Decarbonising rings
- Thread starter Flash635
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There is a 507.00 I added it sorry. There are not many options but I would still use one of the Mobil's over Penrite.
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OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
"should be OK" yes. You could certainly try a different oil though.
D
Deleted member 89374
It sounds like your 2005 Touareg R5 TDI is experiencing some blowby smoke, which can be caused by a variety of issues such as worn rings, cylinder walls, or valves. To address this issue, you may want to consider using a product that is specifically designed to decarbonize the oil rings and help restore engine performance. There are a number of different products on the market that claim to do this, but it can be difficult to know which ones are effective and safe to use.
One option you may want to consider is a product that contains a combination of cleaning agents and lubricants to help break up and remove carbon deposits from the oil rings and other engine components. These types of products are often applied through the engine's oil system and are designed to be used in conjunction with a normal oil change. It is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully when using these types of products, as using too much or using them improperly can potentially cause damage to the engine.
In terms of your concerns about the Nikasil bore lining, it is important to keep in mind that the Nikasil process is a specialized method of coating the cylinders in an engine with a thin layer of nickel silicon carbide. This type of coating is known for its durability and wear resistance, but it can be damaged by certain types of oil or additives. If you are using a product to decarbonize the oil rings in your engine, it is important to make sure that it is compatible with the Nikasil bore lining and will not cause any damage. You may want to consult with a mechanic or the product manufacturer to determine if the product you are considering using is safe for use in an engine with a Nikasil bore lining.
Great info, however I wouldn't consult a/my mechanic regarding the bore lining, too risky. I'd seek that info elsewhere.
This engine the R5 TDI PD engine has plasma coated bores not Nikasil, the older R5 TDI CR engine is an iron block.
These are usually best cleaned using a fuel additive and regular oil changes.
https://www.motorreviewer.com/engine.php?engine_id=89
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I don't disagree that there might be something better but it does work pretty good and there is always a bottle laying around the garage somewhere. I run it in everything , 4 Wheeler, mowers, and both my vehicles. Lubes the fuel injectors pretty good too. I would highly recommend it for anyone with a sticking injector.
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Pretty sure I was agreeing with you when I said "I don't disagree"
Some think MMO is Type-F. Regardless, I've used it in hot-soak cleaning along with Seafoam for great results in a 50 yo 413. Run it hot, pour it in at idle and kill it a second later, every time I drove. Repeated ~5 times.
Snake cam in a plug hole (intake was just as clean):
Attachments
Some think a lot of things here.
I'll look into the Rislone. Is it the idle for 10 minutes type or do you leave it in?
For oil I have to stay with VW 506.01. And it's not sold in Australia.
Why would I do short runs with an extended life oil?
So....I got a response to your question. I actually had this on my mind for some time, did some reading,etc and here goes. Apparently the original Rislone has been around for a long time from what I was told with customer service. If you use the HM Concentrate it will supposedly do a very slow version of what the EC30/40 from @High Performance Lubricants does. I was looking to something similar in my case. It was explained that a flush might remove things too aggressively and that using a few bottles on a few standard 4-5k mi oci would get you some results. I also got the answer that doing other practices to hit it from all possible angles would be a great way to go after the leviathan from using TT fuel with pea additive and topside cleaning of throttle / valves. I did this exact same thing with a case of LM Hydraulic Lifter Additive and all other means and got my consumption down to where fuel dilution and lead foot doesn't consume nearly the oil now. More than one way to skin a cat. Could do the EC30, could do it the way I described, could use something from HPL,Redline,etc that has a known ester content that's up for the job.
Two bottles of the concentrate run it for 100 miles, then change the oil and filter. Refill with fresh oil, a new filter and one bottle of the concentrate. Run it for a 4K-5K OCI. From what I was told that should clean things up nicely according to a very well known Bitog buddy of mine. It did silence a lifter tick in my brother's iron duke boat engine, it's still silent a few years later.
the ATF thing came about when trans fluid was sperm whale oil, a good ester based fluid. I'm old enough to have seen all the trans failures after it was banned.
Another product is hot shot stiction eliminator.....
It will also clean rings on gas engines as well.
on diesel engines the vacuum pump is usually vented to the crankcase, so if you have a vacuum leak it can pump air into the crankcase, and look like blowby. also the pcv systems on diesels don't have a vacuum to pull the vapors into the intake, so if you open the oil cap on a running engine and smoke/vapors starts to drift out of the hole, that's normal. take a flat lid, like a radiator cap or some kinds of oil cap and set it on the fill hole (make sure it can't fall in) if it dances around and the crankcase pressure pushes it up, you have blowby or a plugged pcv or a vacuum leak (if the engine has a vacuum pump). it should just sit there with no air escaping from underneath it when the engine is running.
