Maybe a quart every 2-3K More than any other vehicle I've owned at least. I did buy some Rislone to try. Where do you get HPL oil from?
What should I use for engine flush?
- Thread starter jayjr1105
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You have a 13 year old Volvo. You don't have to reach and pay for expensive, high tech flushes and cleaners. The MMO off the shelf is simple, cheap, and good. MMO does not instantly dissolve everything, so there is no need to use it for just 10 miles. That would be a waste. Use it for at least 500 miles, hopefully with a brisk highway run or two. Drain, then use the T6 replacing 1 qt. of it with MMO (20% max per their directions). Limit this to a 5000 mile interval, then repete another time or two if necessary. Cheap and simple here is good.
I don’t think MMO will be very effective in dissolving the carbon that is, no doubt, inside the engine. MMO claims a lot. I haven’t seen it work. MMO isn’t any better at cleaning than regular oil. Good, synthetic oil, like Mobil 1 TDT, Pennzoil Platinum Euro, Castrol 0W40 Euro, Mobil 1 0W40, and others, made no diffence in the engine on the 2002 V70XC, despite 200,000 miles of running high quality oil at short intervals of 5-6,000 miles.
However, I have seen quite a bit of cleaning, on the engine I posted earlier, and on this Volvo Engine, using HPL.
If you’re interested in what effect HPL is having in the Volvo V70XC, now with 300,000+ miles, here is the latest:
Even though that engine was cleaned mechanically (sump removed, and cleaned with a bronze brush and solvent) that cleaning was in the sump and bottom end of the crankcase. I did not remove the cylinder head, and I suspect it has (or, had) a bit of carbon as well. The carbon is clearly being liberated by the HPL. See my previous posts with the filter on the V70XC.
HPL works.
The AN and PAO in the formulation are clearly better at dissolving deposits than even good synthetic oils.
I can only recommend those products that I have seen be effective in a Volvo engine - and that is HPL. As the owner/mechanic on five Volvos, with actual, positive results using HPL, I stand by my first recommendation.
However, I have seen quite a bit of cleaning, on the engine I posted earlier, and on this Volvo Engine, using HPL.
If you’re interested in what effect HPL is having in the Volvo V70XC, now with 300,000+ miles, here is the latest:
Volvo Cartridge C&P Mahle 2002 Volvo V70XC using HPL 0W30
Mahle OX149 cartridge filter, 2002 Volvo V70XC with 301,xxx miles. I’ve cut apart a couple of these before, and the filters are good. Well-made, hard for me to cut with a knife, and they hold up well. This car is on its fifth run or so of HPL 0W30 Euro oil. So, this filter, represents run...
bobistheoilguy.com
Even though that engine was cleaned mechanically (sump removed, and cleaned with a bronze brush and solvent) that cleaning was in the sump and bottom end of the crankcase. I did not remove the cylinder head, and I suspect it has (or, had) a bit of carbon as well. The carbon is clearly being liberated by the HPL. See my previous posts with the filter on the V70XC.
HPL works.
The AN and PAO in the formulation are clearly better at dissolving deposits than even good synthetic oils.
I can only recommend those products that I have seen be effective in a Volvo engine - and that is HPL. As the owner/mechanic on five Volvos, with actual, positive results using HPL, I stand by my first recommendation.
I have no need to debate you but MMO does have solvents in it. 25% Stoddard solvent. That alone should point to it having cleaning abilities. Just beacuse an individual has not personally "seen" something work does not prove it doesn't work. I have no doubt HPL works and works well. At the same time I won't blow off economical solvent containing MMO. Nothing to risk by giving it try before the higher priced products that are, um, favored here.
Fair enough. I can see how a solvent might work, though the MMO that I have used in the past, on other engines, has not worked for me. MMO did not make a difference in the varnish in my old Toyota 4 Runner.
Again, I can see how it might work, and in fairness, I have not tried it in any of my Volvos to see if it would work in them.
But I can’t recommend something that I haven’t tried, I can only recommend something that I know works.
Finally, using a quart every 2-3,000 miles isn’t terrible - but on this car, the OP really needs to check the PCV system, in addition to anything added.
No amount of solvent, or anything else, will fix a Volvo PCV system that has begun to plug up. The only solution for that is to replace the parts.
My "Go to" for situations like this is a MMO + HDEO mix. I typically run a 20% or MMO to the rest 15w40 HDEO. In the high milage Toyota's I have, I do this every couple of years to keep them nice and clean. I run the full OCI and just keep an eye on the oil level. From what I have seen in the filters I have cut open; it definitely does some cleaning.
Have you cut open the Oil Filters where you were not running your 15W-40 HDEO and MMO?
What oil are you using the other times, and what are your OCI's like?
What are you seeing in these Oil Filters that you have cut open?
My OCI's are typically 5K these days (Driving less - I was doing 6-7K OCI's). I always cut open my filters and check the pleats. When I do these flushes, I will typically find small debris collected in the pleats.
TiGeo
$50 site donor 2024
My son's '98 GTI w/VR6 just developed a loud lifter tick. Dumped a can of LM Engine Flush in, 15 min, gone. It works. We'll likely do a few short-interval "flush" oil changes including the LM engine flush each time.
WM has a supply of MMO if anyone needs it....
I didn't know that so many people used MMO that WM has that many gallons on an endcap. I was walking by to check the clearance area and was like 
.
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TiGeo
$50 site donor 2024
It's pure gold apparently!I didn't know that so many people used MMO that WM has that many gallons on an endcap. I was walking by to check the clearance area and was like
As in....profit margin?
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Liqui Moly Engine Flush for me.
The remnants in the picture is only the last .5L I couldn't pour back into the bottle. There was more gunk on the oil pan but it melted away when I tried to pick it up so I think it's sludge? So it seems to have worked in my case.
The car had 10k OCI's from the dealer for the first 90k miles. 5k OCI's after I got it. at 106k now.
The remnants in the picture is only the last .5L I couldn't pour back into the bottle. There was more gunk on the oil pan but it melted away when I tried to pick it up so I think it's sludge? So it seems to have worked in my case.
The car had 10k OCI's from the dealer for the first 90k miles. 5k OCI's after I got it. at 106k now.
With out my reading glasses my first thought was that is the strangest valve train I have ever seen.
A bit deeper in the engine than the typical BITOG photo…
Truthfully I can't knock him because I've had good results with the LM flush.
tigeo,since you are an expert on LM brand and products..i went for my oci the other day and told my mechanic to try a first time engine flush at 160.000 km since i suddenly had an oil consumption of 1lt/3500km.i know its not that much for a bmw but it happen suddenly . i was thinking on trying this product since it has good reviews.
he told me he uses that too but there is a better one from LM that he has it..a LM engine flush product that you can find it only in germany. i thought he takes me for a fool so i wanted to ask you if there is such a product from LM that is limited only in german market? its the one you leave it in engine for the last 1000km before OCI.
of course he didnt mention its name and i didnt want to ask him bcs. he would think that i am going to do it myself ..its a matter of knowing each other since its the first time i went to his garage and he might be offended
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