Filter changes during the break-in period

[Eulogium7]

Honda does not recommend a short oil change for the factory fill.

The factory fill is enriched with the moly assembly lube and this adds a bit more cushion for the break in process.

I run a filter mag and there is always just a bit of material on it.

I switched over to an Ester based oil around 60K and found int liberated carbon despite prior SN/SN+ high quality oils being used.

The Ridgeline forum is your friend for great advice, torque specs and part numbers for a variety of things you'll need.

I used Valvoline EP 5w-30 for the early change, since it has a lot of moly and a sizable amount of boron (though not as much as the OEM 0w-20 it came with). Wanted the heavier viscosity because of all the news about bearing failures, so I just wanted to kind of give them a helping hand.

Which oil do you use now, and do you think the carbon deposits are coming from the crankshaft or elsewhere? And yeah, I'm definitely gonna register there - been lurking those forums for a while now and have been active on the Ridgeline subreddit for a little bit.

 

[BrendanC]

I used Valvoline EP 5w-30 for the early change, since it has a lot of moly and a sizable amount of boron (though not as much as the OEM 0w-20 it came with). Wanted the heavier viscosity because of all the news about bearing failures, so I just wanted to kind of give them a helping hand.

Which oil do you use now, and do you think the carbon deposits are coming from the crankshaft or elsewhere? And yeah, I'm definitely gonna register there - been lurking those forums for a while now and have been active on the Ridgeline subreddit for a little bit.

the EP 5w-30 will treat you well

 

[ZeeOSix]

Which oil do you use now, and do you think the carbon deposits are coming from the crankshaft or elsewhere?

Carbon deposits are going to be from combustion blow-by and/or the rings getting carbon deposits on them from coked oil.

 

[fantastic]

You're right ... both should be swapped out for a more efficient filter during break-in.

Nah, their both very good for the job.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Nah, their both very good for the job.

Note to self ... use the most inefficient oil filter during break-in when there's way more debris in the oil.

 

[fantastic]

Note to self ... use the most inefficient oil filter during break-in when there's way more debris in the oil.

Until you can provide ISO efficiency data for a more efficient filter, for OP specific model to use, I stand by my comment.

 

[UncleDave]

I used Valvoline EP 5w-30 for the early change, since it has a lot of moly and a sizable amount of boron (though not as much as the OEM 0w-20 it came with). Wanted the heavier viscosity because of all the news about bearing failures, so I just wanted to kind of give them a helping hand.

Which oil do you use now, and do you think the carbon deposits are coming from the crankshaft or elsewhere? And yeah, I'm definitely gonna register there - been lurking those forums for a while now and have been active on the Ridgeline subreddit for a little bit.

I tried HPL and have continued running it.
I did not believe I would see any notable difference in my filters ( I cut every one ) but I did.
It's documented here.

I started with 0-20 and moved to 5-30.

My guess is that it came from the rings.

 

[thastinger]

Context: I have a new vehicle, Honda Ridgeline with a J35y8 NA GDI engine, and I changed the oil out at around 600 miles. I also changed the stock Honda filter to a Purolator Boss at that time. I plan on changing the oil 2 more times before the free dealer-provided service: once at 1,500 and again at 3000.

Question: Would you personally find it worth the cost and effort to change the oil filter during either of those two planned oil changes given that the engine is still breaking in and probably shedding metallic wear particles? Cost is less the issue than effort - anyone who's changed the oil filter on their Pilot, Passport, Ridgeline or Odyssey knows how annoying it is. I am committed to doing these early oil changes, though, and if wimping out on changing the oil filter would nullify those benefits then I'll do it.

You probably got the majority of the break-in metals out with the 600 mile service but I would change the filter the other 2 times you plan to do it as well.

 

[JohnnyJohnson]

Aren't you supposed to use the OEM Honda filter while under warranty?

LOL along with OEM gas and air for your cars engine.

 

[Hermann]

So you threw out Honda's breakin oil. With the extra moly and breakin lubes. Mmmmm

 

[dedonderosa]

There must be a reason Honda would run a less efficient filter. Probably for less bypass events.

Honda has always cared more about flow then filtration. i know many people who have ran the A02 filters for well over 200k+ miles on Hondas with 0 issues. Personally i would rather run an A02 then a Purolator IMO. If i could pick any filter for any of my Hondas then it would be an A01 but A02 is fine.

 

[Reloader59]

Stay with the BOSS filter. it is well made and filters more than well enough. I use it on my 23 RAV4 Hybrid. I also use HPL. W-2 Premium Plus.

 

[Eulogium7]

So you threw out Honda's breakin oil. With the extra moly and breakin lubes. Mmmmm

I was aware of the moly which is why I went with the Valvoline EP that has a lot of it. What other kind of breakin lubes does it come with?

 

[Hohn]

So you threw out Honda's breakin oil. With the extra moly and breakin lubes. Mmmmm

I was aware of the moly which is why I went with the Valvoline EP that has a lot of it. What other kind of breakin lubes does it come with?

I don't think Honda uses anything special in factory fill oil-- to my knowledge, that's a myth. If one is in love with moly doping, there are many ways to achieve that.

 

[Hermann]

Mostly it is leftovers from assembly lubes. The high moly count is from the oil they use and those lubes. Valvoline EP is good stuff, I'm sure it will do what ur aspiring to accomplish. My personal plan for new vehicles is 2K, 6K. 12K AND THEN EVERY 7K

Enjoy the Ridgeline!

 

[UncleDave]

I don't think Honda uses anything special in factory fill oil-- to my knowledge, that's a myth. If one is in love with moly doping, there are many ways to achieve that.

Honda does not use special break in oil.
The most common factory fill is normal Idemitsu.

The factory fill is different from every one afterward because of moly laden assembly lube used during the engine build.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Until you can provide ISO efficiency data for a more efficient filter, for OP specific model to use, I stand by my comment.

Anything is more efficient than the Boss at 99% >46u.

 

[UncleDave]

Anything is more efficient than the Boss at 99% >46u.

Except maybe an A02!

 

[ZeeOSix]

Honda has always cared more about flow then filtration.

Why do people think that's the case? Has anyone seen the dP vs flow curve for the Honda OEM filters? Did BR at least test one?

 

[ZeeOSix]

Except maybe an A02!

Or the Toyota OEM seen to be around 51% @ 20u. Hard to say what the Toyota OEM would be at 99% without seeing the efficiency curve, but I'd bet it's similar to the Boss and XP, as Wix once claimed the XP was 50% @ 20u before they made it a "proprietary" efficiency. Back when these ISO 4548-12 tests were done, the Honda A02 came in better than the Toyota.