Finally, proof for the 5K mile oil change, or something to laugh at/BITOG fodder

XL can go a lot longer than that. It's a 10-12k mile engine oil. At those OCI's just use OE or a Walmart Syntec. That's not a DI engine I believe. Waste not...
The new extended life is a 20K oil. Which is in there now. Same interval. I’m not brave enough to push the envelope, lol. My wife’s Pilot is DI and use SS in that. I follow the olm because of that.
 
You’d have the same result with any off the shelf oil at that low of a mileage. That’s what makes it a scam
Would you consider the Signature Series a scam too? What do you recommend for a majority group 4/5 synthetic for extended oci’s?

Personally I consider calling a majority group 3 oil synthetic a scam. But that’s just me.
 
Would you consider the Signature Series a scam too? What do you recommend for a majority group 4/5 synthetic for extended oci’s?

Personally I consider calling a majority group 3 oil synthetic a scam. But that’s just me.
They are superior oils that are complete overkill for what 90%+ of users use them for, and most other oils would do the job just as well.
 
They are superior oils that are complete overkill for what 90%+ of users use them for, and most other oils would do the job just as well.
I think I see what you're saying, but that's on the consumer. If you buy prime ribeye then trim off all of the fat, you should have just bought select to begin with.

But, that's on the buyer, and buyer beware.

Most others would do the job. You really only need a " better oil" if you are running it longer

At 5-7.5k, oil is mostly just oil whether you pay 20 bucks for 5 quarts or 100 bucks for 5 quarts.

If I'm running oil for 20k, oil is not just oil.
 
Sounds like we agree. And I still try to find the best off the shelf I can for my 5k intervals, but I’m not going to pay double the price for boutique and dump it early.
 
I think I see what you're saying, but that's on the consumer. If you buy prime ribeye then trim off all of the fat, you should have just bought select to begin with.

But, that's on the buyer, and buyer beware.

Most others would do the job. You really only need a " better oil" if you are running it longer
Or if you're driving a high performance car much harder than the average person, then there are oils that can handle that task better.
 
I think I see what you're saying, but that's on the consumer. If you buy prime ribeye then trim off all of the fat, you should have just bought select to begin with.

But, that's on the buyer, and buyer beware.

Most others would do the job. You really only need a " better oil" if you are running it longer

At 5-7.5k, oil is mostly just oil whether you pay 20 bucks for 5 quarts or 100 bucks for 5 quarts.

If I'm running oil for 20k, oil is not just oil.
Wut ? I might trim some lean meat off that ribeye 😵‍💫
 
Doesn't change a thing for me, I've been using 5k OCI's on all of my vehicles for decades. Seems reasonable and have always had good UOA's. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"....
 
Artwork in post #62: Re girl in blue dress in right foreground. Where is her left forearm?

Also, what does "subscribe" mean? It's like when video people say, "I'll put it in a link below". Where is below?
 
I wonder how many people here base their oil change frequencies on the size of their stashes?
When I did 3K drains I always had cases and cases of an appropriate grade laying around. When I started using syns I daringly went as long as 6K on drains, but at the time MIR deals on syns abounded, so I always had plenty on hand.
Today, I'm not nearly as thrilled about oil changes and I go with the manufacturer's recommendations. In the case of the HAH, a drain at around 9K, which I do, leaves 20-30% reaming on the MM but still seems decently long. Also, with this car, the engine spends a substantial portion of power on time not running, so actual miles on engine run will be 10-20% less than actual miles run on the car.
 
You can't see oxidation resistance in a VOA, among other things.

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