Option #1 is always do nothing
Best oil leak stop products?
- Thread starter FTTSHO
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Might not hurt to spray some fogging oil into the cylinders to keep them lubricated and prevent corrosion while it sits. In three years when it is time to put it on the road, I'd put a 50-100 light miles on it to check for issues on it then put some fresh oil in there.
I wonder if there is anything to prevent the rotors from becoming completely rusted. I've had cars sit for 6 months outdoors and the rotors were trash. If this will be in a garage or under a car port that might be a different story.
I wonder if there is anything to prevent the rotors from becoming completely rusted. I've had cars sit for 6 months outdoors and the rotors were trash. If this will be in a garage or under a car port that might be a different story.
I had oil in my BMW 535 coolant from a suspected Oil Cooler leak. Of course, once these cars hit 100k, theres a good chance other leaks will appear, oil pan, valve cover etc. AT-205 was the quickest and most effective. Oil cooler was sealed after 2 hours of driving. Total back flush of cooling system worked after and 2 months later, no sign of leaking from oil cooler. Thinking I also had a valve cover leak only to discover by chance it was the Oil filler cap with a hardened gasket. AT-205 applied to the gasket for a few hours seemed to correct that issue. I wont hesitate to use this again should another leak arise. Not interested in putting any more repairs in the car other than additives.
I would not increase the viscosity if your vehicle calls for less. The two work differently. The concept for higher viscosity is not to swell hardened gaskets/seals, but to only thicken oil so it does not leak as easily. This can cause other issues however. IMHO.
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Before spending any money I would check and make sure all the pan and cover bolts are properly tightened, stopped many a leak just by tightening up finger tight bolts
Actually this may be a good idea. Alsoas many others said, high milage oils should be the first place to start, both because you get a formula that conditions the seals that is balanced by the manufacturer, but also because it does not really cost anymore than the regular oils anyways. Also bumping up the cold viscosity may decrease the leak. Persoanlly those three would be more first choices (tight bolts, high milage oil, a grade thicker oil). I have some reservations on Mobil 1 High Mileage oil, Valvoline or Pennzoil would be my go to
Owen Lucas
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I used the 2 bottles of Barsleaks 2-part Engine Repair on a friends RAV4 and it stopped timing cover leak.
The concern was more about leaking onto the driveway vs losing oil. Topping off is the easy part.
The concern was more about leaking onto the driveway vs losing oil. Topping off is the easy part.
As a few other have said.... ATP AT-205 ReSeal. I work at a parts store. This is the most expensive stuff we have in this catagory, but I've never had anyone some back say it didn't work. And a few customers I've seen again I have asked them how did it work and most said the leak stopped completely and a couple said it slowed it way down to a livable and usable point until they can get time to fix it the right way.
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- Dec 27, 2020
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Rislone Engine Oil Stop Leak, worked for me.
Nah, spreading them out every 2 or 3 oil changes over 3 vehicles
AT 205 is the best. Put a bottle in my 4 liter 24 year old jeep with a leaking rear main leak (I know it's shocking haha) and drove for about 4 hours and the leak has not reappeared since ( about 6 months ago).
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The best I have used in AT205 Reseal or Re-Seal. I have not found anything that works any better.
I have doubts about it working on timing cover but if it was a non-Teflon front or rear main seal though I would expect it to work well!
I have doubts about it working on timing cover but if it was a non-Teflon front or rear main seal though I would expect it to work well!
I'd run a high mileage oil.
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I do not think I have ever ran anyting "High Millage" in anything. They just never struck me as anything special since we really have no idea what additives if any outside of what a $20 used oil analysis can detect has been changed. Now if every single brand told you what was tweaked so they told you specificly "30% more seal swelling agents" etc......It would make the sell easier for me. Most of them are just thicker version of their normal oil with slightly higher dose of AW additives as far as I can tell.
That said given how much I see it sell out in various brands I know a lot of people are using High Mileage products. The roads and parking spaces in Michigan look like a the Exxon Valdez was in town recently.
I generaly want my oil to be oil and my stop leak to be stop leak and my insert "speciliazed produce here" to be just that! Just like if I think my vechile has dirty injectors my first responce would be to get some Red Line SI-1 and toss in the tank not switch to Shell V-Power 98. Not that I am knocking Top-Tier gasoline. Good gasoline is about prevention not fixing a pre-exhisting situation. Does that make sense?
So I have always looked at High Mileage products as dubious at best like Synthetic-Blends. Even with SPAM I know what is in the can but not with High Mileage or synthetic blend! Cheers
High Mileage oil is part marketing to higher mileage engines, but typically it is touted as more robust, and tweaked to condition seals in older engines. The oil companies unfortunately are not going to get too specific, if they did it would make life around Bitog easier for a lot of us.
