First oil change new (to me) Tundra 5.7

Another vote for 5W30. I always ran 5W30 in my Tundra 5.7 along with a Toyota filter or TRD filter (depending on how much money I wanted to burn 😄). The 5W30 seemed to help quiet down the engine a bit more than the 0W20, although the 5.7 is a pretty noisy engine either way. A great engine, just not the quietest.
 
Changing the oil on a Tundra is a potential mess as the oil blasts basicly sideways out of the oil pan all over the pass tire .I own a 17 been there made that mess once. Plus have to remove the pita splash/tin skid plate to get to the filter ,thats always fun.Definitely NOT my fav vehicle ive owed to change the oil on.
Yep, no fun taking that skid plate off.

I did 10 plus changes, never had a problem with oil draining, *until* I got a house with a garage. My old driveway had a bit of a slant to it, and apparently it was the secret to a good drain I guess. Rear of the truck was 2 or 3 inches higher? something like that. But on my dead flat concrete floor it promptly shot oil out of the pan and all over the tire!

Unfortunately I traded the truck off not much later. :(
 
Yeah, the oil rushes out sideways from nearly two feet up. Huge mess. If the wind is blowing at all, it sprays everywhere. I went with a Fumoto just to have the hose option!

172,000? You drive quite a bit!

I’ve only got about 65,000 on mine.

Yes sir! I live 75 miles from work so did that trip and back 5 days a week since Ive owned the truck. Ive since moved to a 7/7 schedule a couple months ago so it should slow down a good bit.

A side note about the oil drain on these 5.7s, they are the pits for sure which is why I opted for the Fumoto valve. The skid plate is what it is, but not bad once youre used to it.
 
I R/R'd the skid plate on my 4Runner once the first time I changed the oil. It's got to weigh ten pounds. C'mon man it's a two wheel drive grocery getter that will never off road. The second time I changed the oil/filter the skid plate came off and it's in the corner of the garage.
 
Thanks for the advice.

Stay tuned, I bought the motivX canister drain tool seen below. I'm going to wait a few more days to change the oil.

How many of you would stick with 0w-20 and who would go with 5w-30?

Thank you all again.

View attachment 156726

That will certainly make your job easier.

As to your choice of oil weight, as I stated in an earlier reply I have been running 5w30 M1 EP (also a run of Amsoil and PP in 5w30) for 8 years or so in my 2011 5.7L. My owners manual states that 0w20 is the recommended weight and is the best choice for fuel economy and cold weather starting. Then it further states an oil with a higher viscosity may be a better choice, depending on operating conditions. Picture below is from my manual.



IMG_2848.jpeg
 
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Thanks for the advice.

Stay tuned, I bought the motivX canister drain tool. So I'm going to wait a few more days. I decided to try to control the mess as best as possible.
 
I R/R'd the skid plate on my 4Runner once the first time I changed the oil. It's got to weigh ten pounds. C'mon man it's a two wheel drive grocery getter that will never off road. The second time I changed the oil/filter the skid plate came off and it's in the corner of the garage.
I figured it was more for wind drag. Although I high ended on snow once, so it does keeps snow and road wash out of the engine bay.
 
Your joy with the new truck is palpable and nice to share with us, Tks. Either PP or M1 0w-20 will work but my choice would be QS Ultra Protection because it is equal to both at a better price.

i just did an oil change with the new 20k mile quaker state ultimate protection. seems like good stuff. my ranger has never been quieter.
 
Yeah, the oil rushes out sideways from nearly two feet up. Huge mess. If the wind is blowing at all, it sprays everywhere. I went with a Fumoto just to have the hose option!

172,000? You drive quite a bit!

I’ve only got about 65,000 on mine.
I installed Fumoto valve at the 1st change.
 
I'm thinking 5-6k oil change intervals. I enjoy changing oil and I feel like oil doesn't owe me anything at that point so no need to stretch it out.
At those service intervals, there is no need for M1EP -- regular M1 is more than good enough. Otherwise, you could flip a coin between M1 and PP and never know the difference. The most important thing is regular servicing and you definitely have that covered (y)
 
That will certainly make your job easier.

As to your choice of oil weight, as I stated in an earlier reply I have been running 5w30 M1 EP (also a run of Amsoil and PP in 5w30) for 8 years or so in my 2011 5.7L. My owners manual states that 0w20 is the recommended weight and is the best choice for fuel economy and cold weather starting. Then it further states an oil with a higher viscosity may be a better choice, depending on operating conditions. Picture below is from my manual.



View attachment 156775
I just switched from 0w20 to Amsoil 0w30, engine is quieter is the only difference. 66k on my 2019.
 
I bought a 2019 Tundra new. Replaced the drain plug with a Fumoto valve. Also installed the TRD skid plate. It has a removable access door to remove the oil filter. I’m an old guy, and change the Mobil 1 and filter every 5000. I only have 44,000 on this truck. Surely will outlast me.
 
I am thrilled with my new to me 2018 Tundra 5.7. tomorrow I'm planning my first oil change.

Backstory, I still have my 2003 3.4 Tacoma (engine blew at 125k for no apparent reason) rebuilt a junk yard engine and now we are at 305k. I used PYB 5w30 for a long time in that truck and then switched to PP and sometimes high mileage PP always in 5w30.

A while back Walmart never had PP on the shelf and I used M1 high mileage (or some variation of M1) at times. I was very pleased with it. No oil consumption and seemed to be running great.

So anyway here I sit. Time to change the oil in my new to me Tundra. I bought a new motivX filter canister wrench and the motivX fancy funnel and a Toyota cartridge filter. Tomorrow morning I'm buying the oil (or buying online pickup in parking lot) at a big blue box store.

My gut is leaning towards buying M1 extended performance 0w20 which is the recommended weight. I'm sure PP in 0w-20 would be fantastic as well and it's a few dollars cheaper than M1. I need 2 jugs.

Any reason to pick one over the other besides the price? I'm sure either will meet expectations but it's my new truck and I want to go top shelf.

Can't wait to change the oil!

Thank you for reading,
5w30 all day.
 
For your transfer case oil change, which takes about 1.6 quarts, your oil options are insanely priced Toyota 75W at $80/quart, Ravenol 75W at $20/quart, or, my recommendation; HPL 75W at $16/quart.

It’s not listed here, but if you call them, they’ve got it.


Don’t forget the BITOG15 discount code for 15% off.

The transfer case drain plug is a pain, you’ll have to remove a small protective plate. It’s a square drive NPT, so it seals on the threads. I used a couple wraps of blue Teflon tape. I’ve got pipe plug sockets, but I think you can use a 3/8” extension.

The transmission can be flushed using the cooler line. Pin the thermostat open, disconnect the return line from the cooler, idle, refill, repeat until clear. You’ll need a way to refill from the side of the transmission. Total PITA.

I have a pressurized bottle, like this, that I fill with WS ATF (I used AMSOIL, next fill will be HPL green).


Probably worth doing a pan drop and filter change, too.

Differentials are easy. 75W90. About 7 quarts needed for front and rear.
Trans case can run 75w85. Straight from a Toyota Engineer. It's in my 22 and zero issues.
 
Well, I finally got it done. It was not without drama. Thankfully all is well.

The short version: skid plate was missing bolts, the canister drain bolt was way too tight and the entire canister tried to unscrew when I tried to remove the canister drain bolt. I had to figure out a way to hold it while removing the drain access bolt. Which I did.

I had to scrounge around and find a couple 8x1.25 bolts that would work for the skid plate. I ran a tap in the frame holes as well. It all went back together perfect.

The motivx canister socket tool was 10/10. The motivx funnel was 10/10. The motivx drain tube tool worked well but I can't rate it yet.

The big box store didn't have mobile one 0w20 so I used PP 0w20. Lady stocking the shelves said to order it for buy online pickup in store and they would fill my order as fast as possible which was better than making multiple futile trips looking for it. So PP for now. Just under 8 quarts, used Toyota filter and drain plug washer.

Overall I'm happy with the motivx tools and the skid plate is fine. I just hope the oil change people at least used new oil (jk).
 
I am on my 3rd Tundra I had on 05, a 2010 I put 191,000. Now I have a 2020 I have used Quaker state 0w20 for as long as I can remember. I change oil every 5000 miles
 
Well, I finally got it done. It was not without drama. Thankfully all is well.

The short version: skid plate was missing bolts, the canister drain bolt was way too tight and the entire canister tried to unscrew when I tried to remove the canister drain bolt. I had to figure out a way to hold it while removing the drain access bolt. Which I did.

I had to scrounge around and find a couple 8x1.25 bolts that would work for the skid plate. I ran a tap in the frame holes as well. It all went back together perfect.

The motivx canister socket tool was 10/10. The motivx funnel was 10/10. The motivx drain tube tool worked well but I can't rate it yet.

The big box store didn't have mobile one 0w20 so I used PP 0w20. Lady stocking the shelves said to order it for buy online pickup in store and they would fill my order as fast as possible which was better than making multiple futile trips looking for it. So PP for now. Just under 8 quarts, used Toyota filter and drain plug washer.

Overall I'm happy with the motivx tools and the skid plate is fine. I just hope the oil change people at least used new oil (jk).

The MotivX tools are top notch. I bought the kit to use with the Highlander and filter canister wrench, funnel that screws onto the oil fill port and the drain tube for the filter canister are excellent pieces of kit.
 
On my 2017 Tundra I run 5/30 synthetic and the factory filter. Cut a 6 inch round hole it the stock skid plate for access to the filter housing. Easy peasy.

Paco
 
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