 a gallon at China-Mart bit more at other stores. Well respected oil - solid UOA. I have run Mobil 1 15w-50 years ago and it made it a bit pokey. Runs fine with RTS 5w-40

Another promising oil is Mobil 1 HM 10w-30 or 10w-40 $20 for a 5 quart jug @ China Mart bit cheaper than RTS. I really don't see much reason to run an oil that cost over $4.50 a quart. If I had to pay $6+ per quart for synthetic I'd run dino for $2 a quart and change at 3000 miles. This oil is a real sweet spot @ $4 a quart.

Yes you do want to stick with the Toyota Filter due to timing chain tension issues. Toyota filters I'm running now allow a very brief noise from the timing chain. Also no mess when you pull the filter.
 
Not sure about 6 month OCIs since I use the MMS/OLM strongly as a good guide. If you ever try something more conventional, you can look below to see I have used synthetics, blends and also dino (DC5k). Honestly, I really didn't see that much exponential difference between Mobil's Drive clean dino and semi-synthetics to their full synthetic Mobil 1. I would maybe categorize the difference at marginal at best. I've had more quantifiable(since I've done few UOAs, only relying heavily on other BITOGers) benefits(mainly butt-dyno) and FE (MC)from blends then synthetics. If you want the best bang for your buck as you mentioned, then go with a good blend for your specific vehicle. That is my final answer FWIW.

I too, like you, was disappointed with M1s results and went back to blends. You, at 6 month OCIs, might not be able to lay claim to that benefit.
 
I second the MaxLife (semi-syn would be fine).

But you can check adds in your Sunday paper for Advance Auto for sales, or PepBoys (for *sigh* rebates), on synthetic oils like Pennzoil Platinum, and just empty the shelves stocking up...
 
Jcfb, first of all
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to our community.

If you are jealous about our good oil deals go to an O'Reilly and pick up the Valvoline Synpower that you want. It's FREE after rebate. Hope you have one in your area. Good luck.
 
I suspect I'm in the minority, but I try to determine which synthetic oil is best for my vehicles and price per quart is almost immaterial. Compared to all the other operating costs for any vehicle, oil changes are inexpensive but very important.

I'm making some assumptions, but let's say your Toyota uses 5 quarts of oil each change, and you change it twice a year. I'm in Canada, but prices shouldn't be too different so let's say good synthetic oil costs you $4 per quart MORE than a decent dino oil. That means over the course of a year, and two oil changes, you pay a total of $40 more to use a synthetic. You could extend the oil change interval, etc. with synthetic but let's leave that out of the equation.

That $40 annually works out to 11 cents per day. My number may not be exact, but I personally believe synthetic offers better protection and the cost difference is insignificant.
 
penzoil or gtx once or twice a year.. or find a synthetic on sale, advance will have buy one get on frees every now and then... just find whatever on sale. this isnt a big deal at all and at 144k miles you can use whatever oil you want.. those lil motors are tough.. the only advantage the syn has is its less likely to breakdown when heated above avg and oxidation.. oh fuel dilution too...
 
Actually, upon reading the mileage, I'd stick with a 10W-30 synthetic, but only do it once a year (with periodic long drives at highway speeds)...
 
Hey thanks for the welcome!

I'm kind of in the same boat with BullyT. I want the best oil for my vehicle, however, it needs to be both available (Amsoil is pretty tough to get right around my house) and semi-cost-efficient. I don't mind spending the money on the oil change if it means I am getting a better oil, but I'm just not so convinced of that anymore
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Thanks for the suggestions! I think I may go SynPower my next oil change (November.) I am also thinking about going to the German Castrol, but I am still unsure of putting in a 0W in my truck, since it calls for 10W. Any thoughts on this?

Also, the ol' Toyota calls for a 80W-90 gear oil in everything other than the engine (transmission, transfer case, front and rear differentials). I currently have Mobil 1 synthetic 75W-90 in there right now and am very pleased with it, but again, I'm not so impressed with Mobil 1 anymore, so any suggestions for other gear oils would be welcomed.

Thanks!
 
Amsoil can be delivered right to your door, so I'm not sure why you think its not available.
 
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Amsoil can be delivered right to your door, so I'm not sure why you think its not available.




I was under the impression that you had to either buy it from an Amsoil dealer/distributor, or become one yourself.
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