Drain Plug Problem - HELP!!!

[JTM]

I am in the middle of an oil change (for the first time on my Volvo with 108,000 miles) and noticed the oil drain plug is really strange. The last time I had it done it was with the local Volvo dealer. I can't imagine why they wouldn't have just put a regular bolt on instead of this goofy thing that looks stripped.

I was expecting to find a big bolt that I could undo with my socket wrench but instead it's round and the inside is pretty much round too.

Can somebody look at the pics below and make some suggestions as to how I can get the drain plug out? I've tried pliers but the metal of the bolt just gives and doesn't unscrew.

NOTE: The drain plug is 19 MM in diameter.

[ October 03, 2003, 06:24 PM: Message edited by: JTM ]

 

[mrchecker]

Looks like it used to be a torx or allen head. First I'd go get a new plug. Then find a torx head socket big enough that it doesn't quite fit and bang it into the hole with a hammer. If you have access to air tools, use an air wrench to loosen it, the shock should break it loose without spinning the socket you pounded in. Good luck. One more reason to never let Iffy Lube work on one's car.

 

[labman]

The first thing I would do is buy another plug or at least make sure one is available. That may also give you a clue of how it is supposed to come out. I won't quibble with those that suggest a Fugimoto?. It looks to me like the center still retains some of the hex for an Allen wrench. Likely a 10 mm. I would buy a slight oversize Allen socket, perhaps a 7/16'' for a 10 mm. Grind a little taper on the end and drive it in. Maybe that will give you enough bite to remove it. If that fails, I would try a punch or chisel working tangentially on it. That often works wonders. You might also try a pipe wrench on the outside of what sticks out. I would be very disappointed in a dealer that stripped the oil drain plug in an expensive car.

I have had problems with steel plugs in the aluminum transmission housing of my truck. Fortunately they have a nice big 24 mm hex that is a nice tight fit in a 6 point 15/16'' socket. Somebody here suggested antisieze for it.

While eating dinner Mrchecker has suggested much of what I already had written.

 

[JTM]

Thanks for the help guys. Do you think if I tried using a 10mm or 7/16" allen wrench I could mess it up a lot more? I was thinking of taking it back to Volvo and asking them to take that crappy plug out and put a real one in. I am really curious to know why they (Parkway Volvo in Wilmington, NC) would put this stripped plug in and not put a new one in. I even bought one the other day just in case I messed up the existing one, so you'd think since they have a whole bin of them they would have thought to have done this.

I tried using pliers to grip onto the outside of the bolt, but the metal just wore away.

If I end up taking it back to Volvo (since they're the last ones who touched it), I'm going to be royally pissed if they try to tell me I'm going to have to pay for a new oil pan.

 

[labman]

Maybe letting the dealer undo their damage is the best thing. I mentioned making sure you can get another one because it will be messed up but good after you try my way.

Nothing beats a nice big hex and a 6 point socket.

 

[MNgopher]

Seeing as how the dealer was the last one to see this, bring it back to them to get it undone and tell them that you need a new drain plug since the condition they left it in was impossible for you to work with.

One of my last "Jiffy Lube" type experiences revolved aroud using some aftermarket drain plug with only a 12 mm head that head been partially stripped put on by a gorilla. I returned to the place, had them do another oil change and got a new 16mm plug put back on and made sure it was loose enough for me to get off next time.

 

[garyb80]

If you decide to get it out yourself, the correct way would be to use an EZout. You can buy a set at Sears or some auto parts places. EZouts have saved my butt many times.

[ October 04, 2003, 05:35 PM: Message edited by: garyb80 ]

 

[Steve S]

Try using a pipe wrench .

 

[JTM]

I have one of these Damanged Screw Remover but it looks like it's only for wood. Will it work on the drain plug?

What do you mean by manual impactor?

[ October 05, 2003, 01:07 PM: Message edited by: JTM ]

 

[labman]

That Sears set doesn't look near heavy enough. The one labeled large also says #10 which is basely over 3/16''. It might be right for some smaller screws, but you need more beef or at least high grade steel for that 19 mm plug.

I am guessing you have the same steel in aluminum seizing problem as with my truck transmission. It will take a bunch of torque to break it free. That is why the original hex or Torx stripped in the first place. You need to drive something into what is left that will bite into it and allow you to turn it out. Exactly the right size Easy Out or other brand screw extractor should work. They have the advantage of a left hand thread that bites in more as you try to turn it out. They have a big taper which means it may bottom out in your shallow hole before biting in. You may have to drill it deeper, even clear through. At least the oil should wash all the filings out. Rather than buy a large screw extractor or set that you may not use much, you might look around at what you have that might work such as the Allen socket I first suggested.

The hand impact somebody else suggested is likely a tool like I have. It is about an inch around and 4'' long. It is flat at one end and mine has a standard 3/8'' drive eon the other. Often they come with screwdriver bits. You hit the flat end with a hammer, and the drive end turns. This will turn stuff nothing else will. Impact beats a steady pull. Before I bought anything, I would try a small hammer and a punch or chisel. This is a common trick. Drive it in a little at the edge, and then work sideways.

There was a thread about a week ago on removing a Torx screw. It had many good ideas. Put Torx into the search feature here and dig it up.

I would also try the pipe wrench or vise grips on the outside if you can get enough grip on it.

 

[GROUCHO MARX]

I hate when krap like this happens.

Good luck.

 

[Al]

Other than the dealer doing it-which is what I would recommend. Fitst try the oversize allen wrench and use a manual impactor-you will need shock to get this puppy off. Abd yes the E-Z out is the right way to go-but if you bust it----ummmmm

It's quite likely that the plug is not on super tight. From the looks of it they round3ed it off removing it. You should be able to get it

[ October 05, 2003, 12:58 PM: Message edited by: Al ]

 

[dkcase]

JB Weld is something I would try. If you are not familiar with it, check their website. Available at AutoZone and WalMart.

Take a large nut and attach it to the plug with JBWeld.

JBKwik only needs to be held in place to set for about 4 minutes. The JBWeld is stronger but you would need some fixture to hold it in place for about 30 minutes.

The next day, spin it off. I think it will work, but if it pulls off, you are just back where you started. Then go for the chisel and punch, or the EZ Out. I too think you won't have enough bite for that to work without drilling through.

Smooth the nut and plug with a file or emery cloth to make the best contact you can , and use a no-residue solvent to make it chemically clean.

JBWeld has never failed me.

 

[Spector]

That type of plug is normally only seen on AT transmission drains and/or manual transmission/transfer cases. May seem like a stupid question but are you sure this is the oil pan and not the transmission drain plug???

 

[labman]

Hey, I like that JB weld idea. Aside from some time and the price of the JB, there isn't much downside, and it may work. I would carefully fill the recess with the weld too. From your second picture, that really looks like the oil pan to me, with the tranny pan at the top of the picture.

 

[Ken2]

Forget the damaged screw remover--it's for wood screws.

I had an Easy-Out work once--once in 35 years.

The best way is to take it back to the dealer along with your copy of the work order from last time. Do not let them sell you a new oil pan.

If I was to remove this plug, I'd try a like-new pipe wrench with sharp teeth (no cheapo Chinese wrenches) on the outer surface. If that doesn't work, I'd buy a left-hand tap, left-hand high-strength cap screw (bolt) (maybe about 3/8"?) and the suitable sized tap drill bit. Magnetize the drill bit and tap so they retain most of the chips. Drill, tap, insert the bolt, screw the bolt in tightly (left hand thread, remember?) and keep tightening until the drain plug comes out. Clean out any remaining chips and install a new drain plug.

Be ready for the oil gusher when the drill penetrates the plug.

www.mcmaster.com is one source for left-hand stuff, as well as a good, local screw jobber.

Drive a good mechanic crazy...slip a left hand drill bit into his drill index. Left hand bits are made for some machine tools.


Ken

[ October 06, 2003, 01:29 PM: Message edited by: Ken2 ]

 

[JTM]

I ending up being able to remove the bolt yesterday using a 5/16" hex key (after a few bangs with a rubber mallet).

When I went out to the garage this morning I noticed about a half an ounce of oil on the ground. I used the same copper washer that was on there and put a new drain plug in (which I'm pretty sure was the correct size). I didn't tighten it as hard as I could. Should I have used a fibre gasket or just tighten it down more? If I have to replace the gasket, then I'm going to lose the 6.5 quarts of oil I just put in.

Thanks for everyone's suggestions, I really appreciate the help!

 

[labman]

Great! It pays to try the fairly simple first. Sounds like it was an 8 mm hex. Surely Volvos are all metric. I bet the 5/16'' fits the new one fine. I have seen references here to Hondas that require a new washer every change. Check on that. Maybe chance tightening it up a little tighter. Hope you put antisieze on it. If your drain interval isn't too long, maybe tolerate the leak and use a new gasket next time. Keep a pan under it. Find the torque spec for it, and follow it. If you don't have a torque wrench, buy one. You need one even for what used to be simple jobs like tightening lug nuts.

 

[JTM]

The plug that I replaced it with is a regular drain plug (the kind that fits a 19mm socket wrench). This is what AutoZone's website said was the recommend drain plug for my year/model car. Do you think it may not fit correctly? It seemed to go in fine when putting it in.

I didn't use antisieze on the plug. Can you please list the names of some stores who carry it? I've been looking around for it and couldn't find it anywhere.

Thanks!

 

[labman]

I feel the original 8 mm Allen head plug was engineering malpractice. For something that will be removed many times over the life of the car, nothing beats the biggest hex there is room for, and a 6 point socket. Auto Zone should have had the antiseize. Advance Auto has it, and most other auto stores.