Everstart Failure in 3 Years and now They have changed their designs?

[Ang]

My Everstart Plus 600CCA 730CA From 2022 has been used in 2 cars going under 1000 miles a year on average, Recently the car did 2500 miles over 3 months and is now being used again. Yesterday while going to a few stores it started cranking slower and slower, and when I got home it said 99CCA. Drove 2 Miles and Left it overnight and it was at 450CCA. Car ran an hour Today and now it's sitting at normal voltage again Showing 686CCA, will check again tomorrow as it's out of the car now, Very weird.

Looking at Walmart for a new one the Plus is now 600 CCA 750CA And has Maintenance Caps, The Value And Maxx Do now too. Did they change Manufacturers, Or just using a different shell now?
Im looking at Home Depots Exide, only $130 for 750CCA And a 3 Year warranty matching the Everstart Maxx at a lower price.

 

[JayhawkRoy]

If you are only doing 1000 mi annually, suggest putting the battery on a battery minder. I used to own some older vehicles & tractors that I didn't put lot of miles on, and the battery minder helped out a lot.

For one of my trucks, I bought a $69 solar minder that plugged into one of the 12V outlets. I sold the truck, and the battery itself was still good at 9 years old OEM.

 

[Ang]

If you are only doing 1000 mi annually, suggest putting the battery on a battery minder. I used to own some older vehicles & tractors that I didn't put lot of miles on, and the battery minder helped out a lot.

For one of my trucks, I bought a $69 solar minder that plugged into one of the 12V outlets. I sold the truck, and the battery itself was still good at 9 years old OEM.

Even less.
The battery was charged probably at least once a month and then this summer was maintained by large solar panel with mppt (though not at full voltage so it wasn't fully charged).
I can agree that I am probably partially at fault for the earlier failure, it's just weird that it suddenly failed after using the car for 2500 miles, but then now it's testing good again.

I have yet to find a solar panel all in 1 made for cars that isn't complete garbage. I have 2 sitting on one car and they manage to keep it fine as 1 wasn't enough, another one I had melted the wire in the sun and now I'm trying an OBD II one in one of my cars.

 

[Lubener]

Sounds to me that your run times are insufficient to keep the battery charged and recover from the demands which are placed on it. I don't believe the battery is bad. It seemed to recover since you measured almost 700 CCA.

 

[JayhawkRoy]

Even less.
The battery was charged probably at least once a month and then this summer was maintained by large solar panel with mppt (though not at full voltage so it wasn't fully charged).
I can agree that I am probably partially at fault for the earlier failure, it's just weird that it suddenly failed after using the car for 2500 miles, but then now it's testing good again.

I have yet to find a solar panel all in 1 made for cars that isn't complete garbage. I have 2 sitting on one car and they manage to keep it fine as 1 wasn't enough, another one I had melted the wire in the sun and now I'm trying an OBD II one in one of my cars.

Here is what I purchased four years ago. Current price about the same as what I paid for in Amazon about four years ago.

SUNER POWER Waterproof 12W 12V Solar Battery Charger & Maintainer Pro, Built-in UltraSmart MPPT Charge Controller, 12 Volt Solar Panel Trickle Charging Kits for Car Automotive Boat Marine RV Trailer​

4.5 4.5 out of 5 stars (2,435)


Amazon's Choice
2K+ bought in past month
$59.99 with 14 percent savings-14% $59.99

 

[Snagglefoot]

My Everstart Plus 600CCA 730CA From 2022 has been used in 2 cars going under 1000 miles a year on average, Recently the car did 2500 miles over 3 months and is now being used again. Yesterday while going to a few stores it started cranking slower and slower, and when I got home it said 99CCA. Drove 2 Miles and Left it overnight and it was at 450CCA. Car ran an hour Today and now it's sitting at normal voltage again Showing 686CCA, will check again tomorrow as it's out of the car now, Very weird.

Looking at Walmart for a new one the Plus is now 600 CCA 750CA And has Maintenance Caps, The Value And Maxx Do now too. Did they change Manufacturers, Or just using a different shell now?
Im looking at Home Depots Exide, only $130 for 750CCA And a 3 Year warranty matching the Everstart Maxx at a lower price.

I’ve found it’s luck of the draw on whether they have maintenance caps. I’ve never seen a choice for a particular model number. Ie both with caps and without. Models come and go as if they bid each batch.

 

[Ang]

Sounds to me that your run times are insufficient to keep the battery charged and recover from the demands which are placed on it. I don't believe the battery is bad. It seemed to recover since you measured almost 700 CCA.

Were yes, But not anymore.
I still don't know if the battery is good or bad, but becoming barely functional and then going right back to perfect isn't normal, all I can do is give it 24-48 hours and then test it for final confirmation.

 

[Ang]

Here is what I purchased four years ago. Current price about the same as what I paid for in Amazon about four years ago.

SUNER POWER Waterproof 12W 12V Solar Battery Charger & Maintainer Pro, Built-in UltraSmart MPPT Charge Controller, 12 Volt Solar Panel Trickle Charging Kits for Car Automotive Boat Marine RV Trailer​

4.5 4.5 out of 5 stars (2,435)


Amazon's Choice
2K+ bought in past month
$59.99 with 14 percent savings-14% $59.99

That's an absolutely absurd price. You can get Minimum 12W if not higher everywhere for half of that any day. But yes I should spend the money and buy one for every car that goes over OBD II to keep it simple.
Or I need to just disconnect every battery when I park the cars that just sit.

 

[The_Jeff]

How are you testing the battery, resistive load or capacitance? Resistive is better.

You've got something bad "rattling" around in there, sometimes causing problems, sometimes not. Batteries can fail and still crank the engine good, but have next to no capacity. Several ways they can fail. You need a new one.

Walmart contracts with all the major battery manufacturers depending on region. You must be "just on the line" between two vendors. You can tell the vendor by the first two letters in the serial number. JC=Clarios, EP=Deka, etc.

My Saturday dump run truck works just fine being driven five miles once a week. I do throw it on a tender probably twice a year. It's a 91 F150 with an old school alternator that pumps 14+ volts all the time, not a modern gas-saving variety.

 

[JimPghPA]

Ang, so what you are saying is you bought walmarts 2 year rated battery, then abused it by putting it in vehicles that dont get driven often, and it still lasted 3 years and now your trying to squeeze more use out of it.

That battery delivered beyond what was promised. It and Walmart oue you nothing.

Buy another and move on.

 

[Ang]

How are you testing the battery, resistive load or capacitance? Resistive is better.

You've got something bad "rattling" around in there, sometimes causing problems, sometimes not. Batteries can fail and still crank the engine good, but have next to no capacity. Several ways they can fail. You need a new one.

Walmart contracts with all the major battery manufacturers depending on region. You must be "just on the line" between two vendors. You can tell the vendor by the first two letters in the serial number. JC=Clarios, EP=Deka, etc.

My Saturday dump run truck works just fine being driven five miles once a week. I do throw it on a tender probably twice a year. It's a 91 F150 with an old school alternator that pumps 14+ volts all the time, not a modern gas-saving variety.

It's a Conductance tester, I'll have to get a real load tester.

I bet if it was used in something like a Chevy it would be better, my GMC will never kill a battery if it sits for 3 months. But it's used in a Honda, and they kill batteries in a few weeks.

 

[SC Maintenance]

It's a Conductance tester, I'll have to get a real load tester.

I bet if it was used in something like a Chevy it would be better, my GMC will never kill a battery if it sits for 3 months. But it's used in a Honda, and they kill batteries in a few weeks.

I have had pretty good luck with those little testers. No, there not particularly accurate - but there good enough for this type of use. +/- 10% maybe?

Batteries are not built like they used to be. My record low was 1 month on an OEM Nissan Battery - no idea who made it. Dealer replaced for free obviously. Record was about 4 years on a 2 year made in Spain Everstart.

Yours likely got sulfated. You could likely bring it back with a good charger or just toss it and start over. For batteries that sit a long time I think an AGM might be a better option because they have a lower self discharge. You will of course need to put it on a proper AGM charger maybe once a month or so.

 

[Ang]

How are you testing the battery, resistive load or capacitance? Resistive is better.

You've got something bad "rattling" around in there, sometimes causing problems, sometimes not. Batteries can fail and still crank the engine good, but have next to no capacity. Several ways they can fail. You need a new one.

Walmart contracts with all the major battery manufacturers depending on region. You must be "just on the line" between two vendors. You can tell the vendor by the first two letters in the serial number. JC=Clarios, EP=Deka, etc.

My Saturday dump run truck works just fine being driven five miles once a week. I do throw it on a tender probably twice a year. It's a 91 F150 with an old school alternator that pumps 14+ volts all the time, not a modern gas-saving variety.

It's a Conductance tester, I'll have to get a real load tester.

I bet if it was used in something like a Chevy it would be better, my GMC will never kill a battery if it sits for 3 months. But it's used in a Honda, and they kill bate

I have had pretty good luck with those little testers. No, there not particularly accurate - but there good enough for this type of use. +/- 10% maybe?

Batteries are not built like they used to be. My record low was 1 month on an OEM Nissan Battery - no idea who made it. Dealer replaced for free obviously. Record was about 4 years on a 2 year made in Spain Everstart.

Yours likely got sulfated. You could likely bring it back with a good charger or just toss it and start over. For batteries that sit a long time I think an AGM might be a better option because they have a lower self discharge. You will of course need to put it on a proper AGM charger maybe once a month or so.

Once I'm done repairing an AGM I have I will definitely try to fix this one before buying that Exide Sprinter. AGM isn't an option unfortunately since the car isn't made for it and I don't want to have to keep charging the battery. Now that the car is being used again it shouldn't ever need charging.

The battery has been sitting out of the car for 20 hours now and this is its test results, aka perfect. Other than running the speakers for 30 minutes in accessory a few days ago there is no explanation for it going to 95cca days later and then right back up.

 

[SC Maintenance]

It's a Conductance tester, I'll have to get a real load tester.

I bet if it was used in something like a Chevy it would be better, my GMC will never kill a battery if it sits for 3 months. But it's used in a Honda, and they kill bate

Once I'm done repairing an AGM I have I will definitely try to fix this one before buying that Exide Sprinter. AGM isn't an option unfortunately since the car isn't made for it and I don't want to have to keep charging the battery. Now that the car is being used again it shouldn't ever need charging.

The battery has been sitting out of the car for 20 hours now and this is its test results, aka perfect. Other than running the speakers for 30 minutes in accessory a few days ago there is no explanation for it going to 95cca days later and then right back up.

View attachment 314632

Thats not a valid test because your testing with the charge over-voltage residual still on it - 12.91 Volts. You need to put a small load on it for a few minutes and then retest. A fully charged resting battery is 12.66 Volts - in theory. I will say however that 4.35 milli Ohms resistance is very encouraging.

It may have pulled down to <100CCA because its sulfated and has a internal short? Not sure - that is odd.

 

[JimPghPA]

Thats not a valid test because your testing with the charge over-voltage residual still on it - 12.91 Volts. You need to put a small load on it for a few minutes and then retest. A fully charged resting battery is 12.66 Volts - in theory. I will say however that 4.35 milli Ohms resistance is very encouraging.

It may have pulled down to <100CCA because its sulfated and has a internal short? Not sure - that is odd.

Gang, its the Plus version of walmarts batteries. The have the Value with a 1 year life expectancy, the Plus with a 2 year life expectancy, and the MAXX with a 3 year life expectancy.

It lasted a year beyond its design. Flogging this dead horse ain't gonna pull the wagon.

Either op is super cheap about batteries, or needs additional education in that field, or this entire thread is click bate.

If money is a factor, go to a auto salvage yard. They get vehicles in all the time with batteries that have plenty of life left in them.

 

[FZ1]

My Everstart Plus 600CCA 730CA From 2022 has been used in 2 cars going under 1000 miles a year on average, Recently the car did 2500 miles over 3 months and is now being used again. Yesterday while going to a few stores it started cranking slower and slower, and when I got home it said 99CCA. Drove 2 Miles and Left it overnight and it was at 450CCA. Car ran an hour Today and now it's sitting at normal voltage again Showing 686CCA, will check again tomorrow as it's out of the car now, Very weird.

Looking at Walmart for a new one the Plus is now 600 CCA 750CA And has Maintenance Caps, The Value And Maxx Do now too. Did they change Manufacturers, Or just using a different shell now?
Im looking at Home Depots Exide, only $130 for 750CCA And a 3 Year warranty matching the Everstart Maxx at a lower price.

Don't like Exide. Get a Walmart AGM. Looks like you need the 4 year warranty.

 

[Ang]

Thats not a valid test because your testing with the charge over-voltage residual still on it - 12.91 Volts. You need to put a small load on it for a few minutes and then retest. A fully charged resting battery is 12.66 Volts - in theory. I will say however that 4.35 milli Ohms resistance is very encouraging.

It may have pulled down to <100CCA because its sulfated and has a internal short? Not sure - that is odd.

I put a 100W load for 5 minutes and it hit 11.89V and immediately jumped back to 12.5V But provided 389CA out of 600 9.65 Resistance, And then 443CA 8.47 Resistance 12.6V guess that right there indicates it's not good to go back in the car. Ill let it sit now and test again.

 

[Ang]

Gang, its the Plus version of walmarts batteries. The have the Value with a 1 year life expectancy, the Plus with a 2 year life expectancy, and the MAXX with a 3 year life expectancy.

It lasted a year beyond its design. Flogging this dead horse ain't gonna pull the wagon.

Either op is super cheap about batteries, or needs additional education in that field, or this entire thread is click bate.

If money is a factor, go to a auto salvage yard. They get vehicles in all the time with batteries that have plenty of life left in them.

Walmart Everstart batteries are pretty good, they generally last a long time. I already know I'm to blame for it's less than great life.
I'm not cheap about it, but if it's good I'm not going to replace it. For now I've already stolen an Exide Sprinter from my GMC to go in here, wrong size but it works, in the spring I'll pick up a brand new battery.

 

[Ang]

Don't like Exide. Get a Walmart AGM. Looks like you need the 4 year warranty.

What's wrong with Exide?
AGM isn't an option the car came with FLA and doesn't put a high enough voltage to fully charge the AGM. Now that I use the car a lot I can finally not have to constantly charge it, I don't want to have to start charging the AGM again. It's either Exide or another everstart I guess.

Apparently Toyota OEM has 60 months, I don't know if that counts since I don't have a Toyota.

 

[Chris142]

What's wrong with Exide?

Exide used to be the worst for leaking and sudden failure. Plus they contaminated a large area at their plant. Cost millions to clean up.