Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: tswm
Quote:
http://www.rockauto.com/Newsletter/archives/9-19-13.html
Newer engines may need seven quarts, ten quarts or whatever volume is needed to keep the engine, turbocharger and other systems lubricated, pressurized and cool. An oil pump designed to pump seven quarts of relatively light weight synthetic oil is probably not going to be happy trying to move seven quarts of old 30 weight racing oil. Some oil passages or the oil filter might be left dry.
Sounds like the Rockauto Guy has insights into the newest fuel efficient cars. As with the Ford Modular motors, the 10W30 rule of thumb is not applicable to your new Nissan (neither, I'm afraid, the 5W30 grade). Now I anticipate there will yet come additional exceptions to the rule of thumb, in the not too distant future.
I recommend examining the entire context of the above Rockauto article.
Yours is evidently a motor meant to run full synthetic from the start,
so my first recommendation to you is TGMO/Mazda 0W20, my second recommendation is PP/QSUD 0W20, my third recommendation is SynPower 0W20, my fourth recommendation is Honda Syn Blend 0W20.
None of the above four carry Mg detergents, only Ca detergents.
But M1 0W20 AFE does carry Mg detergents.
No extra oil additive, at least while the motor is being broken in.
No PU 5W20. No PP 5W30.
Too risky, given all the various information thus far presented in this thread.
(Maybe PP/QSUD 5W20?)
My opinion only.
So use any syn except PU or pp.
You've gotta be kidding. What exactly makes them so special they aren't fit for use for this engine breaking in.
I'm serious. Please if you could help me understand why these 2 oils aren't suitable.
I meant that PP/QSUD 5W20 are probably OK to run in OP's new car, but that if I were him, I would not take any chance and just exclusively run TGMO 0W20 for a while (when in doubt, run TGMO 0W20; anyway, Caterham recommends it, so what's not to like?). As for PU 5W20, it may be that I'm splitting hairs, but personally speaking only, IMO I perceive PU 5W20 as a thick 5W20. You running PU 5W20 with LM MoS2 year round, that was wise decision IMO because you go WOT often; PU is not likely to break down even under those conditions, but if PU 5W20 does, MoS2 got your back.
The wording on the PP 0W20 bottle implies that it is a lower SAPS oil than the PP 5W20 and 5W30 oils, so that's good on a new motor: run an acceptable oil with lower TBN when the motor is new, go on shorter 5K OCIs to help break it in, drain out the wear metals, and when/if refilling with PP 0W20, there is less of initial wear because PP 0W20 is comparatively speaking a synthetic with lower starting TBN. And of course, any PU (except the high HTHSV PU Euro Car Formulation) is definitely higher SAPS than PP 0W20.
Now that I think about it, OP could run either TGMO or PP 0W20 for a while maybe the first 30K to 40K, then use a small to moderate amount of LM MoS2 (not the whole can for an oil change) for extreme cold weather operation and for WOT driving. An alternative for the sake of WOT high load driving, is to switch to Kendall GT-1 0W20, but if OP does, he must not utilize LM MoS2 even if inclined to do so, because of additive clash between the MoS2 additive and the titanium additive.
The Rockauto Guy says so, therefore let OP utilize the 0W20 grade of his choosing.
Maybe OP could utilize PP 5W30 15 years later as high mileage oil.
