Educate me on 0w40 please

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted by PeterPolyol
Who cares? Strawman much? Straighter based oils will pass those deposit tests better. Prove that wrong? Prove that VIIs increase oil stability and cleanliness. Go ahead and try and prove something so stupid.


Stupid? You are approaching this angry, so I'm not going to expect this to go well, but I'll give the replies the "old College try".

Obviously Porsche cares, or they wouldn't have created the standard. It's not a strawman, it's a direct qualification of a lubricant to handle the conditions I've described, VALIDATED via an extensive tear-down and analysis with measurements to qualify the points you've raised concern about. It's a heck of a lot better than ASSUMING (which is what you are doing here) that using an oil with a closer spread is going to have less polymer in it an SHOULD pass this test, despite not having actually passed it. Basically, you are assuming performance based on a single metric and grossly over-simplifying how lubricants are blended so you can hang your hat on your "sound reasoning".


Originally Posted by PeterPolyol
Yes, like cold temp performance is more of a fuction of base oil viscosity. Yes, like that's why a 40 grade oil bearing 0W is going to blend with lower viscosity bases than even a 5W20. Prove that this is the exception and not the rule. Go ahead, tough guy.


Tough guy? LOL! Nothing like being emotionally motivated to really ensure that this exchange is going to end up in the toilet
smirk.gif


Cold temp performance is not simply a function of base oil viscosity. PAO has massively better cold temperature performance than Group III or lower because it lacks wax. So your Group II or III is going to be dosed with PPD's, whilst the PAO blend won't. Light bases dosed with PPD's and VII's versus a blend of light bases dosed with a similar blend of VII's, yeah.... I actually provided you with some blending examples and showed that VII dosing for a 5w-30 as well as base oil viscosity can be remarkably similar to a 0w-40. You've provided, well, nothing really
21.gif
Just insults and opinion
thumbsup2.gif


Originally Posted by PeterPolyol
Oh, the oil failures had nothing to do with oil. Oh it's the dealers using subpar oil!!

Yes, the dealers were using the wrong oil (not extended drain capable or designed) for applications that were extended drains. When the proper lubricant was used, which had been the case in Europe, and they had not been having any issues, this problem didn't present. Remember, this was at a time when OEM extended drain intervals were relatively new and you certainly weren't seeing them with domestic or Japanese vehicles. Why are you having a hard time with this? It isn't a difficult concept
21.gif


*insult removed*

Originally Posted by PeterPolyol
EVEN IF THAT WAS TRUE , that all failures are becasue of dealers and the wrong oil, you're only corroborating the neediness of German engines.

No, we are qualifying the inadequacy of basic API lubricants during that time period for use in extended drain interval applications. It has nothing to do with neediness but rather the use of the appropriate product.

Originally Posted by PeterPolyol
Is that the point you intended to make? "It's not the oil" lol It's the sludge fairies. They prefer german vehicles. Seriously, get outta here with that weak sh- opinion piece. I thought you were here to lay down the hard proof for your fanbase, but all I'm getting is less comprehensive imagination and opinion. Good job.

Long on hyperbole and insult, a little short on facts and comprehension I see.

Originally Posted by PeterPolyol
What narrative, though? I've been trying to figure out what narrative you're getting from my post

That oils with a wide viscosity spread are blended in the same manner as oils with a narrow viscosity spread and thus oils with a narrower spread will inherently use less VII universally and heavier base oils. I literally provided you with examples earlier in the text you quoted, but chose to omit it because, well: agenda.

Originally Posted by PeterPolyol
has you arguing 5W and 15W performance oils.

I brought up performance oils with a wide spread, spec'd for high performance applications because it doesn't fit the message you are pushing for narrow-spread superiority.

Originally Posted by PeterPolyol
What are you doing? You're supposed to be telling me why VII's make an oil better outside of the realm of cold starts, and everyone has failed at it; You, kschanch (who can't even try), 53stooge and whoever else is riding your sack. Put up (an argument) or shut up.


Ooooh the "put up or shut up" threat! And from the guy that hasn't actually put up anything other than opinion! Bravo! You gonna drive down here and throw a tantrum in my driveway? I'm only an hour away, you are more than welcome to. Maybe we can record it and put it on Youtube?
21.gif
I've got a lot of 0w-40, we could have some real fun with this!

Originally Posted by PeterPolyol
Why is that worth noting? Who cares? What does this do to prove that VII-reliant viscosity is more stable, cleaner or at least on par with base oil reliant viscosity? Most of your reply isn't worth noting at all, because it's so irrelevant..

It's the performance tests, including deposit control, you know, that actual tear down and analyze thing that they are doing and you aren't doing that makes it worth noting. Because what they are doing doesn't align with what you are peddling.


Originally Posted by PeterPolyol
Describe the 'best fit' and tell me what your proxy-engineering has to do with proving that:
-more VII reliant finished oil = a better, cleaner, more stable lubricant
-oils with high VII content and viscosity reliance demonstrate no different effect on film strength, lubricity, deposit control, oxidative stability than straighter blends
or even Level 10:
-that less VIIs = a dirtier, less stable, weaker film, all else equal


1. You are assuming these oils are more VII reliant. The information from the Mobil blending guide shows that's not the case yet you continue to peddle it.
2. This ties into #1, because it opens with the assumption that we are comparing oils with markedly different VII treatments. All of those parameters are tested for, you are building yourself a strawman to attack at this juncture.
3. Again, you are building a strawman to attack by trying to put this all into a single box with the "all else equal" qualifier. All else is never equal, that's not how they are blended, but I expect you know that. What PCMO oils, besides "evil PAO-based ones" like AMSOIL's 10w-30 or the insanely thin Japanese oils that have stratospheric Noack, can we even compare here? You have absolutely no idea how any of the oils you might be cheerleading are even blended.

Originally Posted by PeterPolyol
Go right ahead, big shot. Still waiting for you to win.


Oh, big shot! Don't give yourself a heart attack Peter getting all worked up over there. Maybe go take a walk and cool off? It's pleasant out right now.

BTW, you took a shot at Noack earlier on but then didn't touch it in your "scathing rebuttal". This was after you praised the Japanese lubricants, which I pointed out, had much, MUCH higher Noack figures than the 0w-40's your were slamming. Here's a little excerpt from one of the blending guides:


Screen Shot 2019-02-03 at 4.32.38 PM.webp
 
Stude, when I had a 2003 VW GTI 1.8T, I used M1 0W-40 many times. I used Castrol 0W-40 once. I think they were quite good oils then and think they still are. Red Line and Ravenol make interesting 0W-40 oils. Red Line 0W-40 uses a lot of molybdenum and much more ester than most other oils do. If I had an engine now that was well suited that viscosity grade, I would probably try both of them. If I didn't want to spend that much money, I'd probably use Castrol 0W-40 instead of Mobil 1, largely because it has less sulfated ash. Mobil 1 0W-40 goes pretty crazy with the calcium detergent that contributes to the sulfated ash. Here are the data sheets for each:
https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/ABA58BD5C9E98421802582D000613AC5/$File/BPXE-B33J98.pdf
https://www.mobil.com/English-AU/Passenger-Vehicle-Lube/pds/GLXXMobil-1-0W40

A newer set of euro oil specifications than met by some of the above oils have been around for a while now, focusing on less sulfated ash, phosphorus, and sulfur (SAPS). Examples are VW 504/507, BMW LL-04, and MB 229.51 or 229.52. With low sulfur fuels, these oils can be good choices. There are even newer specs than those that are surprisingly 0W-20 viscosity grade, like VW 508/509.
 
Originally Posted by JAG

A newer set of euro oil specifications than met by some of the above oils have been around for a while now, focusing on less sulfated ash, phosphorus, and sulfur (SAPS). Examples are VW 504/507, BMW LL-04, and MB 229.51 or 229.52. With low sulfur fuels, these oils can be good choices. There are even newer specs than those that are surprisingly 0W-20 viscosity grade, like VW 508/509.


Yes, and those 0w-20's are blended using 4cSt base oils usually, which apparently are awful when used as part of the base oil blend for a 0w-40, but get a pass when used in a 5w-20 or 0w-20 because they use a tad less VII
wink.gif


Based on the literature I've seen, 4cSt bases are a significant part of most multigrades. There is a page included in Mobil's EHC blending guide on how to blend a 10w-30 that is 22.3% 4.5cSt Group II+ and 57.7% 6.5cSt Group II+ for example. You have to get into PAO-based 10w-30's for them to omit the lighter bases and I'd imagine you'd need to be looking at a Boutique like AMSOIL SS or Redline for that to be the case. You also can't rely on OEM performance specifications to drive the blend to Group III or PAO, since none of them use 10w-30 anymore.

Screen Shot 2019-02-03 at 5.34.24 PM.webp
 
JAG and OVERKILL: Thank You both for the education which is more than I can say peterpoyl or whatever he is did other than insult people
 
Originally Posted by 1JZ_E46
Originally Posted by Bxnanaz
I've seen it all.. insulting on an oil forum..


You must be new here.


+1 ...
lol.gif
 
Tried to read this thread … but this business of carrying over so many comments on the current format is hopeless …
 
Originally Posted by 4WD
Tried to read this thread … but this business of carrying over so many comments on the current format is hopeless …


I really wish quotes wouldn't nest and only pull the last post.
 
Originally Posted by 1JZ_E46
Originally Posted by 4WD
Tried to read this thread … but this business of carrying over so many comments on the current format is hopeless …


I really wish quotes wouldn't nest and only pull the last post.


Might be your display settings, I've got mine in sort of the "classic" view.
 
I'm assuming I'll be just fine running the 0w40 DZF in my signature.
Diesel application in this PCMO thread, but I reckon the same principles of PAO/VII/PPD etc apply?
 
Originally Posted by 1JZ_E46
You give the impression that you think cold starts are a trivial thing. We know that's where a lot of wear takes place, so why not formulate an oil to target that? .


The majority of the wear is in the warmup phase, not the "cold start" per se, but by definition, you don't get a warmup without a cold start.

So no, these oils are not formulated for the "cold start"...they are formulated to be pumpable at -40C, but that is meaningless for the vast majority of the world.
 
Originally Posted by ofelas
I'm assuming I'll be just fine running the 0w40 DZF in my signature.
Diesel application in this PCMO thread, but I reckon the same principles of PAO/VII/PPD etc apply?


Yes. It'll leverage a reasonably thin base oil blend, likely using some 4cSt and 6cSt PAO and then a splash of VII to hit the HTHS and KV100 targets basically. I'd expect it to perhaps have more 6cSt than a Euro blend, which would have a lower HTHS.
 
Originally Posted by Shannow
Originally Posted by 1JZ_E46
You give the impression that you think cold starts are a trivial thing. We know that's where a lot of wear takes place, so why not formulate an oil to target that? .


The majority of the wear is in the warmup phase, not the "cold start" per se, but by definition, you don't get a warmup without a cold start.

So no, these oils are not formulated for the "cold start"...they are formulated to be pumpable at -40C, but that is meaningless for the vast majority of the world.


I was thinking he was speaking as to CCS visc not the "flow" argument. The impact on cranking can, depending on the engine, be the difference between it starting or not when temperatures are as low as they have been lately.
 
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by 1JZ_E46
Originally Posted by 4WD
Tried to read this thread … but this business of carrying over so many comments on the current format is hopeless …


I really wish quotes wouldn't nest and only pull the last post.


Might be your display settings, I've got mine in sort of the "classic" view.


My view is mostly Tan with Dark Brown thick header lines. It displays perfectly and easy on the eyes to read.
 
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by Shannow
Originally Posted by 1JZ_E46
You give the impression that you think cold starts are a trivial thing. We know that's where a lot of wear takes place, so why not formulate an oil to target that? .


The majority of the wear is in the warmup phase, not the "cold start" per se, but by definition, you don't get a warmup without a cold start.

So no, these oils are not formulated for the "cold start"...they are formulated to be pumpable at -40C, but that is meaningless for the vast majority of the world.


I was thinking he was speaking as to CCS visc not the "flow" argument. The impact on cranking can, depending on the engine, be the difference between it starting or not when temperatures are as low as they have been lately.


quote was specifically start-up wer and targeting that...although I guess if you targeted an oil that wouldn't crank/start, you'd get no startup wear.
beer3.gif
 
Originally Posted by Shannow
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by Shannow
Originally Posted by 1JZ_E46
You give the impression that you think cold starts are a trivial thing. We know that's where a lot of wear takes place, so why not formulate an oil to target that? .


The majority of the wear is in the warmup phase, not the "cold start" per se, but by definition, you don't get a warmup without a cold start.

So no, these oils are not formulated for the "cold start"...they are formulated to be pumpable at -40C, but that is meaningless for the vast majority of the world.


I was thinking he was speaking as to CCS visc not the "flow" argument. The impact on cranking can, depending on the engine, be the difference between it starting or not when temperatures are as low as they have been lately.


quote was specifically start-up wer and targeting that...although I guess if you targeted an oil that wouldn't crank/start, you'd get no startup wear.
beer3.gif



lol.gif


True enough!
cheers3.gif
 
Originally Posted by 53' Stude
Good evening folks. Most of you know I'm pretty dense or stupid on motor oil "specs" like NOACK and cold pour and cold flow. The 0w40 talk has me intrigued. What are the cold flow specs and NOACK values on 0w40 oils? How heavy or thick is a 0w40 at say -12F in a vehicle without a sump heater?


If you folks had to choose; and owned a vehicle that required a 0w40, which 0w40 would you use?

Thank You in advance folks. What are some of the differences between a 0w40 and a 0w30 also?

0W-40 = 0W-20 + a lot more VII

The base oil of a 0W-40 is thinner than that of a synthetic 5W-20; therefore, in theory you get more wear with a 0W-40 than you would with a 5W-20.

The only reason why the European OEMs spec it is because their engines are high-revving engines, where the oil can get too high in high RPMs, requiring a higher HTHSV to make up for it so that you don't risk bearing damage during racing. Bearing wear is otherwise determined not by viscosity but the detergent type, TBN, and base-oil quality, which protect the copper and lead from oxidation. However, 0W-40s are usually good in these areas, despite having fallen behind in detergent technology (still using Ca detergent).

Another drawback is that since 0W-40 HTHSV is higher, you get less oil flow through your engine. It's not to mention that it will rob off fuel economy and horsepower.

Any 0W-xx will have good cold flow.

Disregard fancy OEM specs such as Porsche A40 etc., as they are irrelevant unless you own a Porsche etc. For example, A40 requires visual examination of bearings after racing. How does that help you when choosing an oil? Specs are not about oil quality. They are technical properties. Spec for one engine, even if it's for a Porsche, can hurt a different engine it's not specd for.

Long story short, unless your vehicle calls for 0W-40, you don't need it. It will only rob off performance and may even increase engine wear.

If 0W-40 is specd, M1 and Castrol should both be good with Castrol having more PAO but still a lot of Group III.

M1 0W-30 is a lower-HTHSV oil but there are Euro 0W-30s with HTHSV >= 3.5 cP.

I did a comparison of TGMO 0W-20 and M1 0W-40. 0W-40 increased the valvetrain wear. However, its strong detergent helped reduce chromium and lead corrosion over TGMO's very low-TBN detergent.

Thin or thick (TGMO 0W-20/M1 0W-40): Final verdict
 
"I did a comparison of TGMO 0W-20 and M1 0W-40. 0W-40 increased the valvetrain wear."




I'm interested to hear how you determined this.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom