Engine oil flush recommendation.

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I thank you for your time and all the responses. I have 2 other vehicles as well, which each having over 100k miles on them.

My question is a general question (not specific to any particular vehicle or circumstance):

Is there a safe engine flush that is effective and won't damage the engine during the flush.

What about Amsoil engine flush (It mentions its safe enough to use with every oil flush).

Would prefer to learn about engine flushes with this post. Would like to tap the expertise on this board with real answers.

Please refrain from responses like: "Don't worry about it", or "How do you know engine is dirty".
 
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Originally Posted by GeorgeKaplan

Asked and answered.

Change the oil to any quality synthetic and drive it.



Agreed.

Even Super-Tech from Walmart changed every 5,000 miles should clean it up in no time.
 
Originally Posted by Bill7

Is there a safe engine flush that is effective and won't damage the engine during the flush.


Marvel Mystery Oil.

Add 8oz to the oil about 500 miles before each scheduled oil change.
 
Originally Posted by philipp10
Originally Posted by Bill7
Been doing conventional oil changes every 5k miles at Walmart (They used Quaker state conventional on my car). Recently realized it was dirty on bottom half of dipstick. Previously to noticing it, never really paid attention, and just had the oil changed every 5k miles.

"dirty on bottom half of dipstick".....what does that mean? Take the oil and touch it on some paper towels. Is it really that dirty? All cars show some dirt or darkened color after a thousand or so. You're over-thinking this.


Means the oil layer is thicker on the bottom end of the dipstick due to gravity (so it looks darker) when he's looking at it.

Bill7, have you actually looked inside the oil fill hole with a strong flashlight? What's it look like?

With the low mileage and 5000k oil changes, I can't imagine the engine being dirty at all.
 
Bill7,

It can be very hard to get straight answers to questions some times, huh?

I have used the Amsoil Flush on several of my engines. It is safe. Look at the life of my cars. It apparently hasn't hurt them.

Amsoil is the ONLY flush I would trust. I would also use their oil if I were concerned with cleaning.
 
I cannot speak for the rest of you, but I have not used an engine flush since the mid 1980's. Being from Pennsylvania, I grew up using Quaker State. By the early 1980's I jumped on the trendy bandwagon of Castrol GTX. Never before nor after have I seen an oil that would generate a milky foam like that early 80's garbage. Switched to Mobil1 Synthetics around 1985 and haven't looked back or lost sleep over it.
 
Originally Posted by Linctex
Originally Posted by Bill7

Is there a safe engine flush that is effective and won't damage the engine during the flush.


Marvel Mystery Oil.

Add 8oz to the oil about 500 miles before each scheduled oil change.


I second MMO or even Rislone...that stuff's been around since I bought my first car and I've used both SAFELY over the years. Or an oil with high detergents.

I just don't see how that car has/can develop that much sludge or varnish, it hasn't "lived" long enough. ...‚
 
Originally Posted by Bill7
I will be switching to Penzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-20 with my next oil change. Its the 2.4 Liter 4 cylinder engine.


Great choice.
 
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U dont need a flush, Just change oil on severe schedule. I would stick to 5-6k no matter what manufacture says. Use quality filter thats metal backed media like Wix XP or Fram ultra and send it. Quality Full syn like Mobile 1, Pens plat ultra or even Supertech Full syn.
 
Don't use a flush. Just use good synthetic and change it whenever the OLM or manual says to. My Toyota dipstick does the same thing. So does my Subaru. So did my old Honda and Nissan. You're overthinking, IMO.
 
I call engine flush products wallet flushes, but that's just my opinion. We use Amsoil's flush at work at the insistence of my boss on his vehicles and equipment, and it doesn't seem to hurt anything.
 
Originally Posted by Jesse_NE
I call engine flush products wallet flushes, but that's just my opinion. We use Amsoil's flush at work at the insistence of my boss on his vehicles and equipment, and it doesn't seem to hurt anything.



Amsoil's stance is their flush is to flush non Amsoil out of the engine before going straight into SS motor oil and 25K OCI's.
 
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
I just don't see how that car has/can develop that much sludge or varnish, it hasn't "lived" long enough. ...‚

As is the case with nearly every one of these "I think my engine is dirty and needs a flush" posts, there is no evidence at all that it needs one, only an imagined need. Without pulling the valve cover or oil pan and actually looking the "dipstick test" he listed is inconclusive.
 
Originally Posted by Bill7
When checking the oil 2,000 miles after an oil change: on the dipstick the level is fine, but the lower half of the oil on the dipstick is dirty while the top half is clean.


Unless you have a half inch layer of sludge on the bottom of the oil pan, this doesn't make any sense. The oil on the dipstick should be uniform since it keeps contaminants in suspension. Regardless, try flushing it with cheap motor oil and drain the oil filter, drive for 100 miles, then change to the oil of your choice and a new filter.
 
Originally Posted by Bill7
Hi,

I have a 2009 Honda Accord LX with 28,000 miles.
When checking the oil 2,000 miles after an oil change: on the dipstick the level is fine, but the lower half of the oil on the dipstick is dirty while the top half is clean.
Would like to do an engine flush that is effective, but also gentle / safe as I don't want to cause engine wear on such
a low mileage engine.

Does anyone have a good recommendation on an engine flush that is both effective and gentle (safe) for the engine?

What about Amsoil engine flush? I think Amsoil mentions its safe enough to use it with every oil change?

Thanks,
Bill


Amsoil is safe, unlike others that use heavy solvents. I keep seeing people talk about flushes, but they leave 10-20% of the used oil in the engine for another full OCI. So this percentage will now have twice the hours and miles, which contaminates the new oil, and exposes the engine to higher, wear contaminents, sludge, and combustion byproducts.. Complete a full flush between oil changes. Fully drain the sump for 15 minutes, and change the filter. For a 5 qt system, put four new, inexpensive, quarts in of the proper viscosity and API rating and drive it on the highway for 15 minutes, complete several WOT runs to ensure all oil is flushed out of the oil galleys in the head, and VVT solenoids or actuators if equipped. Drain the oil again. You will be shocked how dirty the oil is. . You will not be able to shine light through it. Install the oil you intend to use for the full OCI. I have taken pictures of the new oil, plus the old oil, and the mixed oil after 15 minutes. You cannot shiine light through it. Looking at a very thin layer of oil on a shiny dipstick is not reliable judge of the appearance of the oil. Particle counts will show that your new oil is heavily contaminated. Mine showed 8x the contamination, added wear(25% remained), loss of viscosity and TBN after only 15 miles of use. I did the same test with new oil, after flush, and I can still shine light through it and it is redish in color after 300 miles..

First pic is the new oil with the 10 - 20% of old oil. Regarless of the angle or brightness of the light, no light could be seen.

The second pic is of the new oil after the full flush, and 300 highway miles. An extra $15, of some inexpensive SuperTech oil and another 20 minutes of work will net you a clean sump for the next full OCI, possible longer OCIs.

20190615_161328.jpg


20190616_091007.jpg
 
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Bill7, do you mean that the dip stick is darker on the lower end after you wipe it off or that the oil is darker on the lower end when you pull it from the motor ? If you mean the oil on the stick is darker on the end, that's normal... if you mean the end of the stick is darker after you wipe it off, like it has baked on oil, that's different... and not so good...

I have a bottle of the Amsoil engine flush that I got when I was an Amsoil dealer... however, I never used it due to finding Marvel Mystery Oil and how effective it is... If you were close, I'd give you the Amsoil... it's probably the safest of all the "quick" engine flushes... but, again, MMO is what I recommend you use on a regular basis to clean up any build up in your engine... along with appropriate oil change intervals for your driving conditions.
 
Late to this rodeo. Just me but I would say no "flush. "

Me I'd pick whatever full synthetic (I'm a Mobil 1 fan) and do 5k oci for 50k and consider it clean.
 
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
I just don't see how that car has/can develop that much sludge or varnish, it hasn't "lived" long enough. ...‚

As is the case with nearly every one of these "I think my engine is dirty and needs a flush" posts, there is no evidence at all that it needs one, only an imagined need. Without pulling the valve cover or oil pan and actually looking the "dipstick test" he listed is inconclusive.


I call that the "solution in need of a problem" syndrome ...
 
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