Enginemasters new episode 4/30 oil filter showdown!

Don't care about bypass or pressure relief at IDLE.
Like I said, I would love to see the same filter flow/psi comparison provided at idle obviously with hot engine oil...
On an engine with a non-worn out healthy oil pump, you won't see any real difference.

You just can't admit being wrong. PD addict. As I said before, not as PD as you want it to be. Not a perfect world. Positive displacement pumps, pump reliefs, media flow, media bypass do not work in perfection. Accept it! Video proves that filter flow affects pump flow. Filter flow affects after filter pump PSI. No one has proved otherwise yet. Really sad is those that want to use filters multiple times, and aren't measuring after filter flow or PSI. Little hint.... when the media starts loading up, guess what happens to after filter flow and pressure... guess... figure it out and I promise you it isn't a good thing.
If an oil filter effects oil pressure at idle, then most likely the PD pump is worn out and more down steam flow resistance caused more pump slip. Not all oil pumps are designed the same, and not all perform the same - especially as they get high mileage on them depending on how the engine was cared for. How do you know in the video that that the pressure relief wasn't cracking slightly?

I have proven to myself that 5 different brands of oil filters didn't change any oil pressure vs RPM in my Z06 (with a very healthy pump) from idle to 6000 RPM with hot oil. And that's because they all flowed well enough to never make the oil pump hit pressure relief. Of course, if a filter becomes really clogged up it's probably going to make the pump hit relief at higher RPM, or it could reduce oil pressure if the oil pump isn't in very good health and slipping more when not in pressure relief.

Can anyone else here think open minded enough to understand what I am saying. If you can see almost a 5 psi and almost a gallon of oil flow lost per minute when comparing freeflowing or no filter to a restrictive(working) filter, what would happen at idle? The same thing! But, it probably won't be as drastic. And, it could definitely be the difference between a flickering low pressure idiot light on the dash on no idiot light flashing. Even an automaker agrees.... use a freeflow filter if you have a problem with the pressure or related CEL. Thats rocket science for those without uncommon sense. Another option, a few more oil visc cst to make up for it helps too, but offends the MPG crowd.


There was a lot going on with that engine (with 171,000 miles on it) in that thread, and the filter looked to be pretty loaded up too. If the filter "caused" the lower oil pressure, then the flow resistance difference was most likely causing a worn out oil pump to show it's ugly head.
 
I thought this was a pretty good episode for what the stated purpose was-- is there a noticeable difference in pressure and/or flow for race applications?

They aren't @Ascent Filtration Testing and they pretty well miffed the micron ratings. If you're on this forum, you should know there is an efficiency difference between an Extra Guard and an Ultra Guard. Do your own research on that and corroborate with their test results.

Erhmagerd DF called the Extra Guard and Tough Guard endcaps "cardboard"!!!1! How dare he?? Yeah they look like the back cover of a notebook.

This video backed up pretty common knowledge here. If you have a racecar and you're more concerned about making sure your engine has oil flow and pressure, and you're going to change the oil frequently anyway, get a K&N or other racing filter.

Beyond that, there isn't much difference between "standard" filters in terms of flow and pressure, and particularly in the scope of making power.
 
That's enough for me. We even have members on here telling people to tap, rattle and shake before putting it on :ROFLMAO: Its a $25 filter to me.

No offense, but if one instance of something going wrong is enough for you...then there is no filter on the market today that is good enough for you. I can guarantee you that there is not one filter out there that hasn't had a failure or some sort.
 
That's enough for me. We even have members on here telling people to tap, rattle and shake before putting it on :ROFLMAO: Its a $25 filter to me.
There is more than one case. There have been pictures of folded up adbv in the base plate, and the episode of finding three rattling Ultras in one Walmart. There was one recent case must be what they mean. Anything to down play. It’s still a good filter but it’s so far the only filter ever shown to have destroyed an engine due to a defect. I don’t know why there is so much brand bias for the Fram filters. Why telling it like it is does not apply to Fram. The army will be here like clockwork soon.
 
There is more than one case. There have been pictures of folded up adbv in the base plate, and the episode of finding three rattling Ultras in one Walmart. There was one recent case must be what they mean. Anything to down play. It’s still a good filter but it’s so far the only filter ever shown to have destroyed an engine due to a defect. I don’t know why there is so much brand bias for the Fram filters. Why telling it like it is does not apply to Fram. The army will be here like clockwork soon.
I’m not down playing anything. Haven’t seen the adbv folding or heard of the rattling cans at Walmart. Can you share the links or source? Would be interested in seeing what you mention.
 
There is more than one case. There have been pictures of folded up adbv in the base plate, and the episode of finding three rattling Ultras in one Walmart. There was one recent case must be what they mean. Anything to down play. It’s still a good filter but it’s so far the only filter ever shown to have destroyed an engine due to a defect. I don’t know why there is so much brand bias for the Fram filters. Why telling it like it is does not apply to Fram. The army will be here like clockwork soon.
Telling it like it is doesn't seem to really apply to any filter. You should know this after seeing the naysayers on the brands that have media tears, cut ADBVs, closed louvers, leaky base seams, etc over the last 10 years.
 
Don't care about bypass or pressure relief at IDLE.
Like I said, I would love to see the same filter flow/psi comparison provided at idle obviously with hot engine oil...
If you don't care about bypass or pressure relief at idle, then you don't understand how any of this operates.
Can anyone else here think open minded enough to understand what I am saying. If you can see almost a 5 psi and almost a gallon of oil flow lost per minute when comparing freeflowing or no filter to a restrictive(working) filter, what would happen at idle?
It doesn't require an open mind, just a fundamental misunderstanding of how all this stuff works together and is connected.
The same thing! But, it probably won't be as drastic.
Wrong.
And, it could definitely be the difference between a flickering low pressure idiot light on the dash on no idiot light flashing. Even an automaker agrees.... use a freeflow filter if you have a problem with the pressure or related CEL.
Not unless your junk is particularly unhealthy or you are using a wholly inappropriate lube for the application at hand.

And none of your observations made in your first post are "gotchas" on how a PD pump operates either, it just betrays your lack of understanding of the operation.

Let's use an example scenario here, germane to the OP:

- You have an engine with a pump whose relief is set at 75psi
- This pump moves 1.25gpm per 1,000RPM increment
- You use a filter which has a bypass pressure setting of 15psi
- You have oil pressure being measured both before and after the filter for the sake of this experiment
- You are running a 5w-30, which is the OEM spec for the vehicle

At start-up our engine rev's to 1,500RPM, this results in:
- Oil pressure observed on gauges of 40psi after the oil filter, 45 psi before the oil filter, indicating the bypass is not active
- You are still below the relief pressure on the pump, so all oil pumped is going through the engine
- 1.875gpm flowing through the filter and engine

You start driving, the transmission shifts at 2,500RPM, this results in:
- Oil pressure observed on gauges of 55psi after the oil filter, 65psi before the oil filter, indicating the bypass is not active
- You are still below the relief pressure on the pump, so all oil pumped is going through the engine
- 3.125gpm flowing through the filter and engine

You are going out on the highway but there's a big truck coming so you accelerate heavily to 5,500RPM and your engine is still cold, this results in:
- Oil pressure observed on the gauges of 60psi after the oil filter, and just touches 75psi before the oil filter, indicating the bypass is becoming active, as is the relief
- You are now at the relief pressure on the pump, so some oil will start bypassing internally in the pump back to the feed side, limiting flow
- 6.25gpm is being moved by the pump, but we are limited to around that volume by the pressure relief, driving the pump faster does not increase flow within the limits of the relief

You reach cruising speed, which is 2,000RPM, this results in:
- Oil pressure observed on gauges of 45psi after the oil filter, 48psi before the oil filter, indicating the bypass is not active and the oil is thinner now
- You are below the relief pressure on the pump, so all oil pumped is going through the engine
- 2.5gpm flowing through the filter and engine

You come to a stop light, your engine returns to idle, which is 750RPM, this results in:
- Oil pressure observed on gauges of 25psi after the oil filter, 26psi before the oil filter, indicating that the bypass is not active and the oil is up to temp
- You are below the relief pressure on the pump, so all oil pumped is going through the engine
- 0.9375gpm flowing through the filter and the engine

You decide to do some red light racing, bringing engine RPM up to 7,500, this results in:
- Oil pressure observed on gauges of 75psi after the oil filter, 85psi before the oil filter, indicating the bypass is not active
- You hit 75 psi before the oil filter at 6,000RPM, capping your volume at 7.5gpm while relief pressure is maintained
- You are beyond the relief pressure on the pump, so >7.5gpm is being moved through the engine
- 9.375gpm is being moved by the pump, with some of that volume being shunted back to the inlet side

You go home, drain your oil and fill it with 20w-50. That night, it gets down to -10C. You start your car that morning and it rev's to 1,500RPM, this results in:
- Oil pressure observed on gauges of 55psi after the oil filter, 72 psi before the oil filter, indicating the bypass is active
- You are below the relief pressure on the pump, so all oil pumped is going through the engine
- 1.875gpm flowing through the engine, some of that is not being filtered

The engine settles down to 750RPM, this results in:
- Oil pressure observed on gauges of 45psi after the oil filter, 60psi before the oil filter, indicating the bypass is active
- You are below the relief pressure on the pump, so all oil pumped is going through the engine
- 0.9375gpm flowing through the engine, some of that is not being filtered

You drive down the street and hit 2,500RPM, this results in:
- Oil pressure observed on gauges of 55psi after the oil filter, just coming up to 75psi after the oil filter, indicating the bypass is active and we are hitting relief pressure
- You are now hitting the relief pressure on the pump, so volume, at this pressure is capped, not all oil pumped is going through the engine
- 3.125gpm flowing through the engine, some of that is not being filtered

You don't like how sluggish your car feels now, so you change out your oil to 0w-16. You start your engine, it brings the engine RPM up to 1,500RPM, this results in:
- Oil pressure observed on gauges of 30psi after the filter, 40psi before the filter, indicating the bypass is not active
- You are below the relief pressure on the pump, so all oil pumped is going through the engine
- 1.875gpm is flowing through the engine and filter

The engine settles down to 750RPM, this results in:
- Oil pressure observed on gauges of 20psi after the filter, 25psi before the filter, indicating the bypass is not active
- You are below the relief pressure on the pump, so all oil pumped is going through the engine
- 0.9375gpm is flowing through the engine and filter

You go for a drive and end up at a red light, with the engine now up to temp at 750RPM:
- Oil pressure observed on the gauges is 8psi after the filter, 10psi before the filter, indicating the bypass is not active
- You are below the relief pressure on the pump, so all oil pumped is going through the engine
- 0.9375gpm is flowing through the engine and filter
- Your oil light is now flickering, indicating inadequate pressure


There are three things that will cause a sufficient differential across the filter to activate the bypass:
- Cold, thick oil, attempting to be moved at significant volume
- Extremely high volumes of oil, which happens at high RPM
- Plugged filter media

Creating a post-filter pressure deficiency at idle would require plugged media or low oil pressure. If you had 25psi before the filter and the filter was totally plugged with a 15psi differential bypass, you could be at 10psi post filter, but that's not a problem with filter selection, you've got other issues that have resulted in the filter being plugged. On the other hand, if you've got a 5psi differential at idle and that's causing your oil light to flicker, then you've got either a worn engine or a very inappropriate lubricant selection being made, as that's 15psi on the feed side for that to be happening. On a Windsor, she's got no rod bearings left in her at that point.
 
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There is more than one case. There have been pictures of folded up adbv in the base plate, and the episode of finding three rattling Ultras in one Walmart. There was one recent case must be what they mean. Anything to down play. It’s still a good filter but it’s so far the only filter ever shown to have destroyed an engine due to a defect. I don’t know why there is so much brand bias for the Fram filters. Why telling it like it is does not apply to Fram. The army will be here like clockwork soon.
I use Fram oil filters filters , they are lower end filters.
 
If you don't care about bypass or pressure relief at idle, then you don't understand how any of this operates.

It doesn't require an open mind, just a fundamental misunderstanding of how all this stuff works together and is connected.

Wrong.

Not unless your junk is particularly unhealthy or you are using a wholly inappropriate lube for the application at hand.

And none of your observations made in your first post are "gotchas" on how a PD pump operates either, it just betrays your lack of understanding of the operation.

Let's use an example scenario here, germane to the OP:

- You have an engine with a pump whose relief is set at 75psi
- This pump moves 1.25gpm per 1,000RPM increment
- You use a filter which has a bypass pressure setting of 15psi
- You have oil pressure being measured both before and after the filter for the sake of this experiment
- You are running a 5w-30, which is the OEM spec for the vehicle

At start-up our engine rev's to 1,500RPM, this results in:
- Oil pressure observed on gauges of 40psi after the oil filter, 45 psi before the oil filter, indicating the bypass is not active
- You are still below the relief pressure on the pump, so all oil pumped is going through the engine
- 1.875gpm flowing through the filter and engine

You start driving, the transmission shifts at 2,500RPM, this results in:
- Oil pressure observed on gauges of 55psi after the oil filter, 65psi before the oil filter, indicating the bypass is not active
- You are still below the relief pressure on the pump, so all oil pumped is going through the engine
- 3.125gpm flowing through the filter and engine

You are going out on the highway but there's a big truck coming so you accelerate heavily to 5,500RPM and your engine is still cold, this results in:
- Oil pressure observed on the gauges of 60psi after the oil filter, and just touches 75psi before the oil filter, indicating the bypass is becoming active, as is the relief
- You are now at the relief pressure on the pump, so some oil will start bypassing internally in the pump back to the feed side, limiting flow
- 6.25gpm is being moved by the pump, but we are limited to around that volume by the pressure relief, driving the pump faster does not increase flow within the limits of the relief

You reach cruising speed, which is 2,000RPM, this results in:
- Oil pressure observed on gauges of 45psi after the oil filter, 48psi before the oil filter, indicating the bypass is not active and the oil is thinner now
- You are below the relief pressure on the pump, so all oil pumped is going through the engine
- 2.5gpm flowing through the filter and engine

You come to a stop light, your engine returns to idle, which is 750RPM, this results in:
- Oil pressure observed on gauges of 25psi after the oil filter, 26psi before the oil filter, indicating that the bypass is not active and the oil is up to temp
- You are below the relief pressure on the pump, so all oil pumped is going through the engine
- 0.9375gpm flowing through the filter and the engine

You decide to do some red light racing, bringing engine RPM up to 7,500, this results in:
- Oil pressure observed on gauges of 75psi after the oil filter, 85psi before the oil filter, indicating the bypass is not active
- You hit 75 psi before the oil filter at 6,000RPM, capping your volume at 7.5gpm while relief pressure is maintained
- You are beyond the relief pressure on the pump, so >7.5gpm is being moved through the engine
- 9.375gpm is being moved by the pump, with some of that volume being shunted back to the inlet side

You go home, drain your oil and fill it with 20w-50. That night, it gets down to -10C. You start your car that morning and it rev's to 1,500RPM, this results in:
- Oil pressure observed on gauges of 55psi after the oil filter, 72 psi before the oil filter, indicating the bypass is active
- You are below the relief pressure on the pump, so all oil pumped is going through the engine
- 1.875gpm flowing through the engine, some of that is not being filtered

The engine settles down to 750RPM, this results in:
- Oil pressure observed on gauges of 45psi after the oil filter, 60psi before the oil filter, indicating the bypass is active
- You are below the relief pressure on the pump, so all oil pumped is going through the engine
- 0.9375gpm flowing through the engine, some of that is not being filtered

You drive down the street and hit 2,500RPM, this results in:
- Oil pressure observed on gauges of 55psi after the oil filter, just coming up to 75psi after the oil filter, indicating the bypass is active and we are hitting relief pressure
- You are now hitting the relief pressure on the pump, so volume, at this pressure is capped, not all oil pumped is going through the engine
- 3.125gpm flowing through the engine, some of that is not being filtered

You don't like how sluggish your car feels now, so you change out your oil to 0w-16. You start your engine, it brings the engine RPM up to 1,500RPM, this results in:
- Oil pressure observed on gauges of 30psi after the filter, 40psi before the filter, indicating the bypass is not active
- You are below the relief pressure on the pump, so all oil pumped is going through the engine
- 1.875gpm is flowing through the engine and filter

The engine settles down to 750RPM, this results in:
- Oil pressure observed on gauges of 20psi after the filter, 25psi before the filter, indicating the bypass is not active
- You are below the relief pressure on the pump, so all oil pumped is going through the engine
- 0.9375gpm is flowing through the engine and filter

You go for a drive and end up at a red light, with the engine now up to temp at 750RPM:
- Oil pressure observed on the gauges is 8psi after the filter, 10psi before the filter, indicating the bypass is not active
- You are below the relief pressure on the pump, so all oil pumped is going through the engine
- 0.9375gpm is flowing through the engine and filter
- Your oil light is now flickering, indicating inadequate pressure


There are three things that will cause a sufficient differential across the filter to activate the bypass:
- Cold, thick oil, attempting to be moved at significant volume
- Extremely high volumes of oil, which happens at high RPM
- Plugged filter media

Creating a post-filter pressure deficiency at idle would require plugged media or low oil pressure. If you had 25psi before the filter and the filter was totally plugged with a 15psi differential bypass, you could be at 10psi post filter, but that's not a problem with filter selection, you've got other issues that have resulted in the filter being plugged. On the other hand, if you've got a 5psi differential at idle and that's causing your oil light to flicker, then you've got either a worn engine or a very inappropriate lubricant selection being made, as that's 15psi on the feed side for that to be happening. On a Windsor, she's got no rod bearings left in her at that point.
Sorry sir, I do understand how it operates. Do you see what the thread is about? The test jig used in the video, and the data provided? And a data point that would answer the question that so many have posted on this forum and others why their engine is quieter or louder with certain filters, which some want to believe to be impossible because of a PD pump? So please, skip the silly lesson that has nothing to do with the video or data in it. One more data point at idle on that brand new engine would've nailed a coffin in the PD pump foolishness.

Fundamental understanding? That has nothing to do with the point in the video or in this thread. A FILTER MAKES A DIFFERENCE WITH FLOW AND PSI IN THE ENGINE. How their engine responds is for the owner to see or hear. At least now they'll know why without someone saying it makes no difference because its a PD pump.

And, I don't want silly make believe scenarios, all I hoped is that the 3 stooges from MT could've easily provided a little more test data.... idle flow and PSI among all filters. That is it.

I am truly sorry if it is so difficult for some to understand. If you engine makes noise with a filter, of if your engine has a low PSI dash idiot light with a filter, but not other filters, than don't use that filter. Its restricting flow and PSI in the engine. That is it.
On an engine with a non-worn out healthy oil pump, you won't see any real difference.


If an oil filter effects oil pressure at idle, then most likely the PD pump is worn out and more down steam flow resistance caused more pump slip. Not all oil pumps are designed the same, and not all perform the same - especially as they get high mileage on them depending on how the engine was cared for. How do you know in the video that that the pressure relief wasn't cracking slightly?

I have proven to myself that 5 different brands of oil filters didn't change any oil pressure vs RPM in my Z06 (with a very healthy pump) from idle to 6000 RPM with hot oil. And that's because they all flowed well enough to never make the oil pump hit pressure relief. Of course, if a filter becomes really clogged up it's probably going to make the pump hit relief at higher RPM, or it could reduce oil pressure if the oil pump isn't in very good health and slipping more when not in pressure relief.



There was a lot going on with that engine (with 171,000 miles on it) in that thread, and the filter looked to be pretty loaded up too. If the filter "caused" the lower oil pressure, then the flow resistance difference was most likely causing a worn out oil pump to show it's ugly head.
So, the engine in the test video was worn out so much so that measure flow and PSI can only be caused by engine wear and tear?

There is no most likely caused.
 
So, the engine in the test video was worn out so much so that measure flow and PSI can only be caused by engine wear and tear?

There is no most likely caused.
Go back and read it again, I was talking about the thread you referenced about the vehicle with 171,000 miles on it. The one with what looks like a clogged up filter, and probably a weak oil pump.

The healthy oil pump on my Z06 worked perfectly with 5 different brand of oil filters like I explained earlier. All gave the same exact oil pressure from idle to 6000 RPM, with the same oil (Mobil 1 5W-30) at 200F. Oil pump was not in pressure relief either, so no big surprise on the outcome.

When engines start showing symptoms of low oil pressure at idle, there's a lot more going on than just a PSI or two difference of delta-p across two new oil filters.
 
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171k to me isn't an old engine. Tired.... sure its a downward trip for ALL engines after they peak. This video answers the question in that thread along with hundreds of others. Your filter makes a difference in flow and PSI.
 
171k to me isn't an old engine. Tired.... sure its a downward trip for ALL engines after they peak. This video answers the question in that thread along with hundreds of others. Your filter makes a difference in flow and PSI.
My Z06 must be some unicorn because I saw no oil pressure differences at all. An engine with 171,000 miles could be worn pretty bad depending on how it was used and maintained.

Only time an oil filter is going to change flow and pressure is if the oil pump is a bad performer or worn badly (slip sensitive to slight down stream resistance) when not in pressure relief.

Just how much flow resistance (delta-p) do you think a new oil filter has at an idle with hot oil?
 
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It's funny how people seem to just echo the opinions they hear about filters as fact. I'll be the first to say I jumped on the Orange Can of Death bandwagon early on, until I learned more about fiber end caps. This was emphasized to me when I cut open a used Motorcraft FL-400s and the metal endcaps had separated from the glue that held them together on both the top and the bottom of the filter. Now I wouldn't be afraid to use an orange can and they are actually a decent filter for under $4 with the new silicone ADBV.

The only filters I really stay away from are the Purolators, since I've personally cut open some that had torn media, and K&N since I've personally seen some that leaked around where the nut is on the end of the can.
 
Sorry sir, I do understand how it operates.
You clearly don't. I can explain it for you, but I can't understand it for you.
Do you see what the thread is about? The test jig used in the video, and the data provided?
Yes, they measured pressure after the filter, while you'll notice my test scenario gave pressure before and after the filter so that you could see the differential across the filter media. Former member Gary Allan actually ran this test in the past. This also allows you to see when the relief on the pump is activated and when the bypass on the filter came into play.
And a data point that would answer the question that so many have posted on this forum and others why their engine is quieter or louder with certain filters, which some want to believe to be impossible because of a PD pump?
Unless the pump is on the relief, which requires a certain set of circumstances I laid out in my example scenarios, how do you propose the filter impacts flow?
So please, skip the silly lesson that has nothing to do with the video or data in it. One more data point at idle on that brand new engine would've nailed a coffin in the PD pump foolishness.
It's far from silly, your flippant response and inability to explain yourself is what's silly here.

Is your theory here that somehow the PD pump is going to engage the relief at idle, reducing flow? Because that's the only way flow is going to be impacted.
Fundamental understanding? That has nothing to do with the point in the video or in this thread. A FILTER MAKES A DIFFERENCE WITH FLOW AND PSI IN THE ENGINE.
No, a fundamental misunderstanding.
It has everything to do with the video and the thread.

To further clarify:
- A filter can have an impact on flow, once the relief on the pump comes into play. A more restrictive filter, clogged filter...etc can cause the pump to go onto the relief earlier than a less restrictive filter. But this requires sufficient pressure to engage the relief on the pump. Below that pressure, flow is unaffected.

- A filter can have an impact on observed oil pressure after the filter, depending on how heavy the oil is, the temperature of the oil, volume of oil being pushed through it...etc. This creates a delta, which is the differential observed between the feed side of the filter and the outlet side. I already provided numerous examples. HOWEVER, this does not change the volume of flow, which requires the activation of the relief on the pump.
How their engine responds is for the owner to see or hear. At least now they'll know why without someone saying it makes no difference because its a PD pump.
That's a baseless assertion predicated on no data.
And, I don't want silly make believe scenarios,
There is nothing silly about the scenarios presented, they well-explain how the system functions. What's silly is your vapid allusions to having found some "gotcha" in the statements made about PD pump operation based on wild theory and now a video that doesn't capture sufficient data to in any way fortify your point.
all I hoped is that the 3 stooges from MT could've easily provided a little more test data.... idle flow and PSI among all filters. That is it.
They would also need to provide:
- Pump relief pressure
- Oil temperature, which they said they tracked, but didn't show
- Pressure BEFORE the filter, so that it was clear to see at what point the relief came into play and oil was being shunted back to the inlet side. They initially had it setup to measure it this way, but said they wanted it setup to measure after the filter. It was unclear as to which way they went with this.
- Differential pressure across the filter to show the pressure drop the filter is producing, which was easy enough to gather, but they didn't
- A proper understanding of the micron ratings of the filters

Screen Shot 2021-05-02 at 11.42.53 AM.png


The test starts at ~3,000RPM, at this point the engine is already producing 66psi. If this pump has a 60 or 65psi relief, it's already on the relief at the beginning of the test. If we look at coolant temperature, it's 86F, which is very cold.

With the pump already on the relief, it would completely explain the variance in flow volume, as a filter with more restriction is clearly going to flow less. If they moved the pressure measurement to after the filter, this will also show as less pressure, which seems to be consistent with no filter showing the highest pressure, whereas if it was before the filter, the most restrictive filter should show the highest pressure.

So this is a deeply flawed exercise with insufficient data presented and insufficient clarity on what was being measured.
I am truly sorry if it is so difficult for some to understand. If you engine makes noise with a filter, of if your engine has a low PSI dash idiot light with a filter, but not other filters, than don't use that filter. Its restricting flow and PSI in the engine. That is it.
That's not what it means. This again comes back to:
- Pressure drop across the media
- Function of the relief on the pump

As long as you aren't on the relief, FLOW is going to be the same. Observed pressure, after the filter, does not mean there is a change in flow, with the relief closed. If a couple psi in differential pressure is enough to trigger your oil light, you have mechanical problems.
 
The test starts at ~3,000RPM, at this point the engine is already producing 66psi. If this pump has a 60 or 65psi relief, it's already on the relief at the beginning of the test. If we look at coolant temperature, it's 86F, which is very cold.

With the pump already on the relief, it would completely explain the variance in flow volume, as a filter with more restriction is clearly going to flow less. If they moved the pressure measurement to after the filter, this will also show as less pressure, which seems to be consistent with no filter showing the highest pressure, whereas if it was before the filter, the most restrictive filter should show the highest pressure.

So this is a deeply flawed exercise with insufficient data presented and insufficient clarity on what was being measured.
Exactly ... and when people who don't totally understand the operation of an oiling system (and that the pump is in pressure relief), then they come to misleading conclusions - like an oil filter is going to effect pressure and flow even at idle. If oil pressure is effected at idle, there are some serious problems going on beside the filter, unless said filter is very clogged up. This is just another video that helps spread misconceptions because it was lacking in some technical content and explanations.
 
I really expected more from these guys and this episode. It could've been another shadetree backyard Youtube video. The "data" they collected shows nothing meaningful. No consideration for how micron ratings are advertised. Refers to the Fram end caps as "cardboard". 🤦‍♂️

I'm actually surprised they didn't use an Amsoil filter considering they are sponsored by them... or maybe they did, didn't give the results they hoped for, and they intentionally left it out of the final cut. Who knows. They really let me down in this episode in both how they conducted it and their knowledge of filters.

I have not seen the episode but seen it come up on the Motor Trend app and feel it will be the one Engine Masters episode I just never watch. Especially after reading about the episode.
 
No offense, but if one instance of something going wrong is enough for you...then there is no filter on the market today that is good enough for you. I can guarantee you that there is not one filter out there that hasn't had a failure or some sort.
The best filter is the one that install by oem lol
 
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