Cheating an oil pan gasket leak (?)

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So the back side of my Sienna's oil pan has a seeping leak. Dealer cost to fix - $420. Independent garage cost - $330.

Is there any way to cheat this or fix it w/o fixing it? Eg, if I drive about 1/2 qt low on oil, will this slow the problem? Any other methods or snake oils?
 
Is the gasket leaking oil or is there a tiny hole in the oil pan itself? I have changed the transmission fluid in my corolla and cleaned the AFT filter, which involved taking off ATF pan. Its pretty simple. I can't imagine an oil pan costing over $330. You could try to fix it yourself.
 
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Try auto-rx, it has helped some. If that doesn't help, you can try a High Mileage oil such as MaxLife Semi-Synthetic or Castrol GTX High Mileage. Another option is to try a thicker oil such as 10w-40.

I'd try Auto-RX first and then move to a high mileage if auto-rx is of no help.
 
The reason for the cost is that they have to remove (or move) the exhaust system. If worse comes to worse, I'll likely try to do it myself, but I've read where this doesn't use a regular gasket, but uses the goop gasket stuff. Perhaps there's an art to applying that stuff.

I wonder if an HM oil would work here - since it's a gasket and not a seal. (?)

I've recently moved to Penz. Plat. 5w20 - it hasn't increased consumption at all. I really want to stick with a thin oil since this vehicle gets almost no operational temp time (though this summer it'll get it in spades - be a good test of the 5w20 in this engine - plan to UOA).
 
Any thought on running 1/2 qt low - would that help? Consumption is presently at about 1/2 qt in 1.2k - so if I can knock that down just a bit more, it would be liveable.
 
I don't understand how ARX would stop a leak on a fixed, RTV type engine oil pan gasket? If you're positive that's where the leak is originating and you wanted to buy some time, maybe clean the area up from the outide and slather some RTV around the mating surfaces. Make sure your PCV system is 100% to keep CC press as low as possible. Even when the oil level is full per the dipstick (or overfull even), your oil level will be below the level of the oil pan gasket. Most of your leaking will take place when the engine is running and oil is flowing down the inside of the block skirt and into the pan, regardless of oil level.

Joel
 
You can try a high mileage oil and Auto Rx. That may work. Easy to do and less expensive.

But it may not. If you have a bad gasket, no chemicals, like HM oils or Rx, will help what is essentially a "mechanical" problem. You'll have to bite the bullet and pay to have the gaskets replaced.
 
I don't know if it will help, but did you check that some of the pan bolts may be a bit loose?

I don't suppose one could clean out the seepage area with CRC Electronic Contact Cleaner, then with a putty knife, stuff some more gasket goop into the crack.

Last ditch effort, but if accessible, may be worth a shot.
 
now you said its seeping.


does that means its actually dripping a good amount or is it not major at all?

if its not a major leak i'd let it go until it needs to be fixed, lets you save up some money to cushion the blow when it absolutletly needs to be repaired.
 
Originally Posted By: JTK
I don't understand how ARX would stop a leak on a fixed, RTV type engine oil pan gasket? If you're positive that's where the leak is originating and you wanted to buy some time, maybe clean the area up from the outide and slather some RTV around the mating surfaces. Make sure your PCV system is 100% to keep CC press as low as possible. Even when the oil level is full per the dipstick (or overfull even), your oil level will be below the level of the oil pan gasket. Most of your leaking will take place when the engine is running and oil is flowing down the inside of the block skirt and into the pan, regardless of oil level.

Joel


Thanks Joel - good info. And I'll get the PCV replaced and may do the RTV.

In answer to another poster - the leak is "seeping" in that it has never dripped in the garage. However, when I ran my finger along the mating surface, the oil on my finger almost looked fresh.
 
Have you checked all the oil pans bolts to make sure they're tight? Seen a couple of oil pans leak because of bolts that loosened up over time. I would check that if possible before changing gasket.
 
Originally Posted By: Bob The Builder
What about welding the pan to the engine block? That would be cheap.
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Originally Posted By: TallPaul
Originally Posted By: Bob The Builder
What about welding the pan to the engine block? That would be cheap.
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Hey now...was only kidding...
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