Do you really need any thicker than 0W-20?

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Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: Rand
I'd stay conventional and change it frequently

Conventional/dino is either for people who don't know or for people whose engines burn oil.
wink.gif
With the prices of fully synthetic oil being so low nowadays, there is no reason to overlook their multitude of benefits in an engine that doesn't burn oil.

I went 5k miles and the oil was still very healthy. I don't intend to go more than 5k miles anyway.


Absurd comment. No matter how I cut the dice syn cost double over conventional. At 5000 mile intervals a conventional provides the same protection as syn,so at that mileage why spend double? That ridiculous.
I use conventionals as soon as the weather warms enough,and syns in our -40 winter. I like to change my oil and tinker with my vehicles but I don't like to waste money. I'm sensible and I don't need to spend double only to achieve the same mileage and think I'm doing my engine some kind of favour by running a syn.
Warm fuzzies sound expensive.
Your correct about the "people who don't know". A fool and his money are soon parted.

Have to agree with Gokhan on this one.
Syn' oils are so prevalent now that you will get pricing overlaps
between premium name brand dinos and syn' oils.
In Canada TGMO 0W-20 is regularly priced at $5.65/L.
That's in the same retail price range that Pennzoil, Castrol, Mobil et al, charge for their 5W-20 dino's by the quart/litre when not on sale.
In another thread it talked about PU on sale for $2.85/quart in the States. The point is, oil is cheap in NA and you can get syn' oil cheaply. That why I don't bother buying dino as it's usually false economy to bother with.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: CMMeadAM
in MANY applications, you need MORE than a 20 grade oil

Exactly! I would love to run oil as thin as possible, it brings HP and fuel economy but i don't want to risk the engine if its not built for it.

Unfortunately there are some that say monitor your oil temp and pressure and tailor the oil to the engine that way. It doesn't work and is an armchair ball game, the reality is very different.

I see engines every day and have noticed a few things over the years. Blocks today have a lot of supporting ribs in the block to add rigidity, main bearings are wider and more are using 4 bolts or studs once the realm of high HP engines.
Crank materials are better and stronger than ever before, all this adds up to a very strong and rigid bottom end.

This type of construction is ideal for low viscosity oils, in fact running thicker oils may cause excessive heat from friction and have a bad effect on the bearings.
So what happens running lower viscosity oils in a less than ideal bottom end? Sure the pressure may be okay and the oil temp may be fine but what happens when driven hard?
The crank may flex and actually hit the bearings, this over time will wipe them out.

The problem is the the pressure temp thing is you will never see this occur on a gauge, once the crank regains its composure everything is back to normal.
Before attempting to run low viscosity oil in an older engine or one not spec'd for it you have to know a lot about the internal construction and know enough about it to make an informed decision.
Adding an oil pressure and temp gauge is not a bad thing its just not going to give you enough information under all conditions.

morning rant over.

Not true.
OT and OP gauge will tell you what your operational viscosity is for every second the engine in running. With experience you will know what minimum OP is required to maintain an adequate operating viscosity to avoid running an oil that is too light.

It's the reason I run 50+wt oil in older engines of mine and 20wt oils in more modern engines.


You're telling Trav about experience?
lol.gif


Trav is spot on. Oil temp and pressure are only part of the equation.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Your correct about the "people who don't know". A fool and his money are soon parted.

The regular price of dino oil at the auto stores is $5.59 per quart bottle. I got the Toyota 0W-20 SN for $5.96 from my local dealer. The savings are really tiny. In fact, if I drove 22 miles to Carson Toyota, I could get it for $5.29.
 
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: CMMeadAM
in MANY applications, you need MORE than a 20 grade oil

Exactly! I would love to run oil as thin as possible, it brings HP and fuel economy but i don't want to risk the engine if its not built for it.

Unfortunately there are some that say monitor your oil temp and pressure and tailor the oil to the engine that way. It doesn't work and is an armchair ball game, the reality is very different.

I see engines every day and have noticed a few things over the years. Blocks today have a lot of supporting ribs in the block to add rigidity, main bearings are wider and more are using 4 bolts or studs once the realm of high HP engines.
Crank materials are better and stronger than ever before, all this adds up to a very strong and rigid bottom end.

This type of construction is ideal for low viscosity oils, in fact running thicker oils may cause excessive heat from friction and have a bad effect on the bearings.
So what happens running lower viscosity oils in a less than ideal bottom end? Sure the pressure may be okay and the oil temp may be fine but what happens when driven hard?
The crank may flex and actually hit the bearings, this over time will wipe them out.

The problem is the the pressure temp thing is you will never see this occur on a gauge, once the crank regains its composure everything is back to normal.
Before attempting to run low viscosity oil in an older engine or one not spec'd for it you have to know a lot about the internal construction and know enough about it to make an informed decision.
Adding an oil pressure and temp gauge is not a bad thing its just not going to give you enough information under all conditions.

morning rant over.

Not true.
OT and OP gauge will tell you what your operational viscosity is for every second the engine in running. With experience you will know what minimum OP is required to maintain an adequate operating viscosity to avoid running an oil that is too light.

It's the reason I run 50+wt oil in older engines of mine and 20wt oils in more modern engines.


You're telling Trav about experience?
lol.gif


Trav is spot on. Oil temp and pressure are only part of the equation.

And how else are you going to determine the operational viscosity of an oil in a given application? You can't without gauges.
The following chart from Joe Gibbs Racing discusses the subject matter:

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/viscosity
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: CMMeadAM
in MANY applications, you need MORE than a 20 grade oil

Exactly! I would love to run oil as thin as possible, it brings HP and fuel economy but i don't want to risk the engine if its not built for it.

Unfortunately there are some that say monitor your oil temp and pressure and tailor the oil to the engine that way. It doesn't work and is an armchair ball game, the reality is very different.

I see engines every day and have noticed a few things over the years. Blocks today have a lot of supporting ribs in the block to add rigidity, main bearings are wider and more are using 4 bolts or studs once the realm of high HP engines.
Crank materials are better and stronger than ever before, all this adds up to a very strong and rigid bottom end.

This type of construction is ideal for low viscosity oils, in fact running thicker oils may cause excessive heat from friction and have a bad effect on the bearings.
So what happens running lower viscosity oils in a less than ideal bottom end? Sure the pressure may be okay and the oil temp may be fine but what happens when driven hard?
The crank may flex and actually hit the bearings, this over time will wipe them out.

The problem is the the pressure temp thing is you will never see this occur on a gauge, once the crank regains its composure everything is back to normal.
Before attempting to run low viscosity oil in an older engine or one not spec'd for it you have to know a lot about the internal construction and know enough about it to make an informed decision.
Adding an oil pressure and temp gauge is not a bad thing its just not going to give you enough information under all conditions.

morning rant over.




Nice informative post Trav. I would not call it a rant!
 
Originally Posted By: FoxS
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: CMMeadAM
in MANY applications, you need MORE than a 20 grade oil

Exactly! I would love to run oil as thin as possible, it brings HP and fuel economy but i don't want to risk the engine if its not built for it.

Unfortunately there are some that say monitor your oil temp and pressure and tailor the oil to the engine that way. It doesn't work and is an armchair ball game, the reality is very different.

I see engines every day and have noticed a few things over the years. Blocks today have a lot of supporting ribs in the block to add rigidity, main bearings are wider and more are using 4 bolts or studs once the realm of high HP engines.
Crank materials are better and stronger than ever before, all this adds up to a very strong and rigid bottom end.

This type of construction is ideal for low viscosity oils, in fact running thicker oils may cause excessive heat from friction and have a bad effect on the bearings.
So what happens running lower viscosity oils in a less than ideal bottom end? Sure the pressure may be okay and the oil temp may be fine but what happens when driven hard?
The crank may flex and actually hit the bearings, this over time will wipe them out.

The problem is the the pressure temp thing is you will never see this occur on a gauge, once the crank regains its composure everything is back to normal.
Before attempting to run low viscosity oil in an older engine or one not spec'd for it you have to know a lot about the internal construction and know enough about it to make an informed decision.
Adding an oil pressure and temp gauge is not a bad thing its just not going to give you enough information under all conditions.

morning rant over.




Nice informative post Trav. I would not call it a rant!

Except he is incorrect in drawing the conclusion that since oil pressure may not detect crankshaft flex an OP gauge is therefore not useful in determining the minimum operational viscosity an engine requires.
Whether a crank flexes is immaterial. For example, if it has been determined that an engine requires a minimum operational viscosity represented by an OP of 50 psi at 5,000 rpm to avoid lubrication issues of any sort (including as crank flex) then that's what you need. The oil grade to maintain that minimum OP will be determined largely by oil temperature.
So yes you can run a 20wt or lighter oil if the oil temp's are kept low enough to maintain the minimum required OP.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
And how else are you going to determine the operational viscosity of an oil in a given application? You can't without gauges.
The following chart from Joe Gibbs Racing discusses the subject matter:

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/viscosity


I didn't say gauges were not important. I'm simply correcting you in that using OP/OT to determine optimal viscosity for every engine is wrong and very Haas of you.

Your bearings could very well do fine on a thin oil, but given Trav's example, may be wiped due to crank flex under shock load where the OP and OT are still "OK". This doesn't even touch on other engine areas like timing chains, timing gears or valvetrain requirements where a lower HTHS oil may appear fine in the bearings, but not properly lubricate these components under ALL conditions.
 
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
And how else are you going to determine the operational viscosity of an oil in a given application? You can't without gauges.
The following chart from Joe Gibbs Racing discusses the subject matter:

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/viscosity


I didn't say gauges were not important. I'm simply correcting you in that using OP/OT to determine optimal viscosity for every engine is wrong and very Haas of you.

Your bearings could very well do fine on a thin oil, but given Trav's example, may be wiped due to crank flex under shock load where the OP and OT are still "OK". This doesn't even touch on other engine areas like timing chains, timing gears or valvetrain requirements where a lower HTHS oil may appear fine in the bearings, but not properly lubricate these components under ALL conditions.

That's funny "very Haas of you".
One area where I disagree with Dr. Haas does apply to the importance of HTHSV or specifically the HTHSV rating methodology.
HTHSV correlates with oil pressure and I wrote a piece about it:

http://wwwo.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2276634&page=1

In determining the minimum viscosity requirements of an engine shock loads must of course be included. Naturally one must know what minimum OP value that represents. Since viscosity is a function of oil temperature, the grade of oil required and therefore the HTHSV rating of the oil required to maintain that minimum OP in temperature related.
That's why you can run a 800 HP NASCAR Sprint engine on a 1.7cP HTHSV 5wt qualifying oil for a few laps as long as the engine oil doesn't get above a predetermined maximum temperature.
 
The only reservation I have about putting a quality 0W-20 in my old engine or vehicle is if I will suddenly see puddles under the engine whereas I did not see any before. So far, my approach appears to be to mix the oils 50/50 - 50% conventional of the normal grade, and the other 50% the high tech oil. Thinner does yield better and best results, makes engine sound better, everything. I prefer a 50/50 blend of the old tech and new tech oil, for peace of mind.

Oil may not cause leaks, but it has been said repeatedly that it can clean things away.. therefore, causing leaks.

As to the viscosity, as long as my oil pressure gauge doesn't blink, I am happy with it.
 
Do you have an actual OP gauge or just the oil light?
Ultimately you'd want a proper OP gauge.

A compromise approach is to run a very high viscosity index oil of the heavier grade. Unfortunately there are very few ultra high VI 0W/5W-30 oil from which to buy but if you're into blending you can make your own.
A 50/50 blend of TGMO 0W-20 (216 VI) and M1 0W-40 (185 VI) will give you a 0W-30 with a 200 VI. The benefit being it will be just as light on start-up at non extreme temp's as a 5W-20 with the in high temperature protection of a 30wt oil.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
And how else are you going to determine the operational viscosity of an oil in a given application? You can't without gauges.
The following chart from Joe Gibbs Racing discusses the subject matter:

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/viscosity


I didn't say gauges were not important. I'm simply correcting you in that using OP/OT to determine optimal viscosity for every engine is wrong and very Haas of you.

Your bearings could very well do fine on a thin oil, but given Trav's example, may be wiped due to crank flex under shock load where the OP and OT are still "OK". This doesn't even touch on other engine areas like timing chains, timing gears or valvetrain requirements where a lower HTHS oil may appear fine in the bearings, but not properly lubricate these components under ALL conditions.

That's funny "very Haas of you".
One area where I disagree with Dr. Haas does apply to the importance of HTHSV or specifically the HTHSV rating methodology.
HTHSV correlates with oil pressure and I wrote a piece about it:

http://wwwo.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2276634&page=1

In determining the minimum viscosity requirements of an engine shock loads must of course be included. Naturally one must know what minimum OP value that represents. Since viscosity is a function of oil temperature, the grade of oil required and therefore the HTHSV rating of the oil required to maintain that minimum OP in temperature related.
That's why you can run a 800 HP NASCAR Sprint engine on a 1.7cP HTHSV 5wt qualifying oil for a few laps as long as the engine oil doesn't get above a predetermined maximum temperature.


Originally Posted By: Caterham
In determining the minimum viscosity requirements of an engine shock loads must of course be included. Naturally one must know what minimum OP value that represents. Since viscosity is a function of oil temperature, the grade of oil required and therefore the HTHSV rating of the oil required to maintain that minimum OP in temperature related.
That's why you can run a 800 HP NASCAR Sprint engine on a 1.7cP HTHSV 5wt qualifying oil for a few laps as long as the engine oil doesn't get above a predetermined maximum temperature.

NASCAR engines have no problem with low viscosity oils they have a super rigid block and crank and very close clearance bearings with big fat journals, the only think old school about these engines is they are V8's but that about it. These engines are purpose "built" for low viscosity oils so why would they have any issues?

Here is the problem i have with using gauges as a primary vehicle for determining optimal oil viscosity.
Its true that on a normal mundane daily grocery getter most of my argument is somewhat irrelevant but whenever the HP numbers and the level of engine abuse rises my argument becomes very relevant IMO.

Once engine HP reaches a certain point the block and crank rigidity play a much more important role in keeping the bearings alive.
The oil pressure gauge port may not even realize a millisecond drop in pressure from the oil film being broken by a mechanical collision between crank and main bearing.
At best it would probably be a slight needle variation that would probably go completely unnoticed. At worst the gauge does nothing at all.

IMHO from my own observations and technical data on the engines over the last 15 years they fall basically into 2 camps. They can both utilize lower and higher viscosity oils as they are both world engines.
Lets keep it simple and call them Japanese and American engines because they seem to fall into these camps easier than say German, Italian or French.

They all use a bearing with enough clearance to utilize a multitude of viscosities but the Japanese built the engines closer to being a purpose built low viscosity oil engine.
Their engines use rigid block and high grade well supported cranks basically eliminating crank flex or block distortion from the equation.
Now the American manufacturers like Ford liked the idea of better fuel economy and free HP so they jumped on the bandwagon. The problem is their engines was essentially "old school" including the original modulars.

In light use they could "get away" with 20w but knew that at some point crank flex was going to come into play either from the cast crank or block distortion.
Either one of these conditions can come from either of two areas, high RPM or high torque loads.
Their answer to this was to place a GVW proviso on some engines being back spec'd. They later made slight improvement and were able to utilize lower viscosity oils to their full extent.

GM and others didn't go this route. Their engines were closer to old school engines, cast cranks and not so rigid blocks. Larger bearing clearances and old style oil pumps almost demand they use a higher viscosity.
Even their High HP engines that did use a forged crank and 4 bolt mains were built somewhat "loose" in the old school HP engine building fashion. It doesn't make their engines any worse or any better.
All companies are now moving in the low viscosity direction and rightfully so, there are a lot of advantages and very few if any disadvantages other than needing a very high quality oil that may cost more.

IMO Claiming oil pressure and temp gauges can be used in selecting the lowest working viscosity oil in an engine is a fools errand.
I have seen posted that PP 5w-30 is preferable to PU 5w-30 solely because its thinner, this may not be true at all. The engine requiring the xw-30 were not built with low viscosity oils in mind and are constructed accordingly.

Just my take on it. Caterham you have presented a lot of valid arguments for lower viscosity oils i wont deny that but i believe i have some valid point here.
 
A couple of really good references on hydrodynamic lubrication of journal bearings, definitely worth reading:

Reference 1
Reference 2

Another reference I gave previously, more technical but a little less instructive:

Reference 3

fetch.php


The worry is that if the viscosity is too low, you can enter the mixed-lubrication regime, where metal-to-metal contact starts and there is potentially catastrophic unstable equilibrium leading to increased friction, which leads to more heat, which leads to decreased viscosity, which leads to more metal-to-metal contact, which leads to more friction, which leads to more heat and even less viscosity until your bearings are toast. Note that the piston rings also partially operate under the hydrodynamic-lubrication regime, to which the same theory applies.

However, HTHS viscosity of 0W-20 is 2.6 cP or more, which is only slightly less than the 3.0 - 3.1 cP of a typical 5W-30 or 10W-30. Moreover, less hydrodynamic friction created by lower viscosity results in less oil-temperature rise due to friction inside the bearings, which in turn results in less viscosity decrease inside the bearings. On top of that, in a quality fully synthetic oil, you get excellent viscosity-index improvers and an excellent viscosity index, which further help to keep the oil thick under extreme mechanical and thermal stress. Therefore, there is no drastic change of oil-film strength from a 5W-30 (or even a 10W-30) to a quality fully synthetic 0W-20.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
And how else are you going to determine the operational viscosity of an oil in a given application? You can't without gauges.
The following chart from Joe Gibbs Racing discusses the subject matter:

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/viscosity


I didn't say gauges were not important. I'm simply correcting you in that using OP/OT to determine optimal viscosity for every engine is wrong and very Haas of you.

Your bearings could very well do fine on a thin oil, but given Trav's example, may be wiped due to crank flex under shock load where the OP and OT are still "OK". This doesn't even touch on other engine areas like timing chains, timing gears or valvetrain requirements where a lower HTHS oil may appear fine in the bearings, but not properly lubricate these components under ALL conditions.

That's funny "very Haas of you".
One area where I disagree with Dr. Haas does apply to the importance of HTHSV or specifically the HTHSV rating methodology.
HTHSV correlates with oil pressure and I wrote a piece about it:

http://wwwo.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2276634&page=1

In determining the minimum viscosity requirements of an engine shock loads must of course be included. Naturally one must know what minimum OP value that represents. Since viscosity is a function of oil temperature, the grade of oil required and therefore the HTHSV rating of the oil required to maintain that minimum OP in temperature related.
That's why you can run a 800 HP NASCAR Sprint engine on a 1.7cP HTHSV 5wt qualifying oil for a few laps as long as the engine oil doesn't get above a predetermined maximum temperature.


Originally Posted By: Caterham
In determining the minimum viscosity requirements of an engine shock loads must of course be included. Naturally one must know what minimum OP value that represents. Since viscosity is a function of oil temperature, the grade of oil required and therefore the HTHSV rating of the oil required to maintain that minimum OP in temperature related.
That's why you can run a 800 HP NASCAR Sprint engine on a 1.7cP HTHSV 5wt qualifying oil for a few laps as long as the engine oil doesn't get above a predetermined maximum temperature.

NASCAR engines have no problem with low viscosity oils they have a super rigid block and crank and very close clearance bearings with big fat journals, the only think old school about these engines is they are V8's but that about it. These engines are purpose "built" for low viscosity oils so why would they have any issues?

Here is the problem i have with using gauges as a primary vehicle for determining optimal oil viscosity.
Its true that on a normal mundane daily grocery getter most of my argument is somewhat irrelevant but whenever the HP numbers and the level of engine abuse rises my argument becomes very relevant IMO.

Once engine HP reaches a certain point the block and crank rigidity play a much more important role in keeping the bearings alive.
The oil pressure gauge port may not even realize a millisecond drop in pressure from the oil film being broken by a mechanical collision between crank and main bearing.
At best it would probably be a slight needle variation that would probably go completely unnoticed. At worst the gauge does nothing at all.

IMHO from my own observations and technical data on the engines over the last 15 years they fall basically into 2 camps. They can both utilize lower and higher viscosity oils as they are both world engines.
Lets keep it simple and call them Japanese and American engines because they seem to fall into these camps easier than say German, Italian or French.

They all use a bearing with enough clearance to utilize a multitude of viscosities but the Japanese built the engines closer to being a purpose built low viscosity oil engine.
Their engines use rigid block and high grade well supported cranks basically eliminating crank flex or block distortion from the equation.
Now the American manufacturers like Ford liked the idea of better fuel economy and free HP so they jumped on the bandwagon. The problem is their engines was essentially "old school" including the original modulars.

In light use they could "get away" with 20w but knew that at some point crank flex was going to come into play either from the cast crank or block distortion.
Either one of these conditions can come from either of two areas, high RPM or high torque loads.
Their answer to this was to place a GVW proviso on some engines being back spec'd. They later made slight improvement and were able to utilize lower viscosity oils to their full extent.

GM and others didn't go this route. Their engines were closer to old school engines, cast cranks and not so rigid blocks. Larger bearing clearances and old style oil pumps almost demand they use a higher viscosity.
Even their High HP engines that did use a forged crank and 4 bolt mains were built somewhat "loose" in the old school HP engine building fashion. It doesn't make their engines any worse or any better.
All companies are now moving in the low viscosity direction and rightfully so, there are a lot of advantages and very few if any disadvantages other than needing a very high quality oil that may cost more.

IMO Claiming oil pressure and temp gauges can be used in selecting the lowest working viscosity oil in an engine is a fools errand.
I have seen posted that PP 5w-30 is preferable to PU 5w-30 solely because its thinner, this may not be true at all. The engine requiring the xw-30 were not built with low viscosity oils in mind and are constructed accordingly.

Just my take on it. Caterham you have presented a lot of valid arguments for lower viscosity oils i wont deny that but i believe i have some valid point here.

I think you're over thinking this.
Taking a step back, I think we can agree that for any application there is minimum viscosity (operational) that is required for how an engine is being operated be that harshly or gentle; the former
requiring a higher viscosity safety cushion.
Through various means that viscosity safety cushion, not the oil grade but the actual minimum viscosity in cP, can be established.
One function of an oil pressure gauge is that it an effective viscosity meter, consequently it is not hard to establish a minimum OP reading that corresponds to the previously established
safe minimum operational viscosity for an engine operating under harsh conditions.
Once that minimum OP reading is known then one can determine what oil grade (specific oil viscosity) is suitable taking into consideration expected maximum oil temperatures and other secondary factors such as oil shear and fuel dilution that will affect an oils viscosity in service.

Saying that you can't run a 2.6cP 20wt oil (or even something lighter) in an engine implies that you can't maintain adequate OP. Because if you can maintain the previously established safe minimum OP then by definition you are maintaining an adequate operational oil viscosity. The grade itself is of no importance as the engine can't tell what it is. It could be a 60wt oil at 150C oil temp's or a 20wt at 90C, the operational viscosity could be identical.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Absurd comment. No matter how I cut the dice syn cost double over conventional. At 5000 mile intervals a conventional provides the same protection as syn,so at that mileage why spend double? That ridiculous.

Gokhan is pulling our chains, I suspect. He may lean towards synthetics, but he's used plenty of conventional lubes in the past, and unless he quit cold turkey without informing us, I bet he may again in the future. He has found some excellent deals on synthetic in his neck of the woods, so it doesn't surprise me that he's leaning more towards them.

Heck, even my thoughts on synthetics are beginning to soften given the fact that the stores aren't always charging close to $50 a jug anymore. But, I wouldn't spend the regular $26 that CT wants for a jug of PYB, either.
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Therefore, there is no drastic change of oil-film strength from a 5W-30 (or even a 10W-30) to a quality fully synthetic 0W-20

What about when compared to quality full synthetic 5w30?

Quote:
Saying that you can't run a 2.6cP 20wt oil (or even something lighter) in an engine implies that you can't maintain adequate OP. Because if you can maintain the previously established safe minimum OP then by definition you are maintaining an adequate operational oil viscosity

That makes the assumption that a 2.6 cP oil is enough to protect a high HP/output engine under all conditions it might encounter.

The Europeans don't seem to have much faith in this theory, most of their oil for these engines are HTHS 3.5+.
You can say i am over thinking this but i would say you are under estimating the importance of HTHS and block/crank rigidity and the boundary film offered by higher HTHS oils in engines that by design require it.

Marine engines are a perfect example of the necessity of stiff blocks and bottom end.
GM in this case has gone to great lengths to stiffen the bottom end.

http://gmpowertrain.com/2013_pdf/FHR_REV_6.0_Marine_010713.pdf

My question to you is why do they bother going to 6 bolt mains and super stiff block if the most relevent criteria is maintaining oil pressure with an oil of 2.6 cP?

Like i said i have no problems whatsoever using xw20 or xw16w oils in engines designed for them but they are putting warnings out for the xw16 oils about backwards compatibility.
Why is that if the xw16 with less than 2.4 cP couldn't be used in any engine as long as they can maintain oil pressure?

Could it be that unless the engine was specifically designed for this oil a less than 2.4 cP isn't enough to protect the engine?
Couldn't the same be said for a 2.6 cP oil in an old school engine? I believe it could.

I guess you and i will have to agree to disagree on this magical 2.6 CP number is able to provide optimal engine protection in any engine under any conditions.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: Rand
I'd stay conventional and change it frequently

Conventional/dino is either for people who don't know or for people whose engines burn oil.
wink.gif
With the prices of fully synthetic oil being so low nowadays, there is no reason to overlook their multitude of benefits in an engine that doesn't burn oil.

I went 5k miles and the oil was still very healthy. I don't intend to go more than 5k miles anyway.


Absurd comment. No matter how I cut the dice syn cost double over conventional. At 5000 mile intervals a conventional provides the same protection as syn,so at that mileage why spend double? That ridiculous.
I use conventionals as soon as the weather warms enough,and syns in our -40 winter. I like to change my oil and tinker with my vehicles but I don't like to waste money. I'm sensible and I don't need to spend double only to achieve the same mileage and think I'm doing my engine some kind of favour by running a syn.
Warm fuzzies sound expensive.
Your correct about the "people who don't know". A fool and his money are soon parted.

Have to agree with Gokhan on this one.
Syn' oils are so prevalent now that you will get pricing overlaps
between premium name brand dinos and syn' oils.
In Canada TGMO 0W-20 is regularly priced at $5.65/L.
That's in the same retail price range that Pennzoil, Castrol, Mobil et al, charge for their 5W-20 dino's by the quart/litre when not on sale.
In another thread it talked about PU on sale for $2.85/quart in the States. The point is, oil is cheap in NA and you can get syn' oil cheaply. That why I don't bother buying dino as it's usually false economy to bother with.



Since everybody likes to make apples to oranges comparisons with comparing synth sale prices to dino regular prices or Toyota oil that is subsidized by them and not a true price representation of synth oils, I'm gonna compare a $10 PYB jug to a $50 castrol syntec jug. Where is the false economy in that?
 
$21 QSUD to $15 PYB - regular Walmart Prices

Maybe more apples to apples:

Supertech full syn $17.47 vs
Supertech dino $12.20
 
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
The regular price of dino oil at the auto stores is $5.59 per quart bottle. I got the Toyota 0W-20 SN for $5.96 from my local dealer. The savings are really tiny. In fact, if I drove 22 miles to Carson Toyota, I could get it for $5.29.

From the numbers that I have seen posted on BITOG (as well as my own observations) for synthetic and conventional (sans rebates and the like) synthetic costs between 2 and 2.5 times more than conventional--such as the cost of MS5K (about $13) versus M1 (about $26) at WM. Therefore, it would seem that your numbers are fairly unique and may not be typical.

Additionally, if one is only running a synthetic for 5K, then would there not be a double loss in savings? i.e. the initial cost difference and the waste of not running the synthetic as long enough as it could be.
 
Originally Posted By: FoxS
$21 QSUD to $15 PYB - regular Walmart Prices

Maybe more apples to apples:

Supertech full syn $17.47 vs
Supertech dino $12.20


It's still geographically dependent. Up here, regular priced conventional at WM is $24.88 for 5 L across the board. The synthetic stuff is regularly priced in the mid/high forties to the low fifties (depending on the product line).

$21 QSUD is almost unheard of here, except for some very deep rollbacks. Even up in Canada, though, I'd be reluctant to pay $15 for PYB. The most expensive I've paid for it on rollback was around $13, and as low as $10 or $11.

As for ST, we don't get the synthetic, but a five gallon pail of the conventional goes for about $45, with occasional rollbacks to $6 per gallon.

As KrisZ points out, we can always cherry pick prices. I can get Edge with Titanium in SM/GF-4 on "closeout" up here at WM for $13.88 a litre. Or, I can buy PYB for the $10.88 for five quarts he quoted. At over six times the price, that Edge had better be some fantastic stuff.

10,000 km OCIs in the taxis on QS conventional - would I get 60,000 km out of the Edge? No, but it doesn't matter because that's an unfair comparison; whoever set that price at Walmart was obviously clueless.
 
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