We had 0 problems with the 02 Lincoln Continental until 120,000 miles then it was everything. I realize every dollar I put in it doesn't increase its value at all, but here is my math. We looked at a 2010 Ford Taurus with all the same options basically- 63,000 miles- $12,500. So if I bought that car to replace the Lincoln to actually be smart decision I would have to have the Lincoln cost me over $12,500 in repairs in the next 4 years which literally isn't possible. It's a newer car but really no other options. You usually never buy a newer or new car because it's financially feasible. You buy because you WANT a new/ newer car. You can always fix cheaper and unless it's brand new, the newer car could break down too. Just my logic. The Lincoln has hit max.depreciation so you can look at that too. Insurance is cheaper and liability is all you need because you can absorb the loss.
Does it pay to keep older cars?
- Thread starter ford46guy
- Start date
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The most "amazing" thing about lease deals is the number of great used cars that they end up bringing to the market a few years later. No way would I ever get a lease myself, unless someone else was paying for it, like an employer.
Originally Posted By: mctmatt
Ford46,
I see those same lease deals in the paper and yes they look great and for many they are a great deal , but I also see that one time payment at time of possession can range from $2000 and up for all the paper work and other items plus you are required to carry more liability of at least $300k on most lease then there is the limit on mileage and the price per mile should you go over that amount. Those are things to consider but as I said for some people it still is a good deal for others it might not be. I do know that I have two older cars that I drive and I have no monthly payments. The trick or at least for me is that I try to do preventive maintenance which gives me more control of when money should be spent and avoiding being hit with a surprise later down the road. If your willing to take on the task of doing some of the small maintenance items such as the transmission fluid, radiator flush, fluid exchanges, hose and belt replacements you will be surprised of the savings and for me it does add value to my used car as it keeps it running like new and I do maintain the interior and exterior to the point that I have had several offers from others asking if I would like to sale one of my cars. The money that I would be spending on a monthly payment for a new car goes straight into my savings account and since I have not had a car payment in 6 years that is very helpful and when it is time to purchase another car I will use those funds to help with my next purchase.
+1 There's a rental ad which runs here in the summer in which the ditz wife tells the harassed husband "we can't take the car on vacation 'because of the lease' " (racking up too many miles) So they "decide" to RENT one instead. Penny wise..... lease a luxo cruiser to impress the neighborhood and have to take a rental sbox on vacation.
Ford46,
I see those same lease deals in the paper and yes they look great and for many they are a great deal , but I also see that one time payment at time of possession can range from $2000 and up for all the paper work and other items plus you are required to carry more liability of at least $300k on most lease then there is the limit on mileage and the price per mile should you go over that amount. Those are things to consider but as I said for some people it still is a good deal for others it might not be. I do know that I have two older cars that I drive and I have no monthly payments. The trick or at least for me is that I try to do preventive maintenance which gives me more control of when money should be spent and avoiding being hit with a surprise later down the road. If your willing to take on the task of doing some of the small maintenance items such as the transmission fluid, radiator flush, fluid exchanges, hose and belt replacements you will be surprised of the savings and for me it does add value to my used car as it keeps it running like new and I do maintain the interior and exterior to the point that I have had several offers from others asking if I would like to sale one of my cars. The money that I would be spending on a monthly payment for a new car goes straight into my savings account and since I have not had a car payment in 6 years that is very helpful and when it is time to purchase another car I will use those funds to help with my next purchase.
+1 There's a rental ad which runs here in the summer in which the ditz wife tells the harassed husband "we can't take the car on vacation 'because of the lease' " (racking up too many miles) So they "decide" to RENT one instead. Penny wise..... lease a luxo cruiser to impress the neighborhood and have to take a rental sbox on vacation.
Last edited:
$250/month for a year is $3,000. If I could put that much into any one of the cars I've bought outright (which is all except one) over a year's time, after about 3 years they'd look and run like they just rolled off the lot again - and I'd own it.
Originally Posted By: ford46guy
no hidden stuff
36 months
10,000 miles/year
$2650 Cash Down
Customer responsible for insurance, maintenance, repairs, wear and tear.
"A" tier credit with minimum FICO score of 700 to qualify
http://www.goldsteinsubaru.com/newspecials.aspx
no hidden stuff
36 months
10,000 miles/year
$2650 Cash Down
Customer responsible for insurance, maintenance, repairs, wear and tear.
"A" tier credit with minimum FICO score of 700 to qualify
http://www.goldsteinsubaru.com/newspecials.aspx
Originally Posted By: Danno
Depends on where you live.
If you live in an Albany NY, or Ontario, Canada geography where winters are very cold (I have seen -40C on my car thermometer read out) and they use huge amounts of road salt, anything over 12 years old just goes to heck in terms of appearance and reliability. At that point, imo, it is very easy to justify considering a new vehicle.
If you are talking say, southern California or some island off of Spain, those are non-issues and a 20 year life should be easy given routine maintenance is done.
Let's keep it in perspective.
Note that Ford is no longer stocking parts for vehicles older than 10 years old. If you need something for a Ford that is dealer specific like an engine harness, good luck. Just went through that for one of our 2007 E350 Ford work trucks.
I couldn't find anything on that. Is that true?
Depends on where you live.
If you live in an Albany NY, or Ontario, Canada geography where winters are very cold (I have seen -40C on my car thermometer read out) and they use huge amounts of road salt, anything over 12 years old just goes to heck in terms of appearance and reliability. At that point, imo, it is very easy to justify considering a new vehicle.
If you are talking say, southern California or some island off of Spain, those are non-issues and a 20 year life should be easy given routine maintenance is done.
Let's keep it in perspective.
Note that Ford is no longer stocking parts for vehicles older than 10 years old. If you need something for a Ford that is dealer specific like an engine harness, good luck. Just went through that for one of our 2007 E350 Ford work trucks.
I couldn't find anything on that. Is that true?
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
Originally Posted By: ford46guy
I get a weekly circular, I see amazing lease deals like a subaru imprezza (or even an outback) in the 200-250 range/mo out the door, no hidden stuff. Even if it is is a few bucks more a month it seems like a good deal. These cars keep their value so the leases are less. Probably cars with few options, but today even the base model is quite loaded.
I've never seen a nothing out of pocket Subaru lease. I've seen them say 0 down, but in the fine print is first payment, security deposit, deposition fee, sales tax, etc..etc.. They're typically a $1500-2000 down lease with all that.
I get a weekly circular, I see amazing lease deals like a subaru imprezza (or even an outback) in the 200-250 range/mo out the door, no hidden stuff. Even if it is is a few bucks more a month it seems like a good deal. These cars keep their value so the leases are less. Probably cars with few options, but today even the base model is quite loaded.
I've never seen a nothing out of pocket Subaru lease. I've seen them say 0 down, but in the fine print is first payment, security deposit, deposition fee, sales tax, etc..etc.. They're typically a $1500-2000 down lease with all that.
Originally Posted By: Polly_3SFE
I've definitely subscribed to buying used cars with cash and driving them into the ground. I think it comes out way cheaper than buying new or leasing, even with the occasional repair. With proper maintenance and a little luck, you can have a car go a very long time without needing a repair.
Shops wanted $300-500 to replace the heater temperature door actuator in my Monte Carlo. I replaced it for $25 for the new AC Delco part and one hour of my time after watching a youtube video. Stuff like that can really help.
This. The Internet makes DIY for straight forward maintenance and repairs a lot easier, not to mention the parts availability. My Alero had the awful early-2000s GM security problem; I found the bypass procedure online and done. Issues like that are reasons people get rid of cars. Unless the car is a total rust bucket, to me it is worth maintaining the car to do what it was designed to do as long as you're happy with it. Whether the car is worth anything matters very little with that frame of mind. Does it still do car stuff properly with maintenance and consumables? Roll on.
I've definitely subscribed to buying used cars with cash and driving them into the ground. I think it comes out way cheaper than buying new or leasing, even with the occasional repair. With proper maintenance and a little luck, you can have a car go a very long time without needing a repair.
Shops wanted $300-500 to replace the heater temperature door actuator in my Monte Carlo. I replaced it for $25 for the new AC Delco part and one hour of my time after watching a youtube video. Stuff like that can really help.
This. The Internet makes DIY for straight forward maintenance and repairs a lot easier, not to mention the parts availability. My Alero had the awful early-2000s GM security problem; I found the bypass procedure online and done. Issues like that are reasons people get rid of cars. Unless the car is a total rust bucket, to me it is worth maintaining the car to do what it was designed to do as long as you're happy with it. Whether the car is worth anything matters very little with that frame of mind. Does it still do car stuff properly with maintenance and consumables? Roll on.
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
We had 0 problems with the 02 Lincoln Continental until 120,000 miles then it was everything. I realize every dollar I put in it doesn't increase its value at all, but here is my math. We looked at a 2010 Ford Taurus with all the same options basically- 63,000 miles- $12,500. So if I bought that car to replace the Lincoln to actually be smart decision I would have to have the Lincoln cost me over $12,500 in repairs in the next 4 years which literally isn't possible. It's a newer car but really no other options. You usually never buy a newer or new car because it's financially feasible. You buy because you WANT a new/ newer car. You can always fix cheaper and unless it's brand new, the newer car could break down too. Just my logic. The Lincoln has hit max.depreciation so you can look at that too. Insurance is cheaper and liability is all you need because you can absorb the loss.
Currently on a 2002 Lincoln as well that I bought 7 years ago at 22K miles for $9K cash. Starting to get a little concerned at the 75K mile mark now because no doubt somethings will be showing up in this 75K-125K mile range....especially at 15-16 yrs old. It's still very nice looking with excellent paint. Unexpected repairs ($800) included the radiator (trans cooler leak) and one front axle (tone ring)...everything else came as expected. Car is worth around $4500 now. Tempted to move into something about 5-7 years newer just to keep ahead of advancing age....????
We had 0 problems with the 02 Lincoln Continental until 120,000 miles then it was everything. I realize every dollar I put in it doesn't increase its value at all, but here is my math. We looked at a 2010 Ford Taurus with all the same options basically- 63,000 miles- $12,500. So if I bought that car to replace the Lincoln to actually be smart decision I would have to have the Lincoln cost me over $12,500 in repairs in the next 4 years which literally isn't possible. It's a newer car but really no other options. You usually never buy a newer or new car because it's financially feasible. You buy because you WANT a new/ newer car. You can always fix cheaper and unless it's brand new, the newer car could break down too. Just my logic. The Lincoln has hit max.depreciation so you can look at that too. Insurance is cheaper and liability is all you need because you can absorb the loss.
Currently on a 2002 Lincoln as well that I bought 7 years ago at 22K miles for $9K cash. Starting to get a little concerned at the 75K mile mark now because no doubt somethings will be showing up in this 75K-125K mile range....especially at 15-16 yrs old. It's still very nice looking with excellent paint. Unexpected repairs ($800) included the radiator (trans cooler leak) and one front axle (tone ring)...everything else came as expected. Car is worth around $4500 now. Tempted to move into something about 5-7 years newer just to keep ahead of advancing age....????
The Roadmaster is the perfect car for me, as it's big, comfortable, and very handy. Very few things I can't do with it that I could with a truck. Plus I can repair virtually anything that might need to be and do it cheap. Its old and worn out(worn in I say) but I wouldn't have it any other way. I'll drive it into the ground, repair it, and do it again. Anyone with a little common sense and some redneck ingenuity can keep anything running for a long time.
I have 3 older cars at this time. One is a standard daily driver, not quite beater because I really like it and two fun cars. Even with combining cost of go fast parts/upgrades, I spend maybe $300-350 per month on these cars combined. including insurance, gas, repairs, and upgraded parts. This does not include the same maintenance as any other car would need such as oil and tires. It all depends on the car and how reliable it is for you. Some cars are better than others in the same model and some are worse.
I paid $3100 for my f250. A new replacement would cost $60k or more.
Is it all about dollars and sense, or are the ergonomics included? If I had a way to get my '53 Hudson back for any sort of reasonable money, I'd take it in a heart beat. Or my G2 blown Ranch Wagon. They are long gone due to the vagaries of a miss spent youth
To old to crawl in and out of a lowered Sirocco any more, but that was a heck of ride
Same with the Audi 80.
I know I beat on cars. Slowing down some as I get older, but still hit the loud pedal often enough ... I buy cars with 100,000 on the clock and fix as needed. Can't stand the hit if I park it in an oak tree while owning a ton... Just does not work for me. All older and all quick. Even the 1970 Chevy truck (BBC)
To old to crawl in and out of a lowered Sirocco any more, but that was a heck of ride
I know I beat on cars. Slowing down some as I get older, but still hit the loud pedal often enough ... I buy cars with 100,000 on the clock and fix as needed. Can't stand the hit if I park it in an oak tree while owning a ton... Just does not work for me. All older and all quick. Even the 1970 Chevy truck (BBC)
Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
We had 0 problems with the 02 Lincoln Continental until 120,000 miles then it was everything. I realize every dollar I put in it doesn't increase its value at all, but here is my math. We looked at a 2010 Ford Taurus with all the same options basically- 63,000 miles- $12,500. So if I bought that car to replace the Lincoln to actually be smart decision I would have to have the Lincoln cost me over $12,500 in repairs in the next 4 years which literally isn't possible. It's a newer car but really no other options. You usually never buy a newer or new car because it's financially feasible. You buy because you WANT a new/ newer car. You can always fix cheaper and unless it's brand new, the newer car could break down too. Just my logic. The Lincoln has hit max.depreciation so you can look at that too. Insurance is cheaper and liability is all you need because you can absorb the loss.
Currently on a 2002 Lincoln as well that I bought 7 years ago at 22K miles for $9K cash. Starting to get a little concerned at the 75K mile mark now because no doubt somethings will be showing up in this 75K-125K mile range....especially at 15-16 yrs old. It's still very nice looking with excellent paint. Unexpected repairs ($800) included the radiator (trans cooler leak) and one front axle (tone ring)...everything else came as expected. Car is worth around $4500 now. Tempted to move into something about 5-7 years newer just to keep ahead of advancing age....????
I have the 95, Can't say it is trouble free but it had the following issues.
Bought with 70K for about 7k, long ago in 01...
Had all records, owned by company, serviced by a very good dealer who is now out of business...then I got it
5k oci and 30K transmission fluid services...
No problems till 03:
Radiator fan blows (I bought a cheap warranty with the car and it covered it).
No problems till 08:
A spring in the engine broke. There is an issue with that in the early DOHCs. Luckily the valve wasn't damaged. Was a 5 dollar repair (literally) but I was told to replace the engine. i diagnosed it with a scan tool and compression test. then i took it to a dealer to ask what their opinion was. He was sure a valve was bent. I fixed it with the rope trick, and someone at Ford lent me a tool. still runs perfect.
Heated seats went, put in a kit, works fine.
At 145K the 4 wheel air suspension died. Didn't want to replace it (felt it was too much in parts for the price, but it was a great system, even for a car today). replaced it with f/r springs, also new ball joints, tie rod ends, stab links,etc.
I got an amazing deal on quick struts from Prime Choice Parts (yes, i know), but they are still ok. they were noisy at first and they gave me some money back from them, but the noise went away. I spent about $500 in parts.
Latest repair I posted about here, power steering pump, lucky I was able to replace a fitting without dropping the subframe to replace the rest of the line. Part from ford was about $100 bucks.
Other things, rusty brake lines that I replaced, alternator, brakes, calipers, rotors, hoses, etc. Rear tone rings rusted out in the back, had to get two new hubs, with Speedperks and discounts I paid around 50 for both.
It is a very reliable car. What would something like this cost today? Probably 60-70 grand. Certainly worth it to me, but some of the repairs could have been expensive if I didn't do them.
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
We had 0 problems with the 02 Lincoln Continental until 120,000 miles then it was everything. I realize every dollar I put in it doesn't increase its value at all, but here is my math. We looked at a 2010 Ford Taurus with all the same options basically- 63,000 miles- $12,500. So if I bought that car to replace the Lincoln to actually be smart decision I would have to have the Lincoln cost me over $12,500 in repairs in the next 4 years which literally isn't possible. It's a newer car but really no other options. You usually never buy a newer or new car because it's financially feasible. You buy because you WANT a new/ newer car. You can always fix cheaper and unless it's brand new, the newer car could break down too. Just my logic. The Lincoln has hit max.depreciation so you can look at that too. Insurance is cheaper and liability is all you need because you can absorb the loss.
Currently on a 2002 Lincoln as well that I bought 7 years ago at 22K miles for $9K cash. Starting to get a little concerned at the 75K mile mark now because no doubt somethings will be showing up in this 75K-125K mile range....especially at 15-16 yrs old. It's still very nice looking with excellent paint. Unexpected repairs ($800) included the radiator (trans cooler leak) and one front axle (tone ring)...everything else came as expected. Car is worth around $4500 now. Tempted to move into something about 5-7 years newer just to keep ahead of advancing age....????
I have the 95, Can't say it is trouble free but it had the following issues.
Bought with 70K for about 7k, long ago in 01...
Had all records, owned by company, serviced by a very good dealer who is now out of business...then I got it
5k oci and 30K transmission fluid services...
No problems till 03:
Radiator fan blows (I bought a cheap warranty with the car and it covered it).
No problems till 08:
A spring in the engine broke. There is an issue with that in the early DOHCs. Luckily the valve wasn't damaged. Was a 5 dollar repair (literally) but I was told to replace the engine. i diagnosed it with a scan tool and compression test. then i took it to a dealer to ask what their opinion was. He was sure a valve was bent. I fixed it with the rope trick, and someone at Ford lent me a tool. still runs perfect.
Heated seats went, put in a kit, works fine.
At 145K the 4 wheel air suspension died. Didn't want to replace it (felt it was too much in parts for the price, but it was a great system, even for a car today). replaced it with f/r springs, also new ball joints, tie rod ends, stab links,etc.
I got an amazing deal on quick struts from Prime Choice Parts (yes, i know), but they are still ok. they were noisy at first and they gave me some money back from them, but the noise went away. I spent about $500 in parts.
Latest repair I posted about here, power steering pump, lucky I was able to replace a fitting without dropping the subframe to replace the rest of the line. Part from ford was about $100 bucks.
Other things, rusty brake lines that I replaced, alternator, brakes, calipers, rotors, hoses, etc. Rear tone rings rusted out in the back, had to get two new hubs, with Speedperks and discounts I paid around 50 for both.
It is a very reliable car. What would something like this cost today? Probably 60-70 grand. Certainly worth it to me, but some of the repairs could have been expensive if I didn't do them.
Originally Posted By: Red91
The Roadmaster is the perfect car for me, as it's big, comfortable, and very handy. Very few things I can't do with it that I could with a truck. Plus I can repair virtually anything that might need to be and do it cheap. Its old and worn out(worn in I say) but I wouldn't have it any other way. I'll drive it into the ground, repair it, and do it again. Anyone with a little common sense and some redneck ingenuity can keep anything running for a long time.
I would compare it to the Panther, cars built to keep a long time. Ford was even thoughtful enough to put coatings on all their metal lines(after 98) in the Panthers, they figured people will be keeping them very long.
The Roadmaster is the perfect car for me, as it's big, comfortable, and very handy. Very few things I can't do with it that I could with a truck. Plus I can repair virtually anything that might need to be and do it cheap. Its old and worn out(worn in I say) but I wouldn't have it any other way. I'll drive it into the ground, repair it, and do it again. Anyone with a little common sense and some redneck ingenuity can keep anything running for a long time.
I would compare it to the Panther, cars built to keep a long time. Ford was even thoughtful enough to put coatings on all their metal lines(after 98) in the Panthers, they figured people will be keeping them very long.
Originally Posted By: ford46guy
Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
We had 0 problems with the 02 Lincoln Continental until 120,000 miles then it was everything. I realize every dollar I put in it doesn't increase its value at all, but here is my math. We looked at a 2010 Ford Taurus with all the same options basically- 63,000 miles- $12,500. So if I bought that car to replace the Lincoln to actually be smart decision I would have to have the Lincoln cost me over $12,500 in repairs in the next 4 years which literally isn't possible. It's a newer car but really no other options. You usually never buy a newer or new car because it's financially feasible. You buy because you WANT a new/ newer car. You can always fix cheaper and unless it's brand new, the newer car could break down too. Just my logic. The Lincoln has hit max.depreciation so you can look at that too. Insurance is cheaper and liability is all you need because you can absorb the loss.
Currently on a 2002 Lincoln as well that I bought 7 years ago at 22K miles for $9K cash. Starting to get a little concerned at the 75K mile mark now because no doubt somethings will be showing up in this 75K-125K mile range....especially at 15-16 yrs old. It's still very nice looking with excellent paint. Unexpected repairs ($800) included the radiator (trans cooler leak) and one front axle (tone ring)...everything else came as expected. Car is worth around $4500 now. Tempted to move into something about 5-7 years newer just to keep ahead of advancing age....????
I have the 95, Can't say it is trouble free but it had the following issues.
Bought with 70K for about 7k, long ago in 01...
Had all records, owned by company, serviced by a very good dealer who is now out of business...then I got it
5k oci and 30K transmission fluid services...
No problems till 03:
Radiator fan blows (I bought a cheap warranty with the car and it covered it).
No problems till 08:
A spring in the engine broke. There is an issue with that in the early DOHCs. Luckily the valve wasn't damaged. Was a 5 dollar repair (literally) but I was told to replace the engine. i diagnosed it with a scan tool and compression test. then i took it to a dealer to ask what their opinion was. He was sure a valve was bent. I fixed it with the rope trick, and someone at Ford lent me a tool. still runs perfect.
Heated seats went, put in a kit, works fine.
At 145K the 4 wheel air suspension died. Didn't want to replace it (felt it was too much in parts for the price, but it was a great system, even for a car today). replaced it with f/r springs, also new ball joints, tie rod ends, stab links,etc.
I got an amazing deal on quick struts from Prime Choice Parts (yes, i know), but they are still ok. they were noisy at first and they gave me some money back from them, but the noise went away. I spent about $500 in parts.
Latest repair I posted about here, power steering pump, lucky I was able to replace a fitting without dropping the subframe to replace the rest of the line. Part from ford was about $100 bucks.
Other things, rusty brake lines that I replaced, alternator, brakes, calipers, rotors, hoses, etc. Rear tone rings rusted out in the back, had to get two new hubs, with Speedperks and discounts I paid around 50 for both.
It is a very reliable car. What would something like this cost today? Probably 60-70 grand. Certainly worth it to me, but some of the repairs could have been expensive if I didn't do them.
Your experiences mirror my 1997 Continental which I got from my Dad in 2001 with 29K miles. It was pretty trouble free up to the 150K-175K mile range. But it nickled and dimed me up to 230K when I finally scrapped it. Not being as handy as you, that car should have gone away in the 125K-175K mile range. 7-8 winters of daily commuting really took a toll on the undercarriage. Still, I was driving on the original air suspension (though leaking) all the way. Not a fan of the air ride because of the complexity vs. plain old springs.
Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
We had 0 problems with the 02 Lincoln Continental until 120,000 miles then it was everything. I realize every dollar I put in it doesn't increase its value at all, but here is my math. We looked at a 2010 Ford Taurus with all the same options basically- 63,000 miles- $12,500. So if I bought that car to replace the Lincoln to actually be smart decision I would have to have the Lincoln cost me over $12,500 in repairs in the next 4 years which literally isn't possible. It's a newer car but really no other options. You usually never buy a newer or new car because it's financially feasible. You buy because you WANT a new/ newer car. You can always fix cheaper and unless it's brand new, the newer car could break down too. Just my logic. The Lincoln has hit max.depreciation so you can look at that too. Insurance is cheaper and liability is all you need because you can absorb the loss.
Currently on a 2002 Lincoln as well that I bought 7 years ago at 22K miles for $9K cash. Starting to get a little concerned at the 75K mile mark now because no doubt somethings will be showing up in this 75K-125K mile range....especially at 15-16 yrs old. It's still very nice looking with excellent paint. Unexpected repairs ($800) included the radiator (trans cooler leak) and one front axle (tone ring)...everything else came as expected. Car is worth around $4500 now. Tempted to move into something about 5-7 years newer just to keep ahead of advancing age....????
I have the 95, Can't say it is trouble free but it had the following issues.
Bought with 70K for about 7k, long ago in 01...
Had all records, owned by company, serviced by a very good dealer who is now out of business...then I got it
5k oci and 30K transmission fluid services...
No problems till 03:
Radiator fan blows (I bought a cheap warranty with the car and it covered it).
No problems till 08:
A spring in the engine broke. There is an issue with that in the early DOHCs. Luckily the valve wasn't damaged. Was a 5 dollar repair (literally) but I was told to replace the engine. i diagnosed it with a scan tool and compression test. then i took it to a dealer to ask what their opinion was. He was sure a valve was bent. I fixed it with the rope trick, and someone at Ford lent me a tool. still runs perfect.
Heated seats went, put in a kit, works fine.
At 145K the 4 wheel air suspension died. Didn't want to replace it (felt it was too much in parts for the price, but it was a great system, even for a car today). replaced it with f/r springs, also new ball joints, tie rod ends, stab links,etc.
I got an amazing deal on quick struts from Prime Choice Parts (yes, i know), but they are still ok. they were noisy at first and they gave me some money back from them, but the noise went away. I spent about $500 in parts.
Latest repair I posted about here, power steering pump, lucky I was able to replace a fitting without dropping the subframe to replace the rest of the line. Part from ford was about $100 bucks.
Other things, rusty brake lines that I replaced, alternator, brakes, calipers, rotors, hoses, etc. Rear tone rings rusted out in the back, had to get two new hubs, with Speedperks and discounts I paid around 50 for both.
It is a very reliable car. What would something like this cost today? Probably 60-70 grand. Certainly worth it to me, but some of the repairs could have been expensive if I didn't do them.
Your experiences mirror my 1997 Continental which I got from my Dad in 2001 with 29K miles. It was pretty trouble free up to the 150K-175K mile range. But it nickled and dimed me up to 230K when I finally scrapped it. Not being as handy as you, that car should have gone away in the 125K-175K mile range. 7-8 winters of daily commuting really took a toll on the undercarriage. Still, I was driving on the original air suspension (though leaking) all the way. Not a fan of the air ride because of the complexity vs. plain old springs.
I see the shiny new trucks some of my co-workers drive to work, and I think maybe I shouldn't be so cheap and get my own shiny new truck. But when I cruise the dealer lots and look at the window stickers, I get major sticker shock, and walk back to my old car (I'm into Buicks now) trembling, shaking my head and muttering. I pat the old Buick on the dash and say "a few more years".
Originally Posted By: ford46guy
Originally Posted By: Red91
The Roadmaster is the perfect car for me, as it's big, comfortable, and very handy. Very few things I can't do with it that I could with a truck. Plus I can repair virtually anything that might need to be and do it cheap. Its old and worn out(worn in I say) but I wouldn't have it any other way. I'll drive it into the ground, repair it, and do it again. Anyone with a little common sense and some redneck ingenuity can keep anything running for a long time.
I would compare it to the Panther, cars built to keep a long time. Ford was even thoughtful enough to put coatings on all their metal lines(after 98) in the Panthers, they figured people will be keeping them very long.
Outside of the big 3, coated brake lines were a common thing by then. Not really a big deal, even in '98.
Every vehicle has it's own set of problems. Even the panther platform cars. Frankly, I don't expect the long term cost of ownership between my Crown Vic and Malibu to be significantly different. Both will need repairs, both will need maintenance. A brake job on the Crown Vic costs just as much as a brake job on the Malibu. Tires? Same. fluids, filters, thermostats, shocks, struts, balljoints, tie rod ends...all wear items and are similar in price.
As has been mentioned, as long as you keep the rot away, the old cars are always worth fixing. Replacing parts is simply nuts and bolts (after all, we call them grease MONKEYS), right? However, once the rot sets in, things start to get interesting. Not only are the repairs more time consuming, but the cars are then usually at an age where some obscure parts aren't readily available anymore. And somehow, after frustration has set in, those rusted out out obscure parts are the ones keeping you from finishing the job!
As a fella who grew up driving and maintaining 20-30 year old Wisconsin native Cadillacs, I can see both sides of the coin. Keeping and repair old cars can be inconvenient. However, if your focus is solely on the financial side of things, it will ALWAYS be cheaper long term. Old cars aren't worth anything. They're all done depreciating. Relative to eating the depreciation on a new car (they're all essentially worth nothing, eventually), even the most expensive repairs cost peanuts in comparison.
For example, I could go replace one of my cars with something new right now. I'd probably lose $5k the instance the tires hit the street. In comparison, my older (but hardly old) car might depreciate $1k this year, leaving me with $4k left over to spend on repairs. $4k. I could probably replace the entire powertrain and still come out ahead. The numbers become more and more in the old car's favor as the depreciation lessens.
Originally Posted By: Red91
The Roadmaster is the perfect car for me, as it's big, comfortable, and very handy. Very few things I can't do with it that I could with a truck. Plus I can repair virtually anything that might need to be and do it cheap. Its old and worn out(worn in I say) but I wouldn't have it any other way. I'll drive it into the ground, repair it, and do it again. Anyone with a little common sense and some redneck ingenuity can keep anything running for a long time.
I would compare it to the Panther, cars built to keep a long time. Ford was even thoughtful enough to put coatings on all their metal lines(after 98) in the Panthers, they figured people will be keeping them very long.
Outside of the big 3, coated brake lines were a common thing by then. Not really a big deal, even in '98.
Every vehicle has it's own set of problems. Even the panther platform cars. Frankly, I don't expect the long term cost of ownership between my Crown Vic and Malibu to be significantly different. Both will need repairs, both will need maintenance. A brake job on the Crown Vic costs just as much as a brake job on the Malibu. Tires? Same. fluids, filters, thermostats, shocks, struts, balljoints, tie rod ends...all wear items and are similar in price.
As has been mentioned, as long as you keep the rot away, the old cars are always worth fixing. Replacing parts is simply nuts and bolts (after all, we call them grease MONKEYS), right? However, once the rot sets in, things start to get interesting. Not only are the repairs more time consuming, but the cars are then usually at an age where some obscure parts aren't readily available anymore. And somehow, after frustration has set in, those rusted out out obscure parts are the ones keeping you from finishing the job!
As a fella who grew up driving and maintaining 20-30 year old Wisconsin native Cadillacs, I can see both sides of the coin. Keeping and repair old cars can be inconvenient. However, if your focus is solely on the financial side of things, it will ALWAYS be cheaper long term. Old cars aren't worth anything. They're all done depreciating. Relative to eating the depreciation on a new car (they're all essentially worth nothing, eventually), even the most expensive repairs cost peanuts in comparison.
For example, I could go replace one of my cars with something new right now. I'd probably lose $5k the instance the tires hit the street. In comparison, my older (but hardly old) car might depreciate $1k this year, leaving me with $4k left over to spend on repairs. $4k. I could probably replace the entire powertrain and still come out ahead. The numbers become more and more in the old car's favor as the depreciation lessens.
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